dada mafiosi

My new Chambray shirt from Freewheelers also know as "Neal Cassady"  indigo work shirt 

The shirt design is inspired by work shirts from the 1920s. The left  pocket has a pen holder, the collar has a chin strap, the hem is finished with an open ring, and a union ticket is sewn on the back of the front hem. The buttons are made of iron, and the more you wear them, the more the paint will peel off and rust, creating a nice atmosphere. The fabric is likely to loose color , creating a nice shade of indigo. Bar tacks stitches in all pressure points  

In size 16, below were the measurements in unwashed:

pit to pit: 55

shoulder: 45

sleeve: 65

length: 77

After 1st wash I noticed:

pit to pit: 55 (no change)

shoulder: 45 (no change) 

sleeve: 64

length: 76

(Monkey Wrench told me that the shirt will shrink in 1st two washes, likely to shrink 1-15.cm in width and 2cm in length)

Pictures in unwashed condition:

My new Chambray shirt from Freewheelers also know as "Neal Cassady"  indigo work shirt 

The shirt design is inspired by work shirts from the 1920s. The left  pocket has a pen holder, the collar has a chin strap, the hem is finished with an open ring, and a union ticket is sewn on the back of the front hem. The buttons are made of iron, and the more you wear them, the more the paint will peel off and rust, creating a nice atmosphere. The fabric is likely to loose color , creating a nice shade of indigo. Bar tacks stitches in all pressure points  

In size 16, below were the measurements in unwashed:

pit to pit: 55

shoulder: 45

sleeve: 65

length: 77

After 1st wash I noticed:

pit to pit: 55 (no change)

shoulder: 45 (no change) 

sleeve: 64

length: 76

(Monkey Wrench told me that the shirt will shrink in 1st two washes, likely to shrink 1-15.cm in width and 2cm in length)

Shirt pictures in unwashed condition, with belt Tanner Goods Standard belt, Natural, Stainless Steel buckle (size 34), jeans pair OOE Yofukaten OA01XX XX4 in size 36, Nike Pegasus39 size US 7.5:

Sleeves width is slim including sleeve opening, giving a modern look. I have a little belly tummy , so body width at 2nd last button was important factor while deciding on sizing. 

Here are the actual measurements "when new" in CMs of size 40:

Chest (pit to pit): 53.5

Shoulder: 47 

Sleeve Length: 60.5

Width at 2nd last button: 47.5

Width at 3rd last button: 49

Sleeve opening: 10.5

Body length: 61.5

Hem Width 46.5 

After using the jacket for a few days,  I notice that 2nd last button width now is 48.5cm and hem width is 47.5cm  (both increased 1 cm after use)

Here is my new TFH Jacket, Type III 

The construction is clean, slim towards waist, custom buttons, all details and quality what you can expect from THF. I bought size 40. I am extremely thankful to all for  feedback and input here. A little bit tight at tummy when 2nd last button is buttoned up. As this is one-washed so expect it will stretch out after some use. I will try to avoid hot washes in future (only cold wash when needed). 

After Use

Initial waist was tight and difficult to wear, but quickly it stretched back

Waist      90cm (stretched back not completely , maybe later on, non wash width was 91cm) 
Knee      24.5 (0.5 increased after initial soak / wash state, as knee also a pressure point)
Inseam   79 (though after wash it was 78, maybe stretched as legs are relatively wide, so pressure is put on inseam length) (so I should have either gone for 83m or 84cm in raw state to achieve 77cm) 

Jeans constructions is immaculate and impressive, greenish yellow thread, hardware proportions not too heavy neither feel weak, leather patch feels like silk, light denim weight to use all year round. Perfect example of couple dedication in their work and it is about how they taking care of limited raw denim community 

I compared OA01XX with my FC1108 (size 35), which I have been using for almost a year. 1 cm leg opening and 0.5cm knee is wider in OA, remaining points seem similar. 

In Non Wash state OA01XX was light greyish in color. After wash it appeared as Indigo towards greyish tone. 

