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junkie_dolphin

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Posts posted by junkie_dolphin


  1. 44 minutes ago, CB200 said:

    My view is that clothes are consumables. Care can help extend the life of a garment but won't preserve them forever. It sucks when it's an interesting piece starts to go, but better to have loved a piece to death than leave it stuck on a rack as a museum piece. It just kind of sucks that if a shell gains appreciable character overtime the performance declines as well. Boro style and a wabi sabi view seem to be a bit hard with synthetics and techwear. Might just be an attitude. Be interesting to see the newer ACR pieces with raw edges develop over time. Anyone have any interesting wear develop on those yet?

    Yeah, my take is that even though Gore-Tex might have better up-front abrasion resistance relative to Stotz, there are just fewer things that can go wrong with Stotz—plus, it's much easier to patch, and it fades much more gracefully than laminates. After a while Gore will also develop a bit of a stink that's hard to get out, which I've found is less the case with cotton.


  2. Someone on here was asking about the differences in foil between generations of the x-pac 3As. Not sure if this is applicable to all, but in 2016 the black foil was referred to as "FOIL F2 BLACK" and was listed as "87% PA, 13% PES." By contrast, in 2017 it's simply "FOIL BLACK" and "70% PA, 30% PES."


  3. Question about some of Acronym’s more “open” pockets:

    Both the J28 and the J56 have these ziperless pockets on the chest, positioned behind zippered or flapped pockets (in the case of the J28 these are like the 3a-1’s mezzanine pockets, I’m assuming). Do these pockets are fill with water in rain? Are there drain holes like with the 3a-1?


  4. Last time I asked this the question kind of got buried, but does anyone use any 3a modular with a 3a-1? I’ve seen a handful of things, but never heard people talk about it.


  5. 28 minutes ago, msoldano said:

    \5bd4a8f0a07dc_ScreenShot2018-10-27at2_04_42PM.thumb.png.3a5187265bcf5ba4fe9e00e7eb88e6ee.png

    Tell me if I'm buggin but this looks like a J1A in WS on the Nikelab mainpage on Nike.com. Those wrinkles o.O

    Think it’s the infamous J1A-FO he’s been flexing lately.


  6. Curious why some jackets are listed fabric/origin first, while others list it last. For example, the J1A-GT is one jacket, the GT-J1 is a different jacket altogether.

    Also, here's some facts about the first four 3As:

    - 3a-1
        - no intro needed
        - original came packaged in Acronym's first ever product, the "Kit 1"
        - was designed to interface with the early J1, then called the "Type: 2371 Full Mental Jacket"
        - in Kit 1 it was simply called "3rd Arm"—hence "3A"
        - packaged in Kit 1 with hip belt (which is what those buckles on the lower back of the bag are for)

    - 3a-2
        - small bag, essentially the larger outer pocket of the 3A-1 but with its own strap
        - lots of little dividers, both inside and outside the main pocket
        - visible in one of Acronym's earliest product videos: https://vimeo.com/37657451

    - 3a-3
        - original version of this had zipper pockets on the front, no webbing
        - visible in one of Acronym's earliest product videos (see: 3A-2)
        - 3a-3ts
            - later version with webbing added for modulars

    - 3a-4
        - arm-band sleeve thing
        - possibly only produced once?
        - visible in one of Acronym's earliest product videos (see: 3A-2)


  7. 42 minutes ago, AvantSol said:

    C'mon man let's be real, if you're gonna spend a shit ton on money on these clothes you gotta do a little research. 

    And you're missing the point of my statement; I'm not saying go back hundreds of pages to find one piece of information. Do it to actually learn something about what you're buying. Not like sufu is the only source either.

    (And btw the features like escape zip are listed on the acrnm page of the piece, just saying!)

    When I bought my 3a-1, I knew I wanted the bag for a number of reasons (some of which were aesthetic, but many were practical)—but I had no idea what that waterproof zip on the side of the bag was for. I thought it was a pocket, but I wasn't sure—so I was looking at the pocket number on the product page, and I couldn't figure out where the "last" pocket was. Turns out, the side zip just leads to the main compartment, and I had missed the two "mezzanine pockets" (I didn't understand what those were, and the product pics didn't really do a good job of explaining). I had to come here and ask around. People were kind enough to explain, even though this is literally the oldest product Acronym makes. Should I have lurked more? I have literally never seen a photo or video of anyone using that zip. Ever.

    Acronym's website does not always do a good job of explaining features.

    Acronym deletes old product listings, so it's hard to accumulate knowledge of older product just from browsing.

    You can do lots of research on a product and not learn everything about it. Escape zips are honestly not that important in the grand scheme of things.

    Anyways, I was directing my post at a tendency that I see around here—it wasn't really meant for you specifically (I said as much, and I didn't neg rep you or anything).


