bartlebyyphonics

^^

nice pix

foxy, tigerstrom, any thoughts on those measurements?

to my n00bish nose there seems to be little stretch beyond what nycsurfer had measured?

^^^^wah

fat thumbs

 sorry flash

accidental neg rep!

mods!

cons look great 

totally

canadian

brah

the mirrors are now at a reasonable price for some...

http://www.levi.com/GB/en_GB/levi/p/329980000

11 hours ago, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

great purchase and post. the 44s to me long stood for the best denim LVC would offer back in the days and still is one of my favorite

vintage jeans, superior to the 47s and 37s...

thanks!

your recommendation of the 44 fabric earlier was contributing factor (as is the csf frenzy here and on db - want to see how these fade in comparison)

also, aho's great IG posts on 40s workwear and various other contradictions in photos of japanese american internment helped

[to keep the cuffs, but lose the clipboard and welcome the neighbour...]

posting up newly acquired lvc '44

definitely everything they promised

huge rise, oversized waist

with a hot rise and a 40C wash, line dry

very little shrinkage width-wise

but some good twist

the fabric has taken a while to show

but the fluff is emerging...

hung over from too much tequila

staring into the indigo ocean and surrounding natural patina

looking for salvation

[+ for some period specificity, I also post an excerpt from Minor White's excellent 'Amputations' series made 1942-1947, himself a lover of natural detail and wearers of work wear, it was a piece censored for its short shrift to the logics of war]

^^^

thank you!

On 13/06/2017 at 7:18 AM, Foxy2 said:

out of curiosity - what are the current measurements?

following up on foxy's request

some measurements before washing pls to judge denim stretch ahead of all 20s comp. final size deadline

edit: both requesting at same time! before or after wash measurements fine

15 minutes ago, ironheartfan123 said:

Anti-semitic hate media on the internet (typically identifying as "right" wing) puts a triple-parens around a person's name to identify that person as part of a global conspiracy (I think some older people are doing it too)...though I don't think that's happening here?!

yup, le triple (((echo))) brackets used to highlight users for alt-right attention, then used in defiance...

kinda explained here:

http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/media/2016/06/why-are-there-triple-brackets-around-names-social-media

https://www.theguardian.com/technology/shortcuts/2016/jun/12/echoes-beating-the-far-right-two-triple-brackets-at-a-time

but echo shirt names?

Ok

eating my big words about bigness

listening to sage advice on cinch-alone wear

have satisfied sartorial issues of high rise and mega waist with a pair of lvc 44s instead (they really don't shrink: a 36 really is a 38 in their current model)

so changing my tcb20s request to a smaller model: 

w.36  l.83cm post wash pls.

thank you!

^^

bass weejuns are the king...

An ivy leaguer re-posting the ivy legend billax posting his love of the weejun

http://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/tag/penny-loafers/

If walking 10 hrs… some comfort style (my preference over sebago boat shoes or driving shoe if I had the readys)

http://www.yuketen.com/ready-to-wear/country-loafer-sg-c-brown

http://www.yuketen.com/ready-to-wear/blucher-with-kiltie-tan

some sale items here… Cheaney - cheaper than Alden, posher than weejun

https://www.cheaney.co.uk/cheaney-cannon-loafers-in-black-calf-leather-p322

^^

seconded.

csf.

mmmmm.

hmmmmm.

srs.

and then to court the banhammer

but to express in honesty about moves not in cosplay world

and sharing personal thoughts about personal strategies for competition moving forward beyond buttons...

to point towards more over-size fits that i actually do have time for; Martine Rose, altho she is more 90s retro than 20s repro...

and then also the TuTa of Thayaht as the other key design innovation of the late 1910s going into 1920s (one of the earlier workwear meets fashion collisions... the early jumpsuit which is what a well matched chore coat and jeans can well approximate - i show warehouse devotee delutoro in more 40s style garb as image that fascinates - a pairing for which my 20s are likely destined)

and then to add another image (shared on db earlier): Buck Jones (a 20s move star) posing in the 20s with what looks like an approximate version of the 1880 triple pleat, another potential partner for the garment (and stalwart suspender camouflage) - I wonder if this is what was paired with the 20s jean before the type I came about?

and then lastly, just because, Tsuguharu Fujita, pic from 1927, clearly style wise he was pretty fierce, didn't give a f*************k about big pants, and made damn fine pictures of cats (such as self portrait from 1928)... 

[edit: just to historicise matters further - if reading yr subculture histories like Dick Hebdige, Stuart Hall etc., y'll notice the 50s onwards is a stylistic repudiation of the fathers by the sons, a revolt, part of which is the slimmer fit against the baggy associated with the traditional working class... i think it is with the second summer of love in 90s and excessive consumption of MDMA that baggy come back in full fashion, inc the 'joes bloggs' jeans that rose is touching upon - so wearing a 20s jean like a 50s jean is all confusion to me...]

^

but beyond my stammer, the violence I have perpetrated on numerous innocent jeans is manifold, so I claim no innocence!

it is with hindsight on the ruins of the past that we are blown into the unknowns pastures of the future...

and cinch advise very welcome!

t-t-t-t-tapered?