During 1st wear, I noticed soft, as wider legs so it was extremely comfortable. Let's see how this new fabric evolves 

Lastly: sorry for posting low quality pictures , taken from iphone 

After Wash

Waist     85 (-6)
FR         31 (-1)
Thigh     32 (-0.5)
Knee     24   (-2)
LO        22.5  (-1.5)
Inseam  78 (-7 not -8 as desired)

Picture of hot soak

another pic is for an unwanted crease which was developed during hot soak, in order to keep dipping into hot water I folded one inseam and put some weight for short time, (behind knee, calf area), the picture taken after use of 5 hours, the crease is still visible [so guys extra care when washing or soaking) 

Before Wash

Waist          91
RR              41
FR              32
Thigh          32   
Knee          26
LO              24
Inseam       85

Waist, Leg Opening and Knee measurement pics

My new purchase, OA01XX, size 36

Hemmed to 85cm  , I was told 8cm shrinkage to achieve 77cm (the desired length after wash). I achieved 78cm after hot soak and initial wash.  

Received below washing instructions from OA. Thanks for their support. 

As I couldn't achieve and maintain 40C during initial hot soak, so rather than "cold wash" as 2nd step, I choose "hot wash" 40C, without detergent and spin. 

After washing, put into sunlight for 4 hours and later wore today for 5 hours. 

43 minutes ago, Vulcan said:

I just got this jacket last week and haven't washed it yet so I can't say how it does with water or age quite yet. That being said, I have had TFH's type II jacket for 10 years which is made from the same Pioneer denim and it ages wonderfully. Loads of pics online if you want to see how this denim fades. Typically this will shrink a bit with a hot wash but then stretch back out to the original size in areas that get stretched - just like jeans. Washing will create some nice crinkles in the fabric on the collar and waistband which creates some really nice character.

I love the fit on these, it's a slim fitting type III that tapers from the shoulders to a pretty slim waist. The sleeves are also nice and slim which gives it a more modern feel. The body is a little bit longer than the Type II and hits just below the belt which makes it great to wear with an untucked shirt underneath. I wear these TTS - I'm 5'8", 155lbs and wear a sz 40.

 

Some sample pics of it fitting me. Forgive the wrinkled shirt, I untucked it for the photo...

Nicely fit on your body

 

Anybody owns this Jacket "THE FLAT HEAD DENIM JACKET - 60S TYPE III", one wash

How is the experience? fit ?

whether shrunk with hot wash ?

or become slightly loose with wear?

Anyone interested in Samurai 15OZ Type II Denim Jacket?

Mint condition, washed 2 or 3 times in short cycles, maybe total usage is around 60-90 hours only.

Tag Size 42

Chest 55

Shoulder 48

Sleeve 63

Overall Length 66

Width at 4th button 52 

Hem 48.5 

the picture taken yesterday , while wearing the jacket 

DM me if interested 

On 9/30/2022 at 5:13 PM, julian-wolf said:

1003 doesn’t usually come with ‘50s details (as far as I know??), but it should be the closest to that sort of fit

whether Warehouse 1001xx (the flagship) model is based on1947 cut or it based on other year model?

Also, "Warehouse & Co. Duck Digger Lot. 1001XX 13.5oz Jean" has the same cut like 1001xx? or it has some features from 1001XX but cut is different? 

By Dick Digger, I understood that it has addition of arcuate only 

On 4/16/2018 at 1:47 AM, MasonAlexander said:

My Flat Head 7001.

Ive had this shirt for about a year and a half or so, and wore it pretty often for the first year or so, but then I grew to really dislike “western” shirt details on shirts, so it mostly sat in my closet for 6 months with only the occasionally wear. While unpacking after a move this last week I pulled it out and realised “hey! This thing is gorgeous!”.  I honestly did not realise that it had faded and evolved even this much, but im very pleased with wear it is right now

 

(Did my very best to make all of the colors and contrast in these photos, and it is pretty true with the exception of a few of the photos that were too bright and I couldnt manage to fix)

this Flat Head shirt is no doubt produces excellent results

On 11/2/2021 at 4:15 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

One of the aspects of Full Count denim that I particularly like and isn’t often mentioned, is the vertical falling. This is often remarked upon as a feature of other brands such as Flat Head & Eternal and left hand twills but seems to be overlooked with Full Count. The combination of this with their soft denim is an absolute winner in my book.

