Foxy2

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7048/sugarcane-fibres

"In the apparel industry, bagasse is utilised for production of textile rayon fibers such as viscose, modal and lyocell. The bagasse is shredded, broken down with eco-friendly chemicals or other chemicals, and then when it is still in a liquid form, it is shot at very high pressure through tiny holes. This long strand of fibre is then solidified and spun into yarn. Rayon fibres are thus produced. Since rayon is manufactured from organically occurring polymers, it is considered as a semi-synthetic fibre. Sugarcane rayon is glossier and more silk-like than wood pulp rayon. Sugarcane rayon, in particular, has a delightful lustre, however, this could also merely be a manufacturing difference, and not a material difference."

"Earlier, the Japanese dominated or rather had a sole authority over producing sugarcane fibre for apparel purpose. In Japan, several companies used blend of sugarcane and selvage denim to reproduce some of the finest quality jeans. The cane used in the process is sweet sorghum, commonly known as sweet millet. It's a very common grass, which is produced all over the world. It is mainly used for making a molasses-like syrup and animal feed. The Japanese companies mixed sugarcane fibre with sweet sorghum, which in turn gave the fabric a sweet smell. Since then, sugarcane fabric has been successful in inviting world-wide attention. "

Besides, wasn’t it Japan’s cyber security minister that admitted to never having used a computer in his life...

The AW18 catalogue shows a picture of the bagasse fiber mix and the text suggests that it is used to spin the yarns.

my sugar cane denim used to be quite scratchy/itchy in the beginning due to specific staple fibers in the yarns that were harder than your average cotton staple fibers. You could actually look for those and pull them out with pliers.

as @Pedro said - using bagasse is a standard process and achieving a 50/50 mix using only sugar molecules seems highly unlikely...

Toyo's statements in the past were that Okinawa and Hawaii models and their respective denims are made from sugar cane fibers and indigo from these regions.
(I've seen retailers and online sources claim that the cotton was also from said regions, but I couldn't verify that claim to originate from a Toyo source.)

what happened in 2016 was that the last of the Big 5 ceased commercial sugar cane planting & harvesting - if and how much of that production ended up (as a by-product) at Toyo's we don't know...

Toyo's AW2018 catalogues still claim that their Hawaii model denim uses bagasse originating from Hawaii.

given traditional apparel supply chain planning timelines and typical raw material buying behavior I would think that a 2016 Hawaiian sugar cane harvest stock could have been use up within 2 seasons - max. 3. Toyo probably only runs 1 production lot of jeans & jackets per year.
AW2018 garment retail lots were probably planned and scheduled for in 2017 already.

it's also possible that Toyo's Hawaiian bagasse never came from big commercial plantations (i.e. Hawaiian Corporate and Sugar Company - HC&S owned by Alexander & Baldwin) in the fist place, but from smaller, alternative and still existing growers...

On 6/12/2019 at 8:04 PM, Spiraltoy said:

Anyone with experience of the DC4 hemming service? Going to Berlin in a couple of weeks and thinking of bringing a pair that needs shortening. If there’re any better places in Berlin, please tell me!

On 6/12/2019 at 9:38 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I was always pleased with the hemming from DC4. I don't think there is a better option in Berlin

agree - apparently, B&S (Burg & Schild) is gearing up for a Union Special at one point in the near future, too...

that's most definitely Washington Square Park for most of the pictures - that's the students building at the school of education in the background (now NYU Steinhardt School).

also, the neighborhood shots fit better...

Great info and pics - hope we get to see the next stages documented as well...

any more details on the yarns (spinning & dye)?

will probably pass on this one, but it certainly looks interesting...

a bengal or bengal mix - we'll never know as she's a rescue.

curious about the outcome - also on the fence about ordering one...

4 hours ago, aho said:

Damn...I'm out for the foreseeable future. I've gained too much weight, and even accounting for that and sizing up on these, they're still unfortunately too tight now. Will try to get some decent progress pics up.

Currently denimless :O

You could cut the waistband under the cinch and use the cinch to still hold it together - just saying...

no excuses!

25 minutes ago, chambo2008 said:

That cat 

She is just a tiny rescue cat with a lot of attitude (and very sharp claws).

Bonus pic with the beast:

After the wash...

Brings back sweet memories...

we had a shop in Berlin called “Buttenheim” that sold the line back in the day and I got a pair or two.

3 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

...

trying to encourage Foxy to get his cutlery to the level of his craft gin... [I remember he had talked about learning to sharpen... it changes cooking experience significantly]

Joking aside, good knifes are still on my mind - probably something from the likes of Blenheim Forge or Hohenmoorer Messermanufaktur...

Here are my sharpest kitchen tools...

10 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Beautiful Foxy and how civilised too with a G&T (with blood orange or pink grapefruit to complement the tonic?).

It’s recommended to pair that Harris gin with pink grapefruit - additionally, we tried pink grapefruit tonic water, but that was probably too much of a good thing. Anyhow, a nice day and a nice drink.

Inner Hebrides, Small Isles.

Given the setting - absolutely no drugs needed.

the locals turn to alcohol, though....

17oz for most, if not all (5+1 in 2010)...

http://www.samurai-j.com/lineup/jeans/s5000gx-t/enter.html

17 hours ago, Critical Observer said:

This piques my interest... while wondering about the relevance of having ”regular indigo warp with natural indigo dyed weft”.

 

...GX-T was part of the Elements-Series.

probably the same denim and dying technique.

10 hours ago, 501XX4EVER said:

What the hell is wrong with that cat??? Drugs??? I'm guessing drugs.

That’s the cat of one of the neighbours - one tough kitten, outdoors the entire time no matter the Scottish weather!

at that stage no drugs needed.

I wonder which models actually still have leather patches - most of LVC and...