AlientoyWorkmachine

To offer somewhat of a different perspective here that has little to do with old repros per se, nostalgia is a powerful drug. The search for “authenticity” is often a search for feelings one had as a youth, when everything was more exciting because one was young and because there is a sense of discovery at that age that there won’t be when you’ve lived longer, and seen more. It’s not to say that the pursuit of nostalgia is problematic, but one will simply never recreate the feelings of that age. It is a chapter in life. Now we are in a new chapter. 

There are plenty of brands here that I would contend exude the passion some probably found in the original Osaka 5 works. And maybe young people finding them today will have the same feelings about them twenty years from now. Tender, Freewheelers, and Ooe, (and TCB as noted) for example - all know how to do IG , yes, but they also clearly and patently make what they love and it shows in the clothes - those of us that have them probably appreciate them largely for this reason. There are things from the past worth holding on to, but we can’t completely. I also don’t mean to take anything away from collecting older models - if that’s your jam, by all means. It’s fun to go searching and find a treasure, absolutely. It just doesn’t mean that there isn’t something out right now that lacks that same magic. These are just perceptions. 

I use Leica digital Monochromes for my work. I use them because damn are the files so much better than a 35mm negative, and they make pictures possible that weren’t before. I’m stubborn and want the camera to feel like the sort I used for years, but that’s the irrational part of me. They are an objective improvement compared to the negatives you’d get from tri-x run through an analog M, and the prints (that I do digitally) have their own unique and beautiful presence that a silver print differs from (not better or worse).

But, I came up shooting film for a good while, I shot it for work when I had the budget, had to turn around that shit on deadline for magazines stubbornly when digital was in full force already because 10 years ago medium format film still had a very demonstrable advantage - as of about the 36 and 40 mp sensors in the D800 series or the Sony A7R series, it was gone. And I was happy to let it go. I still have my Rolleiflexes and M6, beautiful mechanical objects but they sit in a case because as photographic tools they’re not as good for most purposes. (Some specific purposes - I’ll never tell someone what they need - I’m sure can be found).

If one enjoys the process more, that’s great. Enjoying the process is the most important part of making things, most of the time. But careful not to hold an idea that it’s somehow something more real or pure because it’s older or slower etc. And there’s nothing that stops one from being deliberate on a digital camera. I get that the roll of film presents a hard limit on things, but there’s nothing stopping one from just shooting a few deliberately made pictures even if you can make 1000.  

Yes, we are awash in more plastic and more fakery and more advertising than ever, and it can make the good stuff hard to find, but it’s more out there than ever. Maybe this is because I work in the arts but there is great new work being made now, all of the time, and the idea of “the good old days” is a mirage that will never materialize because the way it exists in one’s head now is different than it was even then.

Realizing this probably belongs in the “nonsense” thread - mods feel free to move, or delete even if this is too insufferable ha. 

I would just have the shop measure the exact pair for you. That said, this is not a cut that requires precise sizing.

I have the 0105 in 4 different denims. The loosest waist I have is the size 29 SS(Super Smooth) denim. I sized down there just because the cut is loose enough that you can do this if you want a little less leg room, but I didn’t expect the looser waist. The most snug waist I have is the size 30 black/white denim. The 15.5 oz and the 13.7oz (both size 30) are both in between. 

To make matters even more confusing, I have FC chinos in size 32. They are, in effect, a similar waist (and cut!) as my size 29 SS denim. Go figure. 

This is a cut you can go either way with, just depending on if you want slightly more or less room - if in doubt. 

7 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Well, I still wear them so that makes me a wearer of collectible jeans?!

I mean of course it's all marketing. All the jeans/brands we discuss here market their products one way or another.
I don't really care how Sugar Cane names this line as long as the product is interesting to me. And from all the jeans released over the last couple of years, these releases sparked my interest the most.

I totally get it. The product themselves seem differentiated regardless of the name. No need to justify what draws you to them. Just offering my opinion on the branding/marketing and how that impacts the product for me. 

^ that's a beautiful pair of frankenpants 

This is the power of marketing for me. 

Do I collect pants? Yea, apparently I do to some extent.

