Paul T

14 minutes ago, ushokmwn said:

I'm not sure they would also write that on their website if it was just the lable thing. Maybe it's some buttons but their other jeans don't have this notice.

I think that's a random error/variation. A lot of their current production, featuring White Oak denim,  have that notice on the label.

28 minutes ago, ushokmwn said:

 

Levi's state on their site that the 1976 501 are made of imported materials. What does this mean? Are they made of White Oak Cone denim or of imported denim from a foreign Cone factory?

Welcome! That fabric is definitely dyed and loomed at White Oak.

It's either laziness (one label for all LVC) or else it's possible the yarn was actually spun in Mexico before it went to White Oak for looming - bod could well be correct too, maybe it's some other part. I suspect they put the same label in more or less every item that's sewn in the US to cover all possibilities. Odd fabrics are made overseas (for instance, shirt fabrics, some canvas etc).

Great fit! You've reminded me what a great outline the 47 has. 

I personally wouldn't hurry for another wash, or would at least wait until they're a bit funky.

these are that English classic, breakfast kippers, plus the wild pearl oysters...

We had an amazing weekend in Whitstable, one of the few places in the East Coast where the sun sets over the water.

It's said that Volvo's compatriot, the Emperor Claudius, invaded England based on report of the excellent oysters. Claudius was no idiot.

First lot here are Whitstable Natives. Fourth photos is of the oyster beds. More to come...

On 11/23/2017 at 10:08 AM, cool_hand said:

I found a pair of 1933 yesterday in a BF promotion for £112 - thought that was a fairly good price; if I don't like them I may pick up a pair of the 76 to add to my 76 Mirrors - I'm kind of reluctant to wear the Mirrors as they are the closest thing I have to a conceptual art edition. Anyone here own a pair of Mirrors and have worn them? Is that sacrilege? 

Cool Hand, what did you pay for your Mirrors?

My experience was that the 1933s didn't really fade that well. Sorry.

I'm with Foxy. Actually having stuff on the wall or on the cabinet... that's not really 'owning' it, is it? Those things are meant to be used. Hoarding stuff is bad for the soul. Using it is kinda good for the soul.

Also I don't want to die and leave my nipper boxes of weird stuff to sort through. I'm really aiming to cut it down to one watch, two guitars, two war medals from my dad and three boxes of punk singles. Don't want to weigh him down.

So that's why I'll be wearing these from the summer...

I have discussed the Sanforized issue with Lee's former head in Europe, now in the Hong Kong and China office. He agreed that most Sanforized seems to shrink more than the specified 3 per cent. I do believe many of the mills do actually Sanforize their denim - I've seen the machinery in, for instance, Nihon Menpu. But yes, all the Lee denim seems to shrink to some extent, especially over the long term - I've found every pair has, right back to my early 90s reissues, although the Edwin-fabric shrinks less than some.

Unfortunately, for some folks, Sanforized has become a buzzword, like Union-Made, that doesn't actually mean anything.

pix please!

8 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

So how many do you have then (and how many did you sell)?! We need to know, as it's always a good yardstick when we are challenged by significant others - "Well, if you think I'm bad, there's this other bloke on an Internet forum who has x denim jackets and y pairs of jeans"!

You'll get no enabling from me my friend. I think I have three original  70505, might have charity-shopped one or two of those, plus a great, knackered Lee Rider which I gave to nipper, who also has a lovely 50s Maverick. Not too bad, eh? We won't mention the Rickson armourer's top, TCB navy jumper, but that could well be that.

@nycsurfer, looking great!

Gotta say I don't really know the Type 1, never owned one.

1 minute ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

upvoting on the shame purchase discussion and co-worker exposure!

less about morbid glee and schadenfreude

more havent seen such honesty for while

god bless you all

I have a friend, a really good graphic designer who collects vintage Catalin radios; the house is full of them. He bought many cheap but paid big sums for others. Meanwhile his wife doesn't seem to have that much money for clothes.

I was talking about him to a mutual friend, saying how while having a few radios is great, he took things a bit far... when Lucy, Mrs T, who was at the far end of the room said, "Well, what about you? For instance, how many denim jackets do you have?"  "Only a couple", I replied before, patiently, she itemised every jacket I had, in what location, and I had to admit to each one. It was like being taken apart by an expert prosecution barrister.

So I actually did get permission for the TCBs; didn't need to of course, but it helped purge the guilt. (And I did sell some of the denim jackets)

3 hours ago, tchengaa said:

the jacket looks really awesome ~ id also like to pick one. which size should i get if i normally wear shirts that are around 18 to 19 inches from shoulder to shoulder? Thank you very much ~

 

 

 

this medium is exactly 18 shoulder to shoulder, to the seams. My guess: If you wear your shirts over a T and want to wear the jacket like that, a Medium should be possible, but a Large might be safer -  I have seen that they're circa 20 shoulder to shoulder.

For interest: here's the Kurabo version. Completely different. Plus the original, photo by Mike Harris, from my loomstate blog. You can see from the unworn sections of the original how pale and green it is. Note how the fabric lies, too, at 90 degrees to how your jeans are cut!

21 hours ago, 428CJ said:

I'm also glad to finally be getting some LVC items after all this time.

