kremedla

thanks doc,

it is all very informative and insightful. i think it is good to think about what we wear once in awhile (though some may argue that it shouldn't be intellectualised). oddly enough a friend of mine whose partner claims to not care about what he wears refuses to wear any jeans that have any type of fading, whiskers, pattern etc...on them. not that her prefers premium selvage or dry, but he wants it to be plain and anonymous- yet he still claims to be the 'i wear whatever is available in the morning' type, but from my interpretation he is just as picky as someone who admits that they put thought into their purchases and style...

I am about to write a paper about the socialogical evolution of denim from being a 'blue-collar, work uniform' to an urban, high-end uniform where the distinction and individuality stems from the brand whcih relates to the cut, fabric and wash (shade).

So my question(s) are :

1) What are you trying to convey when you choose a brand of denim- ie. if you were into diesel a few yrs back and now think they are out, or why the majority of ppl here are into apc

2) What are you communcating when you choose rigid, dark, selvage or washed out faded, acid wash???

3) What are the primary factors when you buy denim, (try to think further than just fit and comfort) ie. details on prps or lack of details on apc or uniglo.

If you want to go into detail hit me up at [email protected]

ps. Ring ring and serge, your opinions will surely help since i know you guys articulate your thoughts quite well-

[http://www.hypebeast.com/archives/2005/05/stussy_x_birken.php#000318]

here is your excuse for birks now being 'cool'. but some may actually rock them because they are orthopedic-

apparently it is an aussie company, exclusive to offspring in the uk. some nice styles and excellent vibram sole, the first in a trainer that i have seen.

apparently it is an aussie company, exclusive to office in the uk. some nice styles and excellent vibram sole, the first in a trainer that i have seen.

CONTEMPORARY (BACKPACK) CREW

mos/talib/pharoah/common/blackthought- i would say these guys are pretty close in how they have come up and obviously how they have collaborated.

Rakim

the b-i-g d a double d y k-a-n-e!

MC Ricky D- no doubt the best narrator

BuckShot The 5 Ft MC

Posdnous makes the heads get loose

MF Doom, mad trife.

Busta/LONS days- peep syntax error!

Q-tip/Low End Theory days

*Highly subejective list, but imho chuck d, krs(bdp), j-hova, nas, big, raekwon, meth, ghost, snoop, cube (Amerikkkas most wanted), all deserve a space- maybe in between the others....

For those of you based in London and whom have an interest in Design [http://www.notnow.org.uk/], would really appreciate the support of some superfutures. It is definitely an event worth attending.

from what i have seen, the cheapest for the 1 rinse selvedge is at start, a shop around hoxton square. round 190 quid, whereas liberty and selfridges around 210- 215 quid. duffer around the same as liberties and selfridges...

9th wonder- truly. love the fact that little bro/foreign connection give props to the golden age of hip hop.

ooops, and common's album is called 'be' and will drop in the uk on may 24.

forgot the rza, dark and sinister and responsible for all wu's catalogue and so many solo projects. ok really i am done.

went and shot common last night at the jazz cafe for blues and soul magazine and his show was amazing. this year have had the op to shoot the roots, talib, pharoah,wu ( uk reunion), snoop, nas, de la, bep, ludacris, mos, jilly from philly among some heavy soul artists like raphael saadiq, van hunt, and floetry but seriously common's show was the heaviest, and he is not even my fav. artist. that being said here is my list- no particular order

pete rock- history son, mad history.

kanyayo- the new generation, 'he's a soulful dude'

j.dilla- detroit rep. fully!

prince paul- creative beyond, responsible for skits (now overused)

dj premier- dripping pure hip hop, unmistakeable beats.

hon. mention- dre, can't mess with the west when dre doin it.

lil jon- distinctive as fuk.

ok, pharrell (does hugo actually do anything?) - some seriously catchy songs for east and west coast artists which is cool cause he adapts his sound.

madlib- this guy falls into the prince paul category, so much creativity with so many personas.

ok, i am done or else could be here all day.

good thread.

does anyone have any more info on this label besides this link?

