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By julian-wolf · Posted
This is huge news! Really looking forward to hearing more details when the time comes to share -
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By rodeo bill · Posted
lovely @Georg! I'll post pics of my own one of these sometime soon. For now, though, I have a new jeans type, 156, which are coming in to stockists and which I'm really pleased with. they're a significantly higher waist than previous cuts (varies a bit by fabric and size, but my indigo sizer 4 pair is 14.75" front and 18.5" back), and come with X back braces. More to the point, though, they're cut straight, as tailored trousers, rather than open, as jeans. Here's my double indigo broken twill pair, which I've been wearing since September or so: They're based around somewhere between the 132 and 136 cuts, but with a raised waist, and rather than having an angled front and back seam (like jeans), the fronts are cut almost straight on the grain line. This is a cutting angle which works best with suspenders/braces, and is traditional for dress trousers, or early workwear which was basically a heavy version of the same thing. The first Tender jeans, 132, was adapted from British Rail uniform pants, but cut open to wear like jeans. This is going back to the original, in some ways. Here's a fairly clear demonstration of open and closed cutting: Ok they're all diagonal, but you can see the change in angle across the centre seam in type 133 trews: Compared to the almost parallel stripes in 156: The side pockets are cut into the seams, and the yoke remains at the position that it would be for a standard waist pair, so that the extra shape stays in the seat and the raised waist sits above it (if they're worn high- if you wear them low like I mostly do then they fall down a bit but feel like high waisted trousers worn low, which is a really nice, subtly different, effect). The waist band is put on as two separate pieces, with a gap in the middle where the seat panels are just hemmed. This is a less costumey take on the idea of a split back or fishtail back, but done in a mechanised jeans waist way. These come from the new Spring/Summer 2025 production, which is the last fully UK-made Tender collection. More in all this soon, and as it develops, but the plan is to move clothing production and dyeing, and eventually weaving, to our new home in the US. Having said that, I have stock of denim fabric in the UK so for the foreseeable future jeans will continue to be made in the UK. More soon!
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