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julian-wolf

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Posts posted by julian-wolf


  1. Sizing up 2 from jeans to belts is pretty standard, & with the option to use different holes I’ve honestly never thought much about measurements / differences between brands—33 or 34 in jeans, 35 in belts


  2. There are a few different ways of dyeing with kakishibu that will result in different sorts of fading

    Like in the case of indigo, yarn-dyed fabrics will slowly fade to white due to abrasion—see Sugar Cane’s 285 or 302 (plenty of photos of worn pairs on Yahoo), or Kapital’s No. 5s Century Denim (I remember Banana Almanac posting photos of a few well-worn pairs over the years)

    Yarn-dyeing isn’t really the most natural use of kakishibu, though: it’s more of a stain than a dye, and in its traditional uses it would be painted on and would sit as a sort of protective layer on top of fabric or wood. Fabrics that are painted with kakishibu will generally darken over time with exposure to light and oxygen—I don’t have any examples of this from the clothes world, but I may have posted some photos of a well-aged face mask painted with kakishibu to the masks thread some time ago; googling for persimmon deck stain or persimmon leather stain should give some good results too 


  3. @oomslokop Thanks—thinking of something more jacket- than coat-like, but I can never say no to Tender & tacked that on to the list of recs…

    For anyone interested, the finalists that I passed along were:

    The Jelado and the Belafonte really got my attention—made me wonder if maybe I should be in the market for one myself…

    The FW Speed Demon from a few years ago gets an honorable mention, too, of course, but I can't imagine that tracking one down these days would be easy


  4. I don’t have experience with the DD ‘47s, personally, so I can’t say

    Generally, I think the TCBs should be a little roomier through the hips and a little slimmer through the thighs. One of my pair of 1001xx is much higher-rise than my TCBs; the other is about the same; not sure where the DD fit on that spectrum

    Hopefully someone with the DD ‘47s will chime in with better info


  5. There are a bunch of different versions of the 1001xx, but generally going a size up for the ‘50s should be a safe bet, so I’d guess you’d be a 34


  6. 1 hour ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

    nice pick up ...

    & would love to see / hear how they compare to your yuketens... having held yuks in the hand but never by the foot, as it were... wondering if there is a significant between the two in construction / materials ... [I have my suspicions but wonder what a detailed eye like yourself uncovers...]

    Will get back to you on this in a few months: both are still to new to say much of substance

    Generally, I think any real comparison might be tough, even with time, since these particular styles are so different—but I will say that, based on initial impressions, the Russells feel more honest—take that as you will 


  7. 10 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

    What was the story behind this? I've never heard of this before.

    The first round of ‘20s contest jeans, a few years ago, had Levi’s-style arcs that overshot the diamond stitch & were meant to be picked, very similar to the ones Fullcount was using at the time

    A few months into the contest, Fullcount got wind of it and demanded that all pairs of jeans were returned to TCB and disposed of; this cost TCB (still a pretty small brand at the time) quite a bit, & a slew of folks lost interest and didn’t end up asking for replacement pairs, so the contest ended up a bit smaller too 

    The whole thing left a bitter taste in many folks’ mouths—I wasn’t involved in the contest in the first place, but, like @conqueror, this made me lose all interest in supporting Fullcount in the future

    (As if to add insult to injury, they announced less than a year later that they were going to stop including arcs on their jeans all together…)


  8. Some jeans are just cut with less crotch room—this isn’t reflected in any of the standard measurements we take, and has mostly to do with how curved the crotch seam is between the inseam and the bottom of the fly, and how curved the bottom of the seat seam is near the inseam. I don’t have any pairs of 1947 right now that I can look at to check, but usually that’s what makes the most difference


  9. ^ Seriously—it’s wild how much thought is being put into attaching it non-invasively; if they’d noticed this in the Levi’s factory the conditions of which we’re going so far to try and replicate, they’d’ve just stuck it on with another row of stitching and moved to the next pair

    You’re spending hundreds of bucks to get a pair of jeans that tries to replicate the style of construction bred by mid-century factory conditions, false mistakes and all, and when an actual realistic mistake pops up your first inclination is to fix it and make it perfect? Just buy a pair of Cane’s or Warehouse


  10. @srudy Picked them up for a song on Yahoo, so I'm not actually sure which version they are. I'd been tracking pairs here and there since the 25th Anniversary editions caught my eye last year; those had a longer inseam than standard, which got my attention, but also a shallower rise which was a no-go. Since then they seem to have done at least a couple of the "standard" (vis a vis top block cut) 1001XX DSB with slightly longer inseams, but I'd never had any luck tracking down a pair for less than around $300 'til now. I think these may have been a special batch for some or other shop, based on the info in the listing, but there's no branding besides the standard Warehouse fare so I'm not sure

    @Josh'N'Roll Those look like beauts. I've been really tempted by them for a bit now—they also seem to have a slightly longer inseam, and some really appealing details. If it wasn't for the super shallow pocket bags I'd probably have jumped on a pair some time in the last week, but I'm not sure how many pairs of shallow-pocketed jeans I really wanna commit to at this point—these and my black 1001XX / 1000 are already kinda pushing it

    @Dan_F Here are the measurements of this version (tagged 34 x 32) after a medium-temp. wash & two days' wear:

    • Waist: 35 1/2"
    • Front Rise: 12 3/4"
    • Rear rise: 17 1/4"
    • Thigh (@ crotch): 13 1/4"
    • Thigh (2" down): 12 1/2"
    • Inseam: 33"

    I'm imagining (hoping?) that the waist and inseam each have another inch of shrink in them after a few trips through the washer & dryer


  11. Thanks all, really happy with these so far

    @Dan_F The rise is really properly high, comparable to the R01 (though the two cuts are shaped pretty differently, overall, throughout the top block)—happy to take measurements this evening. Feels great to be back in jeans that sit naturally above the hips. That said, they’ve done a few different versions of the 1001XX DSB at this point (tried on some at S&S that were cut somewhat different from these, for instance), so I’m not sure whether these will match up with the ones Self Edge is stocking 

    edit: Just looked at the Self Edge site, & those are def. a very different version of the 1001XX than these

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