CrashTestBrummie

^ Summat like that, yeah.

Looks like Selfridges are stocking Evisu again, or at least the Birmingham shop is.

For your reference, Lot 2017 tried on for size in a dingy changing room at the end of a busy Saturday:

I'm wearing my 2000s still, gonna be kicking the arse outta those Natural Specials once hemmed, and got a pair of the LVC 606 super slims last weekend cos the fit on the thigh aint as tight as I thought it might be...

If this was 6 years ago i would have given you a 100% certain answer, but i haven't kept up with evisu and when they changed the seagull shape on the japanese versions to be more in line with the european ones i was done with the company for good. I do recall evisu europe doing some silly sub branding as deluxe for one season and one model didn't have any stitching or paint on its pockets.

 

Even though i don't recall that particular model very clearly and i have never seen that selvage type in evisu's before, the evisu authentic faded denim does look the way that listing portrays it, the inside tags look completely legit, they have hidden rivets and the buttons look authentic. I would say you're safe.

 

Don't bother contacting evisu.com because they have no clue what they are talking about most of the time. Basically the company has created so many failed sub brands for no reason and with slights detailing differences that anything that is older than 2004 or comes from japan they will say it's fake or don't know about it

Totally agree with everything you're saying - Evisu.com haven't got the foggiest these days due to staff churn, sub-branding and lack of coherent archiving of stuff that's been previously released. Even back in the day when I was popping down to London several times a year, it was me who was sharing knowledge and not them, so I would take a lot of what they say with a big pinch of salt unless they back it up with specifics such as year of release, denim used, etc.

For what it's worth, they jeans do match a previously-issued Deluxe model, selvage and all, although I fail to see how eBay will use the word of a few forumites as being of adequate value in an eBay buyer dispute - mark my words, you will lose the dispute and eBay will side with the seller and the best you can do is to minimise your losses.

I sold a pair of Heritage camo Daicock jeans a few years ago and the buyer accused me of having sold a pair of fakes when they arrived. I sent him the link to a page on Rakuten where the jeans where being sold, and he then said that he'd been into the Evisu shop then on Savile Row and a member of staff there had told him that they were fakes.

I asked him with whom he'd spoke and offered to contact them directly to pick things up to confirm the jeans' authenticity with copies of the email to him and he backed away from the offer but stuck to his guns.

Full credit to eBay because, having seen the message exchange between me and the buyer, they advised that I accept the return and refund the cash but then gave me an eBay credit of £40 as acknowledgement for having gone the extra mile to try and resolve things, so I actually ended up quids in on the transaction...

Those looks pretty good as well. How much do those go for btw? And should i go with my red wing sizing?

You can get them for just under three hundred quid, and go true to your UK size.

Thank you.

Any sizing tips on those btw? And any recommendation on which shop to purchase em online?

They're on C&J's 365 last which is TTS for most people, but they were a one-off model offered for one season only in that make-up as part of a special run of boots, if I remember rightly. They also did a model recently on the same pattern but in a different leather (some waxy side leather) which might still be available but won't wear in the same way as the rough-out.

I've just sold those boots (for twenty quid less than what I paid for them a couple or three years ago, result!) to fund a specially commissioned pair similar to those by Crockett & Jones. You'll pay through the nose for a special order with them but eight weeks down the line you'll have the boot that you want.

The only similar (English) model to those are the Cheaney 'Mallory' boot which is below and soon to be discontinued.

Absolutely cracking boots, I would have been gutted if I'd have seen these in the flesh after they became discontinued. They're a 270 degree stitch-down which is interesting in light of recent discussions on here, especially as I think they've quite an American look to them; I'll report back if they turn out to be any less effective at keeping water out than a 360 degree veldt.

Wasn't sure about the burnishing on the toe but it's less pronounced in real life than all the pictures I've seen. Shame it's on a Dainite sole though as I'm not a massive fan and I'll get a Ridgeway or Medway unit put on when the time comes. Made of waxy maracca suede, fully lined, with an ankle cuff that I'm liking:

^Crockett & Jones, mate, The 'Arran' model in rough-out suede.

Note to anyone thinking of getting the Cheaney 'Mallory' boot: they're soon to be discontinued and they're fucking awesome. Suede veldt boots are never seen, so just bite the fucking bullet, eh?

Pics to follow over the weekend.

Oh, and if anyone is thinking of the 'Irvine' brogue boot from Cheaney then you should know that it's like wearing fucking radiators on your feet. My shearling-lined Galways are only lined in the leg; the Irvine is fully lined, even on the footbed of the boot. Beautiful piece of kit.

