Curious_George

i think hidden arcs just look tacky.. thats just me though, i just love how caspers jeans faded and im sure i wouldnt have liked em so much if they had hidden arcs. i wont join if thats the case... or i could take em out.

I agree, if you have the opportunity to have some pocket stitching why not take it as long as it looks good (and imo Samurai's Lee style wave is one of the best interpretations of that design). Eventually when the stitching falls off you're usually left with some fading along the stitched areas anyway.

It seems every contest there is a vocal group who want a full cut jean, and yet, look what ended up happening with the Fullcount contest. A full cut contest, even if there seems to be a lot of support for it in the discussion leading up to it, just doesn't get enough actual orders when the majority of this website prefers a slimmer cut.

If you want proof look at BiG's 0105C page versus 1108C---almost every size is still available in the 0105C.

I don't know why the 0105C didn't sell, but the LVC contest seems pretty evenly distributed between the slimmer 47 and 67 cuts and looser stuff like the 33 and 37s. While I don't think a full cut contest has enough draw on it's own, I think the last few contests have done it right by offering contestants the choice between a slimmer and fuller cut. At least there's some variety then. The prospect of another slim fit contest sounds boring as shit to me (and I have nothing against slim fits, I'm more than stocked up on slim jeans already).

Voted 130XJ (partly for the cinchback) but would also be okay with the 510. I already own enough slim/straight jeans so S0500 is no good for me.

Throwing S0130XJ and S0140XJ out as potential options for those that might want a fuller, higher rise, vintage cut. I think it'd be cool if like the Fullcount contest there was an option for more than the standard mid-rise slim/straight cut. But maybe I'm biased since I've already owned and sold both 110xjs and S0500s due partly to issues with the rise (and I think one pair as cinchback option would be cool).

If we're talking Samurai I'd prefer their Lee style wave pocket stitching over any arcs at all (hidden or not).

And I'm kind of up in the air on SDA's LHT. I haven't seen enough of it to be convinced it's better looking than Samurais (which reminds me almost of a crosshatch pattern when it fades, totally unlike the vertical fading you see on most denim). As far as brand popularity goes, I don't really care. I'm more concerned with the denim/cut/style choices.

I still like the idea of using samurai's jin denim sure we've all seen samurai but there's maybe 3-4 pairs of jins on this board. something different from a brand we all know. on a side note maybe we can use sterling silver hardware like on the yamato models, a cinch back would be great.

Yeah, as popular as Samurai is there really aren't many people wearing the Jin models. I'd love to see a contest for once that isn't using a model that's Levi's based. The Samurai Leepros are a great choice for that imo.

Samurai LHT is indeed awesome stuff. I'd be up for a contest if it included the 130XJ or 140XJ as an option. I used to own a pair of 110s but sold them partly because I found the rise a bit too low.

But between Samurai LHT Lee's and Eternals I'd definitely prefer the Sams. There's been enough Levi's repro contests as it is and while the Eternal denim is nice it's not really as unique as Samurai's LHT.

What is chromexel, exactly? I checked Viberg's site, couldn't find any description of it.

From Horween,

Chromexcel is the original pull-up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ao. Chromexcel is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases.

Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. Made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern Chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability.

How is the sizing on Red Wing boots?

More particularly the 875 boots?

To give you a guide I am a size 7 Wide in sperry and a size 8US in Vans.

Most websites seem to have size 8 in Red Wing boots as the smallest but I am not sure if that would be too big for me.

You probably need a 7.5 or 7 (I don't know exactly how the 875 fits). But based on my 1907s I wouldn't size the 875 the same as the Iron Ranger or GT as both of those are on a different last than the 875. While I need an 11 in GTs and Iron Rangers my 11.5 1907s are almost too short. Red Wing sizing is definitely not universal.

Those double leather soles look like they'd be awfully heavy. My Vibergs with crepe soles are almost too heavy for me, I can't imagine I could even walk with double leather soled Whites.

Those look great. I picked up a pair of those recently from ebay but they didn't fit Imo the 595 is a better looking design than the new heritage chukka.

I don't get why they're only offering E widths up to size 9 on those Roy Boots. I thought about that pair but since I'm 11E in trubalance (and I feel I could have used even more width) I doubt any D width would be a good fit. Nice looking boots, however.

Which Red Wings? They don't all run the same. But it sounds like you're close to the same size as me (12 in Vans) so I'd say either 11 or 11.5 depending on how wide your feet are and which boot you want (I take anywhere between 11EE and 11.5D).

