horriblyjollyjinx

Damn , good to see you posting again

Good to see you're still here! Been a while

just got a pair of Overcomer 051ss. From memory, both denim and fit is extremely similar to my 555 LVC 551ZXX. Bulging hips, and a one wash denim that has hardly any starch and gets all its stiffness from the thickness of the denim and the tightness of its weave.

Construction is very nice, again similar to the LVCs. This brand is probably up there with some of the better Japanese ones.

so whats the word on amsterdam? cool or too small? as dead as this thread? might be moving there.

nopppppppppe...

any chance of finding creepers in sh? dont care about brand.

looked around taobao and I found some creepers and also some shops stocking denim and general american vintage like bomberjackets/m-1s etc. not necessarily all shops from sh though.

so what are the best clubs for music and dancing? not for people trying to look cool.

I know of Shelter, C's, Logo, Dada.

Then D2 is the new Deep I guess? Is it any good? Not gay but gay clubs always have the best parties.

Is there anything else I need to see? And where's the cheapest food and beer and seediest bars?

Oh and is there some place to get used/vintage regular chinese clothing, like the stuff 70 y/o chinese dudes would wear? into some highwaist pants and some loose fitting sportcoats.

umm and is deodorant hard to come by in shanghai? I heard its not yet a commodity in china unfortunately..

and what about some good pomade?

the new 1937 model is just so nice. definitely nicer than lvc, probably nicer than lvc.jp, possibly nicer than Warehouse 700. Just think there should be more yellow stitching and less orange.

Today I saw an industry expert who told me a little more about what's happening with LVC. It sounds very exciting; as mentioned before, LVC is now part of XX, a smaller operation out of Amsterdam, headed by Maurizio Donardi, which should eliminate the big-company bureacracy and allow them more speed to react. There will be other new ranges under XX, notably the Made and Crafted range, which sounds intriguing.

I did hear some amazing details, of how they tracked down tiny selvage looms, made in Sweden and now installed in Portugal, for all the labels. We also discussed recent concerns about issues like sizing, and the early rivets, which he will pass on.

The big news is the source of the fabric. I believe that Cone 1915 jean was a kind of test-bed for what they're doing from now on, which is to source all the LVC fabric from Cone (except the 505, which is Sanforized and will still use Kaihara denim). Just as they developed a 1915 replica fabric for the 1915, so will they do for the earlier denim (if they haven't already).

From some conversations I've had, this will be an improvement, for from gossip with various people (nothing official) I've heard that the buying process for some Kurabo denim has not been as rigorous as that for the later designs. I say this with reference to models like the Nevada and XX replicas, whose denim has never impressed me. AS for the really good Kurabo, like the 1920s 201, it remains to be seen how the Cone version comes out. While I like the colour of the existing 201, and the dungarees etc, I don't think it's authentic, the originals I've seen show much more striaton, for example. I don't know if Cone will do a natural indigo denim, like that used on the (underwhelming) 1st Blue Jean, it's possible, but I get the feeling they haven't discussed that as yet.

AS we've already discussed here, LVC have spec'd new, obscure fabric such as the brick-coloured cotton duck, now in a true selvage; I am hoping they will do the same with the other obscure early models. I forgot to mention my personal request, for the sliver and denim spring bottom pants, perfect for the Victorian gentleman (NB this is fantasy, no news they'll actually reintroduce them).

All the dry products will now be made in the USA - including products destined for Japan. So, if you're a fan of a particular Japan repro, or the existing 201, get them now. It is certainly true that some of the details on the Japanese versions, like cotton thread as opposed to poly core, are superior, but it transpires that the Japanese market preferred the made-in-USA jeans in any case (in this respect, it's a reversion to the old practice, as Japan sourced much of its range from the US until the last three or four years, which coincide with a lull in the innovation with LVC).

What else?? I heard news that there are some new finishes being developed and that these look amazing, every bit as good as the Nevada, from a new laundry (previously washing on the high-end models was by Bart Sights).

Other incidental points: I've seen people here complain that some of the LVC denim was 'singed' - a process to remove the 'fluff'. I mentioned before I didn't think it was; I now have it on the record, via Ralph Tharpe and others, that it isn't. The denim is less hairy because it uses a longer staple cotton; short staple cotton tends to produce hairier jeans.

