Graytrain

So perfect @beautiful_FrEaK! I have a backlog of many Denime updates to share. Including an Orizzonti S506 that looks to be pretty new on its way to me now. 

Question, what info do you know about WWII editions back in the Orizzonti era? I have only seen a couple pop up here and there but rarely with enough pictures to understand the details. Are they just an XX with laurel leafs, olive bags an no coin pocket rivets or is it a different fit, pocket shape, etc? 

Well this is a question that is forever in loop in my mind. I have had love affairs with so many denims for so many reasons. Far fewer jeans (defined as the combination of not just denim but the construction, details, and fit) have I had love affairs with. I will always be searching for the “grail*” jean that hits all the points.

*in the ephemeral concept of unobtainable, but worthy goal of lifelong pursuit.

This is more info than is asked for but you gave me an itch with this question that I need to scratch.

Flathead Pioneer denim was my first Japanese denim. The blueberry fades are unlike anything I have ever seen. The vertical falling is just incredible. The texture and contrast are just a sight to behold. BUT I do not like that level of contrast on my body and fits. Looks a bit too much zoomed out from just appreciating the fabric.

Stevenson has the most amazing construction of all. The attention to detail, accuracy, and execution of single stitch is beyond what others do. Their denim has an amazing green cast with fades that make you work for them. Their fits are unbearable though.

Full Count in general has the most comfy denim around. And in my ethos of jean wearing, where I want to live in the jean, this makes the jean effortless. The fades of both the standard and the XX have the perfect amount of texture, pace of fade, to give everything you can ask for out of a jean, with a fit that is what I like for my body style (40s-50s with a low rise for my ever prominent muffin top).

Sugar Cane denim in general is under-praised.

The new age (last 10 years) ’47 denim is a quiet champion of vintage fades. Spectacular crinkle and marble, texture and irregularity, with a slow pace that gives a vintage, lower contrast but still high texture result. Phenomenal jean on all accounts.

I have several Mister Freedom pieces that use Okinawa and Edo ai and they are up there with the most amazing to witness denims. Textures and colors, fascinating to watch age and color but a bit much to wear.

Warehouse denim is the king of all, texturally. I have worn through several types, banner, old blues, newer 800s, with a variety of wash strategies (hot, hot&drier, cold only) and get magnificent results that I love to examine. But much like the pioneer denim, I love it all primarily for the material, not the way it looks on me. Fits are always okay, details are okay-to-good, just sometimes unexciting.

I have also tried so many more that aren’t worth expressing again: Cone, Orslow, Studio D’artisan, TCB, Evis No.2, and No.1.

But the ones that have totally stolen my attention:

Denime XX. It took me a long time to come around to Denime. They just seemed uninteresting coming from a world of forever iterating new-wave Japanese brands. But I started to take an interest in the Old Osaka 5 (hence the Evis ref), and I came to finding some Orizzonti era Denime. Not only is the fit spot on for my likes but the denim gives me just enough of everything I have loved from Pioneer denim blues and ease of fade, a dash of Warehouse crinkles with the vintagey-ness of sugar cane. I haven’t faded a pair all the way out yet but as a “jean” this might be it.

So my top spot would be Denime WWII - Orizzonti era. As I love WWII details and silhouettes, this would likely be my end-all.

Sugar Cane M-series denims. Perhaps an unlikely choice, but in exploring old-era Japanese jeans, the early 90s, no patch Sugar Cane jeans blew me away with their denim. Some of it on the lighter side, the texture, crinkle and gray caste give such an amazing vintage look. Being lighter is refreshing coming from the heavier weights that are standard in new era. The fits are unlike anything else and ignore common wants for tapers. I am forever on the lookout for a M41001 with laurel leaf buttons and Levi-esque archs in a good size that would give that straight-through-the-hips and stovepipe leg look.

The same goes for their jackets (although I know this isn't about that). Their WWII S506XX from that era, (of which I have like 4 of…) fades so well, wears so lightly, and has the short, blocky fit that is hard to find nowadays. Perfect, no-nonsense jeans and repros. That is what I am finding my heart leans towards these days.

But even at the end of the day, I will always come back to a pair of Full Count 13.7ozers when I am not wearing a jean for a purpose other than to wear a trusted sidekick for yardwork, hardwork, kicking around or otherwise laziness in outfit choice. So what does that say about that jean?

Sadly the patch isn't going to make it. Jerky would be a kind description. 