^^

beautiful!

^^

nice. thanks!

the non-universal nature of fits truly noted! (Just checking excess material wasn't traumatising)

cinch ftw!

got home and quickly measured my old 201s (555 era, early 2000s?)

tagged w.36 (in reality about 34)

front rise 32

back rise 41

so tcb not really slashed front rise too drastically, but...

for me the braces / suspender issue is also quite historical: from a time when clothing was drastically more layered, and one was never only in a t-shirt...

(I too barely wear a t-shirt alone, and intend, even if wearing a shirt untucked and struggling with the braces, to sometimes just hide the braces between a shirt and a t)

as Paul T is listening again: I ask whether you have any good fit pics of 20s in general that you can / wanna share, not levis specific... nor as cosplay reference, more as points of reference / contextualisation

Again not denim but workwear related: I share two more August Sander, again of workers and a workers council in the 1920s, note their extremely layered clothing to hide the suspenders: the trousers aren't massive in volume, but they def look more comfort fit than the squeezed-in bikers of the 50s. I particularly like the maximum front rise there is when it is on show...

I also share a Paul Strand of a canadian fisherman of the 1930s, just to predict how 'unclean' the fit will probably be on my oversizing, going for bigness (but not cosplay)!

as someone intending to use cinch primarily more than belt and intentionally oversizing to maximise cinch / suspender options i feel should chime in with these two comments:

1. i would never buy a 20s without suspender buttons: to me they define that model / era of jean. but, interestingly with the reduction of the rise to 'modern' proportions i wonder whether inoue has designed a wee bit of the functionality out of them. going into hardy amies / suit heritage territory: it is my understanding that suspended trousers are really meant to be worn up and around the navel area to allow a nice drape. so those choosing no buttons are really going in the flow of the rise reduction, particularly for the taller / longer body. i feel the cinch is the thing i couldnt do without. and, tbh, if it wasn't for the amazing fabric of the 50s which i hope bodes well for the 20s the lower rise would possibly break the deal for me. i fully see why people dont want the buttons: tcb is not old town (who produce the most suspenseful of trousers) and braces produce cosplay fear in even the most stout of heart. the experience of mandel in relation to use of cinch on world tour is sought pls....

2. having worn the lvc 1873 and 201 (which both have suspender buttons) a lot years back the only discomfort that i really can report is when face-planting off my skateboard and then they used to produce some exquisite bruise patterns on the hips: not practical for such activities! but, fine for day to day, but not if worn in tension (or in high impact scenarios) on bony areas like hips...

On 15/06/2017 at 9:29 PM, machine-language said:

OK thanks

agreed. no butt. strnge pix. but mybee ask yr friend what fitz they liek?

On 09/06/2017 at 4:38 PM, tadcaster2014 said:

do you just think a good pair of selvedge denim would go with a Barbour

  Reveal hidden contents

 

jacket? 

i have an unhealthy luv 4 barbour. is good made vetements. is the class context that complicates. is proper farmer kit. wax. dry providing. 

[Bit of an image dump here.

Apologies begged.]

Sharing 50s in more perspectives

Going for a walk with a wee un

losing the indigo solo for some patterned arrays

in partnership

sharing 

a grandmother's handicraft, and some local handicraft

shirts and banners

leaves and other finds

fluffy details and twists and ropes and tracks

natural worlds and patinated details

^^

ecumenic is a great term. 

i like maynards shift to the curvaceous 

i agree with both cucoo and foxy

and...

tldr; i go on a rant, ask others to say their piece

i dont want to speak for all, esp as new member with habit of verbal blah, so i can only respond with my personal account.

when i bought tcb from a certain uk store - as a returning denim addict who was yet n00bish to the indigo world post 2004 and without knowledge beyond lvc & evisu - the blank pocket was actually a bonus

as a 'customer' i  dont really want the clarity of the design jazzed up to make them a special pair only owned by 20 odd people. 

as a 'researcher' i have had a long standing interest in appropriation and the arts, and always thought the theft-improvement of u.s. denim by the recently occupied japanese was an interesting cultural exchange and contestation bordering on subversion through attention to detail in a way that goes beyond mere faithfulness.

my interest in arcs or no, then, is less to do really with quirk [as this is just about taste, and i fully countenance exaggeration and whimsy over the machismo of momotaro's 'going to war' etc.] than with how it enters into a dialogue and/or contestation with its origin, how does it affirm yet destabilise, offering continuity and discontinuity at once...

plus, the straight lines remind me of carhartt, they might work on a dungaree pocket but the 20s pocket doesnt seem that big

but if cats do it for Inoue-san, then... they have a charm as the very emblem of post-fordist general intellect meets affective viral flow... [if he can find 20s equivalent of a meme, that could be a starting point: the fact is the brand-force of the arcs has precisely this memetic logic of an idea \ design-image that spread from ass to ass]

anyway, i promised myself to try to say nothing, but... would love to hear others. 

On 15 June 2017 at 11:31 AM, volvo240thebest said:

cute kittens