AlientoyWorkmachine

3 minutes ago, rodeo bill said:

lovely comparison photo! your 132s are certainly going to fit quite differently from the 129s. The denim is exactly the same spec and mill, although it will be from different batches. I expect the difference is in the washing that's gone into your 129s- both woad and Achilles' Heel are dyed relatively cool and gently rinsed, so they shrink a bit further with subsequent washing. When garments shrink the yarn gets denser as the fibres contract, and the weight/area increases which also makes the fabric feel harder. My guess is that the new jeans feel how the old jeans did, and they will feel how the old jeans do now after a few years. Alternatively there certainly could be some variation in the fabric.

Details have evolved somewhat over the years- I note that your 129 side belt loops are the 'transition' length (!). Originally the side belt loops were extended and sewn through the yoke seam, however this caused a lot of broken needles, going though a lined belt loop and 4 thicknesses of denim in the seam, which also risked damaging the seam itself. For a while the side belt loops were longer than the front and back ones, sewn though a single thickness of denim, but more recently the belt loops have been matching lengths, and set closer to the side seam, to give more support to a belt at the sides, where it's most needed. Snob's thumb pockets haven't intentionally changed, although the side pocket mouth will be a bit bigger in your upsized 132s than in your 129s, which will make the thumb pocket look proportionally smaller. Again, though, it is possible that there's a bit of natural variation over the years between the two versions. 

 

Looking forward to see how the fit and dye works out for you on your 132s- Please do let us know.

Just posted on Waywt and since it's all Tender again why not here. 

Yep, a markedly different fit was what I was after, and I've got it here. The 129's are still getting worn so I didn't want a replacement, per se, and I've learned I don't love hems that are characteristic of a lot of wider jeans so the full cut with the somewhat normal hem made sense for me here, sized up because it's fun to have a truly baggy pair in the mix and I haven't for too long. I did end up giving them a hot wash and double rinse because they were crocking like crazy, and I wanted to see if I could get any last bit of shrink out. I didn't do measurements but they did tighten up a bit, including the denim itself which now feels a touch closer to the Woad denim. Thanks for the note about the belt loops, interesting tidbit there. 

You've got the true Warehouse detail, which is the pocket thread stitching coming undone in the first few weeks of wear. 
Bank all the sleep you can now, you'll need it! 

2 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Don’t throw it out if it works mate - this is the whole point of the discussion 

Folk find what works for them. Just because I wouldn’t recommend it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use it.

I read an article long ago … along the lines that in Périgord where the bulk of foie gras is produced that the residents ate the most foie gras in France, smoked more than any other area in France and consumed more wine per head than any other region in France … not exactly doctors orders then. However it was noted they were also the longest lived people in France.

I’m not entirely sure how true all that was, but I’m sure you get the gist of things. 

Probably a healthy and active social and community life. Turns out that's worth a lot of years. 

I use a fifteen year old tin of Clark’s Weatherproofing conditioner on all my nicest leather shoes. I think I got it for $4 from an outlet store off the interstate. I’m sure I’m missing something but it’s never left me sad. Comparison being the thief of joy and all that. 

On 1/4/2024 at 8:38 PM, vlad_III said:

Not needing to hem is nice. Many options here in Tokyo and they all manage to mess it up one way or another. Including desolation row.  they don’t hem in store but outsource to some local place in Tokyo. Was quite surprised. Luckily Hoosier fixed that hem for me. 
 

your 30x30 must look really good. Unlike my tree stump 36x30. 

I guess just another thing to illustrate that those of us who deal with Hoosier are fortunate to know about him. 

Can’t say if my 30x30s are objectively good looking, but they’re probably the best overall sort of timeless fit I’ve had straightaway. Mind you, I sometimes prefer something less conventional. But I’m in academia for a fellowship year and they’re my pair for that, so the wear isn’t too tough, and after just a few months I’ve started washing them a lot as I fancy a lighter pair. As far as fades go they won’t be anything to note. 
 

I think my 30x30 51’s are the only pair to date that I’d entertain buying the exact same thing again when they wear out. Everything else I’ve had, even favorites, there’s something about them I want tweaked and so the next pair isn’t a repeat. 

Can confirm that. My 51’s came 30x30, it was a real treat to find that size from a brand like this and not need a hem. 