LVC apparently intend to produce more quirky items, like the cotton duck jackets that I personally think only appeal to deranged nerds like me and Doctor Heech. THis emphasises to me how different LVC are - for as we've often suspected, LVC is really flagship product, a labour of love, and not a money spinner (in fact, I reckon it's a loss-leader).

Whatever else happens, I'm looking forward to lots of new intriguing items.

I agree that LVC has gotten real good, but I still can't trust Levi's about some things. Like the type of floor the loom sits on affecting how the weave comes out.

They're creating a good product, but the problem for their credibility that according to them, 100% of everything is always 100% good.

So, Levi=spoonful of salt.(Like every other denim brand)

The standard history of Levi's always states that the rivets on the back pockets were covered in 1937 to avoid scratching saddles and furniture. While I don't doubt this rational since the covered rivet detail must cost more to execute than the exposed version, I was wondering if anyone wearing an LVC reproduction of an early model with exposed rivets has actually scratched a piece of furniture or anything else. Sometimes I think I must be crazy when I put down a towel before sitting on my leather-covered dining room chairs!

scratched my chairs with me 201s.

Nobody spotted the flaw !??

Pic of the 'historic 201' (back and front)

On closer inspection - the red tab wasnt introduced 'till 36 !

the denim on the pair in the background looks a bit odd. can you post bigger pics?

ok, found the ones a page back. denim... hmm..

Those do look nice. I got excited to see an hjj post in this thread... disappointment followed. Any updates on your pair?

yes, yes, coming. but only 6 months or so still.

I have my 2201 with custom back stitching and buttons up in the market if anyone is interested:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=176972

Wow, that black denim is so nice.

Is anyone else bored by the LVC vs Japan vs Warehouse vs SC kids' trump card game? It goes on and on.

The SC vs LVC 47 thread is great because it features photos. But this conversation is so repetitive. I appreciate hjj's opinions and knowledge, but how many times can you say "I don't like Cone'. Without new information, or photos, it's just plain tedious. Who is ever gonna prove themselves right? HJJ, you dislike the Levi's 201 fabric. I believe it's some of the best denim around. We could go around in a circle, forever.

It also distracts from the real problems with LVC. Even those who like them are wondering if, given missing rivets and wrong leather tags, whether the quality of produciton is going down the trashcan with the new factory.

I like the 201 fabric.

There are many repetitive things in this thread, I'm sure you're responsible for some not so unique posts too. A minute ago it was said to be understandable, but apparently it isn't so when it's me(you did call me out by name and not anyone else).

Don't tell me that I am distracting from anything, not more than you or anyone else at least.

And I missed that there was an agenda for the thread.

Salaami, I'm starting to think your obsession for Fullcount and Warehouse is blinding you a bit when it comes to LVC (I'm only half-joking). Why would they use Okayama denim or any of the techniques the Japanese use? They already have all this knowledge, and it's a known fact that most of those companies DON'T make accurate reproduction of the original denim used by Levi's (which, as I see it, is still the main reason to be for LVC). Cone made this denim, and it seems they are working hard to make something as close as possible to the original. As far as I understand this, not even Warehouse seems to make repros as accurate as some of the recent LVC reissues.

Hell, I doubt the 47's ever used Zimbabwe cotton or the 66 had slubby denim. I don't care for Cone and don't like most of the denim they make (mostly because I like my denim to have this extra twist), but you can't deny them that they are good enough at this job that they don't need any help from the Chinese workers employed to make the romanticized (because that's really what they are) versions of vintage jeans the Japanese, you and me enjoy wearing.

LVC and all those Japanese makers (call them artisans if you like, but to me that term is a bunch of bullshit in this context) have totally different objectives: reproduction vs. reinterpretation. You have to give credit to Levi's for what they're doing these days. Take a look at the non-denim LVC collection (the only part of LVC's collection I personnaly would buy are their tops, which are amazing), it's as good, if not better than what Japanese brands are offering, because they have the heritage, the techniques and some guys just as passionate as the Warehouse bros about their jobs to back them up.

I don't agree with salaami much at all but I also don't agree with you. First of all bunching all Japanese brands together and than using one or a few brands' product to describe all of the other ones' too isn't fair.

Second, I don't see why you would use the 'Cone' name as an argument for the quality of LVC. There certainly isn't anyone working in Cone today that did in the 40s, it's an all together different company, just operating under the same name.