[http://www.krtdirect.com/calendar/preview.htm?doc=KRT%2Fkrtphotos%2Fdocs%2F245%2F229]

check it...

[http://dilemma.typepad.com/slept/2005/03/edun_.html]

hey sbbjm, i am curious. you said that you bought the english cut in a size 31 and have stretched to a 34+? i bought mine in a 30 and they fit like a 32, and they are a wider fit so i am confused as to how you stretched them when they are already quite loose?

in all this apc hype, selfridges has now pushed apc gear to the forefront of mens, whereas it was waaaayyy in the back of a desolute area only a month ago. word of mouth travels fast, the english cut were 65 pounds a few months back and have now risen to 89...talk about inflation!

ring dub, still not washed the apcs and doing a rotation with them, guccis, rogans, edwins and levis...damn....

being canadian i am quite confident that not many canadians in cities that carry spruce and wings and horns would pay $500 cdn for a hoodie, and believe me even in london this is ridicules- hence the reason it went on sale down to 25 quid.

i agree that the cut and designs reek of quality and quite proud that a cdn company is repping, but i am just curious what the pricing is in canada.

i've been out of ca for awhile now but can someone please tell me how much spruce hoodies are there? i picked up a few spruce t's and a hoodie here in london on sale, but the reg. price for the hoodie was 208 quid- roughly $500 cdn. are they just trying to rape the uk buyers or what?

ring dub,

have you seen the new rogan hemp 'selvage'? looking at them yesterday it seemed a bit strange in that it looks as though the seam with the r logo has simply been sewn on for the sake of making it look selvage. the jeans are an interesting colour and quite heavy, but i am leaning towards the prps purple selvages at the moment. have worn the guccis a few times and they are very nice, subtle details and actually not too bling.

hahnstch,

got a very good deal at a second hand store in covent garden therefore got to try and see them firsthand before getting them. not a huge fan of ebay actually....

hey guys.

as always great to get more of ring double's knowledge on denim and so many others as well. here is a link of some gucci selvage i picked up a few months back. hopefully this link will work....

[http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=992704041205&page=1&sort_order=0]

ringring,

awhile ago i asked if you heard of a brand i came across at american classics and i saw them again recently- it's buzz ricksons!

thanks rands and yakboy, i will try again in the next few days-

hey ringring,

thank you for such a thought out and precise answer. it is great that denim can be intellectualised and thought in terms of market valuability and global availability.

the edwins are available at selfridges and the selvedge is in a rainbow colour. pretty nice.

i have some pics of the guccis i promised but have no idea as to how to post them?

i had to put them here...http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=992704041205

hey ringring,

you are the mystery man! have you seen the edwins that have the rainbow selvedge? very nice in my opinion.

can i ask you a question though? although selvedge denim has been around for ages do you think that the quality will decrease as a result of the increase in popularity currently with regards to them. we have discussed the price decrease and though one of the main arguments for selvedge was that it is premium denim that is made in lower quantities yet the gap, and uniglo are able to produce seemingly large batches and sell them at a decreased cost? i know this was discussed in another thread when you defended and explained how gap does it but my question is in the future of selvedge and how it has surged in popularity where once it was a more specific market.

apc def a great deal, however uniglo's are excellent value as are the gap selvedge. however if you prefer to have a 'name' i would stick with apc, or edwin nash/green. gap selvedge on major discount in london now for 30quid (about 60 us) and comparing them to quality edwin rainbow selvedge they are very close...

35mm

these jeans will fit larger than yoru reg size since they are unwashed, but will shrink after a reg wash as ring ring pointed out. i am a 30 but these definitely fit like a 32 and i do not intend to wash them anytime soon. hope that helps.

kofi, in my opinion i think sites like this one help globalize popular culture. what we think is progressive, unique or different is actually the same somewhere else. no matter what ppl will have the same ideas and i think the net perpetuates this. cool hunting will definitely be less significant since ppl will and can do it themselves...london point of view.