gazeboarder

what he said. i got an inch after a couple of hot soaks on some 3109's.

I have both the 2109's and the 3109's in a size 36 and could not get more than 0.75 in the waist.  I hot soaked both of them twice and then even through the 2109's in the dryer for a quick tumble to get them to shrink more.  From my experience with these two pairs I find Strike Gold denim does not shrink as much as other brands.  Maybe it's my pairs but that's what I found.  Love both of them and feel the 3109's stay pretty rigid for a while even after a first wash.

Could always consider the 555-02 - then it's just down to cut? 

For larger size waists I prefer the 555-01.  I have a pair of the 666 UHR in a size 36 and find the leg opening to be a little bulky.  I personally prefer a hem measurement in the 8.0 to 8.5 range but as most people will tell you the fit in the thigh area is most important.

Here's my latest list.  Don't tell my wife.

Oni Denim Oni-527ZR

Oni Denim Oni-527OR (green)

Iron Heart 9301

Iron Heart 7301

Iron Heart 301

Iron Heart SEXIH07BK

Iron Heart 555-01

Iron Heart 555-03

Iron Heart 666-UHR

Strike Gold 2109

Strike Gold 3109

Pure Blue Japan XX-005

Pure Blue Japan XX-017

Samurai S710BK Black Shadow

Samurai S710XX 15oz 2ND (2ND collab jean )

Samurai S001JP

Samurai S5000BK

The Flat Head SE05BSP

Fullcount B2014 (Bears Collab jean)

Stevenson Overall C0 727R

Ande Whall Slackers

Ande Whall SR09 Caribou

Momotaro ER007-2B

3 Sixteen ST210

Sugarcane Slack Denim SC40601

Somet 018BK

For anyone looking at the IH-666-UHR in larger sizes.  I wear size 36 in all my iron Heart jeans.  This includes the 555-01, 555-03, 301, 7301 and the 9301's.  I purchased a size 36 from Self Edge in the IH-666-UHR and found the following measurements.

Pre-soak (wow these are stiff)

waist - 36.3

inseam - 36.5

rise - 11.1

leg opening - 9.0

After two 1 hour soaks in very hot bath tub water

waist - 35.25

inseam - 35.5

rise - 10.9

leg opening - 8.5

knee - 9.15

These were very difficult to button but once you get them on they do start to soften and loosen.  With two very short wears I've already been able to straight the waist back out to a comfortable fit.  I think the back rise measurement helps with this.  These are awesome and definitely have a different feel and hue compared to my 555-01's.  I would consider these slim but not overly tight and definitely more roomy than the 555-01's in the lower leg.

Will you guys be carrying the Iron Heart IH-666-UHR's?  Thanks

Does anyone have any comparison photos of the unsanforized denim used on the new IH-666-UHR's and the normal 21oz denim Iron Heart uses on the 555-01's?  I ask because the photos on the Iron Heart site makes the UHR denim look more royal blue then the usual super dark midnight blue.  Thanks

What do you think about tapering 710s from the knee down? My friend is convinced my jeans need to be tapered a bit more.

Going to take them to Schaeffers Garment Hotel tomorrow but wanted to know what y'all thought - anyone done this before ?

I personally like the cut of the 710 as is.  It's a good middle fit (not too tight and not too baggy).  I find the 710 looks good with some shoes (boots) and my other tapered cut jeans look better with other shoe types.  If you really want a more tapered fit I'd suggest buying a more tapered cut from another brand.  Pure Blue Japan and Strike Gold have some nice ones.  Altering a great cut like the 710 just sounds wrong to me but there your jeans so you need to make the final call.

Nope, thats what the jeans measured when we measured the last run.  If you notice the rest of the sizes the ST is slimmer and has a smaller leg opening than the SL.

Okay but is that a stitching tolerance issue?  Do manufacturers have a +/- tolerance for certain measurements?  Maybe your order of ST cut's were on the high side of the tolerance?

By the way the size 32 ST has a thigh measurement of 11.5 and a leg opening of 8.0.  The bigger straight leg cut SL in a size 32 has a 11.5 thigh and a 7.7 leg opening?

Hi are the measurements of the 3sixteen shadow selvedge denim reversed on your site?  The ST-120x - Slim tapered shows a thigh measurement of 13.0 and a leg opening of 9.0 on a size 36.  The SL-120x Straight leg shows a thigh measurement of 13.0 and a the leg opening at 8.6 for a size 36?  When I look at other sites that carry these models the ST-120x is a tighter fit with a smaller thigh measurement and a smaller leg opening when compared to the SL-120x.

Thanks

Nice one! Looking fwd to seeing some fit pics havok.  would love to know how the 5109 feels when worn, compared to the 1109 or 3109 fabric.

My guess would be they initially feel very stiff.  My 3109's took a while to soften so I'm sure the 5109's are the same but made even stiffer.

