bartlebyyphonics

1 hour ago, volvo240thebest said:

^ my festival is a chamber music festival, we do every year about 15 chamber music concerts plus usually one folk/crossover concert and about two jazz concerts.

I'm surprised you know Al Qantarah, that's some pretty obscure 90s/millennial music from Sicily. Check out Unavantaluna and mostly Fratelli Mancuso, they're both pretty amazing in their own way. I'm a big fan and a long time friend of the Mancusos.

look fwd to listening to those tips: thanks. 

when beginning raw denim journey in my callow yoof i was all boredoms, merzbow and otomo yoshihide (for the musicologists, his take on peking opera as ground zero is hardcore as is his take on takeo yamashita)

as it stands, shostakovich's chamber music such as string quartets and jewish folk poetry are my current sources of jolly sonic discord... 

found al q through encountering the jewish harp in an ethnographic museum: their music was used as the example... was hoping they were still doing the rounds

On 15 June 2017 at 10:07 AM, volvo240thebest said:

Meanwhile I've received the arcs design...

mmmmm 

17 hours ago, orchestrion said:

The fit feels fine but I'm worried they look too big on my chicken legs. 

worry not

proportion is a consensual fiction

socially managed, individually challenged, temporally shifting

Sappho: beauty is what you love the most...

Plato: beauty is proportion (socially agreed value and the mythemes of transcendental ideals)

which side will you choose?

Finally getting off the fence: lets go nuts for comfort and flair (and the ability to actually hot-wash)

thanks foxy for the run-down of sizing comparisons between 50s and 20s again: good to have those facts confirmed from nycsurfer experience...

(boring rationale: my 50s are tiiiight on the guts and if 20s are marginally tighter in waist band and slightly smaller in front rise, even with promised stretchiness, that is not what I go to 20s 'fully loaded' jawns for... I  am left with no option: like volvo, a 37 is preferable, but... [only other option is to wash 36 in cold water for 18 months - nah])

(raw) 38 with 85 inseam (at post-shrinkage)

wide and cuff-able with an aim for ankle swinging, sod the fades...

no to exercise or dieting for 18 months: yeah!

&&&&&&&&&&

thanks again to volvo, ed and bobbo for all prep production and hostingzzzzzz

looking fwd to it...

and good luck with the festival dear volvo! any Al Qantarah? [i greatly enjoy their 'Abballati, abballati!' for medieval sicilian sing alongs...]

22 hours ago, sk8eddie said:

Any recommendations on jeans in the 1890-1930 style? The only ones I know of are the new LVC 501XX 1890 and the TCB's 20's.

if I was on 4chan I would recommend yee to lurk moar

but In this regard I am interested too…

I feel a little too green to post the response to such a question (which demands a real thorough knower to stump up), but here are some (tbh most found from denimbro browsing – the real archaeologists of turn of the century wear):

Oee did an amazing 1890 hercules (a denim bruin special, now sold out, but interesting for reference)

https://standardandstrange.com/products/hercules-overall-denim-125-years-finish-lot-0716

a link Fried-san has posted many times on the db leepro thread:

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=120

and the lee japan options

http://www.lee-japan.jp/archives/

blue blanket offers some nice examples:

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/P08/

http://www.blueblanketjeans.com/en/IJ1/

rising sun have these turn-o-the century themed beasts

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/blacksmith-raw

https://shop.risingsunjeans.com/collections/pants/products/powerhouse-chino-ind-raw

micheal harris wrote the book on the pre-1890 history and competing brands alongside levis

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/Jeans-Old-West-Michael-Harris/0764335006

then…

basically all good Japanese repro brands should be knocking out a lot of 1920s onwards models

ie

http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=103088279

happy digging...

9 hours ago, mondo said:

All right, here's a recent blunder—would be better with pics; perhaps I can work something out, but for now I just want to exorcise:

 

 

my condolences for your trauma

sobering lessons for us all...

hell is other people, and all that

or phps the experience is proving the truth of shoot first ask questions later...

at least you'll have a source pile of nice denim swatches for repairs if you ever get into boro

(i say this glibly whilst hiding my own secret shame of wrought devastation with shears upon innocent garments)

^^

post review and pix of hat when arrives pls!

