428CJ

36 minutes ago, Broark said:

I wouldn't take his post so seriously...just my two cents.
That being said I probably wouldn't dry clean a western shirt myself either. But that's just me. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It definitely isn't serious. It's garbage that needed to be taken out.

When you say you wouldn't dry clean a western shirt, you obviously don't see how little sense that statement makes.  That's stating that you decide whether to dry clean or not based on the general style of the garment. It means that you wouldn't dry clean a western shirt based on its level of formality (Western shirts encompass the entire range of formality), on the materials out of which is made (again, this runs the spectrum), on whether you wanted to minimize shrinkage, on whether there was a grease stain, or on the complexity of the ironing involved (do I really want to spend the time to do this at home?). Instead, you'd dry clean it or not pretty much based on whether or not the yoke and cuffs look "western." Not a good sole determining factor as to whether you want to dry clean or not.

And again, dry cleaning or not is irrelevant. I'm looking for hardware recommendations in the hardware thread.

4 minutes ago, cheapmuthafukr said:

Why would you dry clean a western shirt? Lol...

I mean, I see what you said, but seriously,  it's a western shirt. It's workwear.

There is much to say in order to completely demolish this post...but bottom line: 1) Your statements and implications are all blatantly wrong. Western shirts OBVIOUSLY aren't all workwear by definition, and even if they were, there is NOTHING whatsoever odd about dry cleaning workwear.  2) Your post is irrelevant. 3) Your post seems to be one of attempted criticism and/or insult only.

So, either direct me to some quality snaps, please, or flake the hell off. Preaching false blue collar aesthetic to someone your senior who has blue collared most of the members of this forum under the table isn't gonna fly.

I'm really peeved with a certain dry cleaner at the moment. Just got back two western snap shirts, and the pearloid snap inserts on both of them are marred. On the flannel shirt, the weave of the dry cleaners' cover cloth has been nicely pressed into each and every plastic snap button. On the other one (cotton/linen blend), the buttons are dulled down, though not actually "melted" with the cover cloth pattern. This is on top of the fact that their pressing job left tons of wrinkles on the placket and pockets, and they didn't get the stains out of either shirt. I took them to the cleaners because 1) I didn't want any shrinkage whatsoever, especially on the flannel, and 2) The cotton/linen shirt has a stain that I thought they'd easily be able to handle.

So, they have the shirts back now, and they are "going to call me." I know they are gonna shirk responsibility and give me the runaround. I am wondering if you all can help me with two things: 1) a recommendation for a truly excellent dry cleaner in the northeast L.A. or west S.G.V. area, and 2) a recommendation for truly high quality replacement snaps. All I can seem to find out there looks like cheap garbage to me; it's hard to tell what is quality and what is not, online.

Thank you.

21 hours ago, kiya said:

At Self Edge we actually have some pairs of unwashed 1947's at the stores, they're in random sizes scattered across our 5 stores.

If we don't have your size we can order it and have it pulled from the next production run they make, which happens every 2 months in Japan.  Just email us and we can sort you out real quick.

Thank you very much for that information/offer. Very good to know!

There are three things I would absolutely love to see from Sugar Cane:

1) Raw black 1953 Type II jacket, SHORT

2) Black Type III jeans, RAW

3) Raw 1947's, BLACK

I have the jacket and the Type III's. I love them. This black material is one of the best looking denims I've ever seen. But I would prefer the jacket short (like my blue version) and the Type III jeans raw (like the jacket), and the classic 501 cut done in that wonderful denim.

Did I miss these items being available somewhere?

Thanks.

Yes, I meant unshrunk, not unsanforized – just an imperfect use of terminology, not confusion. Thanks for the tip.

Does anyone have a good source for unsanforized 1947's? They are not stocked at my go-to retailer for Sugar Cane stuff (Self Edge). Thanks. 

On November 30, 2017 at 4:23 PM, kiya said:

Yup, in-store only with every purchase!

I got two of them the time I had 9 pairs hemmed at once! I have five or six of 'em now.

BTW, it was next-day service, and all were flawless. I just wish there had been some kind of quantity discount! Ha.

I love this thread, especially the first coupla pages. I can't wait to get a pair of these.

Oops. I was pages back, browsing quickly, and didn't notice the year. I just noticed the last post was Jan. 1 of this year. Please feel free to delete the post (assuming you are a moderator).

If anyone is interested, I re-measured my 36/34 '66's after 12 days of dry wear.

The only thing that I know has significantly changed is the waistband. 36.5" –> 38", or about 4 percent stretch. This has happened even with a belt cinched up a bit tighter than the waistband; without the belt, it might have stretched more. I regret not taking a couple of hip measurements initially. Right now, at the halfway point of the front rise, the hips measure 46", but I have no idea if they were initially a bit smaller or not.

