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TIMDOT

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Posts posted by TIMDOT

  1. On 4/19/2018 at 6:16 PM, GFNS said:

    Alrighty folks, the first customs item is in and I've been slapped with a 30% duties tax on the S21-DS.  Time to pull up the tariff codes and broke boi the SDF folks for a refund.

    SDF?

    Spoiler

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  2. 5 hours ago, Kasper said:

    I think the issue is that I don't think the market can bear those prices over the long-term. Maintaining this kind of brand desirability over the medium / long-term is extremely hard and you can only manage it by insuring you maintain a large number of brand supporters. I think the issue with the recent price hikes is that no one in their right mind can pay 1,200 EUR for pants so pieces tend to be bought more and more by rich assholes with fuck-you money who are buying it cause it's the cool thing of the moment and aren't likely to stay invested in the brand long-term. . 

    I think this is going to have an impact of the image of the brand. Up until about 1-2 years ago, whenever I saw someone in ACR (which didn't happen often), they always seemed to dressed so well and be people I could hang out with, but nowadays, it seems ACR has become one of key element of the princeling fucbois uniform along with Off-White and Vetements and I cringe most of the time I see people wearing it (I also live in fucbois central so they are very visible). These people have no taste and are only buying what's cool to show off and as they move on from streetwear, I am not sure you will see a new generation emerge willing to buy ACR. As a result, the coolness factor of the brand has gone down quite a bit for me and there are alternatives.

    For me personally I think an unseen consequence of the price rises is Acronym isolating what it makes sense to wear their things with. Some wear it with brands vaguely on the same hype level like off whack, a cold piss and shitimints. Some wear it with brands that cost similar. But it's rare to see it with bits on the same design level, no matter how obscure, not just buying into the 'look'.
    This as well as the customer base's preference for statement pieces. I don't want to recognize people wearing Acronym. I don't want people to recognize me wearing Acronym.

    This drop:

    Spoiler

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    https://www.instagram.com/p/BhoydcdHQ6X/?hl=en&taken-by=aitor_throup

    Spoiler

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  3. On 9/21/2017 at 11:34 AM, TEKsevenZERO said:

    They are indeed a very small company with a very large rep, amazing really, you can see why Nike wanted Mr H on board and THAT name associated with their product but folk have to remember that there are two divisions, one being the design agency the other the clothing brand.

    I blame Nike for the sudden silly levels of demented demand, kind of a symbiot that works in acrnms favour but not the consumer.

     

    I agree. I take back what I said about a month ago saying they were small-to-medium. That was from the perspective of two of my favourite English brands where most of the work is done by 2 people, incidentally both husband and wife teams. 

    It's no wonder the levels things are at when every drop is on hypebeast.

  4. On 9/7/2017 at 10:50 PM, iamundying said:

    i've been wearing the p10-s religiously over the past year or so and wanted to say how useful a small thing such as the phone pocket is.

    i normally carry a small notebook in my right hand pocket and the phone pocket allows the phone to be placed elsewhere,

    thus freeing up space and allowing easier access to my notebook. 

    i first thought the phone pocket is just a neat gimmick, but i've grown to appreciate its subtle value. 

    Toraichi workwear trousers have a similar detail. I don't like guessing the origin/inspiration behind things though.

    Spoiler

     

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  5. %90+ of my stuff is bought online. When shopping in stores the worst realization you can have is that the working culture/conditions in these places are not good and the service directly suffers because of it. It becomes a chore after this. When I first started going into boutiques and stores maybe it was because I was less cynical back then but the staff at certain places seemed to have more of a laugh and that made it a better experience.
    I just don't have the more objective view on the items in real life than on pictures online. Which is weird because it's the opposite with me and art.

    I always thought; what if someone did what is more common in Japan and had a niche shop tucked away in some gully ends that was south of the river in London (none of that East London muck) would it be successful? And then I realized the store Alpha Shadows, which carries good stuff, is in Peckham not in Shoreditch. Like there Japanese counterparts they have a good online presence. Can you imagine a city like London where curation is more important than location?

    11 hours ago, nodre said:

    something about labor laws has forced them to indefinitely cut boutiques out of the seasonal cycle. 

    Do labour laws change that drastically?

    ACR is medium sized with a large sized reach. Tricky. I partly agree with WillKhitie in dialing it back a bit. Imagine if the collaboration with United Arrows hadn't ended so soon and this delaying opening things up with Nike.

  6. It is, i'm pedantic. Also, I don't like things being leaked not in spoilers.

    17 hours ago, piece keeper said:

    I prefer those older hoods outside the collar as opposed to Fast Hood on J32, etc. because when it's wet you can't stow the hood unless you want that water on your neck. 

    The hood is the hardest thing to design in a unique way. The fast hood is a great design but hoods on the outside are more comfortable

  7. Exsqueeze me for getting political. My gott, the world as it appears, get in my fucking head.

    Spoiler

     

    23 hours ago, TIMDOT said:

    From Errolson's twitter:

    This is the level of pessimism within anti-racism movements. Ideas like this disregard class analysis and therefore don't look at racism from an anti-capitalist viewpoint.

    What's the point if it's inherent and there's no self-realization through activism. What did all dead anti-racist activists fight for? With this reasoning a hypothetical statement to the person that died yesterday in Charlottesville would be "Sorry. White supremacy prevails."