  8. 2 hours ago, AvantSol said:

    If a brand is foreign to you and you spent the time to make an account to go the sub thread for it; then maybe spend the time to lurk, read older pages, and use the search bar. There's years of useful information so it only benefits you to check it out. Plus the V26-A video on the mothersite is a good demo on certain jacket features ;)

    Just wanted to say this—and it’s not directed at you specifically, it’s more like a thing I’ve been seeing around the internet since I was really young:

    Forum search engines always suck. Always. And I’ve always found it to be the most bullshit thing to tell someone (especially someone new)—that they should “use the search engine.” The search engine sucks dude. Sufu’s search engine really sucks (at leases last time I used it)—clunky, buggy, slow.

    And in the end, how exactly would the guy above have searched for the answer to his question? It’s not like he knew he was searching for something called “escape zip.”

    Instead of bitching about how noobs should go back and read literally hundreds of pages of text (much of which is discussion of dead links—not the most interesting thing to do), maybe the complainers should put together a quick FAQ/intro to techwear, so they can point to something helpful (and really, does it actually take that much more time to type “escape zip” than it does to type “read the thread, use the search engine?”).


  9. 14 minutes ago, SuE said:

    which t-shirts, which pants? 10 years and their selection is still Ultrafine Tees and Slim Dungarees? What's the point of all these experiments? When the ramie is well stocked in the summer, the feral waffle in the winter, and the dreamweight all year round, then their basics would be worth pointing out.

    The runweight’s been in stock pretty consistently, the ramie is a summer piece, the slim dungarees, future works, strong dungarees, 60/30s, the new OG Leans and OG Classics... all there. Ultrafines too, obviously.

    You can see the experiments making their way into the main selection. The hard/co stuff most recently, which I think will mostly replace the double fine; and there’s the shell they tested last year. It’s not like they’re not working over there—it’s just that the experiments often only make it to beta. You’ll get a lot more data from user feedback than you’ll ever get from ~15 people in New York wearing your protos for a few months, so I don’t see it as a bad approach.

    I don’t tend to buy the exp stuff, but I guess I’m not a superfan.


  10. 29 minutes ago, SuE said:

     

    nah, Outlier has no solid selection and their basics are available seasonally at best. Their midlayers end up dumped in the WTF bins and all their outerwear are experiments. They are operating on a hype schedule now -- try to sell out everything in a minute, no stomach for holding stock -- with prices to match. I have no love for this approach.

    lol you’re salty dude.

    Their t-shirts and pants are usually pretty well-stocked these days—it used to be more of an issue.


  11. 13 minutes ago, GFNS said:

    Not sure if I've missed this (or if it was reported elsewhere) but the NG9-PS is sized Large (One Size) when utilizing AuxZip.

    Kind of bummed since I wanted a "perfect" fit into my XL J1A-GT but it'll do the job regardless.  It can be my secondary NG when using the J62-S open configuration.

    I'm confused—are auxzips sized differently depending on the size of the jacket? Does this mean that you won't be able to zip the NG9 into a size medium jacket?


  12. Outlier's most recent push into the techwear outerwear market:

    https://shop.outlier.nyc/shop/retail/experiment-118-prodigy-mutation.html

    https://shop.outlier.nyc/shop/retail/experiment-119-neomarine-longslash.html

    https://shop.outlier.nyc/shop/retail/experiment-120-duckcloth-slash-fortress.html

    I actually really appreciate the approach they've settled into: tons of transient experimental pieces, with a solid selection of basics that are available year-round.


  13. Weird question, but anyone ever found a way of putting mods on a 3a-1? Feel like in theory you could attach something to the belt loops on the bottom back of the bag...


  14. 1 minute ago, dtradish said:

    For those of you who own Graph sweaters - would you recommend them? I'm looking for a sweater and like merino, but am worried about its durability given its price. I wear sweaters a lot so I was wondering if anyone could give their experiences on these? 

    If you mean the pullover, I don't own one because I've always found the top opening really weirdly big. It doesn't work unless you have the right shoulders, from what I can tell.

    As for durability... it's merino, so if you're wearing a backpack or a sidebag, you'll likely experience pilling around the area where the straps make contact with the merino. I have three Graph Cardigans, and they all do this (though the shoulder panels help prevent this in the most obvious places).

    If I were in the market for a merino sweater, I'd look to Outlier's Hard/co pullover (and forthcoming hoodies). You get the durability of cotton on the outside, and the functionality of merino on the inside. Great stuff, and super cozy.


  15. So what's the point of the dangly bits on the P23s if people are wearing belts in all the product shots? Are they not meant to be used to tighten the waist?


  16. 17 minutes ago, fasttimes said:

    Nothing sold out. A couple of items never had stock, assuming they're coming in another drop later

    More interops?

    Without interops, I have no interest.


