setterman

Question I've been meaning to ask, can winners forgo their prize and have the cash value donated on their behalf to a non-profit charity instead?  

No more "plain Jane" than a pair of Warehouse, IMO! The '47s are a bit wide, so perhaps that turns people off, but they do everything right. 

I know that's why I don't wear my 47s much, the leg is pretty wide, and that's not a style I'm as in to right now.  

Other than that, they're as good, if not better, than my jeans that cost twice as much.  

No but 10" rise jeans are just.. not comfortable 

Is that rise too small or too big?  I assume the former.  I know there are many brands and models over the years I've skipped trying because post wash their rise will be 11" or less.  Too short to be comfortable on a size 36 or 38 IMO.  

but I just don’t see the allure of Roy denim.

The allure is a small batch jean, with a new model or two a year.  That's it, because I can't see anything else about his product's materials, construction, or patterns that makes them any more special than any of the other brands SE (or BiG) carries.   He came along a few years ago where sufu's attention was regularly jumping from new brand to new brand.  He developed a following, and then paired with SE.  Suddenly this growing flavor of the month became exclusive.  You could no longer place an order with him, you had to sit and wait for the next release.  And when something came along, you had to act fast, or you were going to to have to wait another six months for your next try.  That exclusivity has driven and guaranteed future demand.

He makes nice stuff, and IMO his patterns have improved over time.  But, I don't care for the back pocket stitching, and I really don't care for the idea of having to compete to get a product.        

You're going to like that jacket.  Very pleased with my Buzz one, and glad I was able to upgrade to the heavier version now that subfreezing temperatures have arrived.  Nearly as warm as sheepskin without as much stiffness or bulk.    

No issue with my center hi or ramblers, but had to return the hughes I bought back in September.  About three and a half months of wear, and the sole split across the ball of the foot (discovered when my feet got soaked walking on wet pavement) and holes wore through the sole at the heel.  Not impressed.    

Good fit on that jacket!  I think the pinching was probably just all the bulky material at the arm pits, and it's going to settle down with wear.  

Thanks for the kind words about Bryce.  Field trial setters..... your uncle was smart to move onto something smaller and calmer in his older years!  I'm going to be in my 40s when I start looking for Bryce's replacement in a couple years, and while I want to stick with setters, I'd like something a little less energetic (at least for the first couple years of it's life).    

I just got the heavy demotex version as well(history preservation non-stencil edition). Very nice jacket, fit is good, except... Man is it tight in the armpits. Really tight.

I have a 38-39" chest, and ordered a size 38.

Now debating on sending it back & ordering a size 40. I really don't want the extra bulk, but these arm holes...

Do you have the blue or khaki version? I seem to remember Charles saying the blue one fits slightly smaller (but don't hold me to that).  You're similar to me as far as how much the jacket measures compared to actual chest size (jacket is 6" bigger).  I get a little pinch at the armpits, but that's the nature of the style and the amount of material in the area of the jacket, and it's nothing that isn't manageable.  You could try going up to a 40, but then I'd be worried about the body being too wide.  This jacket is designed to be worn over bibbed overalls of the same material, so getting something that fits close enough to keep out the cold air over regular clothing might be tough.  The standard version is kind of in between the sizes of the Demotex model, if you don't need the heavier alpaca (I do in the Great Lakes region), you might find a better fit with that version.

A few pictures down shows the fit difference between a standard version that's a mix of XXL and XXXL measurements, and the 46 Demotex.  

https://www.instagram.com/setterpie/

Thanks Pudaspriest. Recently, it was with Feltraiger and Levi's. I also have the same lack of sizing issue on the Cultizm page (and model clarification for that matter).

 

If you're after LVC, your safest bet is to contact a Levis store.  They've always been helpful measuring what ever size/model I've been interested in.  A store like cultizm should have the measurements on their site, but they will measure jeans when asked. 

I would clearly say: it depends

I don’t limit myself to a price and won’t buy anything above it. It depends on what jeans I am looking at and what they offer to me. Crazy fabric, special dyes and neat details. A cut that I think would look great on me…I buy.

We've all got some sorta ideal product that will make us open our wallets and spend more than we thought we would.  

Just wondering if the market is changing, and you can't automatically expect people to spend over $300 anymore on a pair of jeans without being something very special and/or very limited.  

Didn't want to clutter up the Ooe contest interest thread (hoping it happens, and with the LHT denim). I notice there are some guys balking at the $300 asking price.  After a couple years of a weak yen, and denim prices ranging from $120 to $250 direct from Japan, are the days of people willing to pay $300+ for jeans over with?  I know $240 is about my cut off.  

Warehouse 1001. Two initial washes to get the shrink out, another at 100 wears, and another at 137.  At 177 days of wear now.  Was going to give them another wash at 180 wears for for New Years, but I think I'll let them go out to 200 wears before their next wash. 

I like the softer, vintage fade this denim is producing.  Tough to capture correctly though with my iphone, and the poor light that is winter time in NWPA.  The picture of the front side is pretty true to life on a nice sunny day.  There's more contrast going on on the backside than my phone was able to capture. 