Perhaps THE item that got me interested in "historical" Japan repro was this jacket. I have been looking for one ever since. My second hand grail for many years. The bullshipper 10th anni 2001

On 1/17/2023 at 5:05 AM, Broark said:

Pricey listing but I thought these were cool, deadstock M41101.
Yahoo link for anyone that might interested, w36: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n1078635730

 

These are so dope. just too many damn jeans to ever justify. 

2 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Thanks!

There is currently one pair of 66 in W34 from Orizzonti era on Yahoo Auction. It has been worn a bit but is still fairly dark. 9,000¥ is the price. Maybe you can track them down and see if they are worth it to you.

Ha! I have been looking at them daily and considering. Optimally I would like a bit less worn and I am not exactly hurting for another pair right now lol. 

And yeah I agree with your previous point. The second hand market is pretty hot right now. Way more goodies more often than I remember ever seeing. 

Looks perfect @beautiful_FrEaK

I am also on a hunt for a size 34 pair of orizzonti 66s. I have that 36 pair that is more anti-fit and I am curious to see the real fit. I love the 66 denim, very soft, almost fullcount levels of comfort. 

Another oddity I found on these was on the arc on one of the back pockets. It is double sewn in two spots, looking as if it was done maybe as a custom job and definitely by hand. 

Ah I am sensing some of the drama around this. Sounds like the year long waiting list I had access to a couple years back (that I thought was crazy enough) would have been the path of least resistance. Lol

On 9/22/2022 at 3:52 AM, Dr_Heech said:

But l have to agree with @Flash, for me (pattern  cutting and sizing issues aside) the CSF WW2 stuff is still head snd shoulders above any other WW2 repro stuff l've handled. Still have some Cone Lvc 1944's but they dont come close imo.

 

WW2 repro still is and probably forever will be my favorite "type" of garment. From details, fit, to denim. It just has so much soul to it, with so many wonky details to get into and the grainy gray caste denims that are so good. I have been dying to try as CSF pair for several years but am confused and slightly turned off by the accessibility problem. I'm not opposed to paying second-hand prices (which seem to be $1k+) But even still I can't find my way to snagging a pair. From what I have seen, they sure seem like the end-all pair for my neurotic perfection quests.

And yeah Nils, the rise on the TCBs is comical but otherwise, I have really enjoyed them. 

Thanks Chicote! 

I'll get a fit pic up soon as well. I love this fit. Straight down from the hip. 

I acquired an interesting pair of M41001. My previous pair are some of the early non-laurel button version but I am a sucker for wartime details so I was looking for a pair with them as well. I came across these with details I hadn't seen anywhere. Levi's arcs with an unbranded tab. 

Woops

For ease of comparison 66XX:

I think the 66XX still has a bunch of shrink in them and I don't like to put too much wear on a fit that's going to change so I chucked them in the wash for a hot cycle. Pray for my muffin top. 

While I wait I put on the Orrizonti 66s. The comparison is wild. I really love this fit. It's like a low rise 40s fit. Denim is so much softer as well. Completely different jean in look, fit and feel. 

Both are w36

It's funny because I always thought Evisu were soulless. Until I began looking at the older stuff. The details on these 2501 are wild. Sturdy with so much attention to detail. And now that I have a few pair, you can see the life in the ever changing fits between jeans as they evolved the shape. 

I'm just dying to get my hands on old No. 1 denim to see how it compares. I like character, wrinkle and pucker in my denim and there isn't much in no2. Admittedly I haven't worn it out yet so could be surprising. 

Okay admittedly I have a problem. 

But as part of my seemingly never ending search for some early days Evis 2501 No. 1s, I came across this pair of water Buffalo patch 2501 no. 2 in great shape and couldn't pass up. It's interesting to see how much the 2501 fit changes between the later gens and this early example. Straight as straight can be with that good ol' hip flair. The denim also has this wild brown hue to it, almost like unbleached cotton. 

2 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Hundredbuyers are vintage dealers, the same as Berberjin or Marvins.

I think they solely hire professional  thrifters/pickers to go to various estate sales and barn/house clearances. Where these are advertised is a mystery however (?)

 

How interesting. It's so wild to see a regular supply of these pieces of history. 

Those are unreal. I agree here, the fade is very similar to cuff fades I have. I wouldn't ever guess that just simply covering an area would prevent so much fade. I think it just shows that exposure fade is more impactful than we think. 

I've always wondered, how do you get your hands on a pair of vintage jeans like this privately? Are there dealers or is it all auction based? 

And also my favorite pocket shapes of all time. Best character with wonky stitching and fading threads.