roy6

Is there anyone Television or Movies with Levi's Vintage Clothing (like, recent since '96) in it?

Hugh Jackman and Vin Deisel in the 2000 LVC '60s moto jacket. Jackman still (check out the t-shirt) is from Swordfish, the Diesel is from Entertainment Weekly, maybe a publicity still from XXX- don't know if the jacket appears in that movie.

fuck all of you for being able to buy new shit/

Poor guy! You should have stocked up on jeans when you were flush. Now you're stuck with that one crappy pair of 501 STF which seems to be all you own. At least, all I've ever seen you wear in your fit pics.

Farmer- the video is great. When the vacuum started, my cats freaked out, ran around, and then hid under the couch. Bookmarked for future fun.

Whaaaaat? Me?

Said with love, of course.

You two and Dr. Heech and airfrog, are like the little know-it-alls in the classroom who always blurt out the answer before giving anybody else a chance. Brown nosers.

Coming from someone who darts around Sufu like a fruit fly, posting in every thread known to man.

roy6, i too would be poking roy in the leg with a 'tripod' if i was watching him work with all that denim... BOING!

Ha! It's true- I did have a denim hard-on the whole time. I was very careful not to poke anyone with that.

Rising sun vest- also amazing. The sort of vaginal-shaped placket is interesting- I've seen that on actual vintage hunting jackets & vest. I wonder what the purpose was,,,

Riff- wish I could rep you again for this excellent thread.

The other day I noticed the leg seam looked a little weird. If you follow the seam up from the bottom you can see where it looks "pinched in" for lack of a better word:

at first I thought they had run out of thread while sewing the outside leg seam and did a shitty job of starting a new thread - but upon further examination the same thing happens on this and other versions of patched and distressed LVC models. I am assuming when they originally put together this model they leave open access to the leg areas they plan to do further work around. Wasn't sure how I felt about it originally I thought I'd share some photos....

I think it's on purpose too, but for aesthetic reasons. I have a pair of 1901 denim devotees, and they have the same thing running the whole length of each leg. There are two threads which run along the seam and sometimes overlap and sometimes pull away from each other. The outer thread seems a little looser, so where it isn't close to the inner thread the seam pulls apart slightly so that you can see the darker color of the denim inside the seam. It's a really nice effect on the devotee, which has a really strong gray cast to the outer surface of the denim and a bright blue color on the less distressed portions inside:

Maybe its a way of duplicating the look of vintage jeans with slightly loose seams- while keeping the jeans structurally sound?

PaulT beat me to the post line! Anyways...

]I recently picked up these LVC samples at an outlet for 37euros, but I dont know anything about them. From quickly typing the product code on the blue sample tag into google i found this page but i was wondering if anyone knows anything more about them? Is that a leather bag they came with? I removed the pocket cover but it can be easily stiched back on.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/ticobene/lemp6s_1930_501/

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Looks like a '33 'Heath' jean from 2005. Funny, the catalog version looks like a '37:

Jason, those Stevenson's are a thing of beauty. Does Craft carry them regularly?

How do I get into this whole duck craze without killing my wallet?

What are the APC NS of Duck?

The Levis 501?

Probably Carhart duck pants. Well made & durable, look good too. Riff posted some, I think, in the first post on this thread.

Hey Youngpuch, I didn't know you won the raffle!

So yeah, fuck you! And the shitty, cardboard-like and unwearable Iron Heart jacket you will no doubt use said gift certificate for which I'll bet you'll get in the wrong size and then get mugged for by drunken soldiers from the military base.

Without trying to sound like a shameless plug, but what season is the leather biker jacket that I'm selling for a friend (link in signature for more pictures) from?

The '60s moto jacket, from 2000. AFAIK, the first LVC leather jacket! Not an Aero product, but still nice.

Driving the rivets:

Doming the inside of the rivets:

Sewing the outer stitch using a mechanical guide:

The inner stitch is done freehand, so that they end up with this fantastic organic look:

Working on the fly placket:

The finished placket:

That's all of the process I was there for this time, hopefully ROY will have me back to see the other parts when I order my next pair.

I'll take pictures of the finished jeans for posting when I pick them up next week.

Can't wait!

Here are some shots of ROY working on my jeans. I couldn't stay long enough to see the whole process, but I was there for the installation of the hidden rivets and some pocket work.

ROY says the process for one single pair of jeans, start to finish, is about 2 1/2 hours. That's probably when he doesn't have someone dogging him with a camera, standing in his light, and poking him in the leg with a tripod.

The pile of cut denim that would become my jeans:

Cutting a stack of pocket linings:

I asked ROY at this point if there was any part of the process that wasn't fun. He laughed and said "only if it isn't working right."