Picked up the bigger, heavier Buzz Demotex N-1 (will get pictures of it up in the next couple days), so need to move my old standard version.  Have it listed on ebay. (now sold)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buzz-Ricksons-N-1-Deck-Jacket-Size-XXL-/262202481154?

Those all look like ugly dad jeans...

Beware, jeans can be washed too much!  Not exactly the results I'd be looking for, though I have no doubt something a little more sufu approved could be created by one of us.  

Damn near perfect fit on those 900s.  You gave them a cold soak, is that it?  Were they one wash?  My only concern is the inseam usually shrinks 3" with the 1001 denim.  Would hate to see those get any shorter.  

I have a Schott peacoat with the quilted (nylon) lining. 

That makes a big difference I'm sure.  The vintage reproductions just have a rayon lining for easy on and off, but does nothing to help retain body heat.  Without some sort of bulky wool sweater on underneath, I wouldn't expect much out of the Buzz or RMC pea coats below freezing.      

 

edit: ..... who actually wore their military jackets etc. in public and not exclusively to the film set

Army/Navy stores were filled with surplus jackets from WWII well into '50s, and in some cases as late as the '80s.  Not uncommon for the working class to pick these garments up for a few dollars to use as work clothing.      

Yeah I like the repro game but it would also be nice to be able to wear it going to the office. I won't be wearing suits but I still think the N-1 might be a bit too rugged. 

 

Not sure about temperatures but I guess it often is around zero since this is also at the coast so I guess we have the same kind of weather.

 

Unfortunately I don't really fancy the look of M51's. Thanks for the tips mate!

The standard Buzz N-1 should suite your needs down to around freezing.  With just a flannel shirt, cotton button down, or light sweatshirt, it's best suited to the 35 to 45 degree range in damp weather. You can wear it in colder weather (and much colder drier weather) with a wool sweater on underneath.    Don't expect protection from the rain though.  Light drizzle will bead up, but heavy rain drops immediately soak into the cotton shell.     

A friend of mine served in the USN in the early 60s. He has nothing but bad things to say about pea coats and the level of warmth they provide.  I know they are classic fashion, but I don't think I'd ever invest in one for serious winter wear.    

I could do it but I'd definitely be more at ease on 36 then, thank you Flo!

Expect a 36 to shrink down to 35.5" and then stretch out to 38" pretty easily.    

I wish they made a size 35 in the popular models.  Going to try just hot soaking the waistband on my size 36 1001 this weekend. They're not ready for a wash for another couple weeks at least, but the waist is at least an inch too big right now. Same thing goes for my 1003XX.  Both fit great post wash, but a week or two later, I'm wanting to wash them again to tighten them back up.    

I then dry inside out on normal to high heat depending on how tight they're feeling lately or how much of a hurry I'm in 

 

Willing to bet the dryer is making the difference.  Most of us are still avoiding it, no matter how much we wash our jeans.

On a side note, does the 1001 denim fade quickly? I don't think I've been wearing them for even a month yet and I already see hints of blue coming out from high stress areas.

Figure it's going to take 60 to 100 wears before you start seeing much.  I'll be at 180 with mine by the end of the month, and while very pleased with them, they are slower than what you'd see with the 1000XX denim and other brands.  

Yep, back pocket or in a jacket pocket (and 9 months a year around here you can get away with some sort of jacket).  I think the front pocket phone fade looks horrible, especially when combined with a rarely washed, low rise, tight thigh, narrow ankle skinny cut.  Throw in stacks plus cuff, and you've hit on all kinds of bad.  

Max, I think this pair is pretty typical of what you can expect of a pair of 800s being gently washed every 40 to 60 wears.  

http://info.ware-house.co.jp/usedsample/25/

^upload them to an online host (flickr, imgur, postimage) and insert the code.

 

For those with the 700/800: How frequently would you recommed to wash? I was planning on washing mine at least every month, but feel like the denim is getting pretty grey and flat. Maybe I was expecting something similar to the 1001XX or Ahos crazy ropes, but so far I still wait for the denim to become really fantastic. Don't get me wrong, I like it nd love the fit, but compared to my Eternals or UES I find the denim to look more "normal".

 

My roping at the hem at least is going strong, but also prone to rip on the front, like on almost all my pairs. Too bad.

Don't look to Aho's jeans with the expectation you'll be able to achieve similar results.  There's something specific going on with his process, that other's don't seem to recreate with simple increased washing.  Not sure if it's his washer type, detergent, wash temp, dryer temp, or water type (hard vs soft).  And most importantly, you have the 800 (1000XX) vs the 1001. The 1000XX denim is a little more flat IMO, and less prone to the crinkling up you see with the 1001 (though with two initial trips through the wash, and then another at 100 wears, and another at 137, my 1001 haven't puckered or crinkled anything like Aho's).  The fantasticness of Warehouse isn't so much about the denim doing anything dramatic along the way, but being a steady pair of jeans that that produces a vintage looking piece.

My advice would be to give your 800s 40 to 60 wears between washes.  Push it out to 90 to 120 wears if you want more contrast.  Washing less than 30 wears is going to give results I don't think you'll be as pleased with.