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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T

  1. Gave my three-pleat a hand wash last week as the weather was sunny.

    It's been interesting wearing this alongside, for instance, the TCB 20s - although they're 40 years apart in Levi's terms the fabric isn't that different. I love the shading on the TCB, as in the range of colours. I've also been wearing some Levi's Lot 1 with Nihon Menpu fabric. I think the Cone 1880s fabric, in terms of texture, is so far ahead it's unreal. Much much more subtle, rather than pronounced bumps and slubs there are myriad small variations in the fabric.


    I prefer the dye job on the TCB in terms of looks, as I like high contrast, but I think we'll look back on this era of Cone fabrics as being pretty unique

    . It's certainly much better than the Kurabo fabric replicating the same era - I am not sure if the pre-20s fabric for current LVC is from Kaihara, i'd be very interested to see their interpretation of the same fabric.

    All these shots are a bit pale, my Fuji X100 doesn't seem to get denim colours right, unlike my wife's sony RX (which I, um, dropped and killed).


    Finally, here's the 1880s natural indigo with a proper camera. Very dense and scrunchy with lots of fluff. They're about a shade darker in real life with more of a red-purple hue.

    As you can see, the busted seam is very close to my knee, then swings round to line up with my laces at the bottom. the most leg-twist I've had from a first wash, ever.

  2. Honestly, let's not go there. If anyone's bothered they can make their own stencil. If the design looks vageuly levi's ish, they might hassle Inoue-San, and the people who own Evisu are absolute arseholes and there's a chance of them weighing in, too. Better to spend out energy on a nice leather patch and some groovy cotton ticking for the pockets.

  3. They've got the most extreme leg twist of any jeans I've owned. Sitting down now to drink my coffee the selvage is past the front line of the jeans, ie more than 45 degrees. Same with the shrinkae on length and waist, way more than the Roys.

    Colour's a good bit darker than this photo, which doesn't show the really extreme crinkling and little bumps, way more than anything I've seen (although these days I tend to put thru wash rather than soak). Being a slimmer fit they're maybe not as good summer jeans as the 1890s and their predecessors, the 1901. but I'm committed now...


  4. They have to be more tapered than the 50s, they're overall slimmer. But not that slim - they're less tapered than many 66 cuts including LVC I think (haven't measured).

    (Edit, took some stuff out for washing, LVC in a tag 32, essentially the same size, are probably an inch less at the cuffs than TCB).

  5. Nice catch. Kurabo denim which fades slowly but subtly with a real turquoise mid-tone. (Not as slowly as the Cone, though, either type).

    I was looking at the chain stitch and thinking how much I like it, even though it's wrong. I need to get my 1880s natrual indigo shortened and was thinking of doing the same. Is that wrong?

  6. i only tried the 60s on briefly, they're pre-washed, to check they fit (which they do). I'll compare them with my Levi'sg 66 and report back. It is nice fabric, very blue once soaked, feels almost 70s. Won't be starting on them properly until the autumn, and then I'll be a three days a week denim guy so no more competitions for me :(

    Edit: I thought they used my 20s for the last shoot but it was my 50s.

  7. 16 hours ago, Leevi's said:

    Another thing about my LVC 501-54 above, the previous pair I got (from 2011), if I remember correctly, had a bit different look and touch of the denim, it was more smooth at touch, the fabric looked more "combed", more starched (I don't know how to describe it correctly, english is not my language) and maybe also a bit darker, these from 2015 have a bit more rough, "hairy" look and touch. Anyone knows why? The  denim should basically be the same from Cone Mill...

    Cone would use different cotton from different years with different weather. They would try and 'average out' the result but there will always be inconsistencies from year to year.

  8. I actually thought all the contest jeans were great, I'd often look at them and think they looked better than mine. But then looking at mine in the factory they seem to look even better than I remember them!
    Interesting, too, how similar all my different jeans seem to end up. Those two are really similar, although when you look at the 50s close-up there's beautiful detailing where the warp has just worn away over the whisker creases.
    Your jeans are great, Volvo, you are the role model we're all trying to emulate. ! Stay well. x


  9. The early 555 501 are all cone. The very first Captial E jeans, with a mix of feautres, were all based around the Cone fabric. I am not sure about the original '201', that might be Kurabo.

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