Morningstar

my problem with DH and Hedi is that outside of materials and impeccable construction, he has been mining slight variations of the same exact style for far too long for me to consider him a creative genius. he chanced upon a particular slipstream of cultural fodder and fashioned it into something beautiful, something that resonated with so many people, and then proceeded to harp upon that same point over and over again.

at his best, Hedi is guilty of pandering, preaching to the choir. i don't think i can say the same about KVA, despite what anyone might have to say about his body of work. i'm at least going to give him a fair chance at voicing his vision through a solid, thought-out collection, rather than basing my opinion on an admittedly weak presentation meant to keep DH on-schedule.

Totally agree. At this point the formula is dated. Why do people persist to hold on to what in my opinion are some of the least "Dior" moments for Dior Homme? What is luxurious about overpriced sneakers, hoodies, graphic tees and a dozen variety of denim washes? A brand like Dior should be producing things that are luxurious. Right now if you wanted to you could walk right into H&M or Zara and create a Hedi look on a budget.

Don't get me wrong I am a fan of the brand and Hedi, but at this point what he had done seemed stagnant and stale. I though FW '06 was breathe of fresh air and seemed to me as a signal that Hedi would be returning to form (pre VoTC Dior), but the next seasons was a major let down comparatively speaking for me. I understand the reason this look is so ubiquitous is like OMC said, what he did resonated with so many. However, he kept mining the same source and if you keep looking to the same place you're going to get the same thing.

Other brands do use pima cotton yarn for sweaters. For example Polo has pima cotton sweaters avaiable right now.

At least most of who are polarized over Kanye can at least agree on the fact that these shoes are ugly.

the pronounciation is:

cum

day

gar (the a is ponoucedlike the a in 'camera')

son (like supersonic.. it's not sonne but son)

(my examples are lame)

Thanks, I know how to pronounce it though. I was just referencing a previous post about how Kanye fucked it up on the radio.

What makes pima cotton soft is length of the fibers (just like cashmere). It is not the properties of the fiber/fabric that causing the problems people are talking about (losing shape, holes, etc), but more likely the gauge (thickness) of the fabric and/or any washing treatment the garment has gone through before you purchased it and/or afterwards.

I'm starting to get the impression that people here are casual hip hop listeners. Like I and many have said, bragging about what you have and in many cases don't really have is something that has been going on for probably as long hip hop has been around. I'm sure tons of people on the board fuck up names of brands they love. I'm also sure many a French people wouold probably think the way many of us non French speakers pronounce CdG. I mean it's a french phrase/name. I bet even people in Japan would screw it up too considering the katakana.

I don't know what Kanye CD's you guys are listening to, but I don't find that most of his content is bragging. Being angry at a rapper for bragging is like being about the sun being hot...

I still disagree on this one. I mean, I can think of tons of times artist have adopted brands and probably have known nothing about them or their history, however only because they were consider cool, different, and/or luxurious in some circle (streetwear somewhere else like Japan, amongst the high fashion sect, etc.) Plus, name dropping labels is nothing new, he's just doing what has been going on since what seems like forever.

Just off the top of my head I can think of a couple of labels that fit the above description.

Coogi

Evisu

Gucci shoes (the 80's one that Jay-Z copied for S. Carters)

LV (especially in the 80's when everyone was putting LV on everything)

Versace

Chanel

I mean, how is it any different from when Big was name dropping Versace? Is it because you believe Kanye acts like he really knows these labels? Is it not plausible to believe that he actually might be a new found fan of the brands he's been name dropping/donning because they're exclusive? The guy does get invites to fashion shows (See Kanye in LRG hoodie @ Stella Mc Cartney.) But for the sake of argument, let’s assume he doesn’t and he's saying everything he has for the sake of sounding credible/knowing what's up. Even if he weren't does not what he says in interviews at least fake it enough for the average Joe to believe? I'm sure Joe Hood isn't going to second guess whatever Kanye is talking when he’s name-dropping Dries in a magazine.

When it comes down to it Fashion (yes, with a capital “Fâ€) on some level is about exclusivity. It’s the reason why Burberry doesn’t want chavs in novacheck and why people wait list for a Goyard or Birken. So, I see Kanye as just playing this up and also follwing a long standing hip hop/street tradition. To me what he saying doesn’t sound any different than what any socialite or magazine editor might say when asked about the brands they like (which may or may not make it anymore justified as all can be very annoying.)

Armani Exchange sells basic plain colored pima cotton tees w/ crew necks and v-necks:

http://www.armaniexchange.com/product/mens/tee+shirts/pima+crew+tee.do?asc=&sortby=&size=

http://www.armaniexchange.com/product/mens/tee+shirts/pima+v-neck+tee.do?asc=&sortby=&size=

it's not that he wears certain brands that many here are fond of, but the fact that he fronts like he's some sort of fashionista or has been down with this shit for ages. he hasn't even evolved. he dresses basically the same. it's just that the labels he wears would seem prolific to a certain crowd (and that is the sum of his narcissitic agenda) his "wouldn't you like to know" caption for this very shoe was rather insulting if not trite.

it's like how whiteboys get called out for trying to rep hiphop or whatever..

One could argue that being exclusive is an inherent part hip hop/street culture...

double post

Club Monaco or Zara usually does something like this for less money. You won't find anything like it in the stores now though being that fall transition/early deliveries are comming in now.

noooowwww you're talkin'. it just seemed like you were saying that the world

would be a better place if hood rats fiended for CdG coats instead of North Faces.

