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Posts posted by tion4->
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Yeah that thread was super helpful for me.
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Sure thing. I took some pre-wash measurements that I'll post as well. They're hanging dry at the moment.
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Yeah I look forward to seeing how they turn out! Yours and the other contest pairs were incredible (fit and fade).
By dull, I was referring to the colour, as in muted or a bit beige. Not a bright blue with stark white weft. I like it a lot.
In the wash now...tons of indigo loss. The water is dark blue thought the washer door. Yikes!
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Just got a pair of 400T in the mail today. Probably the nicest packaging and unboxing I've experienced. You guys are probably all familiar with this, but I had no idea. Nicely wrapped in a fabric bag, branded hanger with clips, and the UES booklet. Fantastic details before even looking at the jeans.
Got a size 33. l'll give them a hot wash (I think I need max shrinkage) tomorrow and hope for the best.
Some unusual puckering/ bunching of the denim at the front pocket. Hopefully it adds character...or it could look like a pleat. Hoping the wash makes it less noticeable.
I quite like the colour of these raw. It's a bit dirty/beige from the weft hue in combination with the indigo. It's nice...a bit dull (in a good way) compared to others.
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Quick curious question for those who have a better grasp of AW (and Imperial) history. Is there a reason that AW and their Aussie neighbour Imperial have similar arcs?
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@superheavent check out the Flat Head 3002 and those Imperial x Self Edge collab (SEXI23). Both are close to what you're looking for I'd think.
Since it'll be your first raw pair, maybe a lower cost option like a pair of Unbranded 201 could be an option. It's no frills, but a nice starting point.
Once you've checked out a bunch of brands, come back with a 'this or that'
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Best to start with the fit you're after since 'slim tapered' can mean different things to different folks.
Take some measurements of a pair that you have now that is closest to what you're looking for. If you post some measurements you'll probably a lot of great advice (like hoggreaser on the last page). Use the Blue in Green measurement method: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=41
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Yikes. I just confirmed the measurements with Lee yesterday. I want a final length between 30.5-31".
We confirmed a hemmed length of 83cm (32.7") for final length of 78.5cm (30.9") with their 5.5% shrinkage calculation.
I'd be fine with up to 2" of shrinkage on them. From your guys experience is that realistic?
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Done, size 33 ordered.
Their approach to hemming is unfamiliar to me...felt strange indicating my final/post-wash inseam length at checkout.
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On the subject of tapered cuts, after measuring and considerable re-measuring and cross referencing what I'm wearing I think I've reached what might be my definitive preferred sizing and hopefully cut.
* All measurements post wash / soak / shrink
Waist (waistband aligned front and back, pulled a bit) : 16.5†- to fit 33†doubled
Front Rise (crotch seam to top of waistband above button) : 10.75†to 11†max
Rear Rise (crotch seam - from rear - to top of waistband) : 14.75†to 15†max
Hip (over bottom fly button ) : 21.5â€
Thigh from crotch (crotch seam to outer edge beyond outer seam - e.g. full fabric width) : 12.5†to 12.75â€
Thigh @ 3†(full flat fabric width) : 11.5â€
Mid Thigh @ 6" (full flat fabric width) : 10.25"
Knee (at 13" down from crotch seam) : 9â€
Hem : 8â€
Inseam : 32.5†to 33â€
If anyone has the Strike Gold 1109 in a 33 or 34, would this be comparable? Or The FH 3009 again in 33 or 34? Or a tapered fit from Oni?
Here's some measurements on some size 33s in Strike Gold (1109) and Oni (517) that I used to have. Both were too slim for me...sold them. Based on your preferred measurements they're too slim for you as well.
The Strike Gold 1109 size 33 (after one hot soak)
Waist: 33.5â€Front rise: 10.25â€Upper thigh: 12â€Thigh (1" below top): 11.5â€Mid thigh (6" from upper thigh): 9.5â€Knee: 8â€Hem: 7.75"Oni 517 14oz low tension size 33 (after one warm wash)Waist 33â€Front Rise: 10"Back Rise: 13.75"Top Thigh: 12.25â€1" below top of thigh: 11.75â€Mid Thigh (6" from top thigh): 10â€Knee (12" from top thigh): 8.5â€Leg Opening: 7.5â€The FH 3009 sound like a great bet.1 -
These look great. Been debating between some Fullcount 1101 and 400Ts...this contest thread is sealing the deal.
