Paul T

37 minutes ago, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

some new 1993 repro now join LVC line

a 1993 501 with black bar tacks and Big E along with leather patch? is this an attempt to reproduce the very 1st repro?

https://www.levi.com/DE/de_DE/levis-vintage-clothing/levis-vintage-clothing-1993s-501-straight-jeans/p/798300041

Ew.

2 hours ago, bod said:

I’m afraid it’s Kaihara cloth and made in Turkey.

Ah, that's sad. Does it state that somewhere? Could be wrong, but it looked to me as if they'd reduced retail, if so that explains it. Fabric does look interesting though.

11 hours ago, cool_hand said:

Paul, I don't believe the actual jeans you will receive will look like that earlier pic. If you go onto the website someone who purchased the 1937s has posted a picture of the jeans they received and they don't have that problem with the arcuates. I might be reading this wrong but it appears Jimmy returned his 1937s - just wondering why?

You're right, I should have emphasised that that might simply be the wrong photo etc, just wanted to point out what was wrong in the pic posted.

 

31 minutes ago, cool_hand said:

what specifically sucked on the new 1936?

I've ordered the 1976 in the new denim today in both a 34 and 36 leg - if I like the denim I will probably keep the 36 based on your shrinkage.

That earleir pic had the wrong pockets, with diamonds on the bottom of the arcuates, wrong shape for both pocket and arcuate . Like a Thai fake!

Sorry, been doing real world work.

I don't know why there are deep discounts, might well be normal with the economy.

The 1880s natural indigo are the ones I wrote about earlier. Here's the indigo being harvested. The Three Pleat jacket is an identical denim except that it's synthetic-dyed. Can't wait to start on my jeans in the summer (the jacket is looking good, much like the last pix I posted except dirtier). At some point I'll post the latest version of my 1890s, 10 years old now, and starting to look somewhat worn-in.

3-pleat jacket on discount looks very tempting, that looks like it's still the Cone to me???

Yep, those 1937 look like a total botch!

I wonder how all the Kaihara fabric is looking, would love to get updates.

On 11/28/2019 at 8:48 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Thanks Simon, that was an enjoyable read and its an interesting site you have, congratulations on writing and publishing 5 books.

I think you’re right that the Kaihara fabric of your jeans is unlikely to be used by LVC as they are all likely to be created specifically for each historic model and none will be as heavy as 14.25oz (assuming that is the raw weight). Also, bearing in mind yours were bespoke pairs, I’d assume (again) that the denim was sanforized.

All the Lot 1 are indeed Sanforized, because they're all made bespoke it would be impossible to account for the differential shrinkage.

ooh, aren't they nice! That is a lovely back pocket shape, I wish the 60s were a little more like that.

14 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Any specific month in 1942 Paul? 

Oh sorry I meant 44. My bad.

You're right.

They wanted to have 'earlier' jeans and for some crazy reason decided to call them after the 201 to make them more distinct. But they're really 501. The later 201 with Kurabo fabric is a pretty accurate replica (apart from the run  with the wrong arcuates!)

I'd be interested in a 1942 cut, Warehouse would be nice

Yay! A Hat!

I really need a hat.

Congratulations everyone, yobyashi especially, your jeans look great xxx

http://tcbjeans.com/2019/11/10/24017

That's a great option, if it is available shorter. It's purely a preference thing, I don't have any other jackets but the 3-pleat because I have just gone off the trucker style. The Levi's one is very tilted, it's a subtle cut.

If it's natural indigo that would have to be a two or three year contest. You couldn't wear them all the time like jeans. Also, think of the folks with day jobs!

32 minutes ago, propellerbeanie said:

There's a bit of extra info on the TCB blog. Doesn't confirm that they're natural indigo, but supposedly they've "succeeded in rope-dyeing them for the best fades" so maybe it won't be too difficult to fade. This is from the non-Google translated excerpt btw

Yes, it surely is natural indigo. Very exciting!

