Danny @ Rivet & Hide
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Posts posted by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
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Last week we released the Dawson Denim x Rivet & Hide custom slim tapered fit using a 14.25 oz Japanese sanforized selvedge denim.
This is the first slim tapered cut from Dawson utilizing all their know how, skill, passion, vintage machines and some requests and contributions from our end! We really couldn’t be happier with the result. A smart silhouette is complemented by the subtle detailing that Dawson are so well known for – stone coloured core spun thread for the stitching, copper branded rivets and washers, two prong nail fly buttons and a selvedge fly. This is all topped off with a chrome leather patch hand branded with the Dawson Denim and Rivet and Hide logos.
Shop Dawson Denim x Rivet & Hide Slim Tapered jeans
Along with a full size restock of the Colour 8 CXL Service Boot, Boondockers in both leather & Dainite soles we have a brand new arrival from Viberg which looks set to quickly earn its place with aficionados of the brand or indeed anyone with an interest in high quality footwear.
Adopting the 1035 last (slightly rounder toe box with a little more width through the sole in comparison with the 2030 last), this is a Derby, based on a traditional English hunting boot, in a beautiful Aged Bark rough out leather. Using a Goodyear natural flat welt construction and featuring a partially structured toe, the 6-inch pattern used is slightly taller than the Service Boot and utilizes an interlocking eyestay with a 360 degree vamp for increased waterproofing. The tongue is flipped – smooth on the outside and rough out inside creating a subtle but appealing contrast.
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Hey guys, question on the XX-003 jeans. I'm considering my first pair of PBJ, and it looks like these are the best fit for me. Need a pretty high rise, and room in the thighs. I may or may no get them tapered, depending on what they look like on me.
Does anyone know of plans for PBJ to come out with this cut in the newer 18z. denim? I love the look of that one. Any overall opinions on the standard 14oz. vs. the 18oz.?
I have not heard of any plans as yet for an xx-18oz-003. The 18 oz denim is a dialled up version of the 14 oz. The extra weight makes it feel even slubbier but the characteristics (weave/dye) are basically the same.
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Pure Blue Japan uses natural indigo harvested in the Tokushima prefecture of Japan to hand dye the 13.5 oz slim tapered AI13-TSM jeans.
Tokushima indigo is protected under Japanese law as a part of the country's cultural heritage and only a handful of craftsmen and women are certified to work with it. The indigo plant leaves used to produce this precious "Awa-ai" dye are first dried and fermented then mixed with lye and other components in the vats. This is all done by hand, a slow and laborious process, but the results are exquisite.
The combination of this unique technique and PBJ's textured denim results in a jean that is imbued with indigo like no other. It's a slow release fade and all the more beautiful for it.
Shop PBJ AI13-TSM Hand-Dyed Tokushima Indigo Slim Tapered jeans
The KS-013 is a new denim from Pure Blue Japan known as "knubbed" selvedge and it literally blew us away when we first saw it in Japan. It has a super irregular weave that results in a highly textured denim that fades with striking contrast. Several shades of indigo are used in the rope-dyeing process which serves to underscore the amazing character of the fabric itself. 16 oz denim is a perfect weight for those who want to dial up from a typical 13-14 oz mid weight denim without venturing into the realms of the super heavy 20 oz offerings. There would be no better way of doing so than with the KS-013.
We have also restocked the slim straight X005 jean in Pure Blue Japan's signature 14 oz denim along with the short sleeve and long sleeve indigo Henleys.
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The Hawley shirt from Indigofera is made using the softest, most velvety suede you can imagine but with weight, heft and solidity.
The term ‘buttery soft’ is bandied about a lot with regards to leather and suede but this material truly justifies the description. It has style. Western cut – subtle, not overly ‘cowboy’.The collars, cuffs, placket and upper back are lined with super smooth black satin.
The shirt features black snap closures.
Shop Indigofera Hawley Suede Shirt
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Are the jeans we've been talking about just the new flagship denim for RJB? The LHT zimbabwe?
Obviously not the same denim but has the same vibe as all of flat heads denims! I def need some zimbabwe in my life.
Yes this is the RJB flagship denim that was introduced at the end of 2014. LHT Zimbabwe cotton.
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We are saying Sayonara to some additional items found on our specials page.
We have included quite a few iterations of the the remarkable Flat Head THC T shirts where we only a few sizes left.
We don't add to the Sayonara page very often but when we do we offer a substantial saving.
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Is the RJB denim the same as the FH pioneer denim?
No, totally different. The denim has a deep blue hue. Washed occasionally it fades with very high contrast. RJB uses Zimbabwe cotton for its denim.
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How exciting! Hope you guys ship to Aus.
Will you use a custom denim, or one of their standard fabrics?
We ship jeans to Australia in 3 days.
It is the RJB standard 14 oz denim using Zimbabwe cotton
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I really liked the look of those jeans, but didn't buy them because customs charges would have been too much.
