Thicolas Rage
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THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)
Thicolas Rage replied to tweeds's topic in superdenim
Reviving this thread (sorry...reminded of an instagram reel from Almost Vintage Style that reads being a part of the denim/heritage community = not being able to make decisions by yourself). Looking at either the Fullcount 0105 WW2 brown denim version or the TCB 50's. Want something more comfortable and a bit wider than my samurai s0510xx. I feel like my sammies kind of give me a wedgie, but not sure if that means I need more back rise (which the 0105 would provide but not the 50s) and I hear many great things about the fullcount 13.7 ounce fabric + I love the idea of brown cotton. But... the pricepoint of the 50's is hard to beat and TCB has a great charm to it. Anyone have experience with one (or both) that can weigh in? -
I have a pair of s0510xx in one-wash. I've machine washed on cold about 8 times or so. They were originally hemmed to 30 inches. They now hover around 28.5-29 (give or take for potential measurement method differences) inches. So anywhere from an 1-1.5 inches additional shrinkage.
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
Thicolas Rage replied to minya's topic in superdenim
Thanks! I’m in no rush so I’ll shoot him a DM and see what he suggests. -
SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
Thicolas Rage replied to minya's topic in superdenim
Thanks @shredwin_206 and @nick682 - definitely interested in FW but a little bit intimidated about where to purchase them from Japan. Have experience with Bears, Hinoya, Celluloid, etc. but none stock freewheelers. What’s the general consensus on where to grab from? -
SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
Thicolas Rage replied to minya's topic in superdenim
Any WWII era repro jeans out there with a wider thigh? Need at least 12.25-12.5 inches of room at a 30-31 inch waist and the searching is proving difficult. -
Definitely think it's cool to choose which threads you want to keep longer and which you want to fully trim etc. Might as well go all in!
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For those without sharp scissors available - it looks like Bears just posted the 0105 WW2 model and jacket with the threads pre-cut! https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/full-count-s0105w-24-threads-already-cut-ww2-model-brown-cotton-denim-pants
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Thanks for the taking time the time to write those kind and very sage words. Given it is my first denim jacket (but likely not last) I absolutely was caught up in making sure it was perfect for every scenario, which included having just the right length. I’m embracing the way this fits on me and its use case as a versatile layering piece for the through the bone winters I get and you are absolutely right that no such perfect fit exists! Plus, it’s a great excuse to get something more cropped and fitted come spring. I hope this jacket ends up with a similar Goldilocks effect to your freewheelers piece
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Having used the great group of people here as a bountiful resource for many months, I figured it was time to post some photos for the first time and share my two first TCB purchases - the Baker pant and 20's jacket. Starting with the 20s jacket, I'd first to like to thank @istewi and @blooming for the great advice regarding shrinkage and sizing. I ended up going for a size 44 off of primarily the chest measurements (I am around 172cm tall with a 50-51cm chest and weigh about 75kg) which felt like a daunting jump from my usual size but I think it worked out well. I wanted to be able to wear it across as many seasons as possible given the fabric's lighter weight so this size allows me to wear with either a t-shirt or a sweatshirt underneath (I've even managed to fit it under my Barbour). The sleeves need to be cuffed once, as I expected, but the cuff isn't bulky at all and I quite like how it looks. I am concerned it is a little on the longer side regarding overall body length, as it sits around 2.5-3cm below my belt (around 1-1.5inches) so I'd love any feedback on the fit! I love the weight and hairiness of the fabric and also appreciate that Inoue finds it is one of their more accurate repro fabrics to its respective era...can't wait to see how it fades! As the 20's fabric is prone to shrinkage (according the nice people at TCB, whom I ordered from and were also very helpful over instagram via sizing), below are my experiences with movement after a warm wash and 30 minutes in the tumble dryer: PRE-WASH Shoulder width - 49 (-1 from TCB measurements) Chest width - 53.5 ( = TCB measurements) Length - 63.5 (+1 TCB measurements) Sleeve length - 62 (-1 TCB measurements) POST-WASH Shoulder width - 48 Chest width - 52 Length - 62 Sleeve length - 62 Onto the Baker pant - I picked these up as I saw them posted a couple times here as well, and they seemed like a great idea having spent the last year with my legs swathed exclusively in denim. I got them in a size L with a waist size that hovers around 30-31 (although I had not experienced anything quite as high a rise as these yet so I was thankful for the wiggle room the side tabs allowed for). I wanted to wear these with the side adjuster tabs both buttoned as the fabric sticks out otherwise and in case I teeter into the dirty side of bulking -- the measurement guide on Bears was very accurate. They are light and very roomy in the thighs and as I am on the shorter side the taper that TCB has added seems less pronounced when wearing on my body. Lovely texture and immediately soft to wear with what I think is quite a reasonable price tag. Please excuse the Muji house slippers in the photos!
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Would love to try a pair of Warehouse denim but it looks like its out of stock everywhere on most Japanese websites I am aware of. Is there an imminent restock coming soon I should hold off for or could a pair of Denime (looking at the 54 or 47 pair on Bears) substitute well in the meantime?
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Thanks for the info! Yeah it seems like the sleeves are just cut that way, no real way around it. Have also been considering the buzz ricksons ww2 type I jacket but I haven’t really seen any reviews on it so it’s hard to compare to a potential TCB pickup.
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Does anyone have any experience with how much the 20's jacket shrinks over a couple washes? Love the body length but the sleeves are always either rolled or look like they are swallowing the hands of all the models who are wearing it on the TCB website.
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
Thicolas Rage replied to minya's topic in superdenim
Had some great replies earlier here regarding loopwheeled sweatshirts - just waiting on my deluxeware pre-order to come in to do a full post on their updated (2020ish) fit. Now in the market for my first denim jacket. At 5ft 7 (171cm) with an athletic build, I’m mainly looking at either the TCB type 1’s (20s-40s) or the sugarcane 1953 type 2. Would love something shorter and boxier fitting. I also know FW is quite popular here but would only really pull the trigger from them if the jump in price is truly worth it given it’s my first denim jacket. Does anyone have any experience with the above that can help provide some comparison? Thanks! -
Hi there, First post but been lurking a while. Loved scrolling through this thread and have decided to buy my first loopwheeled sweatshirt (I do already own a Warehouse 484 Hoodie which I adore but the hood is VERY pointy). As such, I have come to ask some advice from those much more experienced and knowledgeable on the topic than me. Currently having choice paralysis between the standard Deluxeware sweatshirt (s101) and the Warehouse Lot 401. I really like the boxier fit and faded colourways of the Warehouse 401 sweat but also know that Deluxeware makes very unique fabrics with a heavier weight that would provide lots of function/utility. My main concern with the Warehouse sweat is it may not end up feeling very different from any of my regular sweatshirts due to its lighter weight (but perhaps someone who owns one could correct that statement), whereas I am fairly certain a Deluxeware sweat would stand out and feel quite substantial. Both are the same price, and both would be worn with the same purpose -- on their own (over t-shirts and oxfords) as well as under jackets in the winter. Anyone here own either (or both) that can help me finally make a decision? Thanks! EDIT: Would also consider Two Moon if they are a better option than both!