Do I think of myself as someone who collects pants? No. Pants are for wearing. I buy them to wear (eventually), not to admire, stockpile, etc. 

”Super Denim Collectibles” makes it an easy pass! I guess I should thank SC, really. Otherwise I might end up with more jeans. 

I don’t want to get silly about it, but it’s possible FC keeps tabs on this thread, or maybe the other site as I would wager a not totally insignificant number of international sales are driven from a few specific corners of the internet. The price thing is ridiculous to me, but the good news is that it means my FC collection is definitely complete!

That's got to be wrong. Otherwise my FC binge this year was particularly well timed. 

I just washed my 01’s - no idea the amount of wear, but it’s got to be close to 3 months (I first wore them over a year ago). I thought some fades would show more than they did because the creases were really, really set. Nothing much to show right now though. A tiny bit of whiskering, the coin pocket fade is the most visible. I think some creases will move due to more shrinkage? Ultimately this pair is going to get washed a lot, my preference these days, so it’s all good. 

But yes, it seems a little stubborn. 

Gone

On 4/24/2024 at 5:02 AM, Broark said:

@beautiful_FrEaK yes they made a type 2, it was several years ago now (the post I found was from 2017).
I think they made it for one of their Japanese retailers Commono Reproducts (which seems like is no longer in business), not many were available.
Would love if they made a traditional type 1 / 2 someday.
Some more photos here: http://livininparis.com/2017/03/23/ooe-yofukuten-co/


 

Recently gambled and lost on one of these at size 38, though I suspected as much I had to try, they’re so tough to track down.

They’re beautiful jackets, and I’ve got one that’s just barely worn and just too small in the shoulders for me, and has relatively small arm holes for a type 2. The denim is stiffer and courser than their recent jeans.

Because of the pattern it’s realistically more like a 36, so if anyone is that size and interested drop me a line. It’s about a size too small for me and a size too big for my wife.

I’ll eventually list it if I can’t find someone I know will appreciate for it to go to. 

Meanwhile I’ll go back to hoping one day they will do this again! 

@Hopethisoneisnttaken that’s true enough, but it’s a lot more visible. 

Take my bias into account - I'm not one for extra pockets. No painters or cargos or anything like that for me. It's all 5 pocket jeans or 4/5 pocket trousers for me. 

So I'm for the first ones. 

Unless you're actually going to need that pocket for work.

^ Less enjoyable. Less burning coal! 

That said, I don't want to think of the cost of my jackets and how I am currently saving for solar installation. 

I don’t, I just like them more. I’ve really only got even halfway decent fades on probably 4-5 of them. That said, I probably wear a jacket more than like…95% of the people out there. My partner gives me (good natured) grief about it all the time. 

I'll just move this over here and also I missed a few: 

1. Sugar Cane - SC15210 Wool Lined 1953 type 2 (38) - *

2. Mister Freedom Ranch Blouse Midnight Denim (38) - * 

3. Tender Type 900 Indian Black (sz 3) - *
4. Tender Type 900 19oz cross weave denim, also Indian Black (sz 3) - *
5. Tender Type 933 (Zoetrope Coat, plain weave indigo/walnut, size 3) - *

6. Freewheelers 507xx 1951 (40) - !
7. Freewheelers Lot S516XX1946 (40) - * 
8. Freewheelers Lot 506 XX 1922 (40) - * 
9. Freewheelers 507 RB (40) - !

10. Fullcount 2107 (40) - !
11. Fullcount 2107 SS (40) - ! 

12. Companion Denim - Cone Tribute Jacket (M) *
13. Companion Denim - Cone Tribute Jacket (S) - X
14. Companion Denim - overdyed natural indigo (M) - ! 
15. Companion Denim - French Work Jacket in Indigo HBT (M) *

I'm currently favoring the FW '22, SC 15210, and Companion Denim French Work Jacket. 

Related, non denim jackets.

