AlientoyWorkmachine

Sporting a Tender tux today so thought I would post. William's pieces are some of my favorite out there and these 129s are one of my two main cold season pairs for the past year (the other being a pair of Mister Freedoms). This type 900 also got a fair amount of wear this past season - but not a whole lot to show on either of them yet just because normal activity level (for obvious reasons) hasn't been what it is in normal years.

Also Bill if you're reading - as a photographer I love that you get wacky in the photoshoots for your collections. Fun stuff.  

Funny I've had their site up eyeing their knits lately. I really like the looks of some of stuff that both Cottle and them do - and the knits aren't as insane as the denim prices. But it's still nothing to sneeze at. The sort of thing maybe I buy one piece of a brand every few years or something. I wonder if they focus more on jeans and therefore some more affordable options. 

On 4/21/2021 at 10:14 AM, chicote said:

Absolutely love that Jameson quote bartleby, his analysis of the neoliberal / postmodern end of history is among the few theories I learned in university that i still regularly apply and reference in my life today. I really think he, silvia federici, fromm and marcuse, et al should be required reading for students today, all of whom have authored work that I believe is among the most readily taken up by the self-referential young mind. For me they were so effective at demystifying the root causes of the anxiety, confusion, anger and apathy that I see afflicting the vast majority of my generation and, I’m sure, all generations of young people from here on... not to mention providing a ready answer to the question “why is everyone wearing low-rise flares again?” that I got from a tattoo client yesterday 

Hmm - where/when were you at university? Because this stuff is required reading in a lot of R-1 or adjacent humanities programs. I love getting into the weeds with some of this stuff, but I'm skeptical as to how some of this stuff ages or will age. Arguably a lot of this postmodernist theory has played a fundamental role in the extreme polarization that we're seeing in the U.S. and a lot of "western" countries. I see people cling to their explanations of how things are just as zealously as any other mystical belief system. That is not a good thing in a pluralistic society. Marcuse in particular leaves little to the imagination - and while I don't disagree with the premise of a lot of the post-modernists (at least, the ones that I am familiar with) - and I do think a lot of them have been interpreted far beyond their actual words - I'm almost to the point to where I think they need to back and start requiring some political philosophy from...um...other points of origin. Stay skeptical of anything or anyone that purports to explain how things work in neat and concise way. 

22 minutes ago, goodrain said:

I think what he did is brilliant

 

Ha well shucks, I was considering doing exactly this. I still may - I have to think there are probably a few pair floating around like that. 

54 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

You’ll be more excited about them once you remove those surplus arcs.

Ha, I'm not exactly in pursuit of the most accurate repro though - I'll actually probably do something a little funky with them. I was more just drawn to the cut/dimensions and curiosity about the new denim. I just don't love how aggressive the first wash they do is (wish I could have sourced these raw), and the pocket bags just a little smaller/flimsier - I've been spoiled a bit in that regard I suppose - especially by my 129's. I do like how these fit - surprisingly wish the rise was a touch higher and overall they were a bit more generous - but the waist/thighs were sized spot on which is what I care about most. Overall quite pleased with them though.

12 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

That's exactly how I feel. I love the feeling of new denim and like faded pairs but mostly I stuck in the "no man's land"

This is why I keep telling myself I'm putting a moratorium on new pairs - and currently failing. I tried that to start 2020 and was doing fine for awhile, and then this whole bug came which took away a lot of activity and gave me way more time to expand my knowledge of what's out there. Less denim, more active in the before times made for better fading and better, fewer jeans. Total opposite now, with the added benefit/complexity of a bit more disposable income - gonna try that moratorium again in earnest now that I've got my shots, a big move is coming, and life isn't quite as small as it was 6 months ago. I'm in that no man's land on essentially every pair I've got right now - every one of them just needs another 6-12 months.

3 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Well i did say i read the article "some time ago"

..and it's not entirely down to the factors noted above, other factors include Levi's support for gun control ect..

Bartles links are not working for me but the article will be easily found via GQ or WSJ ect...

Yes sorry I missed that. But I got curious:

https://www.gq.com/story/political-fashion-fatigue

The history and cultural alignment of American denim brands always seemed to me a mess if trying to patronize ones that specifically align to ones specific political/cultural persuasions - even to this day. Wrangler was started in/based not far from where I am now, where the old White Oak facility used to be (RIP). Not cowboy territory. Afaik they simply marketed themselves more cowboy about 80 years ago, but Levi's were the actual brand from the "West." Then again, the cowboy image in America has always been more more durable and widespread than the real thing - even in its heyday. 