GT is longer and narrower. I definitely wouldn't suggest sizing up from your GT size for 405s (except maybe in width).

great Vibergs Curious, id also leave the leather as is.

btw are those crepe soles similar to Red Wing 875 or are they Vibram 2021 soles?

Vibram 4014 (so basically the same as Red WIng 875).

damn .. shit's nice.. where did u get it?

I got them through Baker's shoes (but fyi Viberg also does direct custom orders).

I wouldn't dub those. Let that roughout age naturally. I think a heavy/dubbed finish will look awkward with the white vibram sole

And yeah, I wouldn't want them to become too dark either. Maybe I'll hold off on that whole business for now.

My custom Viberg Bobcats arrived today.

The color isn't 100% accurate, they're actually a little less orange tinted than they appear in these photos (they're cinnamon roughout to be exact). I basically sized these the same as my Alden 405s as advised and they fit great (1/2 size down from standard boot size and up in width).

I'm now trying to decide if I want to dub them. The cinnamon roughout is a little lighter than I was expecting and if I could darken them a little without losing the color completely that'd be great. Also, since they're basically a work boot I don't want to have to worry about babying them too much.

My next pair of boots will probably be Whites (same as picture). Im looking to get something that walks rather comfortable so Ill go for Vibram crepes. I noticed these kind of soles dont get too much love on SuFu. Anyone have any experience with similar soles. I own a pair of RW 875 and the crepe soles on those are not too great. They wear out rather fast walking on concrete surfaces.

Whites boots Northwest last, roughout, vibram sole

I really like those. A while back I ordered a pair of Viberg Bobcats that look pretty similar to those and should be getting them in a week or so. Mine will be cinnamon roughout with a vibram crepe sole. Personally I love crepe soles, they're comfortable and feel a little more sneaker like. But I'm not sure why crepe soles don't see much love here, it seems among the equivalent work wear/boot enthusiast market in Japan they're a lot more popular.

Agitate them. I think agitation makes more of a difference for shrinkage than how hot the water is. I soak all my jeans and toss them in the dryer now because I've found it gets more shrinkage out of the way. If you must avoid a dryer I'd toss them in hot water and agitate them either with your hands or a washing machine.

My 30s measure about 15.6. I'd say they do run a little big. I went true to size and they're pretty comfortable but maybe a tad loose in the waist.

I tried searching but didn't have any luck, so forgive me if this has been discussed before. But does anyone know when Levi's moved from using cotton thread to the more modern cotton/poly blends we see today? I know a lot of Japanese brands use cotton thread and I was wondering how authentic that is given the range of years in their reproduction lines.

Good fit indeed, although when it comes to pre-soak I don't think I'd want that good of a fit. Those look like they'll be awfully tight post-soak. I'm anticipating the 1st to see what kind of shrinkage everyone sees.

Just got my Red Wing 9011's from Cultizm and jeeze they're tight! Bought them in the same size as my 8138's, and lengthwise there's no issue at all. Leather do stretch, I know, but this is like wearing a pair of skates....

Anyone experienced the same thing, endured and came out of it without being an amputee? Do they stretch enough or is it better to return them for half a size bigger, hoping for more space sideways? Don't want to go from skates to skis though...

The Red Wing number 8 last is rather narrow and long. I have a pair of 1907s and 1909s and the 1909s are much narrower and about half an inch longer in the same size (11.5D). I think the only reason I was able to wear my 1909s was because I purchased them used so someone had already stretched out the leather a bit. But I find my pair is almost too long in size 11.5D, so I'm not sure if I'd suggest sizing up. I purchased the 8181s recently but ended up returning them because they were too narrow (same number 8 last). The Iron Ranger is also on the same last but it comes in EE, so that's alternative option if you like that style. I know if I ever buy another pair on the 8 last it's going to be EE width and probably a size down in length.

Picked up the gray one yesterday for free with a sweater purchase (buy one get one free is good for ts, shirts and sweaters). I looked over the blue and gray and imo the gray is the better looking of the two. The Gap also has a 1969 denim workshirt that's a little sturdier (triple stitching, heavier fabric, and I think I saw selvage lines) for 59. I almost picked it up but I didn't like that it had a button down collar. I don't have anything against button down collars but when it comes to workshirts I prefer a standard collar.

Thanks for the pics. Those do look fine with boots (although they're still raw, right?) I'd be interested to see how much the hem shrinks down after you soak them. What scared me a little about the 66 cut was how it seemed Gordon's 31s had shrank from 8" to 7.25". Since I'd be around the same size that had me a little bit worried (although I've worn my boots with a 7.5" hem before).