Paul T

They have to be more tapered than the 50s, they're overall slimmer. But not that slim - they're less tapered than many 66 cuts including LVC I think (haven't measured).

(Edit, took some stuff out for washing, LVC in a tag 32, essentially the same size, are probably an inch less at the cuffs than TCB).

Nice catch. Kurabo denim which fades slowly but subtly with a real turquoise mid-tone. (Not as slowly as the Cone, though, either type).

I was looking at the chain stitch and thinking how much I like it, even though it's wrong. I need to get my 1880s natrual indigo shortened and was thinking of doing the same. Is that wrong?

i only tried the 60s on briefly, they're pre-washed, to check they fit (which they do). I'll compare them with my Levi'sg 66 and report back. It is nice fabric, very blue once soaked, feels almost 70s. Won't be starting on them properly until the autumn, and then I'll be a three days a week denim guy so no more competitions for me

Edit: I thought they used my 20s for the last shoot but it was my 50s.

16 hours ago, Leevi's said:

Another thing about my LVC 501-54 above, the previous pair I got (from 2011), if I remember correctly, had a bit different look and touch of the denim, it was more smooth at touch, the fabric looked more "combed", more starched (I don't know how to describe it correctly, english is not my language) and maybe also a bit darker, these from 2015 have a bit more rough, "hairy" look and touch. Anyone knows why? The  denim should basically be the same from Cone Mill...

Cone would use different cotton from different years with different weather. They would try and 'average out' the result but there will always be inconsistencies from year to year.

that's beautiful. I guess it's the Cone indigo duck. Cone sent me a bunch after we did the Roy contest, it's gorgeous stuff. Though you will end up with blue thighs, it crocks like crazy!!

I spent a few days in Kurashiki, visiting Nihon Menpu, but sadly didn't visit TCB.

How dare they shame me by having someone look much better in my jeans than I did???

I think I remember that little bit of the street, too...

I actually thought all the contest jeans were great, I'd often look at them and think they looked better than mine. But then looking at mine in the factory they seem to look even better than I remember them!
Interesting, too, how similar all my different jeans seem to end up. Those two are really similar, although when you look at the 50s close-up there's beautiful detailing where the warp has just worn away over the whisker creases.
Your jeans are great, Volvo, you are the role model we're all trying to emulate. ! Stay well. x

Those all look great!

@fresco those aren't my nipper's old pair, are they? They went off to Mark F in Germany IIRC.

@spiraltoy, I remember when those came in to Cinch, they are a 1901 repro... with an 1880s leather patch! Production error. Kurabo fabric.

hmmm... fixtures and fittings look good, without seeing them in the flesh i would guess they're legit, and that the inconsistencies are simply production errors.

Show us the inside of the rivets on the front and back pockets. Also the yoke details pleez.

1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

How about a 47 cut using 43 denim with 44 arcs and 46 hardware with 45 details and a 39” inseam? 

• I voted for customisation, on the basis it would only be pocket fabric, which would involve minimal cost and disruption. But I'm fine with stock fabric, too.

yup, works for me too.

We know historically around 50% of folks who say they're up for it drop out, so I'd cost it at 25 and make it first come first served.

The early 555 501 are all cone. The very first Captial E jeans, with a mix of feautres, were all based around the Cone fabric. I am not sure about the original '201', that might be Kurabo.
 

I hate the fading too but it looks vintage to me. Would really need to see in the flesh but, for instance, none of the Levi's Japan reissues I've seen have the red selvage line fade like that, nor do you see that corrosion of the zinc on the reverse of the buttons.

Great news. Me too . LOvely to see you guys.

I'm a three-days a week denim dude now so no chance of even winning a hat but I can copy Volvo and use the dremel etc.

6 hours ago, 428CJ said:

Just out of curiosity: If you dry clean raw unsanforized denim, does it shrink in the dry cleaning chemicals? I would think so, as the garments are still getting wet (just not with water).

Generally no. I have done this with jeans to keep them dark and orginal size. There might be some shrinkage and even fading but it's negligible. Might vary with modern , less toxic chemicals but I suspect it will still be minimal.

IIRC, in the late 70s, Cone changed the fabric to be pre-skewed, to eliminate leg twist. (I don't know how well it works, as when I used to go thru stacks of 501 in the 80s, you'd see lots and lots of leg twist). One guess therefore might be that Kaihara have over done the pre-skewing? Although my recollection , without checking, is it started in 79.

That's only a guess, as I don't really understand how pre-skewing works, and even people experts like Ralph Tharpe aren't too sure why some jeans show more leg twist than others.

58 minutes ago, bod said:

TPB on Rakuten

Ah, thanks for this. The Kaihara looks like a kind of cross between the first Kurabo, and the Cone. They seem to say the Kaihara version is completely loomstate. (and btw I'm saying that we started the loomstate craze on SuFu with the Roy Cone fabric. It was my and Ralph Tharpe's notion to do that, with the 1915 yarn. I don't recall anyone doing that before).

Has anyone else noticed how the cut looks really different? In the Rakuten photo the tilt from front to back looks much more drastic.

Ha, so the reason that fabric looks like Cone is because... they're using old photos of Cone.

Of course, i'm assuming the new faric is Kaihara, but there is a chance it's Kurabo, who produced the first version. Looks nothing at all like the Cone, which is blue-er and much much gnarlier. Have we had any indication?

My 1890s are Kurabo and are looking pretty good, they fade from a black blue to a very turquoise colour. But not as nice as the Cone, or the natural indigo that TCB are using for their 3-pleat, which looks pretty like the Cone, nice and stripey.