Charlie Delta

This could prove to be problematic, looking into it now.

Ayo, what's going on in this thread?

Ladies and Gents, the Poll is open!

The first round of voting will be for the following, please vote once in each of these catgories:

POLL #1

-CINCH

-NO CINCH

-TAB

-NO TAB

BUTTONS #1-6

Please note that while the poll allows for multiple votes, it is also an open poll, so end the end you'll just make yourself look stupid if you voted more than once in each category.

Aho, take it from here!

Ok, seems like the poll system refuses to collaborate, Aho, I've cleaned up my inbox, please get in touch!

Sorry guys...

Rummaging through the trash....

OKAY!!!!l!!!!!!

Missing out on some good jeans indeed Teegs.

Let me know if you want back in, I'll respectfully step back...

a close up of the denim, lots of character and still quite hairy before being soaked

An almost obscene look into the watchpocket, more on plaid the fabric below

Almost a MF signature by now, horizontal stitching along the waistband. The whole jean is stitched with a 100% cotton dark navy thread, hardly visible for now, but it will pop out once the indigo starts to fall. Also the new rayon label positioned on the extra wide center back beltloop

The incredibly clean inside, either selvedge or hand felled seams. In fact you wont find one overlock stitch throughout the whole jeans. The bottom of the pocketbags, made of the same covert cloth as seen on the Mechanic shirt, is even cut along the fabric's selvedge, this to prevent the need for overlocking or the very neat looking, but thicker French/English seam solution

The fabric used for the watchpocket is a deadstock cotton HBT plaid Mister Freedom found a small amount of, the majority of this fabric was used to line the sleeves of this seasons Mullholland Master, with a small batch reserved for the Dungarees watchpocket

Some more close-ups of the inside. The buttons are all black painted, steel donut buttons which will age nicely over time. The waist has a "Laurel" button while the fly gets the smaller plain style

An alternate way to feed the strap through the cinch shows the covert cloth lining quite well and it also makes for a nice accent of a different kind of blue

Finally, an Union ticket stitched inside the seam of the right backpocket, I had no clue it was there until it appeared from behind the pocket flasher. The pockets are all fully lined so you don't notice that the pockets themselves are actually made out of a lighter weight denim than the rest of the jeans

I figured since there has not been an in depth look at the MF tour jeans I'd post a closer look at the pair I'm currently wearing. Xposted from the Mister Freedom thread, per way of cottonduck.net:

The new Riders Dungarees made out of Sugar Cane's raw 14oz. 50/50 (50% cotton, 50% sugar cane that is!) left hand twill, SC301 "Okinawa" denim, with the pockets and side cinch in a 11oz. version of the same denim.

This denim has become somewhat synonymous with MFSC jeans as, with the exception of the 7163, all other jeans as well as a lot of the tops are done in this denim, however this is the first pair done completely in just this denim.

Pockets have been moved all the way to the side for more comfort in the saddle, and the ankle pockets first seen on the N-1K Deck pants make another appearance in case one prefers to keep the backpockets completely empty during those long rides (be it by bike, car or desk chair...) or just to be able to take that little extra with you when needed. They've so far come in very handy for me as I have been carrying my gloves in them when not on my hands during these cold winter days.

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

By now I trust that I can simply go for a 32 in MFSC jeans and get a fit that will work for me. The only issue with these was the length, as they are a fixed 34 inch pre shrinkage, with little option to let out the hem. With my long legs this means I could hardly afford any shrinkage in the length, but I still wanted the top block fitted. I briefly considered not soaking them at all, but in the end decided against it. Solved it by going for a short lukewarm soak in the tub and taking the bottom of the legs out the water half way through, after that yanking on the legs as hard as possible the moment I took the jeans out of the water.

This does mean that I have to be careful with washing these in the future, they will most likely only receive handwashes.

Line dried and then worn damp to shape.

The colour difference between the two different weights of denim becomes hardly noticeable after soaking

Fit pics:

Christophe himself describes these as a mid-rise, late 50's silhouette.

On me they fit straight and slim with a little anti-fit in the seat. I actually like the length and think it works really well worn with boots.

I do think that it would be smart to have a "long configuration" for future jeans with a fixed length and no material to let out, simply for the long legged folks out there who aren't as comfortable with short jeans as I am...

Card stock pocket flasher stapled to the right backpocket.

