rodeo bill

Sorry just realized I never answered this. Lost wax-cast, actually, not sand cast! I stopped making leather goods a long while ago, and was working down through my stock. I'm now pretty much out, but I do have a few belt blanks, and some buckles, so if you're after something please let me know and I'll see what combinations I can offer you.

Thanks for this, here's a set of measurements for each fit, in size 3: 125 size 3 waist: 33" front rise: 11.75" back rise: 15.5" thigh (3" down from crotch): 12" hem: 8.5" inseam: 36" 132 size 3 Waist: 33" Front rise: 11.75" Back rise: 15.25" Thigh (3” down from crotch): 12.5" Hem: 8.5" Inseam: 36” 136 size 3: Waist: 33" Front Rise: 12" Back Rise: 15.25" Thigh (3” down from crotch): 12.75" Hem: 10.5” Inseam: 36" 157 size 3: waist: 33" front rise: 13" back rise: 16" thigh (3" down from crotch): 13.5" hem: 10.5" inseam: 36” so: in order of leg with (slimmest to widest): 125, 132, 136, 157 in order of rise (lowest to highest): 132/136, 125, 157 All these are washed/dyed measurements- Unborn denim will arrive large and shrink down to size.

Haha, thank you! Everything's quite up in the air, with denim. I can tell you that after the delivery just sent out to stockists (and restocked on Tender Stores) there will be a bit of a gap for new denim. I've used up the last of the fabric that's in the UK, and I'm not ordering more to be sent there. I've done a few jeans experiments in the US but nothing's quite right yet, however I'm working on something now which feels very promising. Sadly the tariff situation has been a big factor (although I suppose it's achieving its desired purpose in this case, at least?)- the last couple of jeans imports from the UK have been ruinously expensive, and I've had to increase jeans prices to stockists, accordingly. Unfortunately this means I'll be raising prices of jeans on Tender Stores, too, to keep in line with other stockists and so that restocks aren't priced differently from older stock. I've kept them down as long as I can but I'll be updating in the next couple of weeks. The nice side of this, though, is that moving Tender away from my old factory in the UK has freed up space for Working jeans. The Working/Edwin project has come to an end after three seasons, and we'll soon be delivering the first Working jeans made in the UK- they're lovely.

Sorry for the delay seeing this. As with so many things it's not exactly intentional in the first place, but an accident which ends up with some sort of coherence. Hadal Blue and the other standard dyes are done in a larger dyeing machine, at a larger dyehouse, where it's all about consistency, and they're very good at getting a clear flat colour and rinsing and drying the garments so they don't end up crumpled. I feel like this fits with the idea of the standard dyed garments- to offer something with a more stable, slightly less esoteric, finish. The natural/historical dyes, on the other hand, are done in a smaller drum and the dye doesn't penetrate as deeply, so there are more creases in the fabric, and the dye isn't as regular. When it comes to rinsing and drying the garments, the natural dyes aren't as harsh of a process as the standard ones, so they don't affect the the fabric as much, so it stays a bit crisper, meaning it dries less smoothly. Garments are all sewn and then dyed from loomstate fabric, which often still has sizing (starch) in it. Finished garments don't get ironed or otherwise smoothed out. I personally don'r iron my clothes before wearing them, and I think the texture of un-ironed fabric shows more character. Some stockists do press their stock before selling, though, so it partly depends on where you order from. As with all these things, I like it that no two pieces are exactly the same, and you'll get a slightly different experience depending on where you buy from.

lovely photo! Here are my Type 102 Cross Cut Short Jeans, cut as long as they can be, at the complete width of the roll, with selvage hem. These are right hand twill, gratifyingly twisting anticlockwise

Thanks for putting these up- I hadn't seen them! I also hadn't thought of this style as a reefer, but you're totally right that it is. It's called the Bourd Shirt (for Anthony), and was based on a chef's jacket. The entire front panel can button on (as in the grey photos) or off (in the yellow), and is reversible, with check fabric and a zipped pocket on the reverse side. I just got my Working order in and was photographing it yesterday. Edits today, lots to do Thanks also @merzbotfor posing your 903, looking lovely 🙂

haha Im getting old. With utmost respect to Paul T I'm not completely convinced it means this as the tag says Lee® M.R. so the second registered would be redundant? Unless I guess it's stating that both the name and the logo are registered? Anyway sorry to derail- if anyone has any other theories I'm genuinely interested. Back to jeans 🙂

sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but does anyone remember what M.R. stands for? I've definitely known at some point.

and a 200 made up and on the way to you! Thank you 🙂 and I'm sure we'd love to see photos. Really appreciate your enthusiasm!

It's so lovely to see these again! I'll play, here is the pair I'm wearing today. It's actually a Frankenstein pair from pieces left over after a batch: blue fronts with black sides. They were all made by the same person, but the first few runs were made through a middleman, who eventually just introduced me to the maker and left us to it (complicated, small quantities, different priorities from normal customers haha)

yes indeed! I'll have this up on the Stores in the next couple of days, too. 904, it's cut sideways with the selvage along the bottom edge of the body and the cuffs. There's no side seam, and the sleeves are put on upside-down. There are four pockets, two at the front, two at the back, and a larger, shaped collar based on the Ambler coat from Autumn/Winter 2025. Also that's a nice preview of the return of purple logwood denim! More soon

follow up to @Georg's question. It reminded me that I hadn't been in touch with Morten, who made the belt, in a while, so I took the opportunity to say hello. I was wrong about the thread- here's his reply: The thread is Waxed 18/5 Linen Thread Somac 300g. I have never used soap on leather, I usually use like warm water with some baking soda to clean leather before re greasing. Only adding this for completeness sake! Tiger thread is good stuff too- the main thing is to either use pre-waxed thread, or to wax it as you go.

Looks lovely, and yes well worth repairing. These were sewn with waxed 'Tiger' brand thread, which you should be able to find on eBay etc. I've not used saddle soap, but I agree with @CSL it should do the trick. Anyone that's not seen this belt before- it's a really cool design. It was part of the small Tender / For Holding Up The Trousers project. This is a response to the slightly unsatisfactory way that the leather folded over a buckle has to be skived thinner than the rest of the belt, and is just sewn around the top of the belt (not at all a major issue, I would say, but was something fun to question). The belt was cut from thinned leather, double the length of the belt. The buckle prong hole was made in the center, then the entire belt is folded in half and sewn all round. Here's how it looked when it was new:

A friend in Japan just sent me some photos of a really beautiful Type 900 jacket Great marbling on the sleeves, particularly

712s: Too low waist for me really, but sometimes it’s nice to revisit my youth!