On 12 June 2017 at 8:30 PM, JDelage said:

I'd like a recommendation for a nice chore coat, in order of preference brown hickory, indigo hickory or wabash, or indigo. It's actually to do gardening, etc, so ruggedness & value > style. Thank you!

here is the post overalls blog, mostly sharing to show the range of vintage chore jackets he has in his collection from osh gosh to can't bust 'em via hercules...

http://www.postoveralls.com/blog/

but in full agreement about french coat also

and tbh when I garden, it is the bib overalls for me...

dbl post oops

3 hours ago, chicote said:

I reckon you might be able to find a used Sassafras coat on Rakuten for not too much. Iron Horse is right that Pointer Brand is going to be much cheaper regardless, but Sassafras is up there construction- and materials-wise with some of the best Japanese brands, with incredibly creative patterning and design to boot.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/kind-u/item/575317001998/

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/auc-life-sendai/item/170430747h0035sn33/

and sassafras is indeed gardening themed...

i am great fan of post overalls, but he renders the chore more delicate, not more rugged...

and what of filson for authentic outdoors-ism? not so chore based, but... i say this as they serve as the basis of much post overalls design

^

thanks aho!

I find most research is without aim but with enough time spent it is rarely without fruit (and always trust inference)

glad its useful/of interest

see link to a big show in 2016 on the japanese-american photo-clubs of 20s onwards

http://www.janm.org/exhibits/making-waves/

///////

and anyone with 20s denim fit pix or adjunct/related material?

pls post!

2 hours ago, aho said:

^Genuine 20's fits are indeed hard to come by, though I posted a few somewhere on denimbro a year or so ago? This remains one of my favorites, and my conclusion was that all others are hard to verify that they're actually Levi's:

 

^^^

many thanks and many greetings

very aware of your db posts and search and also your instagram posts and very thankful for them

i was thinking if the scholar dr heech could provide no more, then phps the equally scholastic Paul T might provide a gem 

probably wrong place to monologue this [so apologies - tldr: rant about photo-history, with Shigemi Uyeda given props]:

but yes, a little stumped on searching [but not really scraping archives, surfing photo histories more, not yet going to Larry Schaaf / Allen Sekula territory] the move to image the 'worker' principally coming to fore in europe/russia in 1920s much more than US which in most general photo-histories go into the shift from pictorialism to modernism [Stieglitz, Weston, Strand etc. - altho. Strand does some amazing shots of Italian farmworkers in 1950s].

Given your great IG posts on Japanese-American citizens and workwear I wanted to insure you knew of these great but little known photographers of 1920s. In the context of pictorialism/modernist photography [which works to abstract workers from the image]  Shigemi Uyeda's 'Reflections on the Oil Ditch' [easy to find] and Kentaro Nakamura's 'Evening Wave' [pasted below]  - both from mid-1920s - are worth looking at as both abstract images in the modernist vein, but also as the product of Japanese American aesthetic meetings. As I understand it Uyeda was a farmer as well as member of a photo-club, so I like to imagine he was wearing his 20s Levis as he shot...

33 minutes ago, chicote said:

Funny you mention that act—I was just reading this morning about its use in a lawsuit against a company selling "Hopi ear candles". The Hopi have never used anything remotely resembling an "ear candle", but still had to fight for three years to get the company producing them to stop using their name in its marketing.

On the note of the shirts you mentioned, I've always thought it weird to see first nations' fabrics and patterns on western-styled shirts in general. They look so out of place!

Assemblage of the western-style with the assimilated...

an example from 1934

Louise Massey, Milt Mabie & co. w. some choice navajo themed chaps...

[an image I found whilst searching for 20s fit pix that seems appropriate here... from 'How the West was Worn']

a triple-pleat is warming my heart rite now

inside and out

the best shirt weight jacket I have occupied...

