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Posts posted by junkie_dolphin

  1. 25 minutes ago, jeddyhsu said:

    I'd imagine the infinium hood will do it's job and properly keep your head dry but... the rest of the 36 is still cotton [water-resistant] so, hello wet shoulders and back.

    Stotz is extra long staple cotton—ie. Ventile, Supermarine, etc. Technically not 100% waterproof, but way more water-resistant than regular old cotton.

  2. 1 hour ago, JoseRizal said:

    So upon further research, I read on RFD that Switzerland is not part of CETA as they aren’t part of EU.

     I’m not really sure 

    Why does that matter?

  3. In case there was any doubt, J36 looks like it was made in the EU. As a Canadian, I was charged HST plus a small import fee (like 10 bucks)—just as was expected from comments above. Thanks guys!

  4. 1 minute ago, piece keeper said:

    Spec-sheet was a typo; the original online copy stated the correct 6 pockets (1 flak, 1 mezz, 2 gravity, 2 normal).

    And the mezzanine was behind the flak?

  5. Digging through the archives, and wondering if anyone can clear something up for me.

    Old copy for the J36-GT lists the number of pockets as 9, including a mezzanine and internal pocket. The current version has only 5. Was the original copy wrong? Where were the other pockets? I mean, even if we allow for an internal pocket of some kind, and guess that the mezzanine pocket was behind the map pocket, there's still 2 pockets unaccounted for...

    Also interesting that there was a version of the J36-GT that had only one gravity pocket...

  6. Just received my shipping notice for the J36-S; got it in black, and I’m excited.

    It might be time for someone to repost the classic US import post that gets trotted out every season...

    But I’m wondering what the experience has been for people in Canada when it comes to recent imports. What’s am I going to end up paying?

  7. I'm looking to offload a pile of Veilance pieces, all brand new with tags:

    - Field LT, Black, Medium

    - Mionn IS, Black, Medium (Made in Canada version from a few seasons ago)

    - Field Pants, Black, 30

    - Field Overshirt, Black, Medium

    Probably more on the way as well. PM if you're interested—I'd rather sell here than on Grailed.

  8. 2 minutes ago, drgitlin said:

    America's known for inaccessible health care, human rights violations, and extremely poor working conditions. 

    Haha, you went there! I wasn't going to...

  9. 1 hour ago, capnpyro said:

    China's known for cheap labor, human rights violations, and extremely poor working conditions.

    Saying a person or country is "known for" something is really, dangerously vague. It's the sort of language people use when they're trying to make strong accusations without wanting to go into detail. "______ is known for making rude comments at parties!" Which parties? Which comments? When? What are your sources? Or are you only repeated what others have told you?

    The insidious thing is that, by saying "known for," you always have the option of retreating into "I was only saying that people talk that way! I'm not saying I think that way!"

    The reality is that China is no longer the site of cheap labour that it once was. I've said this before—companies like Arc'teryx are moving much of their manufacturing out of China and into places that are less expensive. Fast fashion brands are way further along that process. No one does manufacturing better than China at this point, and I don't blame Errolson for moving some things there.

    One could, in theory, allow Errolson's "virtue signalling" to inform one's interpretation of the move to china, rather than to contradict it. In other words, we could take Errolson's tweets about fashion ethics at face value and trust that he's applying those same ethical standards in China.

  10. 3 hours ago, Inkinsurgent said:

    holy shit i hadn't looked at the man's twitter in ages. the climate panic and virtue signalling is off the goddamn charts.

    I believe climate change is a serious problem, and I'm happy it's more prominent now as a point of political discussion. That said, he's often retweeting really misleading stuff—headlines that speak of "tipping points" (a term regular people are likely to read as "point of no return"), "apocalypse," "the end of ____ as we know it..." The climate scientists I've read/listened to are very often critical of this sort of scare-mongering, because it tends to make people feel that there's no hope and nothing to be done.

    I think something about current Twitter amplifies latent dramatic emotional elements in people. Have a look at William Gibson's twitter page for example; I've had to mute the poor guy's retweets. Last I checked he's perpetually retweeting anti-Trump spam—the guy uses the "retweet" function the way most people use the "like" function.