    Capitalism created and sustains racism. The ruling class materially benefits from divisions between the majority. Workers in the US in a less racially diverse workplace are paid less on average. The working class, does not materially benefit from racism.

    What are ways to interpret the act of change in society on an individual and societal level? 
    1.The individual changes through the struggle of changing society 
    2.Educate the individual to change society (racism is dynamic and insidious, a new persecuted minority every decade, making this a slower process)(this is all forms of mysticism) 
    3.Deny change in individuals = deny change to society.
    1 smashes the status quo. 2 and 3 reinforce it. 1 has impetus, 2 doesn't, 3 negates it. A conception of privilege theory, which prioritizes WS over a class analysis of racism (edit: not the ideology of WS), is 2 and 3.

    When white supremacy is the prism you look at things through how do you differentiate between racists and fascists? And more importantly how do you change things?

     

     

  8. From Errolson's twitter:

    This is the level of pessimism within anti-racism movements. Ideas like this disregard class analysis and therefore don't look at racism from an anti-capitalist viewpoint.

    What's the point if it's inherent and there's no self-realization through activism. What did all dead anti-racist activists fight for? With this reasoning a hypothetical statement to the person that died yesterday in Charlottesville would be "Sorry. White supremacy prevails."

  9. Got my pair today. I'm a UK 10 in nike, I have never had a pair of nike's in a size 10 that don't fit well. I went down to a 9.5 UK for these. The tightening system sits low around the ankle so to compensate they need slight over-tightening. With this they do fit well.

    Go down a full size IMO.

    Edit: UK 10 = 10 UK

  10. ^ Goretex > Stotz

    _

    18 hours ago, konrvadsk said:

    The only other piece I own is the J1A-GT, so the breathable mesh top pocket design was a nice surprise for me on this (as I don't know the ins and outs of every piece).

    Didn't realize it had this. I can see it now looking at shop pics. It's something I thought the J1A-GT should have had but I imagine Gore doesn't like mixing of their materials and straight up doesn't allow mixing with non Gore materials. The extra cuff tightening and the riding up from the bag alters the way it looks, I reckon it does fit.

    _

    I'm turning this into a 'what I thought of this seasons drop'. I bought a J61 so I'm inclined to say it's the highlight but the J47R is da real MVP. The innovation in the construction is unlike anything else.

    Functionally, I wish the J61's zip didn't catch on the flap. I wonder what the reasoning is behind only having one parka style button up at the neck because I think it needs another one in the chest area to make it less cape-like in the wind. I have wanted a jacket in that kind of silhouette for ages and was waiting to catch a Veilance monitor in the sales, I'm very happy with my purchase. When Shadow Project or Nike have done parkas there's less hype. I think the light material and packable feature has just pushed it over the edge into archetype-shifting territory.

  11. 58 minutes ago, CARLOOA said:

    Thank you for this. I know you're not searching for meaning in design but it seems Errolson is very vocal on twitter as to his politics and I find it hard to disassociate his politics from his work. To draw on another parallel, I feel like Acronym attempts to appropriate miltiaria in the same way protest movements did. I think, without more, it fails to do this. He seems very adamant about anti-interventionism, tolerance, the protection of intellectual property, any a myriad of other, for a lack of better term, popular progressive stances. Cultivating the dystopian aesthetic is weird considering political idealism espoused, right?

    Anyway, regarding the design. I like this season, I always like parkas and the J61 is like a future mod coat—J61/M51? I tweeted at Errolson once and he said that the J56 wasn't really influenced by anything but the Crye Field Shirt; I wonder if the J61 is heavily influenced or not. I don't really like the sarouel pants because they're too similar to other CDG or Rick stuff but I appreciate the different fabric choices. I really want to put a knife on the left side of the J1TS and my pistol on the ride side and go to the range to get weird looks.

    I don't think appropriation is the right idea. Lately, I've been thinking a lot about what streetwear is. I think that it is in the references being abstracted into the designers sincere individual expression. Because culture is dynamic this is a contradiction born not from the need for endless expression but the endless need for profit.

    How do you hold back this contradiction? Move with the reference, become self-referential, change the reference.

    When luxury brands reference it's inherently insincere. I don't think Vetement's irony is sincere. A COLD WALL's reference is a concept.

    I'm not sure if its good enough to say streetwear is just "sweatshirts n tees". Acronym is streetwear but much more than the sum of even it's non obvious references.

    I feel like the agitation from individuals that half contradict their current social position, that is, the boss of a company first and a creative second is that they recognize that capitalism stifles individual expression. I assume the lack of real world activism is because of twitters tendency to be a individualist echo chamber where you are blind to the need for actual collective expression to have any chance of change.

  12. I have the same type of jacket with a similar hexagonal, but less severe, camo. It's a good jacket. I've begun to start wearing it again.

    It has a hydrophobic finish but that version doesn't have taped seams. The one's with the chest pockets have an added waterproof liner.

  13. So will that be everything released till SS?

     

    Was hoping for something akin to the LA6 zip shirt...

    That list may be what's available to stores stocking it. Who knows, acrnm.com may have bags and bag accessories for sale?

  14. I'm getting a white mountaineering vibe from their mix of materials, colours and the pocket layouts.

    But the first thing I thought when I saw the logo was it was very similar to a Z with a dash. After a quick google the nazi wolfsangel symbol was where I remembered it from. I think they need a re-design.

    Where are they based? 

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