These are a quite relaxed fit at the moment, and I am enjoying it while it lasts. I'll like them once they shrink too.

Surprisingly, I'm already clearly seeing the beginnings of whiskers forming. I didn't expect to be able to see that so soon.

53 minutes ago, kicks79 said:

How much did people's 66s shrink?

I got the same size as my 76s however I'm finding the waist feels a little smaller. Worried that I should have sized up one.

On my 12th straight day of wear on the '66's. Haven't shrunk them yet, and haven't measured stretch yet (I will at around a month). I'll see how they hold up to B.O. None yet, and that's a good sign. That means that for some reason, they are pretty funk resistant. Same with my black Wranglers; they just magically resist funk somehow. A lot of my pairs are like that, but some are not. There's one in particular that started smelling within a week or two, and needs to be de-funked every two weeks or so. It's a mystery to me.

I'll wash the '66's as coldly and as briefly as I can for their life. They'll work great for me both shrunk and unshrunk. For now, I like the relaxed fit, so I would rather see them slowly shrink over the years via spaced out cold washes, than get it all out of the way now with a hot soak.

On December 2, 2017 at 10:37 AM, JDelage said:

Wearing my LVC '55 for the first time. I like the purplish color of the denim and I love wearing a Levi's again. Two things I noticed right away is that the pocket bags are too small (for such a high rise cut) and the belt loops on each side of the fly are too close together (to comfortably wear a belt with a hard keeper).

1 hour ago, alvin_cheong said:

Affirm, the pockets are too small...I can hardly put in my HP in it.

That's weird. These two posts inspired me to compare my '44, '55, and '66 LVCs. All the pocket bags feel (and measure) about the same on my pairs...and my '55's are a smaller size than the other two. I compared them to a few pairs of my Wranglers, and the Wrangler pockets are about 1/2" deeper. I also don't see the purple tint. The '55's just look a hair darker than the '66's, and a bit more hairy/fuzzy.

LVC '66's, double cuffed a bit high

Jungle boots

Lee 101 Rider sawtooth flannel (white field), tucked

Lee 101 black belt with solid buckle (silver colored)

LMC Type II, black

2 hours ago, ushokmwn said:

Yes, I got the 1976 501 in 36x34.

I'm a bit above 6 feet. Probably it just takes some time getting used to such a rise. They do fit well around the belly ("waist") but I need to lose some weight. Belt at this height is also a new experience. I'm warming up to this cut and will wear them tonight. Not sure if I'm ready to wear them to work, though.

I wonder how this jeans fades at other people who spend the most of the day on a chair. If it fades as fast as it got reported here, do you get one large fade on the butt and everything else remains near raw?

It's very strange to me that at over 6 feet tall, you are finding the rise on those to feel excessively high. I am 5'11", 210# (not really tall, and clearly overweight), and the 12.5" rise on my LVC '66's feels kind of saggy and relaxed to me. They sit a solid 2-1/2", almost 3" at times, below my navel, and I'm a couple inches shorter than you. The '76 can't be that much higher (but if they are, I need a pair).

10 hours ago, swiss-jeansfreak said:

428CJ Wooooow this is an awesome list indeed! 

Do you still have some space left in your room?

 

I have half the jeans on stacked clip hangers, and the rest in drawers. I split the jackets between my place and storage, depending on the season (lined jackets come out this time of year, and unlined ones get moved to storage).

11 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

agreed. a fine list!

like range of type ii going on!

& rising sun ranch hand is a lovely looking jkt

Yes, type II's (and I's) are my favorite jacket designs.

The bleached Levi's one was worn blue when I got it. I bleached all the color out and darned some areas and fixed the buckle strap. It's going to get dyed and have the buckle replaced, but I'm not sure what color yet. I lean toward a very dark color, probably three bottles of black Rit and one bottle of color Rit. I'm thinking green, wine red, orange, or brown.

Rising Sun got the Ranch Jacket right: Type II dual pockets, but with Type I cinch, and Lee based as opposed to Levi's based. Their prices are nuts, so I leapt at one of their 40 percent off sales.

1 hour ago, Foxy2 said:

now that's a list - I like the representation that Wrangler & Lee are getting!

maybe I'll update mine, too...

Yep. Can't argue with the classics!

I actually found my lists, so I can just copy and paste the exact details.

Pants:

Jackets:

Vests:

YIKES!

8 hours ago, ushokmwn said:

Yes, perhaps that's the only way to shrink them. I poured boiling water over them and let them soak in it this morning for an hour (fresh boiling water every 15 minutes). Was hoping for some extra centimeters when I came home from work but they didn't shrink one additional millimeter. The length is borderline OK, though.