Sideview with the slashpockets and side cinch straps. The 11oz. covert cloth lined "Never Rippum" pockets worked directly into the lap felled outseams at the hip and ankle

A close-up of the steel "Buzz" domed rivets

what seems to be an inevitable side effect from sewing makes for an interesting stitch detail at the bottom of the pockets

"Bar tacked at points of stress" and a hint of red showing in the watch pocket

a close up of the denim, lots of character and still quite hairy before being soaked

An almost obscene look into the watchpocket, more on plaid the fabric below

Almost a MF signature by now, horizontal stitching along the waistband. The whole jean is stitched with a 100% cotton dark navy thread, hardly visible for now, but it will pop out once the indigo starts to fall. Also the new rayon label positioned on the extra wide center back beltloop

The incredibly clean inside, either selvedge or hand felled seams. In fact you wont find one overlock stitch throughout the whole jeans. The bottom of the pocketbags, made of the same covert cloth as seen on the Mechanic shirt, is even cut along the fabric's selvedge, this to prevent the need for overlocking or the very neat looking, but thicker French/English seam solution

The fabric used for the watchpocket is a deadstock cotton HBT plaid Mister Freedom found a small amount of, the majority of this fabric was used to line the sleeves of this seasons Mullholland Master, with a small batch reserved for the Dungarees watchpocket

Some more close-ups of the inside. The buttons are all black painted, steel donut buttons which will age nicely over time. The waist has a "Laurel" button while the fly gets the smaller plain style

An alternate way to feed the strap through the cinch shows the covert cloth lining quite well and it also makes for a nice accent of a different kind of blue

Finally, an Union ticket stitched inside the seam of the right backpocket, I had no clue it was there until it appeared from behind the pocket flasher. The pockets are all fully lined so you don't notice that the pockets themselves are actually made out of a lighter weight denim than the rest of the jeans

The new Riders Dungarees made out of Sugar Cane's raw 14oz. 50/50 (50% cotton, 50% sugar cane that is!) left hand twill, SC301 "Okinawa" denim, with the pockets and side cinch in a 11oz. version of the same denim.

This denim has become somewhat synonymous with MFSC jeans as, with the exception of the 7163, all other jeans as well as a lot of the tops are done in this denim, however this is the first pair done completely in just this denim.

Pockets have been moved all the way to the side for more comfort in the saddle, and the ankle pockets first seen on the N-1K Deck pants make another appearance in case one prefers to keep the backpockets completely empty during those long rides (be it by bike, car or desk chair...) or just to be able to take that little extra with you when needed. They've so far come in very handy for me as I have been carrying my gloves in them when not on my hands during these cold winter days.

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

By now I trust that I can simply go for a 32 in MFSC jeans and get a fit that will work for me. The only issue with these was the length, as they are a fixed 34 inch pre shrinkage, with little option to let out the hem. With my long legs this means I could hardly afford any shrinkage in the length, but I still wanted the top block fitted. I briefly considered not soaking them at all, but in the end decided against it. Solved it by going for a short lukewarm soak in the tub and taking the bottom of the legs out the water half way through, after that yanking on the legs as hard as possible the moment I took the jeans out of the water.

This does mean that I have to be careful with washing these in the future, they will most likely only receive handwashes.

Line dried and then worn damp to shape.

The colour difference between the two different weights of denim becomes hardly noticeable after soaking

Fit pics:

Christophe himself describes these as a mid-rise, late 50's silhouette.

On me they fit straight and slim with a little anti-fit in the seat. I actually like the length and think it works really well worn with boots.

I do think that it would be smart to have a "long configuration" for future jeans with a fixed length and no material to let out, simply for the long legged folks out there who aren't as comfortable with short jeans as I am...

Card stock pocket flasher stapled to the right backpocket.

Sideview with the slashpockets and side cinch straps. The 11oz. covert cloth lined "Never Rippum" pockets worked directly into the lap felled outseams at the hip and ankle

A close-up of the steel "Buzz" domed rivets

what seems to be an inevitable side effect from sewing makes for an interesting stitch detail at the bottom of the pockets

"Bar tacked at points of stress" and a hint of red showing in the watch pocket

this analysis reads funny...

Agreed;

Brand, brand brand...

Mister Freedom gets mentioned in this small article with regards to J.Crew elevating their brand from being a brand for people who simply need clothing to being a "cool" brand...

The way I understand it is that the fabric has to be wet in order for shrinkage to occur, as the dryer heats up the water in the fabric and thus shrinking it...

I did notice that one one of the items that I did throw in the dryer is after a year of use considerably lighter overall than another item made out of the same denim. It's still nice and contrasty it's just that the denim is a lot brighter blue through out the whole piece...

Not LVC but I'd say that this goes for all denim...

Hi all, it seems that was a small technical glitch as it remembered what people had voted even though the fields were reset.

Try again, it should work now!

"There is no God and we are his prophets."

