JohnM

^ thanks b_F.  The pair of 1000XX DSB (34) came today from Hinoya.  FYI -- raw inseam and waist are both 35".

Sorry for the basic question, but does anyone know the weight of the denim on the 1000XX Dead Stock Blues?

^ thanks lance -- the N-1 SPL runs big.  Mine is a 42 and I almost went for a 40.  For context, I'm a 42 or 44 in most Japanese-made jackets.

Real McCoy's N-1 SPL (size 42)

It would be interesting to (definitively) know what the alpaca percentages are for various jackets, including original/vintage N-1s.  I wouldn't be surprised if a 50/50 alpaca/wool blend is the standard and pretty much ideal.  Having owned a few alpaca-lined jackets (FW B-15 and McCoy's B-10 and N-1), I can tell you that the warmth/weight ratio is extremely high.  My guess is that unless you live in a very cold environment, blending wool with alpaca is a good thing.

For some, alpaca can be a little itchy, which is why I sprung for the McCoy's N-1 SPL with the mouton collar, which is incredibly soft and comfortable and fully reveals my non-military, poser status.

1 hour ago, tomswallow said:

You right! In the end, maybe I'm just overthinkking when buying the most expensive item for my wardrobe.

At first, the term "alpaca blend" (Lot.1831016) on iceclimber.net let me thought it wasn't 100% alpaca.

^ I'm not an alpaca expert by any means, but in my efforts to understand various N-1s that I was considering (FW, McCoy's, Buzz), I learned that most fabric sold as 'alpaca' is not made from 100 percent alpaca fibers, oddly enough.  Alpaca is often blended with wool to produce a fabric that many still sell as alpaca.  It can be difficult to know for sure what you're getting and, sad to say, I'm not sure I figured it out with a high level of confidence for any of these jackets.

Never owned the FW N-1, only the B-15 briefly. Have the McCoys N-1 SPL with the soft and comfortable mouton collar — great jacket, runs big, and no itch. 

Flash, I actually love my 46 and 47 jeans.  You and others have provided good input and guidance and I have no regrets whatsoever.

Having read this entire thread at one time or another, I understand that the point with CSF is certainly not perfect sewing, but recapturing the spirit of classic Levi's from a bygone era.  And, yes, I want to believe that Konaka-san is sincerely trying to do this.  Because you and a couple of others here have met him and been impressed by what he's doing, I counter my agnostic tendencies with something approaching belief.

But I confess to having doubts -- due to high prices, upfront payment arrangements, and language barrier/communication challenges.  I also have this image in my mind (no doubt unfair) of the artisan working away diligently at an arcane cause for reasons related more to love than money.  Roy Slaper once said something like -- these jeans are my children, I want them to go to a good home.  What I do isn't about money.  It's more a project than a business.

Of course, no one should be held to this standard and there's no model that a jeans-maker (or manufacturer of any kind) needs to follow or adhere to.  It's no sin to want to make money while doing what one loves.  But I guess I like to know who I'm buying from and whether they're true to the spirit that they convey to the world (via Instagram or however).  As long as Konaka-san is dedicated to this cause of recapturing the spirit of old Levi's, including its sewing anomalies, I'm totally cool with what he's doing.  But if it's part of a marketing strategy designed to draw us in and justify high prices, then I just feel like a bit of a dope or fool, which may be the case regardless.

My doubts are related to ignorance -- I don't know Konaka-san at all.  I do know Roy (a little), have met Ryo and Hiro of Ooe, and have had many exchanges with Ryo of TCB and Seiichiro of Hoosiers.  All of this adds to a positive experience and helps me to know the people who I'm buying from.  Since I lack this experience with Konaka-san, I'm curious to know who this man is behind that One Piece of Rock ;-)

I do wonder about CSF.  I own a few pairs of their jeans (1946 first half and 1947) and I like them, but the prices are higher than they should be, in my opinion.  I don't mind paying relatively high prices for Freewheelers, Roy, or Ooe, where I believe the design elements and quality are truly a cut above (e.g., FW's flannel and other shirts), but I just don't see that level of quality or craftsmanship with CSF.  They do have the best packaging and boxes (for what it's worth -- little) and their dedication to specific model years is certainly interesting.  But I admit to feeling like I'm being taken to some degree ... and I really don't feel this way about most other brands.  McCoy's may be an exception, but they do some things really well (e.g., leather jackets) even if other things fall short.

