Inkinsurgent

no doubt, sediment is a great colorway. too bad they didn't make anything i want in it. 

probably the most disappointing drop to date. not sure why we need three riffs on every base model and essentially no new models except for the range - which is just another IS offering. 

never understood e's obsession with stotz. it's no good in the rain, takes forever to dry, fades, tears and discolors like nobody's business, feels restrictive and doesn't breathe well. it's only redeeming quality is the nice suede-y surface patina it develops. 

https://imgur.com/gallery/J7q0wZX  SS21 preview stuff. A LOT of new silhouettes.

Gibson interview on acr in the guardian

6 hours ago, markdjr said:

Do I understand correctly that CH fabric has changed?  I have some of the CH shorts from years ago that kind of look like denim, I thought I'd read that new CH is thinner/lighter material?  Thanks for any info.

CH just stands for non-DS Schoeller textiles. The denim like melange nylon/cotton blend textile is called Schoeller Shape. 

i was thinking of the grey melange version which at the time sat on the mothersite for a good bit alongside some of the P14's. sadly my budget looked a bit different at the time. 

i prefer the pre-2016 acr aesthetic in general. like you say, more wearable.

ill be honest with you guys i was kinda hoping a p10-ch would show up in there.

i think it also depends on what you get out of a piece - the rush of gratification of buying something new and shiny which wears off and leads to having to buy something new and shiny again, or the slow enjoyment of owning something you use every day for years on end. the divide between these two is especially big with acr where some people seem to buy multiple pieces with each drop to flaunt on instagram whereas some others walk around in an unravelling pair of P9's.

i don't own a lot of acr but i sure own a fuckton of veilance and i really like having these go-to pieces that have been with me for years and years and still give me this feeling of satisfaction when i get to put them on. 

9 hours ago, Flipflop214 said:

Anyways, hope Hanon has a 3rd drop.. fw1213 please (goat) 

12-14 was such a good run. all my acr and av grail pieces are from that period.

i'm surprised they have so much acr laying around still. this is my favourite acr period so definitely excited.

also pre-hype items tend not to sell well with the hype crowd for some reason.

the nyco voronois are garbage for all the above reasons but the all nylon voronois are my favourite pants. they are not as articulated as P10's but they fit great and their range of motion is fine.  

i think a lot of people on here, me included, follow your exploits on the 'gram these days. It's really inspiring to see how far you've come and how far you'll be going. Personally i'm just waiting for more xpac pouches! i've been using the shit out of them ever since i won the first set in a raffle and got some more off massdrop later on.

the problem (inasmuch you consider there to be one) is that pre-hype acr integrated into other styles whereas these days people seem to consider head to toe acr a style in itself.

long for the days of people rocking acr, stussy and visvim in one fit.

Yeah his own rationalisation isn't helping. I don't see what's so bad about going "i invested my life in this company, fashion is a fickle thing, make hay while the sun shines."

However: the price point they're at allows them certain affordances in construction that you otherwise wouldn't bother with. I think the acr aesthetic is very much about going beyond what other brands would see as a point of diminishing returns. There are small construction details even in a pair of P10 pants that really don't offer much from a practical perspective but very much emphasise what an ACR item projects. This is also a point where i feel Veilance and ACR diverged over the years: AV showcases their technical prowess through minimalism in features and construction, whereas ACR showcases theirs through maximalism. Maybe this is also what part of the "practical VS expensive" argument hinges on: regardless of whether you feel ACR features add actual purpose over more stripped down solutions, you can certainly see where the ideas, effort and innovation are applied. It really is more the fetishisation of purpose than actual purpose, and i mean that as a good thing.

Construction/raw material price/living wages all have exactly zero to do with why an ACR piece is three to four times more expensive than comparable items.

The market supports these prices and after years of being niche, ACR is hype and E is (rightfully) making bank.

1 hour ago, drgitlin said:

Oh yeah? Where is Centro Stile based? 

you tell me about an ambush? i ambush you with a cup of coffee! 

i'm guessing the pictures are generally of production samples because all photography needs to be finished by the time the main collection rolls out of the factory.

They carried acr for a while after Jörg left, but at some point there was a change in direction and both acr and veilance, two brands they really put on the map in the early days, got dropped off the roster. Just strange to see a known acr ripoff end up there.

Still one of my fav. places in berlin though. 

Not strictly acronym related news but culturally/historically significant: firmament berlin now stocks enfin leve. Interesting development considering their backstory with acr.

if acr moves to a "more access to staple items, fancy stuff over subnet" model that would be both business genius and incredibly annoying.

The regular J40S/CH was pretty dope too. 

My P10 is made in china but shipped from Czech republic.

have to say that the DS is the quintessential P10 material. My P10-CH's are super soft and comfy as fuck and from an aesthetic standpoint i loved the melange CH (in P14 though, not P10) but there's something about the drape and texture of DS that just fits the P10 pattern on a conceptual level.