Such beautiful work @Duke Mantee
I wanted to write a little on the bag I made, and this ”pleat fold” in particular, cause it took me a while to figure out how to do.
It’s there not only because I think it looks cool, but also the Liston locks can be sort of fiddly, so being able to get a finger behind to support the insertion of the lid lock part.
Anyway, I think this technique is only possible if hand stitched, but I’m not an expert at machine stitching so I could be wrong. To do it, I prickmark the stitch line, one line on each side of the lock. Then I stitch from the bottom up, until the first mark seen in this image:
The mark isn’t super visible, but its just at the top of the lock at the stich line. At that mark, I folded the bag over, and stiched through two layers. I continue until the second mark, where I fold the bag back again, and stitch through 3 layers until I reach the end. The top of the bag is skived to zero to make it easier to stitch the binding.
I have never seen a guide on how to do this pleat, so I figured I could type one out. Theres probably even a name for it in french or something, I just dont know it.