Put them on for a test stroll through the city. Never wore jeans with such a high rise. They end less than two fingers below my navel. I reached to get something from the sidepockets but there were no pockets. The pockets were much higher, near my navel. The cut on me is also very, very generous. Maybe size 34 would have sufficed.

If I read the thread right, you are talking about '76's. If so, you must not be a very tall person, because they don't have a high rise.

I would treat them as a relaxed fit, and get the waistband tailored in to suit you. Boiling and tumble drying hot help, but they can only do so much. That or add some extra rear belt buckles so you can cinch them tight.

18 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Citron Jeans..the only shop you'll need: http://www.citronjeans.com/j_1/order_buckle.html

THANK YOU! I searched and searched for that...but I guess I wasn't searching in Japanese!

Does anyone have a good source for a replacement cinch buckle? I need to replace the one on my Type I jacket. Thank you.

Arrived today: Triple Pleat Blouse (XL) and 1955 501's (34/34).

I thought these raw measurements might be helpful.

Triple Pleat Blouse (XL):

Chest (armpit to armpit): 24.0"

Waistband: 24.0"

^^^ As you can see from those, there is zero taper on this jacket.

Shoulder to shoulder: 21.25"

Front length (placket top to bottom, plus waistband width): 23.5"

Sleeve length, shoulder to cuff: 26.0"

Sleeve length, pit to cuff: 20.25"

Sleeve width, top (pit to shoulder): 11"

Sleeve length, halfway (13"): 7.75"

Cuff width: 5.25" 

^^^ As you can see by the arm width measurements, it has very wide arms up top, with a very heavy taper.

The weight makes it feel reminiscent of an oversized heavy rigid denim shirt, but the cut prevents it from wearing as such; it's a "light jacket" to my naming conventions. The 90 degree tilt on the grain is very noticeable, in feel and in look. The color is a beautiful dusty grayish medium blue, typical natural indigo hue. I'm not sure if it uses natural indigo dye or not, but that is certainly the look it's trying to replicate. The waistband is "tilted" forward – slightly lower in front and slightly higher in back.

My only complaint is that I don't like the leather patch, in terms of placement or content. Other than that, I love everything about the "blouse."

1955 501's (34/34):

Waistband: 35.5"

Hips (at point where pocket reinforcement top stitching ends): 42.0"

Thigh, at crotch: 26.5"

Thigh, 2" down from crotch" 25.0"

Knee, at factory fold: 20.0"

Hem: 17.75"

Front rise: 13.0"

Rear rise: 16.5"

Inseam: 33.5"

Due to lack of stock, I ordered these '55's as 34's, rather than my usual 36's. These are going to work out great, because they are such a relaxed fit, and I don't mind a tight waistband and hips on a loose fitting jean (and they'll stretch anyhow). These jeans seem to have legs that are about one size larger than most other cuts of the same size. E.g. most of the leg measurements are very close to my '44's and '66's, which are size 36's. The waist and hips will stretch out to fit me great in the end, and there is enough room in the legs that they will be fine once shrunk. However, I do want to pick up a pair of 36's in the future, so I can go full-on maxin' and relaxin' in a pair of '55's. Extremely comfortable fit on these! A straight legged cut, yes, but really not extremely straighter than my other LVC 501's. These mainly just have what would be called a relaxed fit today, which means you could look at them from two perspectives: 1) loose fitting legs and a regular fitting upper block when worn in your waist size, or 2) normally fitting legs and a form fitted upper block when worn with a sized down waist.

(@somatoform, you PMd me asking for the Triple Pleat measurements.)

7 hours ago, swiss-jeansfreak said:

And can you send me pics of your 2 Wrangler jackets with the 2 different collars?

I will try to get around to doing that, though it might take me a bit of time. The tight fitting big collared one is in storage, and the regular fitting small collared one is kept at home year round. I work 50–60 hour weeks taking pictures all day, so it's hard to find the motivation to take personal pix on the weekends. I do want to document these jackets in detail, before they break in much more, though, so it will get done eventually. 

8 hours ago, Geeman said:

Ping Andrew direct, usually pretty responsive 

I might do that. Would you mind telling me which user name he goes by?

The guy in the e-mail just said something like, "Use a thread that matches and is strong." Well, no shit, Sherlock. I was asking a specific technical question, not for general sewing advice. 

21 minutes ago, swiss-jeansfreak said:

428cj and spiraltoy. You both have an impressing collection almost for a little Jeansmuseum

Yes, it's kind of ridiculous, I do realize now. I am aiming to limit myself to only one new shirt, one new jacket, and one new pair of pants next year, and to purge at least half a dozen of my "lesser" pairs, and a jacket or two. I'm thinking about ordering a pair of W.H. Ranch High Ryder jeans at the top of the year, and hopefully they'll be done by X-Mas. Hopefully the anticipation for that pair will keep me on the straight and narrow!