Anyways...

Growing up I always much preferred the designs of Levi's much more than Wrangler or Lee, and that hasn't changed...my fondness for some MF designs notwithstanding. That's held true during all of my own movements along the spectrum of beliefs and political persuasions, which has been substantial. From where I stand the current versions of both Levi's and Wrangler are essentially the same thing though (not the jeans - the companies). 

3 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

This will brighten up your day Edwin!!! i read some time ago in GQ... research suggests, Wrangler customers have swung towards the republican party in large numbers whereas Levi's customers are solid democrats.. The shift being the result of socio-geographic changes, mostly found in the midwest where peeps tend to favor Wrangler’s cowboy image

Being from the Midwest (and shortly relocating back) I believe this has been common knowledge for a some time. Though I surmise say it's equal parts cost as "cowboy image" ...I've known some quite financially comfortable individuals who are quick to gripe about overpriced Levi's (while using Wrangler as the point of comparison), all while complaining they can't find anything good MiUSA anymore. Ha!

I'm actually more surprised if there is a swing as opposed to a more firm brand dedication now...

Almost spit out my tea when I saw this but Warehouse did a repro t shirt of a place I went to school for awhile. https://clutch-cafe.com/collections/warehouse-co/products/warehouse-co-lot-4063-benet-football-tee-white 

I did not enjoy the school and would not pay 1/100 of the price for it, but at the same time if anyone really loves this shirt you can find plenty of the real deal in the thrift shops in the Chicago suburbs. Of course the material and construction will likely not be as nice. 

3 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Please do - surly is taken 

I am sort of new here, so is that how things work? I mustn't have too many options left to me...I'll sort something though!  

Deep colored tux today

Tender / Companion (natural indigo overdye) / Mister Freedom midnights

Need to work on the selfies and avoid that surly look - really I'm just squinting 

@julian-wolf Looks like a fantastic time. I love being a new dad but makes me miss not being able to get out into the Blue Ridge this spring to go hike this spring so I'll live vicariously through this. Care to get out to Big Sur for me sometime soon? 

4 hours ago, cultpop 0217 said:

Can't wait to see the evolution on those double dark Mister Freedom.   The fades I've seen from that denim are stunning. Great fit. 

Thanks! These are the midnights, though I see they put out a double indigo. There are few coming through, hard to see in the picture. These already take more washes than I'd like, due to aforementioned infant. I love this cut though.  

Quiet Life / Tender / Crappy T / Mister Freedom / Cons / Infant wondering what's going on (not pictured) 

8 minutes ago, justintk said:

I am somewhat sad to say that not only have I not worn my TCBs in months, but they are probably the last pair of raws I will ever buy. The poor fit made me reflect on what exactly I was trying to accomplish besides spending money and I couldn't come up with anything... I expect this wasn't what TCB was hoping to accomplish but I'm just not cut out to be a heritage bro or whatever. It's too much work! And you guys all do it better anyway. I'll still check on the contest progress every now and then as I still respect the process and appreciate the passion. 

Ha dang you can go to a store to try things on though - I guess not contest jeans. Repro cut jeans work well with all kinds of non heritagey accessories though. While I love denim I'm with you that thinking of jeans as an achievement of sorts has always been a little lost on me. Aesthetically pleasing fades are a thing that happens with living life, but just like my grey hairs or my slowly deteriorating ankle cartilage - I don't consider these things accomplishments (even if the ankles are the result of very enjoyable and hard years on a skateboard). I find it interesting to see the lives people lead only united by an affinity for indigo dyed twill fabric. It's absurd on it's face but fun nonetheless. That said, trying to truly rationalize little passions or hobbies like this will usually lead to a similar place, which is why acceptance is the only way. 

14 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I wasn't being critical, i think jeans still have a future as something for keeping your legs in, but these larger wallets have a pouch for change and a flap for notes, they'll last a lifetime but serve very little purpose the way society is heading regarding cash.

I feel as if these things have been outdated for years for most people - sort of like massive and ultimately pretty uncomfortable work boots - beautiful patina or not. I could never buy one because using it to the point where it would actually look good would just be supremely uncomfortable and inconvenient which...why?

There will always be the few that really need what the specific tool offers. But there's the very real practical fact that these will indeed cause back problems over time if you're sitting on it all the time. I've also gotten similar length of life from my smartphone as I ever did with a leather wallet fwiw. They can be pretty hearty if you're not one to need the newest thing. I was admittedly rough on the wallets last time I used them consistently. I still have a small one - it stays at home often these days and when it comes out is in a jacket. Haven't carried cash for...years now aside from the $50 I found on the ground some months ago. This is in part due to covid, but even before then ... not often. I understand wanting to stay on the DL but sometimes it feels like trying to stand up in the middle of a tsunami. Encryption helps. New tools for digital privacy are getting better.