  17. 3 minutes ago, piece keeper said:

    Yeah, this is my experience too.  I had a pair of Voronois years back that ripped in the crotch after <6 months of wear in an office setting.  I requested a warranty replacement and they denied it at first, stating that AV is "more experimental" so their warranty actually doesn't cover as much for AV as it does with the mainline because they expect a degree of failure given its experimental nature.  Took several weeks of back and forth and escalation for them to finally give me store credit.  I think they've gotten better since then, but that left a bad taste in my mouth.

    My guy, those pants are a thorn in their side, I assure you. Serious problems with that design in general. No idea why it's still being made.

    That being said, in recent years they've tried to rein Veilance in a little bit. The designs these days are much more conservative. It's sad, in a way, because Arc'teryx should really have a "mad scientist" wing of their design studio. We're talking about some of the absolute best design and technology in the world of technical garments, and it seems like a waste to box that in. I'd love to see a "NikeLab" collaboration-style thing from Arc...


  18. 1 hour ago, upheavel said:

    I was talking about the main line not Veilance. The same idea applies to Veilance as well, people are buying it for the brand and the way it looks not because of its durability. You could pay 3x less and just get a Beta and it would last just as long as a Veilance shell. The same is true when my wife tries to tell me Channel and LV has "better" leather than Longchamp or Coach. Sure, the quality is slightly better but she is buying Channel and LV because of the brand and the way it looks, not because of the durability and how many pockets it has. 

    Horse dead or not, just wanted to weigh in here.

    Veilance is, if anything, less durable than mainline. Veilance actually uses older materials, like Tricot-backed Gore-Tex instead of Gore-Tex Pro, or regular old Coreloft over Coreloft Continuous. On top of that, you're not getting anywhere near the same level of articulation, the face fabrics are often less durable (and in some cases less efficient at shedding water, like with the Monitor Down TW from this most recent season). All of this is, I'm sure, justified by saying that these are pieces made for the city, and not for high-output activities... but it's still pretty lame that you're paying twice as much for something that's actually less versatile than a black Beta AR.


  19. 1 hour ago, Bigyen said:

    Just took my 47a out of the closet for the first time since the spring and I noticed the grid lining is becoming detached from membrane. Is there anything I can do about this? I wear this thing to death every winter. See pictures below.

     

    Screen Shot 2018-10-15 at 4.03.42 PM.png

    Delamination. This would normally be grounds for replacement, if there was a warranty. Arc has replaced a few of my shells over things like this (the other thing that tends to happen is the face fabric separates from the membrane, causing “bubbles” to form in the Gore-Tex.

    The best thing you can do to avoid this is to wash your jackets regularly—if you’re wearing it daily, wash it maybe once a month. Warm water, dryer on medium. Sweat and oils tends to be the cause—you see this happening most often around the back of the neck, the upper back, the mouth, and the armpits.


  20. 7 hours ago, eidolarr said:

    It's totally fair to be critical of Acronym using fabrics that damage easily, since their whole vibe is about function and mobility and durability. But when you say "fast fashion" you're comparing them to companies that are filling up landfills with shitty throwaway clothing, which is unfair imo.

    Fast fashion is about huge volume, low prices, low quality. Even the fragile Acronym pieces like the foil bags depreciate little and often make their way through three owners before being retired. And obviously Acronym is not high volume low price :) there's tons of well-made-but-not-durable clothing in menswear and high fashion all around, but you wouldn't compare that to Zara.

     

    I'm not saying ACR is fast fashion; I'm saying Errolson is often openly critical of fast fashion. That criticality often comes with the suggestion, explicit or implicit, that the mentality regarding consumption needs to change. That's all well and good—spend more on a jacket, get more life out of it, don't buy a new one every year, etc. But recent releases—especially the foil 3As—have made me question just how sincere that line of rhetoric is. You're telling me no one in the whole ACR crew noticed the shortcomings of that material? They could just made the damn bags out of Cordura, and they would last decades...

    5 hours ago, eidolarr said:

    Quality is not durability, and tbh i'm fine with Acronym doing a comparatively fragile piece in an experimental fabric now and then. It's not like they are switching everything to be polartec alpha, he's still releasing a heavy goretex jacket and xpac bags.

    1. source on polartec alpha not being durable?
    2. I'm not clear on how that white jacket could be polartec alpha, are you sure? It looks like alpha is a fleece kind of fabric, which is not the texture I'm seeing in the promo pics? At the very least it doesn't look like alpha is the outward facing layer which should improve durability quite a bit?

    We don't know for sure. Not sure what the initial source was on it being Polartec Alpha. However, look at this image, and compare it to the "honeycomb" shadows behind the ripstop fabric face on the jacket. I realize this is a lot of speculation about a jacket we'll have clear data on in a few days, but I'm just trying to be transparent about my thinking.

    As for the word on durability... I can't give you any explicit citations (which would require breaking NDA on research done in-house), but we're seeing a lot of studios move away from it pretty rapidly.

  • Nike Green Gyakusou Logo Running T-Shirt
    $US 55

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