keybladehero

8 hours ago, mpukas said:

The basic sentiment of my ramble is that durability is not the primary concern of Japanese denim makers, and the character of worn Cone denim, partially due to  unintentionally irregularity, influences many denims they create. Some more than others. I didn't say or try to imply they are all trying to recreate Cone denim exactly. In Weaving Shibusa Kobayashi-san talks about his first pair of Levi's, and how he developed his own brand's denim. From what I infer he was influenced and inspired on some level by the characteristics of his Cone denim jeans. Obviously his denims are very different to Cone's denims as well as any other denim. 

10+ times more durable is an intentional exaggeration... 

I feel like Kobayashi draws inspiration from the 1920s and WW2 fabric a lot....since they have similar vertical texture as the pioneer denim

On 3/15/2018 at 3:37 AM, zwer said:

After getting my 180z PBJs back from the repair shop for the 4th time, only to find a hole in the left pocket bag, it's got me to wondering - is the quality argument that we all make really true?

I've had my x13s since last December and probably have between 5-6 months of wear days on them. My first repair came after 3 months in. The crotch was reinforced, but it puts extra stress on the edges of the repair fabric and that's where new holes develop.

DOn't get me wrong - I'm not complaining. I love the jeans. I've loved them since trying them on and I love them now that they're kind of beat. But are they of high quality? That I'm not so sure of.

Didn't want to put this in the PBJ thread because I don't want to turn people off the brand (I've had similar/worse experiences with Iron Heart 18oz and 25oz).

Is it because you put your phone into your left pocket bag? Generally they are not like chinos or dress pants with slash pocket. I have not met any pants with slash front pockets blow out with phone. Usually I put my phone on my backpockets when I stand, and take them out put on the table when I sit as not to damage the denim fabric.

As for crotch, I think it's just a sizing issue. I have a pair of 14oz xx013 worn more than 365 times but no signs of blowout. A slightly looser fit will help out a lot

all of the original levis before 1970s

22 hours ago, Evry1lovej said:

I thought the same too! It has some nice fades, but some fade way too quickly. 

 

When you mean vertical fading, you mean that line in front and back that’s more white in the thigh area right. 

This is the vertical fading from 011 from the wiki. Every jeans have vertical fading including the 013 but the 011 is heavily exaggerated more. I suggest you see the pbj wiki carefully, there’re a lot of fade and texture pics of the 14.5oz fabric (003, 005, 013) and 13oz (011) fabric. From there you should be able to determine which fabric you like more.

11 hours ago, Evry1lovej said:

What do you prefer

Overall I prefer xx013. If the left hand twill isn’t too crazy with its vertical falling I will definitely prefer xx011 more as I like its faded color more.

This is how the 011 fades. Notice how hard it is to see the grey weft without cuffing. 

http://www.purebluejapan-wiki.com/wiki/Models:_XX_011

This is how the 003. 005 and 013 fades http://www.purebluejapan-wiki.com/wiki/Models:XX-003

51 minutes ago, Evry1lovej said:

How different is the grey weft compared to the white weft on between the 011 and 013? 

It’s just different in colour that’s all. The 011 is left hand twill while the 013 is right hand twill. The warp of the 011 tend to fade a lot faster and real intense vertical falling with brighter and more vibrance blue colour compare to the 013. The 013 fades into a clean blue looking color but it is less vibrance and more vintage looking 

x011 uses left hand twill

Any hemming expert here? Can the 11500G create better roping than 43200G?

Jofo your levis have a really really nice faded blue color. I think not many worn in repro fabrics have this color.

Pioneer denim still my favourite. The vertical falling on the pioneer seems to be more irregular whereas the RJB vertical falling is like programmed to make it more regular and longer. Anyway I still like them more than denim with cross-hatch texture. It's easy to tell whether is the fabric gonna fade to cross-hatch texture or not if they are super slubby like Strike Gold or Oni. Some of the less slubby fabric such as Stevenson Overall Co, Ooe Yofukuten are more subtle, you can only tell they have the cross-hatch texture after fading them for 6 months. Maybe I'll pick up Conners Sewing Factory WW2 model after retiring my flat head since they have lovely irregular vertical texture too.

looks like the 60s have a very subtle and inconsistent vertical falling texture! It's like a wonder to me!

You can’t return the jeans once you soak it. Anyway recommend you to machine wash then 40 Celsius full cycle to get all the shrinkage out. Waist should shrink at most 2 inches. Colder climate countries tend to hot soak their jeans with hot running tap water... but since you are in India you probably don’t have hot tap water. You can try fill a bucket of hot water but the temperature will cool down and wouldn’t be as effective as continuous running hot tap water 

8 minutes ago, Evry1lovej said:

Thanks! I'm debating between the two since I believe the the most popular ones right now. Any idea where I can get it in the US? PBJ or Oni? The was a post earlier on the difference between the yarn. I like the blue and white much better. The NF has a bit of a dirty yellow color to it from what I'm seeing

The NF is actually clean white rather than yellow. But that area lost most of its indigo so it appear to be dirty yellow from far under most lightings. Up close it’s actually clean white. You can get PBJ online from SelfEdge, Blue Owl Workshop, Rivet & Hide (UK) and Okayama Denim (Japan). As to your question PBJ or Oni? In PBJ forum people definitely recommend PBJ lol... likewise in Oni forum. 

