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ChemProfJSpencer

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Posts posted by ChemProfJSpencer

  1. 7 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

    I've been looking at getting these or the 1953 DSB's - what was shrinkage like in other places? Across the thigh for example?

    @Alec Leamas Here are the numbers on my size 34:

    Pre-wash:

    • Waist: 18" / 46 cm
    • Front rise: 13.5" / 34 cm
    • Rear rise: 17.75" / 45 cm
    • Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam):  24" / 61 cm
    • Thigh: 13.5" / 34 cm
    • Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.75" / 30 cm
    • Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 10" / 25 cm
    • Hem: 9.25" / 23.5 cm
    • Inseam: 35.5 in / 90 cm

     Post-wash (two 40 °C washes with line drying):

    • Waist: 17" / 43 cm
    • Front rise: 13" / 33 cm
    • Rear rise: 16.5" / 42 cm
    • Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam):  22.5" / 57 cm
    • Thigh: 12.5" / 31.5 cm
    • Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.25" / 28 cm
    • Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 9.25" / 23.5 cm
    • Hem: 8.5" / 22 cm
    • Inseam: 33.75" / 85.5 cm
  2. On 3/26/2024 at 4:52 PM, yung_flynn said:

    How are PNW boots for super flat and narrow feet? My Brannock is a little over 13 B for one foot and 12 B for the other, and the size difference can be an issue sometimes. Both are nearly completely flat and overpronate as well, although I prefer not to wear my custom-made orthotics since I was born this way and the orthotics feel a bit unnatural.

    I'm considering buying a brown or reddish-brown or burgundy boot, and I'm weighing and waffling on my options. I like the concept (business model and commitment to quality) of Frank's boots (Wilshire, Front Range), but the huge arch of the 55 last gives me some concerns. I'm also considering Alden Indys, probably 403 or 405. Indys might blend more seamlessly into the rest of my style, but I do like the ruggedness and history of the PNW boots.

    My work environment and lifestyle also make things a little tricky. I now work in an office most of the time, but I still do pop back into lab for some hands-on time and need some substantial shoes for that light industrial setting. Based on where I live too, I find myself spending a lot of outdoors walking and with yard work.

    @yung_flynn If you really want good advice, call up one of the brands. I know White’s has fitted people in your situation for decades, and I’m sure Nick’s and the others would be able to as well. They (the PNW brands) have a variety of lasts including those with less arch support. Give them a call and see—they are generally good people to work with. 

  3. 16 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

    @ChemProfJSpencer Cone Mills made the denim for levis 501xx exclusively from 1922 onwards. The Cone denim used back then had a lot more character, such as your neppy feel with slubs and loom chatter. The denim changed three times, once in the mid 1950s (a lighter blue dye it seems), mid 70's (sulphur dye technique was briefly introduced) and again in 1984 when the selvedge disappeared and the denim became more fluffier/bulkier, but had pretty much lost all that character by then. (As for the denim being a flaw, l've not seen evidence to support it).

    The introduction of repros from the mid 1990s aimed to rectify that, trying to get denim made that replicated that character. And here we are 30 odd years later with an array of manufacturers and different denims doing just that!

    Hope that helps?

     

    It does, thanks. I was aware of the golden handshake, of course, but it seems most of the repro brands denim seems a little more even and flat than the coarser stuff like the DSB denim in my pair. I love this denim (like, a LOT) but wasn’t sure how faithful it really was to period denim, particularly Cone denim. Glad to know it’s in the ballpark. Thanks @Dr_Heech!

  4. As a relative newbie to repro denim, I’m curious as to how full of “character” the denim in Levi’s from the 20s–40s actually was? My ’46 are surprisingly full of texture, neps, etc. that I thought were something of a modern invention. I was led to believe (perhaps incorrectly) that this “character” would have been considered as a flaw in denim from the period, and would have been rejected. 

    Having never handled denim from the era, I’m curious if anyone in the know could enlighten me in the subject? Is Warehouse appealing to creative license producing repros in denim like the DSB 14 oz?

  5. 8 minutes ago, lobster_for_lunch said:

    @ChemProfJSpencer I got the S10001XX(1000XX) DSB 1947 (W33xL32), and they shrank from 87cm to 79cm inseam after one 40 C wash... 

    @lobster_for_lunch Yeesh! That’s ≈ 10% after 1 wash. That’s a lot! I have about 5–6% across measurements after 2 washes. I’ll be careful not to wash them any hotter than 40 °C moving forward. 

