somatoform

I tried some Kamakura a while ago at their store on Madison Ave. They didn't work out. I know this info is useless without a specific reason as to why, but I can't seem to recall what the issue was. I believe that the higher armholes force you to size up which in turn makes them too billowy in the midsection and big in the neck. I'm speaking of the NY classic fit.

Gitman has a neck opening that are just too large in my preferred XL. Pity as the overdye navy oxford is a beauty in person.

I found that Brooks Brothers' Regent fit is a pretty damn nice fit.

Oconnell's in Buffalo makes a nice shirt. If you find your neck size, the body falls in line quite nicely. They do however have some collars which are obnoxiously large.

Otherwise, none of these shirts render a good enough fit and low enough price to not justify mtm.

23 hours ago, chambo2008 said:

right if anyone could help, i'm pretty sure momotaro jeans are next on the list, just deciding between types, they all have the battle stripes which is what i'm after.

0306sp from blue owl £225

or

 bomo12 from blue owl £225 special collaboration the extra details look cool

or

0105sp from Okayama Denim £163

 

the 0306sp and the 0105sp look basically the same so not sure why the price difference, i can understand the extra charge for the collaboration as different denim, so if you had to choose what would it be? also any idea's with custom charges from both company's as have no experience with either.

thanks in advance 

I've ordered twice from Blue Owl international shipping free above $100, which both purchases were. Regarding customs, I don't think you need to ask. I never did. You can just trust in the process. I'm being discreet here hahahaha but, yeah, never any issues.

^Considering mandel9000's lovely SC 2009s many pages back and your friend's Okinawas here, I'm inclined to ask if men can look as good as women in SCs?

I'd love a pair of SCs; just having a hard time finding the right fit. My Okis unfortunately did not work out.

Those look awesome.

On 06/02/2018 at 2:46 AM, garden gnomes in space said:

size 5 orslow 105's, after warm wash tumble dry BiG style

W: 36"

FR:12.5"

BR: 17"

Thigh: 13.5"

Inseam. 32.5"

Leg Opening: about 8.25-8.5"

 

I have seen measurements for the same size saying thigh is 12", even 11.5".  Shameful  

 

When I see a 12" or 11.5" thigh measurement with specs like the rest of what you measured I just assume the thigh measurement is wrong, or, in the very least, and to be diplomatic about it, that they are measuring thigh in a very specifically limited way.

Now, on the other hand, front rise should be a much more straight forward measurement to take, one would assume. So how Kafka gets 11" front rise on a size 5 105 one wash baffles me.

^Regarding the 78s, I recall a few days back finding it funny that this webshop I was browsing just happened to have some 78s left even though I've never seen any other webshop with them. You're in luck, if you don't mind retail (size 30 and 34 left):

https://www.supplyandadvise.com/products/levis-vintage-clothing-1978-501-jeans-rigid?variant=694705081

Thanks Jewellben for the sizing rec for the '54.

And thanks 428CJ for the measurements. The triple pleat is not my cup of tea afterall, but your fit pics of the '66 have sold me on the fit. Wear in good health.

If I'm a size 36 in '66 and '76, would I also be a 36 in '54?

I'm sure that this has been asked and possibly answered, but I can't find the info.

Regarding the ultra suede arcs, if I remove the stitching does the ultra suede just fall off or is it glued on there. I really don't want them and Self Edge (which I know carries the non-suede arcs) has been out of my size for a while, so I might go 2nd.

Thanks BS, exactly the info I am looking for.

With Somet's standard denim, is what BiG describes as partially sanforised (even with a hot wash) just shrinkage you get from any sanforised denim? So nothing drastic and nothing that wouldn't stretch back out? 

Hmmm... no doubt there can be some ugly versions of it, but this guy (or guys) does it well within the overall look:

Thanks d-rew. Those measurements give me some insight. I'll have to communicate with the seller for some more specific measurements.

^I would jump on that too. 

I got one wash measurements for a 101 from Naoki not long ago. At 34" waist and 11" rise on a 36, I was not interested. 

Some sizing help please for the s0500xx

I'm a size 36 in most straight leg fitting jeans. Of course, there are exceptions. Flathead 3009 36 does most certainly not work. I'd be a 38 in that jean (though the waist would need to be contained after stretch). Sugarcane 36 in 47, Oki, and Hawaii work, as does a 36 in FH 3005, and Eternal 884 in 36, so does the 811 in 36 except for the mid thigh to knee area (too tight). SDA 103 in 36 would be too tight.

