Foxy2

Yesterday...

2nd on Rakuten.JP

10 hours ago, 501XX4EVER said:

Yes, but since then you've seen the Light and you're cured now.

Strangely enough I don't feel guilty - in fact, I wish I still had them to pull them out every once in a while and, maybe, put them on for a day once in a blue moon.
the Billy-Bob model wasn't too outrageous and made a nice point in regards to anti-fit.

also loved the engineered/twisted range on a conceptual level - there were at least 1 or 2 models that I should've bought...

smart move to check here.

those are SC40501A mixed indigo - you are probably looking for SC40500N with 100% natural indigo...

SC40501A should have at least 10% natural indigo, if not more - the rest is synthetic indigo - the seller forgot to specify that.

wow!

I had the Billy-Bob model then - long gone, though...

ok - but how can you see that the coin pocket is chain stitched? just a wild guess?

the right side for chain and lock stitch are identical...

the V-stitch?

3 hours ago, Rob060 said:

They say they source all fabric domestically and from White Oak. They allude to different fits and also rigid and stretch denim choices, but just have the one model atm I guess. Wouldn't expect hidden rivets at that price point, but would be nice.

ideally, that should equate to "produced domestically" - unfortunately, that's not always the case. maybe the rules will allow for a certain percentage to be produced in Mexico with yarns coming from the US or the finishing taking place in the US and you can still call the fabric US made...
furthermore, most of the info seems to originate from 2015 - maybe parts need updating?

2 hours ago, Pedro said:

Patagonia has also introduced Dyneema blend in their workwear denim.

https://www.patagonia.com/product/mens-steel-forge-denim-work-pants-regular/56120.html?dwvar_56120_color=DDNM&cgid=mens-pants-jeans-workwear#start=1

 

Dyneema is nothing bad per se - but most likely nothing that's been woven on a narrow draper loom with proper selvedge...

those do have some interesting features and tweaks...

most certainly no selvage denim (Dyneema fibres), which would explain the Cone source - non-US Cone, probably China or Mexico. they mention that the jeans are made in/near SF, but don't include the fabric in that statement.
also, no hidden rivets for that special douple layered back pocket and a tapered cut.

nice - custom hardware and custom tooling for said hardware is indispensable if you want to do it right (i.e. authentic looking) and important for brand building.
it is also quite expensive.

it often forces the brands to amortize costs through big volumes - meaning they will use the new hardware for quite some time while the denim, the patches, the cuts, the styling and even the manufacturer will change.

yes, would be interesting to confirm.

the old patches often had spelling mistakes - the more recent patches mostly corrected that - but with the special releases I would think that the embossing on the rivets and the backing of rivets and buttons might be more telling as it seem that WH had been using their custom hardware,

@501XX4EVER - Don’t forget to post pics of the hardware & the bottoms to see if we can verify the production period...

Had to dress up - the wife said so...

happy Easter!

that's without additional pairs in different sizes but including some of my jackets...

here's my annual update - tried to clean up the list, but I guess I have to make a proper attempt at documenting everything later this year...

Boncoura
XX W32
Cinch W32

Bowery Blue Makers
Type-LB Authentic Pleated Blouse S40
Type S Authentic Straight Fit W32.
Type SO Authentic High Rise Straight Fit W32

Bru Na Boinne
BNB13N W32

Conners Sewing Factory
1942-45 S409XXX M-WW2 San Francisco W36
1946 S409XXX M-46 2nd Half W34
1947 S409XXX M-47 W36

Dawson Denim
DD01 W33 (pre-arcs)
DD11 W33 – Dawson & Dry British Ltd Edition

Denime
#71-94-0077 W33 – Lee 101 type
#178-56513 S44 – Lee type jacket

Dry Bones
CDP-555 W32 – Guitar Wolf

Eight-G
804-XX W32

Eternal - エターナル
872 W32
877 W30
54727 W32 – Persimmon

Evisu
2000 No.1 Gatagata W35

FullCount
1100-10 W32 – WWII, 08 cut, 16.5oz Australian cotton
1101NA W31
1105NA W32
1108EX W32
1108XX W32
1108PH W32 – Signet edition, wild cotton mix
1108R W33 – Rough
#1331 W32 – Persimmon, xx01 or xx05 cut
#1768 W33 – Sweatshirt pants
#1823 W34 – Corduroy pants, 08 cut
1921 W32
1922 W31
#2858 S38 – Persimmon