Indeed, people have different brands but if they have used Fullcount, they try "not to take them off" , and keeping other stuff in the closet

On 1/12/2022 at 11:57 PM, cheapmuthafukr said:

Today… 12 years old

12 years old gold

My new purchase of Tanner Goods Standard Belt, Natural color, size 34, stainless steel and Key Laynard, Natural color, stainless steel

Denim Work Shirt by Warehouse , model # 3076, 2 year old, multiple washes

Denim Pair, Fullcount 1108, 3 years old multiple washes 

On 12/23/2019 at 8:15 PM, dada mafiosi said:

Tanner Goods, 

Natural, Classic Belt, Brushed Steel Buckle , Size 34

Size 34 means, from the end where leather is folded around the buckle to the first hole 34" + 4" (space between first to fifth hole) + 4.5" (from the last hole to end tip) , making overall 42.5" in new state.

After use the expected stretch is 1 to 1.25", so the belt will become 43.5" to 43.75" overall, so I will be able to put pin into center hole. (perfect sizing)

Wearing with my Warehouse 800NW (jeans usage 1.5 months) 

 

Tanner Goods, Classic Belt, size 34, Natural Stainless Steel, after 20 months approximately. 

Wearing with my FC1108 jeans (3 years old) and Timberland Yellow Boots

Jeans: Fullcount FC1108, (3 years)

Shirt: Polo Ralph Lauren (poplin shirt)

Belt: Tanner Goods Classic Belt (2 years)

Boots: Timberland Yellow Boots 

FC1108 is certainly the most comfortable jeans pair available in premium Japanese Selvedge denim marketplace , in addition to sufficient vintage denim features, fading potential, beautiful stitching and sewing threads color used. Another small detail is impressive inseam stitching / needlecraft added by contrast of yellowish green color thread.....     

Jeans: FC1108, (3 years)

Shirt: Polo Ralph Lauren (poplin shirt)

Belt: Tanner Goods Classic Belt (2 years)

Boots: Timberland Yellow Boots 

FC1108 is certainly the most comfortable jeans pair available in premium Japanese Selvedge denim marketplace , in addition to sufficient vintage denim features, fading potential, beautiful stitching and sewing threads color used. Another small detail is impressive inseam stitching / needlecraft added by contrast of yellowish green color thread..... 

21 hours ago, JohnnyUtah247 said:

Hey peeps. I’m looking for a pair of 800xx’s for my next project and looking for some guidance. Located in the US so would purchase from either Self Edge or Standard and Strange. I was wondering why there was such a price difference. (50$ more at self edge) As far as I can tell, the Self Edge pair just has a longer Inseam but are exactly the same besides that. Is there something I’m missing here? 
 
The sizing is also kind of all over the place. I’m typically a 34 in Roys and iron hearts, and a 36 in ooe’s and flatheads. According to some measurements I find the 36 in 800xx would be fine, but if I go by Self Edge’s measurements I would need possibly a 38, or a 40, which seems crazy. Anyone have any size comparisons to other brands? 

 Cheers. 

Hi Johny

My pair of Warehouse 800xx size 34 was 88cm waist (using flat method) in non wash state. Warehouse 800xx in one-wash is usually 83cm and become 88cm after use, so consider if your waist if 88cm , you can wear it comfortably. Unfortunately , my waist is 89cm so sometimes when there is a pressure on tummy, I have to unbutton beneath my belt for better comfort.   

Rather than comparing size number with other brands, I prefer to check non-wash waist measurement if available. For one-wash (if non-wash option not available), I prefer to check post-stretch estimate from the shop I am buying, typically 4 to 6 cm post stretch possible depending on the denim such as Fullcount may stretch 6 cm easily but Warehouse may reach to maximum 5cm.

I hope one day 88cm will stretch one more cm (say 89cm) if Warehouse denim allows stretching beyond non wash state after extensive use. 

Warehouse 800XX NW pair in size 34 (10 plus washes in 2 years)

Warehouse 3076 workshirt (size 40)(10 plus washes in 1.5 years)

Tanner Goods Classic Natural Leather Belt with stainless steel buckle (size 34)(age 1.5 years)

Timberland 6" City Premium Boots featuring side zip 

Warehouse 800XX NW pair in size 34 (10 plus washes in 2 years)

Warehouse 3076 workshirt (size 40)(10 plus washes in 1.5 years)

Tanner Goods Classic Natural Leather Belt with stainless steel buckle (size 34)(age 1.5 years)

Timberland 6" City Premium Boots featuring side zip