Denim though...I don't see the utility ending anytime soon. 

5 hours ago, cusswords said:

https://hinoya.shop/en/products/sc11201

 

Is this lot 201 a new Sugar Cane fiber denim? It’s not the Edo, Oki, or Hawaii and it wasn’t included in this year’s  catalog.  

Is this what they made the IG post on referring to as the "Awa Ai"? https://www.instagram.com/p/CNR7YwejFGW/ 

Says Awa is natural indigo - I think these are the same thing. Wondering if they'll make jeans using it. Is this something they did in the past (like the Edo?) and then are circling back around to? I'm not the history buff here that some are... 

20 minutes ago, kbuzz said:

 

Hello in the USA,  looking for recommendations for a black high rise straight or slim straight. NOT a relax taper.  Need a FR of at least 12” for a 35.5-36. 
First thought is the LF NYC Black Maria greaser but they are  out of stock and the thighs on my indigo pair are pretty wide.

The new SC for self edge pair look interesting but they are definitely pricy....

thanks 

TCB also makes a black 50's that look quite nice but the black 1947's might be my second choice. $240 seems reasonable for sold in the us novelty cane's to me. 

On 3/5/2021 at 4:05 PM, persco_ said:

I got very Cottle-curious a few months ago. But the more I delved into the brand the more precious they seemed and thus not worth it (to me personally) for the premium being sought. Then I walked away. This is where I think William at Tender has struck a good balance between what you framed as whimsy mixed with attention to detail that just somehow retains an authenticity (probably misquoting you). 

I'm tempted by quite a few of their offerings. Not surprisingly, Tender is one of my favorites - but the cuts and styles are pretty different over at Cottle and I think would mix quite well actually. The premium for some things isn't really much more than with Tender either - sometimes price are basically comparable. I like the selvedge line also, though I don't hold classic Levi's and the accompanying details as an objective standard either. I think it's funny that a little selvedge line is considered loud against some of the flannels and other design elements often seen - not that those are bad, but a selvedge line on the pocket is hardly loud noticeable to most people. If I get anything I will report back - I do wish the jeans were unsanforized. I am more curious about some of their tops to be honest. 

2 hours ago, lee porter said:

Was just wondering people’s favourite actual denim cloth 

I will second a curiosity about this. I am in the market for a new pair of just normal indigo/white denim in the most classic sense - a 40s/50s ish sort of cut (I tend to just have one pair at a time) and am in no rush, but it's really the thing that would likely impact my choice between SC, Warehouse, TCB, etc etc. I can't try any from where I'm at. 

16 hours ago, rockon99 said:

Hi - glad to read this, I have a techart adaptor (not sure exactly which one, but it's for Sony E-mount) but sadly the autofocus mechanism doesn't seem to mesh correctly. I haven't put forth much effort in anything digital, so this has just sat on a shelf for quite some time now. I'm not sure if there's something special I need to do to make it work or not, but a cursory google didn't help me much. It's not pressing, but would be cool to have the option in the future.

I do, however, find enjoyment in my adapted Minolta Rokkor lenses on my Sony. I'm so accustomed to manual focus anyways that it doesn't bother me to use it on a digital with focus peaking.

If it's the Golden Eagle 3 version (I think)? You need to set it to work with the phase detect AF. This is why it works so much better than natively on a G2. And your camera is set in MF - there's more. It's a little convoluted. I magically found the blog I used to set this up in 2015. https://chadwadsworth.com/2015/08/30/913/comment-page-2/ In my experience the longer lenses (45mm and 90mm) yielded the best results - the 28 and 35 were more subject to drastic fall off. Good luck. 

1 hour ago, specialchild said:

Odd question for everyone. My beloved pair of 50’s got their first wash the other day (gentle cycle, no spin, top load machine, air dry), and the came out with a faint yet dreaded vertical crease. It’s hard to get a good picture of it. I’ve tried ironing it out a few times, but it seems to come back after a day of wear. Any tips on how to squash this crease before it starts to set in deep? Or worse, develop fades?

You can try spraying it (misting) while wearing - when damp the fabric may relax if there's enough pressure to form to you from just wearing it - with really starched fabrics I've had some luck doing that. But really, I would say just roll with it, it's part of the life of the jeans.