Preliminary stitching on the back pockets:

The industrial iron at work:

More stitching:

Attaching the pockets in preparation for driving the rivets:

BASTARD! What, are you switching from '40s soup kitchen patron to 1902 brewery driver?

Update on my LVC 55, complete with LVC cotton duck jumper, gap selvage shirt (limited vis) and tricker's

Heh heh heh.

Great photos, emissary from superfuture!

I placed my order last week, trying to break out of my lvc rut. It's cool to know my order ticket was on the board when you took the photo. Like every one has already said, dealing with ROY has been a great pleasure.

Ha! I figured that there was at least one order for a sufuer on the table, so when ROY wasn't looking I touched all of them. Nice to meet you.

Did you get any more photos of some more of his work (non-jeans, etc.)?

This is theROY-made orange hoodie:

And the denim jacket:

Look at the selvedge lines inside- I meant to take a closer look at how this was constructed, but I forgot.

rnrswitch- I couldn't stay long enough to see the jeans finished, so I'll pick them up next week.

youngpunch- very well said.

Looks like Roy was the man for the job to document Roy! Did you get any more photos of some more of his work (non-jeans, etc.)?

In that first picture I posted of him, Roy made all of the clothing he's wearing- the jeans, denim jacket, and gingham shirt. He also made the orange hoodie he is wearing in some of the background shots. I'll try to find some better pics.

The jacket was really nice- longer than a standard jean jacket, not as tight in the waist as most, and very simple. No hand warmers. Nice selvadge lines in an unusual place on the inside of the jacket- I'll dig out the pic of that too.

Thanks, zissou.

These are some detail shots from around Roy's. I have a series of photos of ROY actually working on my jeans- I'm still processing those, so maybe I'll have them posted by tomorrow evening.

Clever rivet-holders ROY made last week:

ROY's business card:

Button-hole testing:

Also from the table of the button-holeing machine:

Belt-loops waiting to get attached:

ROY also holds down a full-time job as a metal-worker. When I asked him when he sleeps, he pointed to this drawing of his hanging by the industrial iron:

A swath of cotton duck used for embroidery practice. Note the "Grease" logo:

From the order board:

Finally- a title!

ROY's vintage sewing machines were amazing. Really beautiful machines, for the most part. I think the ones in use range in date of production from the 1920's up to the 1970s. There was one incredibly industrial-looking machine for sewing coarse leather that might have been from a later date. It's sort of mind-numbing to look at all of the machines set up perfectly with from two to five bobbins of thread suspended above them, all of the individual threads running down through loops and hooks to the sewing heads. My terminology probably sucks, sorry.

There were also a lot of defunct machines stored here and there that were being used for parts for the operational machines.

I think these images speak for themselves except for the last shot here, which is of a belt-loop maker. Strips of cut denim are threaded in from the right, and the guide folds and sews the loops from both sides.

I went over to Roy Slaper's workspace yesterday. He was nice enough to allow me to take pictures of his place, of some of his clothing, and of him in action working on a pair of jeans (mine!).

The workspace is located in the back of a cabinet manufacturing warehouse in west Oakland, CA. It's a really fantastic space, about 20 x 100', as I eyeballed it, packed with vintage sewing machines dating from the 1920s to the 1970s. There were at least eight distinct work stations set up, as each of the vintage sewing machines is apparently quite specialized.

All of the windows were opaque, but admitted a lot of light, mostly filtered through a large tree abutting the west side of the building. Really a small denim world unto itself.

This first batch of photos are of the general layout plus Roy displaying a few items of clothing he has made.

View from the door:

From the opposite end:

Bolts of raw and sanforized denim, plus some of the terracotta colored cotton duck LVC has been using for their new run. All of these fabrics are from Cone.

Some other fabrics ROY had been experimenting with:

A chambray shirt ROY made and has worn heavily while working. The placket is nice- the material was folded over and embroidered to form the hem.

Current orders waiting to be filled. Thios gives a good idea of the scale of ROY's operation as of now- he told me this was the most orders he'd so far worked at one time (11).

Piles of cut denim components waiting to be sewn. I believe the farthest pile in on the right is to become my jeans.

Bolts of fabric at Roy Slaper's place in Oakland (ROY Denim). All are Cone fabrics. From left: a dark raw Black Seed; a slightly purplish sanforized denim with a yellow selvadge line; Cone's new cotton duck. This duck is the same farbric used on the new LVC duck items, like Paul's jumper, below (which looks fantastic- doesn't look to me like it needs altering, unless it is artfully pinned in the back with clothes-pins?).

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