Comparison for fun. 4 yr old woad dyed 129s, fresh indigo (garment dyed) Achilles heel 132’s. I went big and got a size up for some true anti fit jeans. First time I’ve done that in years, so not expecting much in defined fades on these, not that garment dyed pieces lend themselves to that anyways. My hands turned blue just putting them in the pockets so they’re doing another hot hot soak to get rid of some dye and maybe get some shrink out. 

Curiously this new denim feels a bit different than the Woad pair - it feels a little softer, a little lighter, a little bit of a looser weave - something like that. Can’t quite put my finger on it. Also, some little details seem to have changed a touch over the years. Belt loops and snobs thumb pocket seem patterned slightly differently, or else the variations in batches might be more than just the denim. Not a criticism, just an observation. 

Not sure why but I’m a fan of them. I got something from Speedway awhile back and they’d filed them down, I was pretty annoyed by that. Doesn’t matter in the end but I do find the rivets (and the fat rounded backs) part of the charm. 

Happy new year all. I’m in my tender 129s, which are sufficiently beat in and I have a pair of 132 Achilles Heel on the way. I’ve waited a few years to settle on a roomier pair of my favorite denim and decided to go with the originals. It will be interesting to see how the indigo overdye compares to the woad overdye after some years of wear. 

Tender Sidings boots - which is what I usually go for if I’m not going to wear sneakers or birks. 

conditioning a pair of sidings boots pairs. On the right, about 3.5 years worn occasionally. On the left not even a year, worn occasionally. Right is a size larger, ultimately a little too big unless I wear super thick socks, but at this point quite comfortable. A little bummed the tab on the left boot ripped off recently, hoping to avoid that with the black boots. I love how the leather is coming along and curious how the black pair looks in a few years. 

@vlad_III maybe it does vary, because my 507xx 1951 jacket was an exact match with the jeans when new (I got the tux some time ago), and while I don’t have the 47, both are lighter and even a different shade of blue (more red cast) than in your photo. 

@Double 0 Soul like something pulled out of a mineshaft. The jacket is particularly good.  

The 51 denim (both the jeans and the jacket) start out a noticeably lighter shade of blue than anything else I've seen from FW, and from most other denims for that matter. I haven't handled the 47's but if the above photo is supposed to be a comparison of 47 and 51, I'd say that the color is definitely inaccurate, as the shade of the 51 is not reflected in that image.

@Duke Mantee that looks so good.

One of these days...

34 minutes ago, reallypeacedoff said:

You lucky bastards with size 31-33 genes. 

i'm a 30 but I'm sure could oversize a pair.

and yet.

meh. 

I'm sure they're nice. But too many things already. 

I can’t help you specifically with that but from what you write I would find another cut. One that fits the waist and isn’t too snug through the thighs and hips - unless you want that thigh hugging look. 

Are you on like on some Gilt style curated subscription service w/ S or do you just put in orders frequently? 

good day to cross post and this thread needed a bump.

Type 900 (indian black)
Type 129 (woad) 
sidings boots 

That denim looks (and fades) so much like the 14.5 oz warehouse pair I have. What weight is it? I am now wondering if how close if not the same the makeup is. 

I'm still considering the Tender ones, which look really nice. Last year I got a pair from Brut, those are great - I like the pleats but maybe that's not for everyone. Not sure if they're still available. De Bonne Facture has had some as well. Those Story ones ^ look great but that damn drawstring. I've seen a few other brands with the drawstring too and I just can't do it. Hot take but it makes them not real pants, but leisure wear. And one rule I have is that I will not wear that outside of my house. 

For me, the appeal is in what they’re aren’t as much as what they are. I said “warehouse are the best Levi’s I’ve ever owned” but that was before I put in time in some FW stuff. For me I just mean well made generic blue jeans that are made in some way close to how they used to be without plastic. Fabric is subjective- they’re different. WH probably offers more dramatic fades, which I could take or leave. What’s not so subjective are two very practical things for me - the pockets on FW are much better fabrics and the stitching is much more durable. I also love the rounded back rivets. For me the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Nice as WH is, esp when purchased from Japan, FW is just a better value to my mind. 
 

They both are nice and both offer good cuts - (most important thing!) to my mind.