I'm looking for (post wash and post-stretched out):

waist: 17.5" - 18"; front rise 11" - 11.5; upper thigh: 13.5" - 14".

Leg opening and back rise I'm assuming will work on the 500 so they don't matter (as long as the back rise is 15" - 15.5" and up).

I'm sure I'd be either 35 or 36. I'm not opposed to taking in the waist if need be. 

Any advice? Or should I just focus on getting the 510 when the opportunity arises?

On 13/03/2017 at 5:57 PM, Capibaro said:

I am looking for a fitting Levi's sawtooth denim shirt in a good washing (yet classic). Like tis one. They seem nowhere to be found. Anyone a good store online to buy them?

If it doesn't have to be Levis, try Ebay for some RRL sawtooth offerings. A wash one is below.

If it doesn't have to be a wash, they also made a great one with a denim very similar to that Indigofera above. Great shirt. Again, probably nothing currently listed, but they pop up once in a while.

On 16/02/2017 at 5:36 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Has anyone bought the 66s recently? If so, how is the waist sizing on them, I usually wear a 32 in most jeans, including LVC so would like them to start at approx 33.5"-34" raw. I think the 66s may come up a little smaller than that so I may need a 33 instead. Thanks.

Size 33 raw bought within the last year (BiG method):

Waist - 34" (17" across)

Front Rise - 12"

Back Rise - 16"

Upper Thigh - 12.5" - 12.75"

Leg Opening/hem - 8.5"

Inseam - 36"

I have a pair of 103s in 36 sitting on ice with all the tags attached because though I would love to wear them I don't see the point in washing them. The rise is already 10 3/4" raw. Still I hold on to them. I don't see why they can't add a measly 0.5" to their rise.

cool_hand,

how did those start with a 12.5" fr? Denimio and BiG have the 36 one wash going down to 10.75" fr and Rivet and Hide and Okayama have the raw 36 starting with 11.5" fr.

I'm thinking about getting a 36 as well, but the difference between 12.5" and 11.5" fr raw is very substantial.

^There is 100% brass that is nickel and lead free.

I have no experience with the 21oz denim, but this shop reports 3-4 2-3cm (I can't believe I misreported that when it was right in front of me) of stretch in the waist (though I've never heard of this shop, so take this with a grain of salt).

This is a really great shop. It's based in Toronto and run by a couple of Japanese ladies who know their stuff quite well. It's small (though not by big-ish city standards I suppose) but jam-packed with a lot of varied stuff. They're really kind and accommodating. I'd give them a lot more business if they carried more models of the brands they carry. 

I remember trying on my first fullcount (and Denime and Momotaro) here (either the 1108xx or 1109xx - whichever is the more relaxed of the two). For a guy who normally wears 36, I was surprised how the well the 34 fit (but raw). The denim is beautiful. If they carried Momo 0201 or 0901 or Fullcount 0105 or 1101, I'd have no problem being in at retail because there really is no substitute for trying on in person and with personalized service.

Blue Owl is having a 20% off sale. On the already reduced styles of an almost full size run of the 103 and a couple sizes of 107 at $185, the reduced further sale price becomes $148.

I'm currently dealing with a twist on the conundrum above. Except rather than the decision being between a B&M shop and a Japanese online shop, my issue is between two Japanese shops. I'm in the market for a pair of jeans sold both by Denimio and PSA. Denimio would come out to $40 USD less for the pair. So what's the issue? I like Naoki. I've bought from him before and he's been extremely helpful. A part of me wants to spend the extra $40 just because it's Naoki, the other part of me says that $40 is 1/4 the price of another pair of jeans. It should be an easy decision, but for some reason I'm finding it not to be.

^Seems to be the case. I noticed that to when I looked at the chart. 

waist: 92, fr: 26, thigh: 34, hem: 23

So SD's take on a '66 cut in size 36 is identical to the 103.

I suspect, however, that that 10" front rise might be closer to 11" since they list the front rise on the 103 as 26cm as well even though by all other accounts it's 11". Still too low though. 

Although almost invariably a size 36 in jeans, I might have to go 38 in the 103. I've tried on the 36 103 and they fit great..... raw.