clt3

What's with the small single cuff on the FC 0105? Isn't the 50's cut usually accompanied by larger single cuffs or large double folded cuffs where the chain stitch is showing?

Interesting interview Mike! I remember reading your blog from when you were still active before and it's great that you're still being active. Also cool because I've also been following unlucky and his work for a while now. I'm still using the belt i bought from him about two years ago and it's still going strong.

Damn it's not the best patch in the world but I don't think I'd call it absolute dogshit. But yeah generally the more unnecessary selvedge a jean has the more I dislike it. Coin pocket selvedge is the fucking worst

Anybody know measurements for real vintage type II jackets? Or any compaines that are closest to vintage?

Asking the real questions.

What's the post wash waist supposed to be?  If it's down around 34.5 to 35", and the 13" thigh and 8.5" leg opening are correct, I'd say the over all proportions of the jean are close to being right, just smaller than what we'd normally expect for a tagged size 38.

 

And in reality, if you and I where buying a vintage pair of 501s, we'd probably be closer to a 40 than a 38, and no way we could wear a size 36.    

Are vintage 501s way smaller than the tag size? Or is that only for the bigger sizes?

I guess people moved on from heavy denim or slubby denim and are looking for something else.

He constructs his boots with a hand-welting method, that takes way longer and the only people who do that are him and Clinch (Brass Tokyo). That right there raises the price a lot, it's much more fair to compare his price to the only people who use that construction, not people who use machines to make a good year welt.

Yeah makes sense. Around the same price range as Clinch.

Have you looked at Attractions (or Ed's upcoming engineers)? You'll get horsehide and an unstructured toe box for less. Role Clubs are nice but pricey, and I hear the wait time is about a year now.

Yeah man. Gonna buy a pair of Ed's engineers when he starts taking orders. Road Champs also seem like a good alternative for flat toes.

Just wondering why they would be about $200 - $300 more than most other boots for offering what I would think is standard leather. Of course leather is not the only variable when it comes to the boots, but does his construction and stitching and all worth that extra cash?

What do you guys think about Role Club's Engineers? I love how they look and understand that it's a one man operation so costs should be high, but is it worth paying at that price for CXL (whether horsehide or steerhide)?

I'm not sure about Flickr but maybe it might be easier for you to just upload an album to imgur and attach the pictures from there?

Can't comment on the IH jacket, but I suspect the McCoy's version will be way heavier than needed for your climate. I have the Buzz Demotex N-1, which is supposed to be comparable to the McCoy's version in weight, material, and warmth.  Where I live, on average it's 20 to 25 degrees colder in January here than it is in San Francisco (I assume that's the bay area you're from).  I need the heavier N-1, and really, it needs to be 35 degrees or colder to wear it comfortably.  The lighter, standard N-1 from Buzz would be better suited to a climate that's producing highs in the 40s and 50s in January.      

Setterman, what do you wear under your N-1?

I think the shell they use isn't as nice. Also because they're doing GMTO and also because they're made in China that probably brings the costs down quite a bit.

I strongly prefer the western arcs, but I'm keeping an open mind to the new ultrasuede. I don't like it and I can't remember where I read or heard this from but it's supposed to disintegrate and leave the area around it darker. Can't imagine it'd be better than the old arcs but maybe a beat up pair could change my mind.

Belt from Don't Mourn Organize. 1 year. Nice to see his website up and running as well. I'll probably get another belt from him down the line.

The Tanuki thing seems strangely manufactured.

No real interest here, but the jeans don't look horrible. Measurements don't look too good though.

I think at this point I'd be more interested in the company if names were named so we really knew who these "masters" actually are.

i mean its a bold move. i liek how they market it very western like. but then again a brand without depth or history i would shy away from it.  for me personally i need to know whos behind it and his vision for the brand and the products.

Yeah basically it feels very much like a western brand rather than the ones we usually buy from. Feels like it's really catering towards the Western market rather than most of the brands that are talked about here, which kind of throws me off.

the THC is not a good choice if you're concerned about it being too warm. On the other hand, the TD series I bought a year ago i think is definitely lighter and more comfortable. From what i understand the TKT is supposed to be lighter in weight than the THC too.

 

The jacquard tees are really light and comfy too, but obviously a way different style.

Judging from the pictures the TKT also seems to have a smaller neck opening as well. Will probably go to the FH store and try them out.

THC are quite heavy weight with a slim but boxy fit. Great fabric and a bombproof neck opening. Wash well and hold their colour.

I wear RMC also, RMC are great T's but are a lighter material and less boxy. Both hold their shape really well. Depending on which RMC line you are going for, Joe McCoys fit TTS as do RMC. Buco are a slimmer fit and I size up 1.

For hot weather I'd go RMC.

How are the lengths? I prefer something on the shorter side.

The THC T's are the best tshirts I have owned

Any comparison between your other tees?

clt3, are you talking about the TKT series? I've been interested in those too. No experience, but I'm sure they'd be great as all flat head stuff is!

Yeah both TKT and THC actually. Their shirts aren't really my style but the tees are pretty dope. I like FH but also thinking of getting tees from RMC if I go to Japan soon so I'm trying to gauge which one I might like better. Heard FH tees wear pretty warm so I'm kinda wary about that.

It seems as if Tanuki is trying to capitalize on different aspects of some brands that make them so popular. They're taking the secret denim master thing from Oni, the details with meanings from Samurai, and the tapered low rise cuts of brands like APC. 

I guess that's why I don't really like it as much though. Reminds me of those kickstarter brands that are trying to imitate other companies but ultimately just in it for the cash grab. It's different from CSF where I really feel like the people behind it are truly into making good shit and putting it out because they share in the same values as people who are really into denim.

How are the value of FH tees? Their new collection seems pretty cool and I wanna pick one up but it seems kinda pricey

Would love to hear about who says horween is better than shinki as well. I thought the consensus was always the other way around.

I've done both and it doesn't really seem to affect the fades. However if the jeans are starchy it can end up with hard creases which slightly fade the jeans. So when I folded my jeans they ended up with a slight line going down the middle. Turning it inside out slightly fades the inside, which isn't as visible.

Hey ed this is the cascade right? How much did it cost you?

Is/was Denimio selling their stuff below market value or at fair market value? If they were in fact undercuttibg the brands they carry I can see why it might be a problem. However, if they're charging the fair market value, that is, the same cost an item would sell for if you were a shopper in Japan, then I don't see why that's an issue. But, I don't own a business so don't know the complexities of international commerce. Ithink in order for B&M's to thrive they have to offer exclusivity, which some do.

They're marking down on the value of the products, which means that the consumers don't need to pay import taxes. B&M stores on the other hand, need to pay these prices, which means there is quite a price difference.

Any recommendations for shoes or boots? Might go to Japan for a week and was thinking of getting a pair. Lone Wolf seems to have some good value but I'm willing to consider anything.