No way, I don't even like CdG, hahaha. I respect it in the sense of pushing the boundaries and making us question fashion, but personally would probably never buy their clothing.

that's fucking stupid.

cultivating a taste for luxury goods in people who can often barely afford necessities?

who are already the unfair target of marketing campaigns that make them feel

like degenerates if they don't own 300 nike shoes? what use is good taste when you

can't even get a taste of equality?

have some perspective on the socio-cultural implications of consumerism, please.

My arguement isn't about consumerism and buying high priced items, but about aesthetic and personal taste. Since many people like what they know know/shun the unfamiliar or different

My point wasn't that people in the hood should be desiring CdG, but that they might learn to appreciate another aesthetic. Not many can afford to own said brand regardless of living in the hood or suburb, but do aspire to own things like it/adopt an aesthetic might be similar

I also happen to be speaking on this from a personal perspective. I grew up in Brooklyn, East NY what some might arguably call the "hood". However, for high school I went to school in midtown Manhattan around all the luxury stores. I'm sure being there (among other things in my life) really helped to broaden my horizons. I now work at a Contemporary market womenswear company as a designer. My point is that at some level seeing something "different" on Kanye could serve as a catalyst for some kid who regularly doesn't get to see those things. Maybe prompting him to check out SoHo or midtown and open themselves up culturally

I just don't get why it even matters how or why Kanye happened upon higher end niche brands. Which is why I made the that last statement. It's as if someone can't evolve or change their style. I know many have done that here on this very board after spending time on here.

Anyway, this is fucking stupid. I feel like I've lost brain cells arguing a point that really is moot in grand scheme of my life. Wether you, I or anyone else likes what, how, or why Kanye wears something isn't going to save the world, stop the war in Iraq, or enrich any of our lives...

Muoko, I haven't spoken to you in forever man. It's good to see you're going through with your plan. As for your post, I think the menswear market is pretty specific when it comes to fashion. The problem is menswear is based entirely around function. Think about some of the most modern iconic pieces in a menswear, they all started out as functional pieces of clothing worn with a purpose. Be it the trench, peacoat, motocycle jacket, m65, etc. I think the 60's and 70's was probably one the most interesting period in menswear. Men especially in the 70's were doing things for aesthetic purposes. Function was secondary; best example, platform shoes.

I think you have to approach things either two ways. First option, create a menswear line that is full of interesting design, but know that you will only be addressing a niche market. I'm sure you know that most of America is pretty conserative and consider clothing a necessity with fashion never really comming into play in so much as buying clothes that are contemporary/appropriate for the time and functional.

The other option is to make really classic mens pieces that might not necessarily scream fashion, but resonate with a fashion foward customer (APC, NdG). Clothes like that I think visually have more appeal because there aren't any real bells and whisles that the average guy isn't going to get.

I would do the Chelsea if they were like, um half the price they're probably going to be. I mean you could get real leather soled Chelsea boots of decent quality.

I remember when I came across a picture of Kanye at some award show and he was wearing the Dior Homme parade/baseball jacket hybrid from SS '06. I posted the picture on Thefashionspot and people went rabid over the idea of Kanye wearing it. I honestly don't see what the big deal is about someone wearing a brand not as it's presented on the runway. If that were the case many of the clientel for said labels would be extremely slim (pun intended).

Anyway, I haven't seen this issue of complex, nor do I give a fuck what Kanye decides to wear. I personally like to find the redeeming quality in him choosing to don brands that the typical kid in the hood isn't seeing on regular basis. What might that be? Helping in the development of a taste that extends beyond homogenious look that probably dominates said kid's neighborhood. Sometimes the snobery of this place is laughable. I'm sure everyones been in selvage and CdG since they were fetuses, I know I was...

The gold high tops are ridiculous. I'm definitely considering scooping up a pair when they drop. I've recently become obsessed with owning a pair of gold footwear

I know, no one ever said money could by style or good taste.

The shoes remind me of a male version of Balenciaga's "Lego" shoes and boots

I think both look terrible

I looked for the lanvin loafers, but there were no where in sight. I did however manage to snag a pair of Dior Homme boots marked down from $690 to $330 with my new Barney's card discount.

How much are the lanvin loafers? Also did they have any of the sneakers?

Well, I think that we have to remember this is a business. I'm sure there's a sku plan that gets followed by the Dior design team. A sku plan for those that don't know is a guide put together most likely by the sales team of the brand. It gives a run down of what should be produced based on past wholesale buys. Those things; safari jacket, trench, etc. will never not be offered in the showroom because they're obvious go to sales pieces for the brand regardless what's shown for the runway presentation. Also, they're part of the aesthetic/brand identity that has been established.

I'm starting to think that this may be the last time we see those things or see them as they are. There's the possibility that come next spring KVA will put out a collection with a full vision/full line (instead of one aspect like this season) that doesn't include those things. I guess only time will tell.

Alterion, you're half right. Things do "drop" at major retail. They're set shipping dates for certain pieces which for instance may be considered transitional fall pieces (buy now wear now). I don't think anyone in the store with the exception of maybe the main manager will know what may be allocated to the store each specific shipment.

However you're right in the sense that there's probaby so much volume comming into a retail store like Uniqlo that to know what exactly might be included in a specific shipment would be next to impossible.

Can anyone provide a quick rundown of the new shit at the SoHo store?

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Liz Claiborne still has a menswear collection. I happen to be an employee at Liz Claiborne owned brand (Laundry by Design). Liz owns tons of brands including Encye and DKNY jeans

I used to work at APC NYC store Fall/Winter of 2005. I even met Fade to Black when I worked there. I never dared to post that I worked there on here, I could just imagine the flood of private messages. I know Mouko used to tell me how much people would message him about shit and he didn't even work at a store.