Bought this Momotaro 8oz. Selvedge Jail Pocket Shirt in size 46 from Okayama Denim.  I normally wear XL size shirts in most American brands and wear XXL or XXXL Iron Heart Shirts.  The fit of this size 46 is perfect.  Slim but not overly tight with a good vertical length.  I'm 6'3" so I often have issues with shirt back lengths from Japanese denim brands.

The 9301's were made of a 22oz non selvedge denim with black weft and warp. My pair fit great but were very stiff. They do not really fade. The 8301's are made with the 21oz super black fades to gray denim. This denim is selvedge but does not have the visible selvedge seam. If you want the visible selvedge on the SBG denim you need to get the IH-555-03. This cut is similar to the 8301 with a slightly longer rise and a tighter fit in the hips. I have both the 9301's and the 555-03's and they are both great jeans. Hope you get what you were looking for.

this jeans is amazing. let's go straight to its fabric.

it is totally different with the rest 3 denims (11xx, 21xx, 31xx), this one is not as rigid as those 3 denims as the weave is not too tight. But i don't know what will happen after soaking. furthermore, i really love the short slub on them, maybe you love it too! I compared it with my 3 oni denims which are famous by the slubbiness, i tought they're quite similar, but 51xx has their own slubby style.. i'm sure this one will age uniquely.

So are they slubby like your typical Pure Blue Japan's?  I've heard in the past both brands were made at the same factory.

I have the SG 3109's in a size 36.  I've hot soaked these in a tub for about 40 minutes 3 separate times.  After all this I feel:

#1 - This denim does not shrink very much.(not sure why?)

#2 - This denim is very stiff.  One of the stiffest pair of jeans I own.

#3 - This denim really bleeds.  At the end of the day my hands have a blue tint 

Has anyone else had this experience with the 3109 denim?

Any thoughts why some denim just doesn't shrink well with hot soaks?  My 2109's did the same thing. 

I like these jeans and the fit is great.

Thank you! I'll probably run off of the assumption that GTB doesn't differ as far as fit goes. Anyone know if there's any difference other than the stripes?

I have the red one with the stripes in a 46.  I tried the purple one without the stripes in a 46 as well and the fit was smaller.  So at least for the red color the one with the stripes has a bigger fit (longer length, a little more room in the chest).

Anyone have experience with the 18oz 666s vs the SExIH 301? I'm tempted by the new SE drop this weekend, but I've already got the Devils.

 

I find the waist in the Devils a bit big (sz 36) and the thighs a bit small.

 

Thanks,

 

Lorrie

I have the 301's, 7301's and the 9301's in size 36.  I have plenty of room in the thighs and have a little extra space on the side of my hips.  The waist fits a little on the roomy side after multiple days but is comfortable.  I'm 6'3" 195 lbs and mtn bike a ton in the summers.  I find a thigh measurement in the 12.8 to 13.3 range works the best for me.  One thing to remember is the new collab is unsanforized so they will fit smaller than the jeans I describe above.

Yes, we worked with IH to tweak the pattern of the legs so that the fit is nearly identical to the original 301s but the outer seam retained the selvedge ID.

This collab looks great.

It would be cool if you guys did that to all of the 301's outer seams.

Also besides the weight how do you think this denim compares to the Strike Gold 3109 denim?  The description sounds somewhat similar.

seeing all these pictures and i am sure my next pair must be strike gold. if only i didn't already have more than a few pairs in my rotation now i'd definitely get one. could anybody weight their opinion on 2109 vs 3109? which one is more characterful/interesting in your opinion? 

I have both the 2109's and the 3109's.  Both look really nice.  Both have nice detail and nice deep pocket bags.  The non white weft threads give both a unique look.  The 3109's though were very rigid to start.  So at least in my experience the 3109's took more time to break in.  You can't go wrong with either one.

I'll be in Tokyo in 4 weeks. I'll only be in town for a minute but would love to grab a pair of jeans while I'm there so any jean shop recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Back in 2012 Paul_T did a little denim tour-guide for Tokyo on his blog. It gives you plenty of choices. Here's the blog: http://loomstate.co.uk/

You could also go to Bears in Shimokitizawa.  It's a short train ride from Shibuya.  I was there a few weeks ago and picked up a pair of the Fullcount x Bears jean.  They had a decent selection of Fullcount, Samurai, and Momotaro.  The shop was easy to find using the directions from previous posts on Superfuture.  There is also a Momotaro store at AO Bld 2F, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 107-0061, Japan

Which is walking distance from Omotesando Hills and the general Harajuku area.  It's on the 2nd floor of a shopping center.  You can see a map of it on their Japanese website.  It was about a 10 minute walk from the Visvim store in Harajuku.  Have fun.

The 633 (tapered 634s) is being released with the 301s and jacket on January 25th.

 

 

The cuts are fairly similar, i'd say the main difference is how abrasive the denim on the SEXI14 is because of the engineered loom chatter within the denim.  

I think you should look at the 21BSP from 3sixteen+, SE05BSP from Flat Head, or 301s from Iron Heart as your next jean.

Hey Kiya,

What is the latest on the Iron Heart 633's?