  11. 55 minutes ago, CARLOOA said:

    while having clothing made of materials with high pollution risk

    This is the big one honestly. I'm willing to "fill in the blanks" and assume Errolson has found a good factory, that pays its employees well and so on (certainly other companies claim to have done that). But harping on about the wastefulness of fashion, and posting these (sometimes incredibly scary and sensationalist) articles about climate change and the dying off of insects and the pollution of the oceans... all while selling garments made of precariously laminated plastics... that I find a little hard to swallow.

  12. China is no longer particularly cheap for manufacturing, especially compared to poorer countries like the Philippines. The bigger issue is finding people who can actually do what you need them to do (at least here in Canada).

    Given last year’s prices, it doesn’t surprise me that they’d go looking for another place to manufacture—and the J1A specifically presents the best oportunity, because it’s a relatively static product—we know it’s coming back, like the 3a-1, and unlike some of the more experimental pieces.

    4 hours ago, gosgjkaj said:

    E says they are working on a "cheap" product line hopefully will come out soon and you should expect all of them made in China.

    Was this buried in the insta replies or something? Haven’t heard anything myself.

  13. 9 hours ago, Inkinsurgent said:

    As someone who makes a living doing rebrands i can tell you that a rebrand is never 'just a rebrand'. As CB pointed out, a rebrand is the function of a strategic repositioning. So, yes, people will conclude things from rebrands because visual identities have the express purpose of making consumers conclude things about brands.

    We may disagree as to the degree to which this specific rebrand "speaks of" vs. "leads" a change in Veilance as a set of products—but otherwise, I think we're basically saying the same thing. Arc is, ostensibly, a "design-lead" company; product comes first (as opposed to a lifestyle brand). Obviously this is simplifying it somewhat, but when I say "it's just a rebrand, and at most a symptom of something deeper that's going on" the emphasis here is on "symptom."

    Quality of the rebrand aside (and for the record, I'm not crazy about it—but I was never crazy about their website), that it somehow reflects current trends in anything is hardly a hanging offence. See my previous post. It is an all-caps, bolded, sans serif typeface. My god guys.

  14. 1. It's interesting to me that it's taken a "rebrand" (and a very mild one at that) to make apparent to people that Veilance has been cutting back on the weirdness and getting more into simple, clean, blank forms. Compare the current version of the Node Down to the Anneal: the Node is loaded up with pockets, it's highly structured, and it's surprisingly full of detail; the Anneal, by comparison, is a very simple, soft, unstructured jacket with a blank face. I could point to other examples, like the old vs. new Graph Cardigan... there's a trend towards blankness and simplicity—true "minimalism" rather than geometry. I've seen what's coming, and it's largely more of that (eg. the Euler IS Jacket and Coat).

    2. I'm not sure in what sense Veilance could be considered a trailblazer currently... but it's a bit hard to say when the last time was that you could have described the brand that way. Maybe very early on... But from a technical perspective, Arc reserves its most "cutting edge" stuff for mainline (especially, for some reason, Ascent and Whiteline); much of Veilance still uses old three-layer Gore-Tex ("trico" backer) for its shells—one does wonder why an additional thousand dollars doesn't buy you a Gore Pro shell. The really extreme weirdness probably peaked under Conroy—remember the Scend Jacket? Some of those experiments were terrible flops, however much one might admire the willingness to go there.

    3. However tempting it may be to read into a sans serif typeface, it's ultimately just a rebrand, and at most a symptom of something deeper that's going on. It's hardly an indication that Veilance is more fashion-pwned than before—how do you even conclude that, from a logo change? Furthermore, I can point to plenty of times when Veilance drew from contemporary fashion trends—the rapid adoption and abandonment of various shawl collars when those were at their peak half a decade ago comes to mind.

    4. Finally, I thought one of the major selling points for Veilance was the lack of branding. I really don't care what the brand's logo is (and, by the way, this season's products still use the old logo, typeface, etc.). I appreciate that most people won't know what I'm wearing. If it were up to me, the website would look like the Ulm School magazine.

  15. 15 hours ago, damagedroid said:

    Can't agree more with you. I was SHOCKED to see the logo font change. The original is kind of elegant and poetic which translates the design philosophy and the language well (quiet, confident and sturdy). The new one looks just lacks character and feels a bit "wannabe".. I simply couldn't associate the new logo design with the design aesthetics of Veilance garments.. Huge disappointment about this identity change..