NjlswoQIdU8

T0tiaVlav3s

I have the sweat in a M and while at first it seemed pretty tight even with just a tshirt under it, it stretches alot and now is perfect even with a button-up under it.

It's a short, fitted sweater and is supposed to sit exactly at your waist.

I'm planning to do a detailed post with fit pics next week if you can wait a little longer.

Get your Mech sweat the same size as you would any of the sanforized tops. It's "stretch to fit" and will be tight at first but stretch to perfect. If you get a size up it'll definitely end up too big after stretching.

I have the shore coat and sweat in M as they won't shrink and L in the shirts, CPO, Pcoat, vest as they were Raw and shrank a full size.

Rule of thumb, as Zissou is also saying, raw MF tops will shrink down to the exact measurements of one size smaller per Self Edge's

measurements.

Look which measurements would work for you and get one size up to shrink down to your size.

I don't know what's up with the one wash sizes though, can't help with that.

With regards to Jcrew, they buy directly out of MF stock so those pieces start out raw but perhaps get washed somewhere along the way...

I don't know if you've handled the CPO or chambray, I'd say it's somewhere in between those two in weight was well.

Now, I'm not used to Texas summers, but for what it's worth I do plan on wearing my Mechanic shirt during Amsterdam summers and don't think it'll be too heavy. Just with a white tank under it, and unbuttoned if it gets really unbearable.

Thanks for the comments guys!

Is the shirt the same material as the pockets for the dungarees? If so it develops a wonderful slubbiness very quickly!

I'm guessing you're talking about the lining of the pockets on the dungarees, as the pockets themselves are 11oz 301, but yes indeed, same fabric, and indeed lovely.

The collar facing vs the buttons facing. While the latter is the same indigo cotton as previously used on the chambray's, the fabric used for the collar is an indigo, 1920's deadstock French popeline that promises to fade down to a purplish black/blue. That second button hole on the tab is actually quite clever as it allows for the shirt to be fully buttoned up without being uncomfortably tight.

The popeline on the button facing, here seen side by side with the facing on my chambray, worn daily since January. The off-white piece of fabric seen on the mechanic shirt serves as reinforcement behind the pocket opening.

Subtly used exposed selvedge on the chest pockets. The offset pocket flap still allows for you to reach into the pocket and get things out,

but prevents things from flying out. Smart!

The button facing popeline returns to reinforce both the buttonhole and the fabric the small white shirt button itself is sewn unto.

The fabric itself, a "light" (roughly 8oz) covert cloth, is also quite something. Developed specifically for MF it was based on a swatch from a 1920's French shop-coat.

Covert cloth has been around since the late 1800's but hardly get's any love these days. It is a twill, but unlike denim which traditionally has an indigo warp and a white weft, covert cloth has a twisted "ply yarn" warp, one of which is white, giving it it's distinct "salt & pepper" look.

The weft is indigo.

Even on this close-up of the fabric it isn't easy to make out, but as the charming knot of "loomchatter" kindly illustrates the weft is indeed all indigo.

This bit of yarn, plucked from a buttonhole clearly shows what exactly is going on with the warp.

Up next: the Riders Dungarees.

You guys are too fast, was still busy cross posting...

But here is the post anyway, figured it was about time this thread had some pics in it again, heh.

(Note that the colour between all these pictures differs quite a bit, I found it really hard to capture the true colour of the piece. The indigo is super dark blue, but gets lighter because of the salt-&-pepper nature of the fabric. Under certain light the shirt almost seems to be a deep purple.)

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

As the fit is similar to the other MFSC shirts I own (a bit roomier throughout than the 645 Utility chambray but smaller than the "Liberty Issue" CPO) I went with my regular raw Large which, after shrinking, ends up exactly as a Medium.

I threw it in the tub with the hottest water from the tap, left it in for about and hour and hung it to dry afterwards.

Soaking softened the fabric up quite a bit as it got rid of excess starch still in the garment.

The shirt fits a little looser than the Utility chambray and easily fits a thermal under it but still looks great worn under a tight sweater.

It is again fairly long but this allows it to be tucked in no problem!

(While typing this I realize I should have included a pictured of how it looks tucked in...)

The curve of the back yoke returns in the clever solution for an elbow reinforcement, as seen below.

Triple stitched throughout the biggest part of the garment

Chainstitch run-off and the fabric's selvedge which is solid indigo, finished with a "salt & pepper" ply yarn ID.

Rayon label with stamped the items name and size. I personally was a bit sad to see the Naval Tailor labels go as they allowed for great customization, might have to add a name tag myself... This picture also shows how dark the collar facing is.

Union ticket and a closer look at the painted metal buttons, here still shiny and new.

http://www.nokojeans.com/

So this is what Begs has been up to all this time!?!