cusswords

I picked up the 2021s from the recent Hinoya restock. I these are great jeans but I am in awe at the size of this coin pocket. It’s my only possible complaint with these jeans because it is massive.

https://hinoya.shop/en/products/sc11201

Is this lot 201 a new Sugar Cane fiber denim? It’s not the Edo, Oki, or Hawaii and it wasn’t included in this year’s  catalog.  

23 hours ago, Thanks_M8 said:

Anyone with the C/L 800s care to chime in, how are thighs on your pair compared to the cotton version, if you have experience with it?
Just won an auction for a pair and hope they'll fit

They are about the same. The C/L denim much lighter than the standard 800 denim so it should be a littler more comfortable.

44 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I thought the old Duck Digger range (going back 10 or more years) was almost a sub-brand specialising in either historic repros or ‘imagined’ models. Lately though, there has been a dearth of more modern DD models, which I thought used a common 14.5oz rough-ish denim, eg the DD-1003XX/1004XX/1001, etc. These all seem to have equivalent models without the DD prefix so I thought the DD is the denim used. Can someone give a definitive view on this?

I remember when their web store had sections for Hellers Cafe, Copper King, and others. I think they may have done away with sub-brands and they release them as part of the Warehouse catalogue. Warehouse also uses the same denims for different brands like Dubbleworks with the banner denim and Burgus Plus with the 14.5oz denim. 

Aren't the Duck Digger models just standard Warehouse denim with more historically accurate detail and Warehouse's wash processes? I haven't seen a weight associated with the new Warehouse denims. 

I, too, had the back rise stitching blow out disappointingly fast on my 800s.

They have the 2x1 military denim, a 12oz denim for the used-wash models, the new WWII denim and the oxidized version on the DSB S1000XX, whichever new denim is being used on the DSB 1000XX (I'm assuming we'll get a non-oxidized version soon), and they also have two new denims for the 1901 and 1915 that will be out this spring/summer. They also still release the Heller Cafe Non-Pareil jeans and jacket, but I don't recall which denim that uses. 

It wasn't that long ago that everyone seemed kind of bored with Warehouse's reliance on the banner denim and look where we are now.

LVC ended US production of 501s, so they might as well do a 90s collection to celebrate that. 

Was that the double indigo Mister Freedom recently used that I saw on a recent Self Edge IG post about the next SExSC? 

I don't know how they're doing it now but I know in the past Denimio was purposefully undervaluing their packages so they wouldn't get caught in customs. Practically everyone on the denim subreddit was telling other people that Denimio would mark their package as a gift if requested. You as the consumer can do whatever you want, but if Denimio was skirting around customs law to undercut their competition, then yes they are a shady business. 

Personally I won't shop with Denimio because of their past behavior and how they contribute little beyond hype and marketing to the denim community, and I'm disappointed to see just how large of a customer base these tactics have cultivated. Also, their web site is hot garbage. 

I have very limited knowledge about Evisu but I found a pretty remarkable faded pair of what appears to be No 1 Specials while looking for old 501s on Etsy 

Re: TCB Wool... 

I watched one of the TCB lives recently and Inoue said that (paraphrasing here because this was few weeks ago) he expects the Japanese mill TCB sources their wool from to close in the next 5-ish years and that wool itself is a dying industry in Japan. He said this because I asked if TCB had any plans for a Storm Riders style jacket (since they already do Lee styles) and he said TCB can't really count on his mill being around long enough to develop a new product around. 

I like what I’ve seen from Brick + Mortar Seattle and they have one of the better websites out of the major Alden retailers. I went down the Alden rabbit hole about a year ago and got some Indys in natural CXL after reading that they wouldn’t be using that leather anymore. I really want to pick up some Alden’s in the Earth Reverse Chamois leather some day soon. 

I’ve got a pair of 34W LVCs 1915 Cone Anniversary 501s that I’m selling for $175 plus shipping. They have been washed once (initial shrink) and worn once. Beware, these jeans have hilariously small front pocket bags. Otherwise, they are awesome jeans and I don’t want to keep any jeans I don’t plan on wearing.   

Waist: 35” Thigh: 12.5” Hem: 8.75” Length: 32.5”

Im not officially listing them but I also have some BNWT Cone 1966 501s from LVC that I would let go for a generous offer. I’m not 100% the waist will ever work for me, but I’m holding out hoping and keeping them raw until then. 

https://www.sugarcane.jp/news/577/

Sugar Cane has released a new 2021 model to their standard offerings. It uses the 1947 denim. 

https://blogs.chapman.edu/huell-howser-archives/1994/12/10/california-companies-californias-gold-503/

Someone posted this program from 1994 on reddit the other day where the host visits the Valencia Street factory. Would this be the early day of what eventually becomes Levi's Vintage Clothing as domestic production of the standard STF 501 stopped around 93-94? 

What's disappointing though, is that the seamstress interviewed describes being paid in "piece work" which is the popular garment industry technique of paying workers on a per-piece basis, which many factories use to subvert minimum wage law. You'd think a clothing brand that's been well established for 100+ years and sells the world's most popular piece of clothing could at least guarantee their workers a standard wage. 

Here’s a old photo of my C/L 800s for comparison. It’s one of the most textured denim I’ve seen come out of Warehouse recently and I don’t think these are the same denim. 
 

I really wish they would bring this denim back because I would love to have a lightweight Type I. 

If the translation is right the IG post says the 1901 yet another new denim with natural indigo whereas the 1915 uses the same denim as the 1001XX DSB. 

The S/S catalogue should be out tomorrow. Bears teased that 1001Z and the Warehouse Instagram posted a 1901 and 1915 today. It's been a good year for anyone waiting on some new Warehouse denims and models. 

Nice. I follow the shop Acorn Vintage in Osaka on IG and I noticed they got a vintage version of the denim N-3 from the F/W catalogue. 

Warehouse - 

Original - 

Hinoya's website and service is pretty incredible. It's only slightly more than 48 hours after posting I've got the jeans. Gone are the days of waiting 48 hours just to complete the Rakuten transaction. 

FYI- 1000XX Dead Stock Blues have been restocked at Hinoya in all but the largest and smallest sizes. 

Thanks. I picked it up off of Yahoo Auctions last year for $65 because I wanted a Storm Rider or 101-J style jacket. This is in excellent condition and I had no idea it was M-Series when I bought it.