I wonder if one day Rivet & Hide will do a collab with TFH
We will release a collaboration with Real Japan Blues (sister company to The Flat Head) around September. It is slim tapered and mid-rise based on the FH 3002 fit but with a stronger knee to hem taper. Indigo pocket arcuates.
Real Japan Blues denim is unique and pretty amazing. The collaboration aims to bring it to our customers in a fit and style they will appreciate.
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The new UES indigo dyed chore coat/jacket in a 60% cotton 40% linen mix. This deep indigo fabric is full of character and is all but guaranteed to age and fade beautifully. These buttons can also be removed or swapped as they are attached with wire loops to the rear. Includes two outside pockets to the lower front and one large inside pocket top right.
Shop UES Denim/Linen Work Jacket
The 400T jeans have been restocked in all sizes. Constructed from 14.9oz of Zimbabwe cotton, these jeans are renowned for both their vintage fade potential and for having the ideal cut for anyone in need of a little extra room through the thigh whilst maintaining a decent taper for a trim, modern silhouette. This faded pair has been worn by a customer of ours for around 10 months.See more faded jeans in the Fade Archive on the website http://rivetandhide.com/fade-archive
Shop UES 400T Straight Tapered Jeans
Also available, new bandanas. Available in red or blue with a geometric print and at 67cm x 67cm, these are a cut above your usual bandana. Ideal for use as a neckerchief or head scarf, or even wrapping up your beach essentials for your trip to the shore.
Also restocked are the work caps in denim or chambray, the perfect complement to a beach or sunny day outfit.
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New in from the purveyors of understated, quality, styling, UES have delivered some great pieces in time for the summer.
Firstly, the Ramayana crew neck T shirt – white or black. With a right hand chest pocket these are an easy ‘go to’ staple, either to be worn as a standalone on a sunny day or as a layering piece under a shirt. Just the right side of heavyweight for the warmer weather, these 100% cotton T’s feel sturdy whilst keeping a super soft hand. Add to that the impeccable fit that UES are renowned for and you have a great, no nonsense classic T.
For holidays and other occasions where it is just TOO hot for jeans (We don't recommend such climes) UES have provided a great alternative in the form of their green/indigo/mustard plaid shorts. Neatly avoiding the budgie smuggler vs nu-metal mid shin length extremes, UES have cut these to sit just above the knee making them the ideal choice to go from beach to bar to town. The button fly is fully concealed (including top button) behind the placket, and the rear has both a cinch back and ‘notch’ in the middle of the waistband to provide a comfortable and fitted shape.
With two hand pockets at the side seams, two rear pockets (buttoned) and a front coin pocket (also buttoned) they also provided plenty of safe places to carry any valuables when wearing less clothing. Perfectly thought out, designed and executed.
The UES chambray shorts are equally as good. They come with zip fly, cinch-back and 5 pockets. Particular standout details are the "Boro" linings for both waistband and pockets.
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Here are the images of how the Stevenson Overall Dixon 310 fit. Close up details in the previous post.
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Dixon 310 Straight Fit Cinch Back Jeans
Loopwheeled T Shirt - Indigo -Chest Pocket
Loopwheeled T shirt - White Blue Logo
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New arrivals from Stevenson Overall Co include shirt jackets, jeans, shirts and accessories.
You can always count on this brand to deliver a stunning shirt to get you in the mood for summer and the Indigo Flower is no exception.
The yarns used to make this custom fabric were spun on a vintage 1940s machine that gives it a natural uneven texture and two different ways of printing were used to achieve the deep indigo tone. The shirt features coconut buttons.
The Wheeler is a light weight shirt jacket that comes in 2 fabrics. One is a 100% cotton 11.5 oz deep indigo and the other a vintage style sateen cotton fabric of similar weight. The jacket features front pleats overlapped by the western style chest pockets with snap closures. The jacket also has a central pleat on the back.
The Dixon 310 straight fit cinch back jean is new to the store and contains some truly impressive construction details. This includes a combination of lock stitching and narrow width flat felled seams. Instead of the contemporary bar tack stitching, the pockets are reinforced with decorative stitch work. The denim is sanforized and 13.5 oz in weight.
Slim fitting loopwheeled T shirts come in a white body and blue logo print or indigo dyed with chest pocket.
New large bandanas come with a classic in red or indigo. The Tube socks are made from a slub yarn linen to provide a comfortable and breathable fit.
Indigo Flower Shirt
Wheeler Jacket - Indigo
Wheeler Jacket - Black
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Result is out right? UK is out of EU?
It is not immediate. It will take a few years. We don't exit overnight.
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Tomorrow the UK faces a huge decision of whether to remain or leave the European Union.
I am laying the cards on the table here as a small business. Leaving the EU would have a hugely negative impact on us. Rivet & Hide is definitely stronger in Europe. We need to stay in the single market with 500 million of our European friends.
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It's encouraging to see so much open support for R&H, Self Edge and other such like stores bringing the best Japanese denim brands to its corner of the world. We get quite a few customers who dream of owning a business like this (if only to house their enormous collection of jeans). However, it's a labour of love and bloody hard with so many challenges along the way our customers never see.