Rather than using oversimplified symbols to judge something I would look at the product directly.

I have said many times that the last two seasons LVC collections have been very very good, in many ways as good as that of Japanese brands(to me, this mostly means 'Warehouse' right now).

However, the weak point with LVC as I see it is the denim, Cone's denim to be specific. Chronologically, it starts with the 1927 which is also the first model where Cone denim is used. Some years with Cone denim are fine, but some are off in my opinion. The 27, 37, 44 and perhaps 47 I don't like much at all. I would rather get the Japanese LVC versions because I do think the denim is significantly better as a reproduction.

And on the note of Japanese brands. I would say Warehouse is the number one brand for reproductions, without a doubt. Their scope is much larger than just jeans though and quality without fail topnotch across the range. Sure, they don't do replicas of exact Levi's models anymore, but their other jeans that arent original designs I hold as better reproductions than LVC.

And their denim is close to perfect.

It's just too nutty to be taken seriously, but I thought so about the IPRED law in the EU too, which basically lets corporations investigate and prosecute individuals for sharing music.

And I hope that everyone remembers that this is not capitalism, as it is only made possible with legislation passed by the so-called 'liberal' political nomenclature who obviously look at their own interests first and foremost, just like the companies they're 'working' with.

But I guess soon our thoughts and feelings will have to be original too.

do you honestly believe anything that just came outta your mouth?

of course. you could say otherwise but it would just be counterculture.

why is trippple nippples getting so big? they fuckin suck already.

because they're the best band in japan, their music is pretty good and their shows are amazing.

really o.o

i know one kid who rocks some raf simons, he is so goofy looking but a real sweetiepaiiii <3

i think i might be able to get out to jp and osaka for a couple weeks in june/july.. you about then?

let me know if you're in tokyo. great parties on the 13th and 19th of june.

So

I lurk in supermarket a lot for crap I want and waaay too often I'm seeing thangs with reserves of $200, $400+ being sold with excuses like

I NEED MONEY FOR BOOKS / RAMEN NOODLEZ / RENT / CAR / SEX / ALCOHOL / YO MAMA

so here's a poll sufu

how many of you nasty -ass mothafuckas eat ramen noodles and live basement dweller lives in tiny one bedroom capsule hotelz and eat RAMEN SPICY NOODLE but have ann d. jurius and other shit in your closet?

no hate, just cuuurius.

<3 j a xy

HAPPY VICTIMS

http://www.amazon.co.jp/%E7%9D%80%E5%80%92%E3%82%8C%E6%96%B9%E4%B8%88%E8%A8%98-HAPPY-VICTIMS-%E9%83%BD%E7%AF%89%E9%9F%BF%E4%B8%80/dp/4861521688/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1243645514&sr=8-1

Will be in Yokohoma in two weeks... what are the best nights to go out in Tokyo? Should I book a room for a night or two since trains stop running at late night?

Also, clubs, bars and anything fun. I don't want to sleep in Tokyo.

why would you sleep if you go out? catch the morning trains at 6 or so.

and ill be nice to you and just link you up, iflyer.jp

hehe, I have that same shirt, bought it for $20 at a used clothing shop.

It's rather old I believe.

If someone says your cuffs make you look like you bought jeans too big, chances are they probably are ignorant about other things like music, literature etc. Got to learn to discriminate between opinions!

I saw a worn in Ooe sample with black denim a while ago. The denim looked exactly like the denim that a guy, a former employee at Levi's, at the vintage shop BerBerJin has been wearing for the last 2 years.

Dunno the # but I would certainly recommened Ooe. I'd actually like to trade a pair of my Samurais BKs for them cause the Sams are too heavy and slubby.

HJJ had posted on his blog, repeattofade, a post from some dude on the fedora lounge, saying that in his little arizona town growing up that the "cool" kids did not cuff their jeans only the squares did. The "cool" kids cuffed their jeans inward. I think the pics of the motorcycle cats is already proof positive on what the cool kids were doing with their jeans.

yeah, I haven't seen anyone in these pics cuffing inwards. maybe his town was so isolated there weren't any bikes nor real 'cool' kids, or maybe it was before the 50s?

but I would also say there was not a definitive way of cuffing, some have big, som have small, some double, some triple cuffs and some just roll.