    It's hilarious to me that people are freaking out over a website logo change. The old logo (which included "Arc'teryx") does look old, bordering on "dad" aesthetics. They need to further differentiate from mainline, especially 24. Yes, of course I miss the days of Conroy et al and "experimental" Veilance, but in case you haven't seen FW19, let me tell you: those days are over.

    15 hours ago, damagedroid said:

    It might sound a bit annoying but I actually also just got rid of my Monitor.. I owned it for about one month only, love the design and patterning, and the face fabric (rip-stop grid?) is tough enough and stronger than the standard LT ones, but also quite packable. I also think the internal structure of Monitor is one of the most impressive pieces Veilance has ever done.

    HOWEVER, I simply couldn't fit my head under the storm hood without looking weird (the hood just does't sit nicely, it always leaves awkward empty spaces hanging around my ears, even tighten it up with the drawcords doesn't help much. So after Field and Monitor, I decide to give Patrol a try..

    Oh my god dude, either buy it or don't. This is some Princess and the Pea shit. The idea that you're going to try to sell the liner of the Patrol is hilarious, especially considering there is a jacket coming this fall that is basically a standalone Patrol liner (the Conduit AR).

  16. Managed to pick up SS19's new Rhomb jacket. It's a shakedry running shell, similar to the Norvan SL from Arc'teryx's mainline. Here are some thoughts:

    - Whoa, this thing is light. Handling the Norvan SL should have prepared me for how light it is, but somehow this is more mindblowing, probably because this thing has actual pockets—it definitely feels more like a "proper" jacket.

    - Reflective panels at the peak of the hood, the triangle at the yoke, and the hem; surprisingly neutral when no direct light is shining on them, but any sort of bright light (camera flash, headlights) makes the paneling very noticeable. You can tell they really put some time into finding the best balance for a Veilance piece specifically.

    - There's a really neat hidden pocket in the right hand pocket—it's closed with one of those ultra-thin snaps used on the Incendo hoody. Large enough for even a larger smartphone (though it tends to weigh the whole jacket down in that one spot).

    - Comes with a washbag to protect the jacket during laundering. The washbag feels heavier than the jacket.

    - Insanely packable. It takes up about half the space in the larger external pocket of my 3A-1.

    - Not bad for layering, actually. I was able to fit a Conduit LT underneath (Node FL anyone?)—the only issue is that the front of the Rhomb is a little shorter than most of the Veilance midlayers. As such, I'll likely end up wearing it as an emergency shell/windbreaker in the summer, and not at all in the fall or winter.

    - Already has one scuff—I think it may have arrived that way. A very small skid of white showing through near the zipper. I'm going to beat the crap out of this thing, and see how much it can handle. Should be fun.

  17. 12 minutes ago, Inkinsurgent said:

     As an art director i feel comfortable saying the rationale behind the icon was probably "futuristic looking shape"


    You have to remember, that logo goes waaaay back—like, early 2000s, at the latest. Could be older. Back in those days, non-sensical futuristic computer-generated graphics were very common.

    This sort of thing:


  18. WTS:

    Field LT Jacket, Black, Medium - 700

    Field OS, Black, Medium - 350

    Indisce 3/4 Coat, Black, Medium - 550 USD

    Sinter IS Jacket, Black, Medium - 900 USD

    Field Pant, Black, 30 - 400 USD

    Each has been worn or tried on once or twice, but is essentially brand new with tags and garment bag (if applicable).

    Prices are negotiable—feel free to shoot me a message.

  19. 8 hours ago, danii said:

    I do but leaks are not physical samples of the final product. (while movie trailers are exactly the same thing as final movie just smaller)

    You're kidding, right? A movie trailer very often features clips, sounds, and cuts that don't appear in the final film. The trailer is an advert for the movie—it's incredibly simplistic to say it's simply the movie but smaller.

    But, maybe more importantly—why are you in the Acronym thread complaining that people want to know what the new Acronym products are?

    8 hours ago, danii said:

    Those fuckers who leaked have killed subnet for us, pardon me that I do not want to support this behavior.

    We don't know why Errolson decided to clamp down on subnet membership, but if I had to bet I'd say it had more to do with guys like 1K drawing "inspiration" from unreleased stuff for his own products.

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