Critical Observer

I’m not a big authority on the subject either, but the gist here is that the workwear (inspired) lace-up shoes/boots are generally derby-style, while oxford is a distinctly more formal, dressier style of a shoe/boot. 

My Nick’s Manito high-arch ”oxfords” have arrived on the old continent and are currently in the stern yet righteous hands of the local customs authorities; I should have them by midweek, feeling anxious/nervous as ever about this blind-buy. 

8 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

Wiki says:

"Oxfords first appeared in Scotland and Ireland, where they are occasionally called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle. However, the shoes were later named Oxfords after Oxford University. This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s.^[3] In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type". In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu."

Passive voice of course omits just who changed the name, though.

A shoe like White’s Retro ”oxford” is actually called ”derby”, identifiable by the way the quarters are stitched on top of the vamp, while an actual oxford shoe looks very different, with quarters sewn under the vamp. 

White’s Retro ”oxford”, a derby shoe:

An actual oxford shoe:

”Balmoral” is an alternative way to call an oxford. 

On ‎10‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 7:38 PM, Fadlan said:

Thanks, appreciate it. Wait, you speak Bahasa?! You even know the word 'gan' lol

I used to stay in Malang for a year as an exchange student and since then worked for my country's embassy in Jakarta for a few years; I'm fluent in your language.

6 hours ago, Fadlan said:

Whoa kinda rare to see Sakara on international forum. Greetings from Indonesia! First time post here..

TCB 50s / TSG SG7104 / Junkard Boondockers

Salam sejahtera, gan, that’s a neat outfit you are sporting for your first post.

For plain tees, my holy triumvirate is BPCall - Asket - Sunspel, with noticeable increase in price and rather minimal increase in quality at every step going from left to right.

22 hours ago, Critical Observer said:

Nick’s Manito Oxford

I’m waiting for a pair of these to arrive, hoping they’ll serve me well as ”lightweight” (as in, 1kg+/shoe ) spring/summer kicks.

6 minutes ago, itschrisb said:

I’m looking for something like this besides Red Wing who offers something similar?

You mean a similar style of shoe? There should be plenty around, like Nick’s Manito Oxford, White’s Retro Oxford, Wesco JH Classic to name a few.

No idea why Americans call them oxfords, mind. 

Cinch is not a common feature by a longshot

Lee 101 Cinch Tapered, however...

- 13,5” front rise in size 36

- 14,5” leg opening in size 36

- cinch back

- super-badass denim, fadez for dayz

You should forget about the idea of reading much into such descriptions, as they are entirely manufacturer-/marketing-dependent and tell nothing about the actual measurements or fit.

What you should also do is check the measurements of your best-fitting pair (those PBJ, presumably) and decide where it’s off and by how much, to then be able to proceed with finding a pair that’s similar-but-not.

It's one of the 3 threads where you posted this question (not this one, so it leaves 2).

59 minutes ago, kbuzz said:

Anywhere you can get measuments in the Lees?

 

By asking directly from the store. Cultizm are very accommodating with this and their measurements are accurate; with others, buyer beware... Although I'm guessing @bartlebyyphonics was referring to Lee Japan stuff that I know nothing about.

By contrast, there are no really baggy models in Lee Europe's 101 lineup, there are only a few cuts and they all tend towards slim/skinny if anything... For example their main "straight-fit" offering, "101Z", measures less than 11,5" on the thigh with sub-7,5" leg opening  in size 31", with a bit of variance between versions using different fabrics. "101S" is more tapered still and "Tapered" extremely so, the latter with a roomy top-block, however. Z and S sport lowish front rise while Tapered is very high rise by today's standards. Sadly (if predictably) no natural indigo available either, but their denims are solid in general.

>Read about the sashiko bomber on SuFu
>Head over to R&H to check it out
>Notice, that size S is already out of stock
>First thought: "Ah, that Niro..."

2 hours ago, kevypf597 said:

A film of what?

1 hour ago, l13902733261 said:

Red Wing Huntsman or White's Bounty Hunters Natural CXL? 

White’s

The Naked&Famous inflatable scratch&sniff denim with glow in the dark selvedge-line, that can be turned into a life raft that smells of peppermint.

I believe it came in Weird Guy fit so regrettably no flares to round it off.

4 hours ago, i_denim said:

However, if it's $89, that's still a third the price of any decent selvedge denim.

Bourbon with a slice of hyperbola on the side, sir? 

8 minutes ago, i_denim said:

We’re all jeans in the 40s/50s fairly high rise? How did we get to the current situation where guys are expected to wear women’s jeans with a rise of 11 inches?

is warehouse lot800 genuinely high rise?

i am so angry at my first pair of FH3012 ending up at 11.5 inch front rise after washing. Am I supposed to leave the boys at home?

If a high rise pair with aggressive taper is the question, Lee 101 Cinch Tapered is the answer. 

Iron Heart 888 ís another great option for "adult taper" cut with a higher rise.

10 hours ago, ShootThePier said:

They are dark indigo. They’ve been hot soaked twice. They are darker than the S5000AI-10SP. They are also less rigid, Samurai cotton maybe? Crazy purchase, but I have a really good feeling about them.

 

 

Good stuff man.  How did they measure pre-/post-soak, any pecularities/points to consider compared to your other pairs in S710 cut?

26 minutes ago, Niro said:

@ShootThePier what is the model 2nd from right? Is that black denim?

It looks like the S710SJC19OZ-AI.  

1 hour ago, kevypf597 said:

@Critical Observer I don't think I have any saved but I posted some in the Studio D'Artisan thread a while back I think. Possibly in this thread too. I'll see if I can track some down. It's a beast of a shirt. It has held up to some major abuse and has faded beautifully, I think. 

54 minutes ago, JDelage said:

The D5335 is an awesome, awesome heavy weight workshirt. I also have the Suvin Western, and it's also a lovely piece, beautifully finished, but I'm not sure it's a *better* shirt.

On the other hand the Suvin workshirt didn't work for me. The arms were much too narrow (also, the chest pockets are smaller than on the D5335).

Thanks gents, much appreciated.

Now to figure out the sizing... Denimio and OD both have measurements charts up but they differ wildly from one another.  I quite like the look of the XL going by OD's numbers.

10 minutes ago, kevypf597 said:

Not currently in stock but I have one of these in an xxl and it has a chest measurement of 46". See if you can track one down. 

https://www.okayamadenim.com/products/studio-d-artisan-d5335

How is the denim on this one? I've been sort of kind of planning to cop the D5604 (western, in Suvin Gold denim) but I actually might prefer the cut of D5335.

Any gratuitous fit/fade pics you could share?

28 minutes ago, Niro said:

ahhh, I didn't realise 2nd were also releasing their own 20th anniversary S710XX 16oz samurai collab.

The 2nd’s own 20th Anniversary edition S710 sports 20oz denim.

Edit: browser refresh resulted in repost? Accidental, in any case. 

9 minutes ago, i_denim said:

What does the name “The Flat Head” mean? I am sorry if it has already been discussed. I am kinda attracted to the name and wondering if it’s a slang or denim terminology I missed.

i can only drink so much bourbon while I wait for some Japanese pair to reach me. Sigh!

Flat Head refers to engine technology and goes well with the motorist/Americana vibe the manufacturer wishes to evoke.

What did you end up ordering?