In the UK we have a referendum in the coming week on whether we remain in the EU the result of which will have a huge impact on whether we can continue to grow and survive in an increasingly competitive market. Exchange rates/tariffs/taxes/shipping costs are daily worries. The margins are small compared with high street stores. It's not a get rich quick business. So when a customer gets an email from me saying thank you it is genuine. Each sale helps pay a bill waiting to be paid.
Most of the brands mentioned here understand that their growth outside of Japan is due to the hard work done and risks taken by their overseas retailers and many of them want to nurture that. They don't want to see these stores fail.
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We have a small restock of the Iron Heart IHSH-99 17 oz overdyed indigo selvedge denim shirt.
This is the final run of these shirts having used up all of the available fabric in Japan.
The over-dyeing process shrinks the shirts by one size so you would size up from your normal Iron Heart sizing. Sizes currently available are L, XL and XXXL
This is a western style shirt with hand warming side pockets. The one in the image below has been worn for 6 months.
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3sixteen today releases its leather jacket collaboration with fellow New York based outerwear company Schott NYC. The understated and urban design sensibilities of 3sixteen coupled with Schott's extensive heritage and expertise in leather has yielded a clean minimalist double rider jacket.
The jacket is made of premium naked cowhide, a leather with a slight sheen and supple hand that will age beautifully. Unlike traditional finished leather that has a rigid
shiny topcoat, naked cowhide has no finish and open pores, resulting in a softer feel and an easier break-in period. It is guaranteed to wear in beautifully over its lifetime.
The jacket’s silhouette is a modernized, slim fit version of the classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket. With its slightly lengthened body and slimmer arms, the jacket has a fashion-forward fit that is equally at home in both casual and riding functions.
Additionally, eliminating the belt and the epaulet star on the classic Perfecto and employing matte black hardware for all zippers and snaps yields a monochromatic, easy-to-wear look.
The jacket is lined with raw Japanese selvedge chambray fabric and features a Good Art sterling silver snap.
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The Iron Heart Ultra Heavy Flannel is now available in the classic blue/black Buffalo check colourway.
The flannel has a richness and depth of colour that really delighted us when we opened the box. The super soft Aspero cotton responds extremely well to the dyeing processes back in Okayama.
It might be summer in the northern hemisphere but this is a shirt for life so don't miss out if this colour combination is what you've been waiting for.
We also restocked the 555-03 super slim and super black 21 oz jeans.
Shop Iron Heart Ultra Heavy Blue Black Buffalo Check Flannel
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PBJ recently doubled its capacity because it has access to another Toyoda loom and a craftsman who does have the skill and knowledge to calibrate the loom to weave fabrics with PBJ's denim's unique characteristics. It took Kenichi Iwaya a long time to get this in place as he is so fastidious about the fabrics he makes. There were 2 year gaps between some denim runs and now we are seeing some lines run twice a year. Last week in Tokyo I saw a couple of brands we don't carry (no names) attempting to imitate PBJ and they don't even come close.
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Whatever the time of year we are always happy to receive a new Flat Head heavy flannel. Here in the UK they work particularly well on summer evenings worn open with a T shirt. The HNW-64w has an intricate pattern woven on a vintage shuttle loom. It is brushed on the inside so is ultra soft and comfortable to wear. It comes with mother of pearl snap closures.
Shop The Flat Head HNW-64w Heavy Flannel
The latest heavyweight printed THC T shirt landed with the flannel. The Flying Dagger has a black body with muted gold print. The T shirts have triple stitched collars. We say it every time; they are indestructible. This is a T shirt you can wash and wear for 10 years or more and it will still keep its shape.
Shop The Flat Head Flying Dagger Heavyweight T Shirt
The current iteration of The Flat Head Horsehide Cafe Racer has been restocked in size 42 only. This is the final batch of this incredible leather
Shop The Flat Head Horsehide Cafe Racer
We have also restocked 3sixteen jeans and shadow selvedge and double black Trucker jackets
Along with Iron Heart 555-01 super slim jeans in the signature 21 oz denim
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After a 2 year gap the Pure Blue Japan X020 Pop Up Cobalt Blue jeans have been restocked. These were hugely popular when they first launched in 2014.
They come in the slim tapered fit. The weft is first dyed cobalt blue just like the x017 and x018 (If you are unfamiliar with this denim see post 1002 on this page) After the cobalt blue dyeing process the weft is then rope-dyed indigo. Hence the pop up cobalt blue which comes through the indigo as the denim fades.
The jeans have tonal stitching apart from the cobalt blue accent stitch on the hip and chain stitched hem. It makes them pretty dressy to start with but you can beat them up and get some pretty high contrast fades.
I have added images of a pair belonging to a Andy who has given his pair 5 full months of wear.
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Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info
in superdenim
Posted · Edited by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
The icing on the cake must have been the 90 year old playing as the organ rose up majestically from beneath the stage. He introduced a film I saw there back in the 1990s. That's what you call high camp.