conqueror

On 3/13/2024 at 8:25 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I usually contact them via IG

thanks - gave this a shot and they replied the next day. anyway, it looks like there are two versions of the 0105 wide - now i'm confused, especially since the measurements seem literally identical. i was looking at getting the second link.

https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/fullcount-0105xx-loose-straight-heavy-oz-ルーズストレートヘビーオンス?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=2f2fba224&pr_rec_pid=4996331667515&pr_ref_pid=4996136763451&pr_seq=uniform&variant=34024020869179

https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/collections/full-count/products/fullcount-0105-loose-straight-ルーズストレート?variant=34023282245691

edit: i'm an idiot, one is heavier than the other.

damn - well i'm not going to order from them if they won't even reply to me. the search continues!

so i've emailed bears twice in the past fortnight with no reply. anyone contacted them recently?

i want to try a pair of WIDE 0105s, but i'm torn between a 34 or 36 as i won't be able to make a return. do they stretch much and are bears' measurements accurate? this will potentially be my first FC purchase ever (!), so i don't have any prior experience. leaning towards a 36, although i wear a 34 in most (non-denim) trousers.

edit: on that note, i assume bears' is the best place to buy them? i've ordered from bears before, but it was a few years ago now.

i live in australia and pretty much exclusively wear either patagonia baggies (5", also great for the beach), cut-off dickies 874s, or gramicci g-shorts in summer. i also have a pair of patagonia cord shorts that i like a lot, but i've gotten too fat for. would be open to trying something by orslow or maybe buzz, although i can't really stomach the (significant) additional cost as i get older.

edit: wow, sassafras is a blast from the past. i bought a pair on my second ever trip to japan (2009) and immediately destroyed them while jumping a fence on my return to australia haha.

2 minutes ago, mariahscarry said:

Peak acr was fw21? lol

learn to read imbecile. peak in terms of sheer popularity and exposure; not quality of design.

the exact same thing that happened with the vis fanbase a decade ago has finally dawned on the acronym fanbase. errolson (like hiroki) started out as a 'purist' designer; as the years have passed and their success/exposure increased, they have essentially become a capitalist at heart and a designer as a secondary function. nothing really wrong with this, but nerds on message boards won't be your primary concern when john mayer and his ilk can instantly fund your next vintage porsche by buying out your entire collection in one swoop.

the key difference between the two labels is visvim does/will always have significantly more long-term widespread appeal (both in niche fashion circles/subcultures + wealthy albeit uneducated mass-market clientele, noting the pricing for both prevent true mainstream saturation) than acronym based on their visual identity, garment patterns, and materials used; particularly in terms of crossover with more 'senior' and/or female consumers. this is why someone like errolson can't really afford to disregard his diehard followers entirely like hiroki can; they provide a crucial financial buffer as the height of acronym's popularity gradually fades away (noting the peak has already been reached and arguably occurred two years ago).

yeah, i'm 6'1/186cm and definitely feel their OW inseam is too long even for myself. my wrecking crew overalls are cuffed 4x because i'm too lazy to get them taken up properly.

i have a five month year old daughter and never really even considered this. wouldn't a toddler etc find jeans to be super uncomfortable? i'm definitely not planning on getting her anything denim (nor expensive while she's growing so quickly), although her mum might be keen on some (pink) overalls...

lord help me.

drake's OCBDs are amazing, but the pricing is absolutely insane (even for MiE). i personally can't stomach paying rrp for them.

15 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

@conqueror very nice... what is the book called?

i should have said it wasn't my photo. the book is a man and his watch by matt hranek.

I’m an indigo dyer and farmer. My hands and arms are immersed in an indigo dye every day. This G-Shock was white originally. My friend who was doing a Casio promotion gave it to me and was curious to see what would happen if it was repeatedly submerged in the dye. It’s a strong watch, and waterproof. After two years, it had turned this amazing indigo color. Much better than the original!

Several G-Shock owners noticed my watch and sent me their watches to be dyed, so we made a few customer examples, too.

As I explained to them, if you wash the watch in enough clear water, the dye will come out of the plastic and it will be white again.

i wear the gramicci loose taper pant a lot in (australian) summer when shorts aren't appropriate; might not be popular with superdenim bros, though. stan ray sateen fatigues are even more lightweight and half the price of orslow etc.

nice to see people in 2023 still thinking they're in possession of something akin to classified files for five-eyes while dancing around hypothesised retail strategies for german design firms producing rehashed gore-tex pieces.

edit: hopefully i can look forward to another sub-tweet from old mate after they read this (hi E, enjoyed your DS cameo!)