Iron Heart
IH-634S W33
IH-634-LB W33 – Duck
IH-803 W32
IH-527J size L

Iron Heart/Take5
IHT510 W32 – Basically a IH-634S

Kapital
Century Denim Cisco 5P W32 – Persimmon
TH Zipang W32

Kicking Mule Workshop
1950 AWA W32
1950 AI W31
Hickory Stripe W32

Oni - 鬼デニム
ONI-0211 W32
ONI Awa Shoai W31 – BiG 1st model

Ooe Yofukuten
41B-0418 W33 – 1890’s Hercules
OA01XX-0614 W34
OA02XX-0714 W34
SOA03XX-0814 W34

Ooe Yofukuten/Standard & Strange
SS-1702XX W34

Pure Blue Japan (PBJ) - ピュアブルージャパン
AI-002 W32
XX-007 W34 – Deep indigo
XX-010 W32 – Purple face
#6066 Type 2 S4 – Deep indigo
#6077 Type 2 S3
#6081 Type 2 S4

Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)/Lightning Magazine
PBJ*Lightning W33 – Sample, maybe XX-005 or slimmer...

Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)/Take5
TPJ-510 W32 – Basically a XX-005

Real McCoy/Joe McCoy
Lot.001 W30
Lot.001XX W31
Lot.003 W31
S613 W32
901 W31

Roy Slapper
RS00 W32
R01 W32 – Test Lot

Toys McCoy/Take
Lot.135D W33 – TMP1209T5

Red Cloud
R424XX W32 – 1st Edition
R424XX W31 – 2nd Edition
R424BE W32 – 3rd/Tupan Edition
S400 W31
5500-A W32 – Worker Pants

R by 45RPM
Nando x Nando W32

Rising Sun Jeans
Blacksmith W32
Blacksmith W32 – denimBro/MoneyBag/modern version

R.J.B. (Real Japan Blues)
D105LTD-09SS/FW W32
D105S-10FW W31
D105-11LTD W31
D105-12SS W33
D105-13SS W31
D105-14SS W32
D105-14FW W33
D105-15SS W33
D001 W33
D001 LTD W32 – from 2012...
DD001 DHM W31
D002 W33

Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ
GA510 S02 (115) – Lot.04, no selvage
MS0500XX W32 – Sumo series
S001JP W32
S001JP-F W32 – Wool
S001JP-H W32 – Bamboo
S0110XJ W32 – Lot 8
S0111XJ S44
S0120XJ W33
S0130XJ W32
S0210XJ W32
S0222XJ S42
S0500XX-15TH W32
S0510AI-OGSP W32
S0510CO W32 – Corduroy Pants
S0510XX-10SP W33
S0553XX S42
S0555VX-15TH S42
S101JP S42
S111XJ S44
S500OG16oz W32
S5000-KA W33 – Persimmon
S5000AI-10SP W34
S5000AI-OGSP W32
S5000BKB W32
S5000GX-S W32
S5000GX-T W32
S5000VX W32
S5000VX-15TH W32
S526VX-L-15th W32
S551GX-K S40
S553GX-S S42
S553OG16oz S42
S554GX-T S40
S555GX-M S40
S711VX W32
SJ42CP W34 – Chinos

Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ)/Denimio
S510XX19oz DMO W32 – Denimio Contest
S710XX-15ozDM W33 – Moscow Edition

Samurai Jeans - サムライジーンズ)/Take5
Samurai Jeans * Take5 S40 – Type 2 jacket

SJC Denim
Yard Boss W32

Stevenson Overall
737 W31
747 W31
767 W30

Story
River Denim Jeans W32
NI x NI Jeans W32

Strike Gold
5103 W32
5105 W33

Studio D'Artisan (SDA) - ステュディオ ダ ルチザン
DRT-010 W33– SDA Osaka Store 10th anniversary
SD-103XX W32
SD-D01-30 W32 – 30th anniversary
SD-D01J-30 S40 – 30th anniversary
SD-D01-35 W32 – 35th anniversary
SD-D1538XX-B W33
SD-D1589 W36 – Corduroy
SD-D1596 W31
SD-D1673 W33
SD-D1677 W34
SD-D4187 S42
SD-D4254S S40 – Lee type jacket
SD-G-001 W33
SD-SP-06 W32
SD-SP-028 W32 – Heritage, 40th anniversary
SD-SP-032 S40 – Heritage, 40th anniversary
SD-X's-31 W32 – Black Pig
SD-X's-36 W33 – Black & Blue
SD-X's-37T W33 – Dirt Blue

Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Double Volante
沖-515/OKI-515 W33 – Champloo/Double Volante
沖-515045/OKI-515045 W34 – Champloo/Double Volante
沖-815/OKI-815 W34 – Champloo/Double Volante

Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Double Volante/PantsShopAvenue
AVENUE-005XX W33

Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Take5
TAKE5-010 W33

SugarCane (SC) - シュガーケーン
SC40100 W32
SC40105A W31
SC40200E W34
SC40285 W32
SC40285 W33 – Persimmon
SC40300 W31
SC40302A-xxx – various dyes…
SC40382A W33 – Persimmon, boot-cut
SC40400 W32
SC40500 W31
SC40510 W32 – Begin, hard wash
SC40701 W32
SC40801 W32

SugarCane & Mr.Freedom - ミスターフリーダム
SC41215 Lot.64 W32
SC41293 Lot.64 US W32 – Uncle Sam/California Surplus Edition
SC41336 Lot 64 OK W32 – Okinawa Edition
SC41565 Lot.64 E W33 – Presidential Election Edition
SC41678 Lot.64 BB W33 – BB (buckle back) Okinawa Edition
SC41729 Lot.64 ORG W34 – Organic Cotton
SC13434 Lot.74 Cowboy Jacket S40 – NOS Cone

TCB – Two Cats Brand/Taking Care of Business
20's cut W33 – SuFu Competition
30’s jacket S42
50's cut W32 – SuFu Competition
60's cut W32

Tender Co.
Type 132 W32

The Flat Head (TFH) - フラットヘッド
TFH 3005-A W32
TFH 3005 W32
TFH 6002W S40
TFH 6003W S44

The Flat Head (TFH)/R.J.B./Take5
TR-010 W31 – Basically, a TFH 3009 in RJB denim

Warehouse/Heller's Cafe/Lee Archive
HC-035 W31
Lee x Warehouse 101 W32 – Cowboy "Triple Name"
Lee x Warehouse 101B W28 – 1930 Cowboy
Lot 800 C/L W32
Lot 1001 W31 – 20th anniversary
Lot 1001 C/L W32
Lot 1001XX W31 – 1997 WH Flagship Store Edition
Lot 1001XX W33 – Izumi Edition
Lot 2001 C/L S38
DD10 W32
Lot DD-1003XX W33 – 1945
Lot DD-1003SXX W34 – 1943
Lot DD-1004XX W32 – 1922
Lot DD-1004 W34 – 1937

28 minutes ago, SLAB said:

are you sure about that? A free trade agreement should mean there are no more additional tariffs charged; of course VAT and handling fees still apply. It is not a customs union

 

right, a FTA is not a joint economic zone or a customs union (like the EU) - importantly, the details of each FTA differ and in this case it means that the tariffs are lowered in steps before they eventually get removed.

if your biggest add-on costs are VAT and handling fees the reduction (and eventual removal) of import tax tariffs will not mean much.

3 hours ago, Jambon said:

...

I thought now with the EU/Japan free trade agreement we would be able to order it directly from Japan ourselves and cut out the expensive middle man. 

not really - import duties will still apply, no matter what & above EUR150 value you might face full or partial tax tariffs. also, handling costs might apply.

quick internet search:

@Pedro

yeah - read about this, too. I think the rise of the dryer in the US actually does predates this more recent phenomenon, though.

about a year or two ago there was a thread on reddit on dryers which exploded a bit.
just another one of these things that only make sense in the US - like helicopter parenting and car parades when dropping of kids at the school.
seems like they love wasting energy and are into conspiracy theories and fake science about laundry getting soiled and contaminated when line drying - at least partially.

there was also another nice article somewhere on the web by an American living in the UK about his perception that dryers in the UK are actually not working properly and, therefore, are present but not used.

or use something called "inch master" - easier to use, flexible in the amount of stretch/shrinkage you want and does not put stress on on the button holes...

Definitely a screen print of average/poor quality.

the ink is not broken or cracked which I would expect from a printed tee that age.

must have done an amazing job to preserve the print that well and keep the white fabric from (phenolic) “yellowing”.

does it seem to be printed with multiple frames (for each colour) and does it have gaps with the fabric showing - or  - is it single solid patch like a even film/layer?

well, is the print a screen print or is it a heat transfer?

which lot no. did you get?

for sure those will feature painfully low front and back rises - they are supposed to sit on below the waist on the hip - checking if the cut works for you and if you need to size up is recommended.
additionally, the thighs might be slimmer than usual in order to exaggerate the flared character of the leg opening...

I would also look at the fabric colours and the print itself - if it is from 1981 it would use PVC-based ink for regular screen prints and it should have been washed a fair number of times.

you pic shows the black fabric to be never/hardly washed, the print to be fairly new and the white fabric to be brilliant white - for a +35 years old tee I would expect the print pink to be broken and brittle and the white fabric "yellowing" (if never used/washed) - if used/washed I would expect the black fabric to be washed-out a shade or two and the print to show some age...