Thanks

Hey guys,

 

Does this look like a defect or just some typical denim irregularity?  Let me know your opinion.  Thanks

 

 

Hey Everyone as a follow up to this post the guys at Klax-on replaced my pair of 3109's with a new pair.  I picked them up last week in Japan.  I put them through two hot soaks.  As you can see from the photo below these come out very rigid after a day of drying.

Post soak measurements

SG 3109's

Size 36

Waist = 37.5

Front rise = 10.9

Back rise = 14.5

Thigh = 12.8

Leg opening = 8.5

Inseam = 36.4

Update with the latest trades and purchases:

Dry Bones

CDP-555 W32 - Guitar Wolf

Eight-G

804-XX W32

Eternal - エターナル

872 W32

877 W30

54727 W32

FullCount

1101NA W31

1108XX W32

1922 W31

Iron Heart (IH)/Triple W

IH-634S W33

IH-803 W32

Iron Heart (IH)/Take5

IHT510 W32 - basically a IH-634S

Kapital

TH Zipang W32

Kicking Mule Workshop

1950 AWA W32

Oni - 鬼デニム

ONI-0211 W32

ONI - Awa Shoai (BiG 1st model) W31

Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)

AI-002 W32

XX-007 W32

XX-010 W32

Pure Blue Japan (PBJ)/Take5

TPJ-510 W32 - basically a XX-005

Real McCoy

Lot.001 W30

Lot.003 W31

S613 W32

Joe McCoy

901 W31

Toys McCoy

Lot.135D W33 - TMP1209T5

Red Cloud

S400 W31

R424XX W32 - 1st Edition

R424XX W31 - 2nd Edition

R424XX W32 - 2013 Edition - on order...

5500-A W32 - Worker Pants

MIL-T l838D Medium - Army Pants

R by 45RPM

Nando x Nando W32

Rising Sun Jeans

Blacksmith W32

R.J.B. (Real Japan Blues)

D105S-10FW W31

The Flat Head (TFH)

TFH 3005-A W32

TFH 3005 W32

The Flat Head (TFH)/R.J.B./Take5

TR-010 W31 - basically, a TFH 3009 in RJB denim

SAMURAI JEANS - サムライジーンズ

S001JP W32

S001JP-F W32

S001JP-H W32

S0110XJ W32

S0130XJ W32

S0210XJ W32

S0500XX-15TH W32

S0510AI-OGSP W32

S0510CO W32 - Corduroy Pants

S5000-KA W33

S5000AI-10SP W34

S5000AI-OGSP W32

S5000BKB W32

S5000GX-S W32

S5000GX-T W32

S5000VX 17oz. W32

S5000VX-15TH 17oz. W32

S526VX-L-15th W32

SJ42CP W34 - Chinos

Studio D'Artisan (SDA) - ダルãƒã‚¶ãƒ³

SD-D01 W32

SD-SP-06 W32

SD-103XX W32

SD-1537 W34 - Army Pants

SD-X's 31 W32 - Black Pig

Studio D'Artisan (SDA)/Take5

TAKE5-010 W33

Sugar Cane (SC) - シュガーケーン

SC40105A W31

SC40285 W32

SC40302A-337 W31

SC40302A-342 W31

SC40382A W33

SC40400 W31

SC40500 W31

SC40510H W32 - Begin

SC40701 W32

Tender Co.

Type 132 W32

Warehouse/Heller's Cafe/Lee Archive

HC-035 W31

Lee x Warehouse 101 Cowboy "triple name"W32

Still need to hunt down a few SugarCane styles before I can focus my attention on SDA...

Interesting that you have that many Samurai jeans but you don't own a pair of the 710's 

Also you have a bunch of the Take 5 collabs.  I go to China two to three times a year.  The Take 5 shop in Hong Kong is great.

My current collection

Iron Heart 301

Iron Heart 9301

Iron Heart 7301

Iron Heart SEXIH 07BK

Iron Heart 555-03

Iron Heart 555-01

Samurai S001 JP Yamato

Samurai S510 x 2nd Collab (710 cut in 15 oz denim)

Samurai S5000BK

Samurai S710 BK Black Shadow

Pure Blue Japan XX-007

Pure Blue Japan XX-017

Flat Head SE05BSP

Stevenson 727

Strike Gold 2109

Strike Gold 3109

Momotaro ER007-2B

Fullcount B2014 (Fullcount x Bears collab (1108 fit)

Ande Whall Slacker (Okayama denim)

Sugarcane SC40601 (slack denim)

3Sixteen ST-210

I was looking into a pair of 301s.

My 301's stretched in the waist.  The top block on these at least in the larger sizes (36) is roomy.  I feel a little extra space along the side of my hips in the 301's.  Overall the fit is great.

How are the prices in Son of a Stag these days? Always felt they were eye-watering before despite a decent range of stock.

They look on the high side. Compare their price on the ONI 527 with BIG in NYC and you'll see what I mean. Duty into the UK maybe the reason???