1915's I jumped on just because Levi's UK had a disgusting sale on them (£72 each). For a long time, I had been planning for the '33's, but the '15's are close enough that they will probably do as a '33 substitute.

The '44's I had always planned on getting, and I jumped during a sale.

The '66's always kind of intrigued me, but I wouldn't have ever bought them. Then they popped up for $120, so I went for it. They're still in the mail.

'55's sound great too. They will be my next pair.

That's a pretty definitive selection I think. I reckon the 1915 fabric is distinctly superior to the 1933. The 44, 55 and 66 are all really nice.

I got a msj from a SuFu luminary asking about the three pleat (check it out on the TCB 20s thread, it seems to have become a uniform).

Given that this might be the last chance for folks to buy one I though I'd share pix and dimensions. Mine is a medium, summer 2016 production so probably what they're still selling.  Armpit to armpit is exactly 20 1/2 inches after (I think) a warm soak that gave very little shrinkage.

I do love the shade; distinctly greener, and less black, than any other LVC, with a very open weave. I think if you buy this jacket, you should kinda do so on the basis that you expect it never to show wear, really! This is a very, very different jacket from 50s and 60s stuff. I especially love the tight, crisp edges on the cuffs, the incredibly short stitch length and the dull, muted colour of the stitching. It's very much a blouson; like a heavy shirt more than a jacket.

[edit: sorry Bartleby for replicating your post, I hadn't seen it! You're right, the buttons are a complete pain, I had to restitch almost every single one... in fact i tried one on in the Paris store, a button pinged off the cuff and rolled off along the floor, after which I had to leave in especially furtive fashion. ]



 

2 hours ago, Foxy2 said:

 

 

 

all this talk about the triple pleat and all that posing & voguing made me feel incomplete after realizing I'm missing one in my personal collection.

since the coolest one from recent memory is part of Bowery Blue Makers' offering I decided to place an order...

 

LOL! Can't wait to see it. They do look fabulou, altho' I wish they'd produced it in a lighter weight. But something that fades in less than a couple of years would be welcome.

I've worn mine as a blouse, indoors and out, for a full year and I reckon it will be another one or more likely two before it starts to show genuine wear (the light weight, while it gives a different feel, means it creases and crumples significantly less, plus that 1880s Cone denim simply doesn't crock).
 

10 hours ago, erk said:

paulT you dirty dog. Is that a tweed champ I'm seeing? 

1954. A bargain from the early days of eBay, must have been 2005 or earlier. It's looking pretty good considering my nipper coloured the top with red felt pen when he was a toddler. I'm just working out how to use it with/ source an external speaker cab which I think will sound awesome.

Great to see you on board guys.

Erk, I went down a size because I'd worn the contest pair; I like the fit this way but enjoyed the 1 size up fit just as much, it feels more 1920s.

Thought you might appreciate the sight of some tweed, Erk. This one's a bit neglected, pulled it out this weekend and want to get it back into regular use again.

23 hours ago, not too tight said:

@Paul T is that the mister freedom peacoat I spy in your hand? I sadly outgrew mine after only a year or two of owning it. 

I noticed the pocket bags are a twill not a duck, not a big deal but curious about the change.

Yes it is, I think this is might be the cheaper jcrew one, the lovely Mark Randall found it for me. Of course I never wear it if rain is forecast as I'm trying to keep that fabric dark.

Yes you're right, those pockets are a twill, it's so dark in my house in the morning when I get dressed that I never really noticed!

Hope thats wasn't Eamer fiberglass. Hang on, that's what I've been sitting on just now!

It's the cotton duck which is dyeing our hands, like the Cone version it bleeds like a bastard.

That's a lovely detail of these - I love jeans with chunky pocket bags as opposed to the tissue paper of so many LVC.

Yes, get your actual waist size in the 66. Mine from 14 months ago also measured true to size. So if you normally wear a 32 waist, buy a 32 waist.

That's so simple it made my brain hurt.

Forgive me for pimping my own stuff but I'm eBaying a pair of Nevadas. 15% off eBay price for polite Sufu-ers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Levis-LVC-jeans-Nevada-Barnstorm-1886-jeans-pre-501-Big-E-NWT-32-x-32/152789958261?hash=item2392fdbe75:g:lBoAAOSw1cNaDZep
 

22 minutes ago, mandel9000 said:

Hahahaha, I wish! Unfortunately I ordered my 20s without the suspender buttons. 

I was keeping these in case I lost any buttons off my three-pleat, but looks like your need might be greater?

 

6 hours ago, oomslokop said:

cool. thanks paul. "sitting in a more shallow layer" — does this have anything to do with how many dips in the indigo bath (that are often advertised) the denim goes thru?

IN general I don't think the quicker-crocking denim is dipped less; there are so many variables in the chemistry it's hard to generalise. I don't know also if there's a general difference in the methodology of US vs Japanese dyeing - although, in general they use different machinery, so there must be some significant differences in how it's done.

Overall I would say that Japanese denim has a much wider range of dyeing styles than Cone, which in general wears at roughly the same rate, whereas the difference between, eg, Samurai and some SDA is huge. Even the difference between some denims that come out of, say, Nihon Menpu is mental.