Thinking I'd go with a 32 or 33. I'm looking for a final waist (post wash and stretch out) of 34.5-35. I wear a 33 samurai 710xx, which is absolutely perfect all around.
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I know! They are very slow fading but the "texture" of the fade is unlike anything I've seen. They will take some time and dedication but will be something special.
Any fit pics on these? These are looking great.
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Well now I'm down to either the UES 400T or the Fullcount 1101.
Apart from the taper on the 400T, how would you compare the two terms of denim character, fading, etc? Anything else to consider between the two?
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UES 400T vs Fullcount 1101 vs Fullcount 1108
I think the 400T is most similar to the 1101. Thoughts?
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Much appreciated! Leaning more towards the 400T.I have the FH3009 and I just ordered the ues400T. I LOVE MY 3009'S , in retrospect I should have sized up to a 31 and went with an inseam 1 in longer and they would be the perfect pair. I bought them before I became obsessive about studying the measurement charts. I am looking forward to my 400T's, I just hope I sized them correctly. I am 30 in most jeans which as mentioned was too small with the FH's but I ordered a 29 in the 400T's based off the measurement charts. The top block in the 3009's is tight but thighs are more relaxed.
To be honest I've never really considered Fullcount before...the 1101 and 1108 look like great cuts!
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UES 400T or Flat Head 3009?
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I've been wearing mine twice in 20-25°C and found them pretty hot. Not only because of the colour, but they're also pretty stiff and tight woven, they seem to breathe not very well. Maybe even less than the 19 oz denim, but it's hard to tell as I've been wearing nothing but shorts and 14 oz denim the last months and maybe that exaggerates the effect. My worn in 19 oz denim felt cooler as far as I can remember.
So far, I still think they haven't shrunken a lot in the length, yet I couldn't stretch the waist out over the raw state. So sizing down is somethng I wouldn't recommend. In my size I have to choose between a bearable waist and slim legs.
This is good to know, confirmed my doubts. As much as I'd like a pair of these, I'm in the subtropics (Brisbane, Aus) and don't think I'd be able to wear these more than two months of the year.
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I've been eyeing the Pure Blue Japan XX-009 for awhile, has a nice gradual taper without being too slim through the thighs.
I just can't seem to track down a raw pair in my size from Japan seemingly.
Good tip. I hadn't even considered PBJ, always forget about the 009.
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Any more updates on the 710-BKB that a few of you have going? How are they settling in after a few days Max & Chubacca? How well do they breath? Wondering if they'll be less suffocating in the heat than the 710xx.
I just can't quite pull the trigger on a pair. I love the fit of the 710xx, but hope for a bit narrower knee/hem...contemplating sizing down one and letting the waist stretch out. The black/black just looks fantastic, the navy stitching just seals the deal.
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Looking for an indigo/indigo or indigo/black, slim/straight tapered fit (that isn't too tight in the thighs, like Sam 710) and isn't too heavy (or breaths well) for the hot summer months. Any suggestions?
Thinking the IH 633S-II but worry they might be a bit warm, particularly since they're unsanforised.
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FYI - I think I'm going to sell a pair of 517 low tension 14oz, sz 33, unworn, one wash, unhemmed. PM if interested. Will post to market shortly.
One size too small for me . I trust the waist will stretch out, but not the thighs.
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Not sure yet, will know more in about four weeks!
Any word on these?
I picked up a pair of Oni 517, which I envision would be a similar fit/denim, but the rise might be a bit low...and not quite the same character to the denim as in the SG.
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Momotaro x Blue Owl "Midnight Warrior" Skinny Straight 15.7oz - Model BOM001
6 Months
3 washes
Please excuse the crazy lighting here in Los Angeles today.
They really are that dark in areas and that bright electric blue in the worn areas.
They are my tightest fitting pair so the fading is pretty extreme.
Really liking these!
Wish there were still some available, would snap them up in an instant.
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Anyone starting to get some wear on the black or the black/black? Would be great to see some pictures of these.
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Flat Head x RJB Signet collab/contest!
in superdenim
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Those look great. I've not been a fan of the diamonds until seeing those.