Does anyone London based have experience of John Rushton Shoes repair jobs? I have a pair of Red Wings that need re-heeling.

Paul T had an old pair of Lotus shoes resoled by them and was very happy with the results, if I remember rightly.

Where? How much?

Best bet is to contact Crockett & Jones at their Royal Exchange shop as they handle their mail order. £395.

Fuck you, autumn, I'm ready for you...

And a possible new addition to the clan, now that the clearout is taking effect...the Coniston by C&J in navy grain, makes a change from my usual parade of brown boots. I've got a MTO pair from C&J on their way, and they'll be supplemented by either these or the Cheaney Mallory boots:

In fact, I am really curious about whether Wesco/Viberg stitch-down is 100% waterproof because the back half of the boot is nail-down. Is nail-down able to keep the water from penetrating into the boot? That is my question.

 

As for your question about the benefits and drawbacks of either construction. I would say that the Wesco/Viberg stitch-down needs more work done by hand as half of the shoes is nail-down. On the other hand, most of the stitch jobs (welt stitching and sole stitching) of Veldtschoen/Goodyear are done by machines. That is, the production time of Wesco/Viberg Stitch-down would probably takes longer than Veldtschoen (Goodyear) does. 

 

But, I don't know how to define whether it's benefit or drawback. For me, they are different shoe-making process based on similar idea. 

I suspect the main difference between the two constructions, the Wesco/Viberg stitch-down and the veldt, is when the boot is surrounded by moisture, i.e. when submerged in a muddy puddle or walking through snow or a dewy field.

I reckon that in rainy conditions the two are as good as each other, but the 360 veldt build, combined with the bellows tongue and suitable leather, would be better in the field, hence the name 'field shoe' as a translation of 'veldtschoen'. Explains why, traditionally, veldt boots are often seen as being shooting boots or field boots, and the shoes have often been used as golfing shoes.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, by the way!

Any well worn Cheaney Pennines out there?

Is there any stretch in them? Just tried on a couple of pairs and need to make a decision...

I wouldn't count on any stretch in a boot like the Pennine, mate...go for the larger if in doubt.

Basically, yes. The idea is the same, but Veldtschoen is a hybrid of stitch-down and Goodyear.

The difference between Wesco/Viberg stitch-down and Veldtschoen lies in how the lining attaches to the insole. The way Wesco/Viberg fix the lining underneath the insole is through nail/glue. However, Veldtschoen is like Goodyear; the lining is stitched to the welt and the rib underneath the insole (see the picture CTB offered).

 

Veldtchoen is an evolution of Goodyear to prevent water from penetrating into the gap between uppers and welt. 

So, out of interest, what would you say are the benefits and drawbacks of the different ways of doing it? Presumably the key benefits for the wearer would be the same, am I right?

I think I mentioned way back in the day that I'd seen a pic of an old pair of high leg (American) boots that were stitch-down with a full bellows tongue and I wondered on here at the time if they were just different names for the same water resistant construction.

For me, the "real" stitch-down construction is something like Danner or Clarks Desert boots. The uppers are stitched to soles or mid-soles all around. The Wesco and Viberg stitch-down construction is actually more like a hybrid of stitch-down and nail-down construction. As we can see from the Vibergs and Wescos, only the front half of the vamp are stitched to the leather mid-sole; the leather lining of the toe vamp are glued or nailed to the leather insoles (the orange area in the graph below). Check the graph below.

 

The back part of uppers around the heels are nailed between the leather mid-sole and the leather insole.

 

This explains why Wesco and Viberg's stitich-down construction are usually heavier than Goodyear Welted construction; the thick leather insoles and mid-soles are necessary in Wesco and Viberg's stitch down construction. 

 

Compared to Goodyear welted construction, the most apparent advantage of Wesco/Viberg stitch-down construction is probably the performance in waterproof. On the other side, the drawback is that they can be resoled for a very limited times because the stitches that go through the vamp and the soles will eventually tear the vamp, unless the stitch job is done by hand-sewn process. But not many cobblers are willing/able to do this.

 

Isn't this basically the same (or as near as dammit) to veldtschoen build, where the upper is turned out to the outside and the lining is lasted underneath?

(Pic courtesy of Styleforum but not sure of original provenance)

I totally concur. About a year ago, I realized my shoe collection was getting out of hand, and then I also realized that I had no life since I spent all of my dough on denim and boots. Now I've sold most of my stuff except for some gems, and I'm down to 10 boots. 3 seems too drastic for me.