"This fabric uses natural indigo to reproduce the denim dyeing of the 1800s. In the case of natural indigo dyeing, the core of the yarn will be dyed and will not lose color. However, the vintage of the 1800's is discolored by consulting with the fabric shop and dyeing with natural indigo rope dyeing. "

I suspect it will still be a bastard to fade. But I think ultimately that does give a better result. If I didn't have the Levi's Cone 1880s I would buy these pants. They're sewn so nicely, that puckering on the single line yoke looks lovely.

(still want a gingham jacket).

are they natural indigo?

Just to confuse everyone more... Ralph Tharpe from Cone once told me that some of those early weights are wrong, a misreading of old documents because the weight referred to a yard long, full width piece of fabric which is just less than a square yard!

Wow. Great that the triple pleat is becoming a classic. Hope it's a light-weight fabric. Please do one in gingham, inoue-san!

THey are a lovely shape but the sizing is indeed tricky. I stopped wearing my denim one for a while as it felt too small after a machine wash. Can't find photos though! So here's the duck one. The cuffs feel mich shorter than they look, probably I am in some weird hunched-up pose. Dudewth, definitely hand wash only when it's time.

I was living in SF for around nine months, they only did the tours for an occasional walk-thru, there were no denim nerds whatsoever, just bored retired peeps I think. They had big stashes of Big E tags in tupperware boxes, not that many people sewing, and the foreman wasn't that informative  - nor did I know that much then, about Cone or anyone, possibly I even asked him whether they'd sold the looms to Japan!  Of course I really regret that back then I didn't have a decent camera that would work in low light so I took no photos.

Shame it matters so much... as in places like Valencia and Cone aren't around any more.

3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

(Pre-LVC) Capital E range I’d think.

Absolutely. They had some generic features (did they have a crotch rivet?) but the fabric in particular was great. I dropped into Valencia Street over that period, around Dec 1994, and got into a little argy-bargy as I was wearing the Euro selvage 101J. Those do look great.

His jeans, his rules, but if it's going to be an Instagram vote, best to have them all posted by Inoue, to reduce the number-of-followers factor.

(says the man with no Instagram account).

I miss this thread. I also miss Cotton Duck, who helped get my my first cotton duck pullover!

In tirbute to him, here's my new three-pleat duck jacket, alongside the pullover, in a slightly different colour.

This is from 2013, and although I thought it wasn't a Cone fabric, I'm wrong.

A few folks here have seen my denim three-pleat. This is the Cone synthetic 1880s fabric, which is lovely. Gnarly but not overdone. Although I like, for instance, the TCB fabric which looks great from afar, it is very high contrast and super-slubby close up. The Cone in comparison is far blue-er, and subtle.

Now of course, thanks to Spiraltoy I have its companion, the same jacket in cotton duck.


It's similar in construction to the denim version - but not the same. For a start, even though they're the same size, the pockets on the duck version are deeper.

It has some selvage detailing - although not as much as the duck pullover. It's a different fabric. I thought this wasn't Cone, but apparently it is, according to me anyway(!) Again, I thought this might be Turkish-made, but my 2013 story says it was sewn in LA

Here's a story on the development of the first duck replica fabric.



Here is is alongside the duck pullover.

Are the hems chain-stitched?

These are categorically not vintage jeans. What were they listed as?

those are a new design I haven't seen before. I don't see how they can be pre-1987. They don't have the look of fakes, even though there's a clash of different features. there were some weird Canadian-made Levi's in the early 90s that tried to ape a vintage look, so that would be my guess.

It's not the lack of selvage that suggests they're much later than 1971, as some 505 etc had dropped selvage by that time. It's the irregular pockets, the look of the stitching, OE fabric and construction.

3 minutes ago, FreeCharlesManson said:

couple other guys said they couldn't see i dunno 

I couldn't either. Which on balance was a good thing.

(great pair!)

@FreeCharlesManson your previous photos were fine! Why don't you stick with those? ? ?