On 9 June 2017 at 0:42 PM, Paul T said:

Just wanted to drop in to say great work, Volvo, what a lovely pair of pants! Best of luck to all of you with the contest, wish I could be with you but funds tight in the T household. Brexit problems! PT xx

much sadness to your absence

and when they promised financial wonders for Brexit... Nigel and Boris were hue-hueing all the way...

one request tho, linked to the contest: any 1920s denim fit pics you can find from your trawls? can't find many in yr most excellent book (am I not looking right?) and if looking for general 20s am finding lots on oxford bags (for the widest hems in history) or lots of european workwear (i.e. images by August Sander). Any pointers for where to look? The recording of US workwear seems to slip into photographic darkness in the period between Lewis Hine and the FSA for the casual researcher - although a close viewing of Paul Strand and Charles Sheeler's 'Manhatta' is on the cards for what glimpses it might provide...

some 1920s sartorial images as enticement (all missing jeans fits - hoping you can fill the blanks): Tom Mix's epic hat and blanket coat combo, inflated oxford bags hems, a set of german workers and bonus image of Sergei Tretiakov...

^ nice updates sir

don't be afeared of tech postings: as interesting as retro furniture...

2 hours ago, edmond said:

For bigger boys like me and who wants a loose hean rather than vilvos tight fit preference 

yeah!

thnx for true raw 36 vs. 38 numbers!

yeah!

and me no belgium (I am half dutch tho and have inherited the stupid height) but live in the inter-zone known as the UK... 

8 minutes ago, volvo240thebest said:

I don't wear black 

woah.

sounds serious

no black bloc for you

only the tute bianche ...

genoa history and joking aside, black and denim not best combo

white tee, blue design my preferred

12 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

hey you bunch of uneducated peasants! not one single comment on the patch?!? I think it's one of the best patches I've ever seen, I'd love to have the same design on a tshirt.

sorry sir

lazily thought thanks to you and ed was covering it

but obs not.

dude, 'tis a mighty nice patch! happy to wear it into week jerky for 18 months!

give yr design friend props from me!

it got lost in all the niceness and pocket bag confusions!

I propose chicote t-shirt for the tour!

8 hours ago, chicote said:

I can screen and/or discharge print the patch onto shirts if I can get a high-res copy of the image (or if it's ok for me to re-draw it)!

 

Also really tempted to enter this contest—tried on the 20s at The Shop last week and loved how they fit...

DO IT! (like Shia sez)

Also: yr personal perspectives on the fit?

16 hours ago, garden gnomes in space said:

my tagged 35 50's contest have a 12" front rise.  the reason Im picky about this thing is right around 11.5" or less for me things start to get uncomfortable quickly.  I cant wear SDA's because they all have sub 11.5" front rises for the size I need

in total agreement about the pain of the sda mini-rise: the reason I went for tcb over sda 101 is precisely this matter

going for my only point of jawns 20s reference: 

measuring my auld lvc 555 201s size 36 (fit like 34s, aka don't fit no more) I note that the front rise is 31cm = very very much part of my reasonings for thinking of sizing up and going for the nappy butt but maximising volume of general jeanage (and going more for the japanese style of oversizing anyway: boring examples beyond excellent nifty-do pix volvo has given us yamamoto is greatly influenced by the costumes seen in pix of August Sander, but then volumised up)

also the 201 denim is stiff as a post, whereas, tcb def has more give...

anyone have perspective on what a 'true' 20s fit is really like? dustbowl pix are going a decade late... (as is the john wayne belt 'n' bracing)

2 hours ago, nycsurfer530 said:

With TCB I always recommend your your true waist size- not denim size. 

thanks again

& tru that

I have a 36 in tcb 50 and is true 18 inches waist laid flat whereas have Lee 101 tagged 34 measuring 19 inches waist flat... (which are comfy, but always sliding off)

so my gut instinct is to go for the 38 and get the cinch into action to maximise tcb volume (and use waist buttons for the odd suspenseful action)

but good to know I have time to decide - thanks heavy doom for reminder / clarification

and yes

excitement level MAX

and thanks ed and volvo for all the sorting out!

and to the world tourers for the prelim action

and interest confirmed.

and size confirmed.

edit:

size: raw 36 with hemming for 83cm inseam post shrinkage pls

^ I think it means what the front pockets themselves are made with (rather than usual cotton)

37 minutes ago, heavydoom said:

i am interested.  volvo, what courier company will be used to ship these pants?  this is a very important factor for me.  i hope EMS.   any other carrier and i am out.  sorry.

 

that pcoket bag thing, so it's a bag that contains the jeans? 

pocket bag = the pocket structure / fabric

i.e. indigo duck/ canvas =  the fabric the pockets are made from...

methinx?