9 hours ago, simontuntelder said:

Hatski became my go to brand for jeans after getting my first pairs from the now defunct and absolutely brilliant shop Alpha Shadows

I now own around 20 pairs or so - some too worn in/out to wear. I also like their different washes and really miss their overdyed indigo.

I’m around the same height and weight as you and the loose tapered fit suits me amazingly - high rise, loose around seat and thighs and perfectly tapered. Some will probably be a little put off by the short inseam, but I think it works well for me. I’ve always preferred a shorter inseam.

So I consider them some of the best and most interesting jeans around - but I don’t think they’re for everyone

20 pairs is insane! do you have the 'wide taper' cut? apparently it was only released just before christmas, but i only found out after making my order for the loose taper. might try it in a year or so.

agreed with short inseam, particularly because i have short legs for my height. getting other repro denim taken up with a proper chainstitch is/was always an expensive pain in the ass.

recycled evisu!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBAzfwySIEg

photography is not my strength and it seems like the files have compressed a lot with uploading. 

measurements are somewhat deceiving, especially the waist, as these are a much higher rise (a positive for me) than pictures may suggest. denim feels somewhat flat and even without much slubiness. i really like the subtle 'h' on each button compared to the same old crested donut, too.

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Thanks for posting. Brands that do this kind of sizing (0-5 or XS-XL. just like orSlow) are always a little bit suspect to me but as long as the fit is right, it's all good. You got some pics of your pair?

it's funny you're the first to reply - when i was posting i thought you would be one of the few that might be interested based on your previous fits (denime, 60s cuts with short inseams etc) over the years.

from memory we have similar measurements, too (i'm 186cm/85kg). 

description from namu shop, which i believe is one of only two retailers currently carrying the label outside of japan:

Based in Osaka, HATSKI [Hatsuki] was launched in 2016, making it one of the youngest labels we carry. Focused purely on jeans, HATSKI leverages some of the most impressive, high quality denim for modern, playful fits. We’ve found their pared-down philosophy and hard-to-find fits (higher waists, roomy cuts, and sleek tapers) to be a breath of fresh air. They cite nature as their primary inspiration, specifically citing the month of August, lush skies, and clear waters as inspiration – we’re not completely sure how those things tie back to denim, but for us, it captures nicely how good you feel in a pair of HATSKI jeans.

anyway, i remember reading about them on heddels years ago and decided i wanted to try something different beyond the names everyone knows and loves. i get the impression the label and cuts won't appeal to the repro stronghold on here, but thought they were worth posting about anyway.

they make three main cuts: the straight, the loose taper, and the regular taper all in selvage, multiple washes, and sizes 0-5. i bought the loose taper (HTK-22001) in one wash, size 5 from them directly and despite some language barriers and being sent the incorrect size initially, it was a smooth process overall.

happy to post some photos of the jeans, labels etc if people are interested as (english) information on the label is limited, but in the meantime you can check them out on IG at @hatski_official, or https://www.hatski.shop.

similar to orslow, one huge plus for me is didn't need to hem my pair at all due to the short inseam (noting i'm tall at 186cm, but also have short legs for my height).

@CSL i went from a US10 to a US12 when i was about 24 years old (i'm almost 36 now) and actually posted about it on sufu at the time. i was tested for acromegaly and other sorts of other conditions but all the tests were negative, so it was chalked up to just one of those weird things.

it is obviously common for pregnant women to experience an increase in shoe size, but apparently it happens to runners and some cyclists, too. thankfully i'm 6'1/186cm so the change in foot size didn't look strange (a US10 is actually considered below average for someone of my height anyway), although selling/giving away all my footwear wasn't so great...

to sell: ebay, styleforum (still lively compared to here), grailed.

if it's a particular popular or "hype" piece, then it's worth throwing on depop as well.

my understanding is he didn't come from wealth (his dad worked in a metal yard from memory) unlike many of his contemporaries. he studied at bunka and got a job at popeye magazine, both of which opened a lot of early doors/connections to him.

it's interesting they decided to come back after so many years of radio silence, even moreso since kiya seems to suggest there will just be one (final) release and no future plans. i remember trying on a pair of shearers over a decade ago now.