I realize what I've said is controversial/critical and will admit that the language barrier and difficulties in communication may be contributing to my lack of understanding of what CSF is doing.  In addition, a few of the forum members here whom I most respect believe that CSF is at or near the top tier.  Still, I get a sense that CSF is less than it makes itself out to be.  Some of this may be related to paying a pretty stiff price up front with long wait times and little communication.

On 2/12/2021 at 2:55 AM, Thanks_M8 said:

^Or a lined chore coat of sorts. Way more versatile for fall and winter with the pockets and all

Yes!  Chore coats are extremely practical, but not warm.  A warm one would be a nice addition.

I've thought about the Tabby's jacket.  Nice layout, but a fairly short and boxy design, true?

Tudor Black Bay 58

Withdrawn -- Now that Roy is no longer making jeans, I've decided to keep these for now.

Roy original Test Lot, size 34 (includes details, no back pics).  Two pairs available:  First has been washed a bit less and, therefore, measures a little bigger.  Second pair has two dots on the patch.  Measurements are post wash/unstretched.  Fiirst pair's measurements are presented first.  First pair $310 shipped CONUS.  Second pair $295 shipped CONUS

Waist   33"  33"

FR     11.125"   11"

BR    16"    15.675"

Thigh   13"   12.75"

Knee   9.25"  9.25"

Leg Opening  8.675"  8.675"

Inseam  32.75"   33"

First pair:

Second pair:

Warehouse 1105 LTD, size 34, zipper no buttons, $150 shipped CONUS

Waist 34"

FR  11"

BR  16.25"

Thigh  13"

Knee  9.25"

Leg Opening  8"

Inseam  31.5"

Mister Freedom, Mocha Belleville, size 40 (fits like a 42, with the length of a 44), $375 shipped CONUS

P2P  22"

Length  33"

Shoulder 18.375"

Sleeve 26"

Iron Heart, Modified Type III SEXIH22, 20 oz., Left Hand Twill, Cotton-Poly, size 44, $330 shipped CONUS

P2P  23"

Length 29.5"

Shoulder 19"

Sleeve 25.75"

Sugar Cane Type II Lot 1953, size 42, modified with two internal pockets, $165 shipped CONUS

P2P:  22.25"

Length 29"

Shoulder 19"

Sleeve 24.25"

Yes Michael, northern California, in its glory, apart from earthquakes ...

Ha Duke!  Yes, I need to post some pics wearing recent FW shirts (with thanks to Mr. Mantee) and maybe a McCoy’s jacket (thanks to my own extravagance).

McCoy's is beyond expensive, no doubt.  And some of it doesn't fit all that well -- the T's are pretty boxy, for example.  Also, not much love for their jeans, which I've never tried.

But their Shinki leather jackets are pretty damn nice, as is their cloth B-10 (alpaca that is as soft as it comes).

Iron Heart didn't make my top tier, but if we're talking Apocalypse ...

#1

Ooe for their fit, sewing, understated creativity, and Ryo and Hiro themselves.

Roy for the sewing flourishes, Cone denim, and Roy's irreverent but honest take on most everything, including my personality flaws ;-)

Freewheelers for the fabrics, colors, patterns, fit, along with Mr. Yasui and Seiichiro Kato -- thanks Duke for the guidance.

TCB for their dedication, keeping it fun, openness to new products and ideas, and for Ryo and Hajime.

#1A

The Real McCoy's for the quality and comfort of their leather and cloth jackets (not jeans).

Resolute for Hayashi-san's elegant simplicity and style.

CSF for the fact that such a weirdly sewn and oddly fitting pair of jeans can be fun to wear for reasons I don't understand.

Fullcount for the softness of their denim.

Warehouse for their historical focus, despite the fact that their jeans are often too short for me and shirts too small.

^ Groundhog Day

^ I wondered that myself ;-)

I guess I could re-measure but my wife tells me my DCB is already off the charts (Denim Compulsive Behavior).

I have a bunch of Ooe jeans in 01 and 02, but not 03.  The top blocks are all the same, except for two.  The waist is trimmer on the Golden Gates and bigger on the Standard & Strange short-run collaboration.  The latter is my favorite, with #17 denim and its beautiful vertical fades.