  6. Okay, last time I’ll spam this thread until these get some significant wear. I did a second wash and got a touch more shrink as hoped for:

    • Waist: 17" / 43 cm
    • Front rise: 13" / 33 cm
    • Rear rise: 16.5" / 42 cm
    • Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam):  22.5" / 57 cm
    • Thigh: 12.5" / 31.5 cm
    • Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.25" / 28 cm
    • Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 9.25" / 23.5 cm
    • Hem: 8.5" / 22 cm
    • Inseam: 33.75" / 85.5 cm

    Final pics:

    IMG_5048.thumb.jpeg.1d995b80cab28d3686c878c243845491.jpeg

    IMG_5041.thumb.jpeg.629dc6a9ad9e6bc21977e0ceef9a0d99.jpeg

    I’m a sucker for good leg twist:

    IMG_5047.thumb.jpeg.e9889a86129c9226b5548f202ec87f92.jpeg

    IMG_5043.thumb.jpeg.c44bda5d27c968eda456edb2385474c0.jpeg

    And a couple of not great fit pics:

    IMG_5083.thumb.jpeg.b64299606f28802490eb1bb68b3faaed.jpeg

    IMG_5086.thumb.jpeg.ded31bfa9279e672a1b4fd79798529c6.jpeg

    Parting shot:

    IMG_5052.thumb.jpeg.73f701dd743bec54d5e03f88313a06ae.jpeg

  7. Here are the numbers on my size 34:

    Pre-wash:

    • Waist: 18" / 46 cm
    • Front rise: 13.5" / 34 cm
    • Rear rise: 17.75" / 45 cm
    • Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam):  24" / 61 cm
    • Thigh: 13.5" / 34 cm
    • Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.75" / 30 cm
    • Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 10" / 25 cm
    • Hem: 9.25" / 23.5 cm
    • Inseam: 35.5 in / 90 cm

    Post-wash (40 °C, delicate cycle, no spin, no detergent, sun-dried outside)

    • Waist: 17.5" / 44 cm
    • Front rise: 13" / 33 cm
    • Rear rise: 17" / 43 cm
    • Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam):  23" / 58.5 cm
    • Thigh: 12.75" / 32.5 cm
    • Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.25" / 28.5 cm
    • Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 9.5" / 24 cm
    • Hem: 8.75" / 22.5 cm
    • Inseam: 34.5" / 87 cm

    They shrank about 4% in most dimensions, which is less than I anticipated. However, they fit pretty well right now so I'll probably wear them as is for the time being. I feel sure they will shrink more in subsequent washes, particularly the inseam.

    Here are a few more pics for fun. Fit shot will have to wait till tomorrow when I have my tripod.

    53581835175_376dec2f44_o.jpg

    53581615518_58c05ab6d8_o.jpg

    53581615508_d897de93c5_o.jpg

    53581393766_c434366966_o.jpg

    53581835295_261c4b33d8_o.jpg

  8. Greetings, all. I'm new to superdenim and I've been rereading this thread for about a week. I just received a pair of the 1001XX(1000XX) DSB 1946 repros, and I absolutely adore them. I haven't washed them yet as I am currently fading a couple of other pairs for the time being, but I look forward to wearing these a LOT. I think they may be the perfect denim for me.

    I greatly appreciate @indigoeagle’s post a page back in the thread regarding the Warehouse numbering system. I would appreciate any more information on this as anyone would be willing to offer. As I said, I've read through much of the more recent parts of this thread (since about page 300) and it's left me more confused on this issue than I was before reading. It seems sometimes the numbers indicate a cut or a repro year and sometimes they indicate a specific denim used? If any of you who are long time Warehouse enthusiasts would be willing to shed some light on the subject and potentially the evolution of the lot no. usage, I would be greatly appreciative.

    Lastly, I've read elsewhere in the last week that Warehouse produces (or produced?) the Burgus Plus line for Hinoya. Can anyone confirm or deny this fact? I have a Burgus Plus chambray that I adore and would be interested to know that it was my actual first Warehouse made piece as opposed to these jeans that I've just received.

    I will definitely be purchasing more Warehouse in the future. I'll keep my eyes posted for loopwheeled sweat shirts, as I have a soft spot for those.

    Thanks, everyone. I'm glad to a be a (late) newcomer to this forum.

    PS—I've noticed that a lot of people posting in this thread pick the arcuates to get the full Levi repro look with the Warehouse denim. I've not seen people in other communities (notably IG) do this nearly as much. I'm curious as to why most of you seem to want to do this? Not questioning... I had no intention of picking this arcs on my pair until I had them in hand, and I suddenly had the burning desire to grab my seam ripper and have at them, which is very strange for me... I'm the guy who can't even bend the corner on a book page to mark my spot because I hate to intentionally alter the original condition of anything—much more of a "natural patina" kind of attitude for me, usually.  

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