- SC15463 - Flannel lined, Beige Corduroy 1953 (38)
- Kapital Tri-P Coat (Beige), M
- Tender Co. Type 961 (Baste jacket, velvet, sz 3) 
- Blue Blue Japan Indigo Sashiko Stand up Collar Chore Coat (sz 2)

Awaiting 
17. OOE Yufukuten type 2 (38) - although I have a suspicion this may be end up too small I had to snatch it up at auction to see. 
16. Freewheelers 507B (38) 
18. Warehouse S2161 WW2 Tailor Style Denim Jacket

@julian-wolf I’ve never been one for upscale T shirts but the dyeing on the tezos really looks nice. How do you find their sizing? Runs a little small tells me to go for an M. More true to size makes it more complicated. 

@beautiful_FrEaK the 47's look good on everyone. If there is a disagreement, the wearer is the problem, not the jeans. I'm sure you understand this deep down.  

@MJF9 and your denim jackets? 

Could the weight discrepancy just be between raw and one wash? Denime’s XX denim is 14.5 oz raw - so that would be about 15.5-16 oz after a wash I’d imagine. 

@Hopethisoneisnttaken that's been my hang up. I am not a shirt tuck in sort of guy. I can do short in length pullovers/sweatshirts and jackets, but tucking in...haven't been able to find comfort in it. I'll do it when the situation calls for it, but in my life that's fairly rare. I may revisit come winter because wool was what I thought about. 

Not here. Vests in general hold little interest to me. There's a dividing line somewhere in the workwear spectrum that is hard for me to define, but I know that when something is on the other side of it, it's not for me. Even if I liked vests, this would fall on the other side of that line. Kudos to anyone who rocks it though. 

https://www.nytimes.com/2024/05/28/style/benjamin-talley-smith-denim-jeans.html?smid=nytcore-ios-share&referringSource=articleShare 

This guy annoys the heck out of me. He thinks he "made" jeans in nearly everyone's closet. Aside from his language stripping the actual garment workers of what they did, I'm quite happy there's nothing in my closet he's had anything to do with. I don't tend to follow a lot of fashion journalism but Vanessa Friedman in particular always seems a little out to lunch with her columns, especially when it comes to denim, and apparently her guests too.

Those look great. What has your washing schedule been like? I have a whole slew of 0105's just waiting to really get started on - I love the cut, but I also have some jeans I want to get through first. Problems. 

Thanks for posting. I’ve definitely considered their trousers a few times, so I wouldn’t mind knowing more. 

On 1/11/2023 at 2:58 PM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Mostly the same - my two purchases for jeans in 2022 were OA's and Indigoferas.

Waiting in the closet:

Ooe Yufukuten OA01XX-0522 (31)
MF Lot 64 Midnight (30)

Most Active: 

Warehouse DD 1003xx 1946 (29)
Indigofera Kirk (Gunpowder) (29)
Tender 129 (Woad) (sz 2)

Less Active, but still worn: 
Mister Freedom Lot 64 (29)
SC Edo Ai (30)

Got rid of/packed away mostly everything else.  

I’ve gone on a run these past 18 months and need to tone it down.
Excuse my arcane signifying system. I’m too tired to think of something better. Haven’t sold hardly anything and really don’t want to, though this may change at some point. I think I have a bigger problem with jackets. 

* = active rotation, ! = in storage closet, X = well worn, mostly dormant

Tender 129 (Woad, size 2)- X 
Tender 132 (Achilles Heel, size 3)- !

Freewheelers 601xx 1951 (30) - *
Freewheelers s601xx 1944/45, (30) BNWT - !

TCB 20’s (31) - *
TCB 30’s, black, BNWT, (31) - !

Indigofera Kirk, Gunpowder (29), - X

Warehouse 1003xx 1946 (29), - *

Sugar Cane, Edo Ai (30),- x

MFSC - Lot 64 Midnight Denim (29) - *
MFSC - Lot 64 Midnight Denim (30) - !

Ooe Yufukuten OA01XX-0522 (31) - * and most worn currently
Ooe Yufukuten SOA03XXD-0823, BNWT (32) - !

Fullcount 0105 (30) - ! 
Fullcount 0105bk (30) - *
Fullcount 0105xx (30) - !
Fullcount 0105SS (29) - * 

Awaiting

Freewheelers lot 601xx RB (30)