18 hours ago, Evry1lovej said:

Where can I get the PBJ 013 or similar cut? I like the white yarn on the left couple post up. What do people think about oni

My thoughts on Oni is they have longer slubs texture up to 1-2cm whereas pbj slubs texture are shorter (2-3mm) and shape like a mini rice. And Oni fade a lot faster than pbj which is something I don’t really like. Denim that fade too fast just don’t get the brighter brilliance vibrance blue that I like. Fast fading denim will only get electric blue fading but only for a short while... 

from the pic above you can see my N&F okayama spirit 1, it’s the same denim Oni used last time. It faded a lot more than my pbj despite me wearing them less frequent... and imo the faded blue color is just not as nice as my PBJ. Anyway is just a matter of personal taste and preference, there are many on people on Instagram commented they preferred the faded color of my N&F more than my PBJ. 

12 minutes ago, i_denim said:

Thanks, that's very helpful and that is an awful amount of shrinkage on the waistband. Did they stretch back an inch after wearing them?

I need 37 after shrinkage so I should buy what is labelled as 39 I guess.

it stretched to 29 but I didn't notice it until now

Out of curiosity is the cone denim sanforized? 

On 2/26/2018 at 12:50 PM, i_denim said:

Has anybody tried the PBE-019, are there are fade pics? Pure Blue Japan - Relaxed Tapered (Beige Tinted Warp)

This is the only pair in a High Rise/Tapered fit in stock with Okayama store at the moment & I want to use the store credit. Tired of waiting for the Japan Blue stock to come in.

I am not sure how the Beige tint looks in real life, hence the question.

The left side is the regular 14oz that comes in xx003, xx05, xx013 cutting. The core of the warp yarn is white so it will fade into a clean blue color. The right side is the pbe-019 and the core of the warp yarn is beige color, so it will fade into a "dirty" blue color. 

17 hours ago, i_denim said:

Does anybody have post soak/wash measurements for FH 3012 https://rivetandhide.com/the-flat-head-3012-straight-tapered-jean.html?___store=defaultFlat Head 3012 Straight Tapered

I seem to gather Flat Head shrinks more than anything else so upsizing is recommended.

I have the FH3002, but they are made of the same fabric. Maybe you can use mine as reference:

Before shrinkage: Waist 30, Rise 9.75, Back rise 13.5, Thigh 11, Knee 8, Hem 7, Inseam 37

After shrinkage: Waist 28, Rise 9, Back rise 12.5, Thigh 10.5, Knee 7.25, Hem 6.5, Inseam 34.5

Machine wash at 60 celcius for half an hour

1 hour ago, i_denim said:

Also, what makes anybody choose Momotaro over Japan Blue since both brands are owned by the same company? I am guessing the quality is so much better that Momotaro seems more popular at almost twice the price.

Yo... Japan Blue tends to experiment with fabrics more and will try to keep the price more affordable. For instance, one can get a solid and affordable jeans from Japan Blue like the JB0606 you purchased. Nothing too crazy, a very classic 14oz indigo fabric with white weft. Then Japan Blue also have the more crazy experimental fabrics ranging from heavy/super slubby/different color wefts/stretchy. If you seen the Monster/sapphire slub/snow slub fabric you will know what I meant. 

As for Momotaro, instead of focusing on these crazy fabrics... their focus is making the best classic indigo warp white weft jeans in 3 kinds of version (although they do make other denims too such as 0306-14sp):

1. The copper label one washed version
2. The going to battle sanforized version
3. Vintage label unsanforized (possibly loomstate also) version

Because they are the "classic fabric", you won't see any crazy texture or super heavy weight characteristic. But rest assure you will see one of the finest fades from them. The best part is their texture aren't crazy initially to begin with and once it fades...you will wonder how did such "classic and ordinary" fabric fade so well! The price also increases due to more expensive constructional methods. Eg you will notice the buttons and rivets design are a lot nicer than Japan Blue...and the belt loops are raised & tucked which is nicer looking and more durable. Then you have additional hidden copper rivets on the back pocket as well. I think the use of zimbabwe cotton in momotaro fabric also drive up the price.

i like this type of "classic" texture as opposed to those exaggerated slubby texture

out of curiosity, is roy making anything new?

a loomstate 13oz jeans

N&F always make unorthodox and interesting fabrics such as the upcoming puzzle weave and king of slub, it’s worth buying if you like them even though they don’t have construction details like “hidden rivets, narrow selvedge seam, chain stitch inseam”. Personally I like a classic indigo warp and white weft jeans so  I prefer to buy them from Japanese brands which come with the aforementioned details