 

It was like an out of control drug habit, but I'm making progress.

After a recent small clear-out I think I'm down to 45 pairs of boots, shoes and trainers included. My excuse justification is that I need good shoes for work and trainers for the gym, and I'm sticking to my guns on this one!

Having said that, I had a look at my stuff the other day and I could probably shift a few more pairs that look mighty fine but don't actually get worn too much...

My first ever C&J, the Arran in rough out, after a hard day's paintballing.

 

 

 

And cleaned up below, having used a scouring pad and a little saddle soap. Chuffed with how they look now...

ctb, talking of rough out veldtschoen, i'm speaking with Richard at the shoe healer about ordering either the Cheaney Fiennes or the Mallory (with a commando sole rather than the dainite) and just wondered if you know anything about them? I'v not seen them mentioned much if at all here. If I go for the Mallory I'd like to treat the leather with something to properly waterproof it, is there anything you recommend?

Cheers

I like them both, and toyed with the idea of getting a pair of the Mallory for a while - was going to ask Richard if he could ask the factory to leave the suede alone on a pair instead of burnishing it.

You could use Sno-seal or similar on the suede, although I think that if I had a pair I'd just wear them and see how I got on with them. For regular leather, Chelsea Leather Food impressed me so much with the ease with which it's absorbed, I've switched to that now instead of Obenauf's.

My first ever C&J, the Arran in rough out, after a hard day's paintballing.

I was actually going to wear the Snowdon, but rain was forecast and I didn't fancy getting bogged down with a clogged-up commando sole in the mud.

Soon remembered that it's not just the stitched-down build or waxy leather that makes veldt boots great for shitty conditions, but the bellows tongue too, which the storm-welted Arran lacks. This little insight sprung to mind when wading through ankle deep mud, which came into the boots a little by way of the sides of the tongue..not the end of the world by any stretch, but wouldn't have had this problem with the Snowdon, or Selkirk, or even the Galway...

devilva

I just checked your blog: You got one hell of an Evisu collection.

 

Quoted for fucking truth. Gotta love those old school gulls on some of that denim.

Early 90s probably. They wouldn't have been modelled on one of the classic Japanese cuts, or if they were then they never made reference to it.

(I think Lot 0001 was the first, and I'm not even convinced that they set out to recreate the 2501/2001 cut when they came up with it, more like came up with the link retrospectively, although this is just speculation on my part)

The Italian-made models started off with lot 'numbers' that were alphanumerical ('Z' and 'X' seem to crop up a lot) and their standard cut was indeed a loose one. What do the gulls look like? Some of the earlier models from this line have a very individual, almost symmetrical, style of gull both on jeans and jackets.

For what it's worth, I rate the denim on these models. Has a lovely hand to it.

^The texture looks great anyway, pal. Wouldn't worry about it!

Evis Lot 1507 Type II:

Love those gulls so much! Jeans look quality, so much better than a lot of the six-month force fades you see on here. Proper mint.

A Conversation with Rhys Davies, Sales Director of EVISU

 

 

http://www.rawrdenim.com/2013/08/interview-with-rhys-davies-evisus-sales-director/

 

Cheers for the link, even if he's talking loud 'n' saying not a fat lot!

Interesting that he mentions two or three new stores in the UK next year. Any ideas? Manchester for one, I'd imagine, and maybe Leeds or Newcastle? Glasgow? I doubt Birmingham will get one as although we're in the middle of the country (well, England anyway) we're too close to London...

Can anyone walk me through how to take care of rough out leather?

 

Packed with my Vibergs was a jar of heavy duty leather preservative. It's a beeswax-esque substance.

 

Applying it to the boots with my fingers, my boots now have splotchy dark patches across each boot, more or less entirely coated.

 

Do I now just wait for them to dry for a certain time?

 

I read that you can use a hairdryer on them now, and then go over them with a wire brush.

 

Does that sound about right?

Not sure the wire brush will do much if they're still coated apart from create tracks but I know the heat from the hairdryer will help even the wax out. If it's sunny, just leave them in direct sunlight for a few hours instead.

Weird, I have multiple pre 2008 No.2's and none of them have that. But none of them were d85 though. 

And they were all Macau-made Evisu International? I think they might have started using the No.2 designation on some of the later Italian-made stuff back when they were changing over.

At the time, and before I found this place, I often wondered what happened to the No.1 stuff...