setterman

With shipping and all, 42,000 Yen. So they surely don't come cheap.

 

   Certainly nice looking jeans and a top notch 40s repro, but that's a bit up there!  Do you feel they warrant being 2.5 times the price of a pair of SC 47s?  

anything from cotton button downs to wool sweaters. The jacket is heavy enough that I dress for being indoors rather than out. Since the square waist can be a bit drafty, I lean toward bulkier clothes to take up some space when it gets well below freezing.

Have my eye out for an N1 jacket for the fall/winter. Should I go with Iron Heart or Real McCoys?

Can't comment on the IH jacket, but I suspect the McCoy's version will be way heavier than needed for your climate. I have the Buzz Demotex N-1, which is supposed to be comparable to the McCoy's version in weight, material, and warmth.  Where I live, on average it's 20 to 25 degrees colder in January here than it is in San Francisco (I assume that's the bay area you're from).  I need the heavier N-1, and really, it needs to be 35 degrees or colder to wear it comfortably.  The lighter, standard N-1 from Buzz would be better suited to a climate that's producing highs in the 40s and 50s in January.      

Not sure what you expect on a denim forum when a new denim brand launches

Discernment.  

Three pages of chat devoted to a new brand that's six years late to the game, appears to be average at best, and has a nonsense secretive marketing campaign.  I'm sure they appreciate the attention guys.      

Yes, if they still have some starch left in them they should produce sharper creases, and more pronounced fading in those areas if worn for an extended period of time before their next wash.

Frequency of washing down the road is going to impact the amount of contrast between the worn and non worn areas. If areas of wear have already been established, the washing should soften its edges.   

Thanks! We're all getting old around here.... 

Welcome back! Where have you been man?

 

orSlow would also be a new-ish brand which isn't too known yet.

 

And Warehosue or Full Count are still going strong on Sufu.

In general, the more subtle brands are rising again and brands like PBJ, Oni or Samurai are less active around these parts (my personal feeling)

Yeah, interesting how brands go up and down in popularity, and what forums they're popular on.  Using the example of WH, there's probably just as much interest in that brand at denimbro as here, but conversation seems to be pretty much centered here. And while the Mister Freedom thread used to hop here, that conversation has moved to DB.  

They're just a hair smaller than I'd like.  If they were 1/4" wider the entire length of the leg, and about 3/4" to 1" higher rise (front and back) they'd be close to perfect.  All the Lee details on them are great though.    

Has anyone ever permanently stained their jeans? I kind of can't believe I've never run into this directly after wearing this stuff for almost 8 years now, but I recently spilled some food on myself that has me a little nervous. I am of course going to throw them in the wash tonight, but I have doubts about the stain (curry!) coming out. 

The sooner they're washed the better, and probably going to need to pre-treat the spot.  I little water, detergent, and scrubbing with a soft bristled tooth brush on the spot prior to washing should probably get the worst of it out. No way around it though, you're going to lose some indigo where ever you scrub.   

Good Housekeeping's recommendations for curry stains are a little harsher than most of us would prefer!

http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/cleaning/tips/a16079/stains-curry-may07/

The great fits in the pictures people are posting of their 1105s make me wish I'd gotten a pair of them instead of my 1002s.  Anyone want a lightly used pair of size 36 1002?!  

Perfect fit on those John.  And they're an early 60's style jeans, they're supposed to show some ankle.  

Willing to bet you and I'd need a 38 or even 40 in this brand Broak. IIRC, Flash wears a 29 in warehouse, and is sizing up to a 31 in these. Will be interested in seeing some pix of the completed 41's. Would like a top notch late 30s 501 copy at some point.

Hope it kinda just goes away with more wear but otherwise sounds like that's just how it's gonna be. Thanks again!

Won't go away and will probably start wearing along the edge of the pinched area.  Don't know if that will bother you or not, but want you to have a heads up.  

Personally, I think any jean as tapered at the 710 should be hemmed, and worn with minimal staking and no cuff.  Kinda defeats the purpose of a tapered jean to have the leg narrow down to a bunch of cuff or stack at the ankle.       

By that do you mean a bigger/wider cuff? I don't think that's the issue cause they're already cuffed relatively high. They're basically at my ankles, don't touch my feet/shoes when I wear low top Vans for example.  I'll try and take a picture of it to explain.

 

This seems more likely, even though I wouldn't necessarily say it's an aggressive taper.

 

Not so much about baby-ing my jeans, just kinda don't like how it looks.

 

This is what I mean, I know it's an odd thing to care about, but it makes for an awkward fit.

 

 

Ok, now I see what the issue is.  To answer your initial question, no, a steamer won't fix that.  To lessen that pleating/pinching, you need a narrower cuff.  How many of inches of inseam are in that cuff?  Four, five?  You maybe could lessen things by rolling it into a standard triple cuff, but odds are you need to lop about three inches of inseam off those things and go with a regular single or double cuff.  If you want that exposed hem double cuff, you really need a straighter leg jean.     

Zipper vs Button

 

I’m pretty sure most of you prefer the button fly for the more rugged and authentic look.

