erk

4 hours ago, Paul T said:

 NAFTA maybe had a lot to do with it, then there was the influence of Gap, a key all-American clothing brand.... with no US factories. levi's shuttered a lot of their plants to compete with them.

 

Guhhhhhhhh

Perhaps @spunkey will respond to his public shaming 

the lofgren boondockers are munson last. I can't imagine someones paddles not fitting well in that last. very paddle friendly. 

well, my original post was really about how the lower rise appears to be a change made by japanese brands to make pants that fit an asian frame. Denime, Samurai, Sugar Cane, TCB 60s, Resolute all seem to fall into this category for me. 

More westerner friendly companies seem to include TCB (50s, 20s, Seamens), Warehouse, Ooe...etc 

That being said Earl's Apparel will certainly get you a good rise. I absolutely love this brand. I don't have anything from their Stan Ray label which seems to be going after a more stylish market with tapered/slim offerings. Most of my experience is with the Gung Ho camp trouser ( which I maintain is one of the best pairs of pants of all time.) and the Gung Ho fatigue pant ( which is probably the exact same as the Stan Ray). The only issue with Gung Ho stuff is you have to spend some time with a seam ripper to remove the ghastly purple logo that comes on the back pocket flap.  

Also the shirt is designed to be tucked in 

I don’t think so. You could have the length taken up too. If you don’t like it. I think the shoulder fit is right where it should be. The rest can be changed by a tailor for not a lot of money. 

2 hours ago, Ciabatta said:

Guys I’m kinda in love with my regular, department store STF 501’s over my OOE’s and Sugar Canes.  I think I’m kinda of burnt out on denim in general.

Its hard to argue with the basic 501 STF. The regular STF cut is awesome. I wish they'd release a LVC type quality STF 50 ( I know there is the made in USA 501 with cone denim but take a look at the stitching/back pockets and you shall see my issue ) Especially priced in my strike zone of sub $200. 

Maybe keep the shirt and get the sleeves shortened by a tailor? 

Hmmm. Maybe it’s model to model. That 15 looks pretty nice 

On 2/10/2018 at 3:43 AM, Paul T said:

That's such a good question and I don't really know the answer. I did ask a designer some time back and he told me they'd been forced to go with polycore, rather like Roy, for reliability - it takes longer to stitch all cotton. And, actually, some of it fades in nicely. But some doesn't. Stitching on that deadstock pair simply looks nicer and I can't work out why - although the roughness is a part of it. 

Going forward, if LVC are moving to mostly Kaihara denim, I wonder if they'll do something about these kinds of issues, for instance rayon tags.  If the denim is bought in, and they're made under contract, they will need some USP. Otherwise they might as well get them sewn in Japan again. Or they could hire Roy Slaper?

I feel like the thread on the latest pair I had ( a pair of 44s ) looked pretty bad. I don't have my royxcones anymore so I can't compare but my memory is that the thread looked a lot better than the LVC stuff. I'd love to see them at least move back to doing rayon red tabs. My bet is that they just don't like that the name gets all screwed up and you can't read it. but thats whats so cool about the red tab! 

I had a feeling there might be some deeper freakiness to the swissjeansfreak... 

12 minutes ago, volvo240thebest said:

Jeez that's a big belt there, 2 inches wide is it?

1.75” I think it might just look large due to the way the pic is taken. It’s just an iPhone shot 

and @Paul T jack’s look in one flew over the cookoo’s nest was a serious source of inspiration for me back when I first saw that in high school. Still haven’t gotten over it. 

 Its a little embarrassing to be posting such a gratuitous  crotch shot but this is for the sake of discussion and maybe Ed will get a kick out of it.   I Feel like TCB 50s get me pretty close. 

these are just a few examples I've found that I feel like illustrate my point with my rise/topblock fascination.  

See I had avoided posting this cause I kinda felt like I was putting myself too far out there. Letting my mind musings loose on the world of superfuture. 

I think all those look great -those are definitely a good looking pair of sugar canes. 

I've had this idea for a while now and maybe it doesn't deserve its own thread but whatever. I've been wanting to field some opinions about something I've noticed with a lot of the Japanese brands talked about on this forum. 

As a western man with a waist of 31 inches I've found that a front rise lower than 11.5" is a no-go for me. I'm really only looking for my jeans to give the impression of a vintage 501 and not only is the lower rise found on certain models uncomfortable but I feel like it throws off the look of the jeans. This gets to the topic at hand; are these lower rise Japanese models simply tailored to fit a Japanese body type and we're trying to squeeze our lanky westerner bodies into them? 

What differences in patterning have you guys noticed? thoughts? Models you like / models you've had issues with. 

Me personally I've found the TCB 50s to work well for me/westerners. The sugar cane 1947 although well made with very interesting fabric and details fits frumpily on me and I actually don't think I've ever seen a picture of someone wearing a pair that didn't look frumpy to some degree. 

thoughts?

Nice article Paul. I'll have to see if I can find that somewhere.

I have a question about the thread. This has become a bigger issue for me regarding LVC vs Japanese manufacturers vs Roy 

I've had LVC, Roy and a number of Japanese brands. LVC by far has the worst looking stitching of all of them. It looks really basic and blah. I don't have a problem with Roy and I believe he has stated that he uses polycore. Is what I'm seeing just a variant in crappy poly core and good poly core? Is LVC just springing for garbage polycore thread? 

I didn't bother washing mine either. they werent too dirty really. I did however include a little thank you note with my patch inside the envelope. 

look at that leg twist!

the beauty of the fabric is really apparent in this photo. these 2 are very accurate in terms of real life color. I had worn mine nearly every day since I had gotten them. So this represents about a month of wear. too soon young to be destroyed. 

twas a sad day at the post office today :*( 

Makes sense. I’ll be sending mine tomorrow. I’ll take some final pics before they leave. 

nice. they look great. welcome to the club.

Double post. Delete pleeeeeease

I suppose the Lee x warehouse aren’t coming back? Anyone have any insight? 

I’ve been wondering this too 

I heard r/rawdenim on reddit has a lot Of good info