 

With my Warehouse 1105 I have a zipper fly (also authentically correct for the 505) and while I love the ease and speed to close the pants, I tend to forget to close zipper. That never happens to me with jeans which have a button fly.

 

How many of you guys wear a pair with zipper at all?

I find myself forgetting to zip up too. Thankfully no embarrassing moments because of it!  Probably happens to you for the same reason it happens to me, we wear button fly 95% of the time and we are used to buttoning up from bottom to top, so when the waist band is buttoned we're done.  With zip fly jeans we button the waist band and we're "done" and forget to zip up.

If a zip is historically correct, like on a 101Z, 551ZXX, or 505, I have no issue with it. But generally prefer button fly, especially on jeans that shrink a lot.  

This may be a silly question but does anyone have any experience with using a fabric steamer on heavy denim (Samurai 710 if matters).  I'm getting some awkward bunching above the cuff of my jeans around the shin area 

Without seeing it, I'm willing to bet the inseam is too long and the excess fabric is bunching up.  Recuff them to a shorter length and see if that fixes it.  

Very nice! 

Am I the only person who thinks those are made out of 1001 denim?  Caliroots listed it as being made out of 13.5 oz demin, and I just assumed that was wrong since the 1000 from Japan and carried by BiG is 14.5 oz 1000XX denim.  Between the offset belt loop, double red tab stitching, and Deeptone tag it's obviously a different export model.  Add 7 cm of waist shrinkage, the way the denim is puckering at seems and hem, and the way they drape when worn, it reminds me a lot of the 1001 denim.    

Having a chance to wear my 1003XX (same cut as 1000) while my 1001 are out for repairs.  Forgot how much I like the way these fit, especially post wash.  I think you're going to be really happy with the 1000 Cucoo. I've said it before, I'm surprised there seems to be minimal interest in that model here.  Anyone able to pick these up while they were on sale is damn lucky!    

The 1000 seems to be sold out there now so I can't check but iirc they said 40 cm waist, too.

80 cm/31.5" sounds about right for a size 30. I expect they'll have shrank down to 29 to 29.5". I've found FC and WH measure a little smaller when wet, they'll give a true measurement when dry.

Those jeans are still way better than anything else you see walking around and also much better than jeans that are never washed, but for me if I'm going to wear only one pair to wear for years at a time it has to be one where I'm blown away by how they look after that time, and I'm just not with Warehouse (and most other brands!)

While I wouldn't be interested in owning all the various brands here, I can go through every brand thread and find worn examples and say "I like that".  I can like and appreciate what they're doing, even if I would never wear it because it's not my not my style or wouldn't fit. That's why I find it surprising that you could look at four pages of pretty top notch stuff and be like "eh, nothing there I like".     

To be honest, I don't think any of those pairs look good 

 

I've given this more thought, and if anyone looks at the Warehouse used sample page and says "I don't see anything I like", IMO they need to rethink the whole "I'm into selvedge denim" thing.    

As for looking like worn Levis.... yeah, just about every Japanese brand is going for that other than ones like Oni, SG, and PBJ.  Hate to be the one to tell ya Ben, but your Flat Heads hit water a few more times, they're going to look like.... worn Levis, with a little more vertical/streakier fading.     

It's difficult to know the measurements of the 1000 available from Caliroots because this looks like an international edition. Assuming that they are cut exactly the same as the current run of 1000 (1000XX), the measurements on the WH site are correct. I tried a 31 in Tokyo and they run true to size in the waist.

You'd assume they're the same cut, but Caliroot's and BiG's measurements don't agree with Warehouse's.  WH shows the size 30 1000 as 4 cm smaller in the waist than Caliroots, and 2 cm smaller than BiG shows the size 36 1000.

I can't say for sure who is correct, but my size 36 1003XX from the same season BiG got the 1000, matches up exactly with their measurements for the OW size 36 1000.  I think in the case of the 1000s Caliroots is selling, I'd go with their waist measurements.        

If this would be the entire case, there wouldn't have been a reason for Ed/Signet to complain about Denimio selling Full Count at Japanese retail with free shipping. And Full Count reacted and thus prices at Denimio went up for Full Count. And apparently Kiya knows more when he already said that Full Count won't supply Denimio anymore.

 

So Signet was hurting significantly. And hence my question about why he opened up a store in the first place. An ass hole could say "Well, Ed...you were too late and didn't make a good business plan and now you complain because you fucked it up."

If you wait until you're hurting significantly to complain, it's too late.  I'm sure Ed and every other store owner selling FC applied pressure on the brand as soon as they were aware of being undercut.  

The only reason to open a store is to make money.  The fact that there are five Self Edge stores now, should tell you #1, there's money to be made, and #2, Kiya is good at making it.  Does it require constant work? Are others able to pull it off?  Will it be a viable business model 10 years from now?  He's got one thing definitely on his side when it comes to future... store locations.  SF, LA, and NY all guarantee access to huge populations, and fashion minded, affluent customers.  Will Ed be successful? Time will tell.  He, and any other store trying to get going right now may well be too late to the game.