mpukas
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Posts posted by mpukas
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I'm honored to say I'm the soon-to-be proud owner of these resoled Chippewas. So excited to see them in person! They look amazing - thank you, Brian, for the truly amazing work you do.
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Here's a vid of Redwing showing in depth how their boots are made in their factory. At 8:15 they show the sole making process. They call gemming a "ply rib" (to me it looks like some sort of plastic material), and can bee seen being glued to the insole. A bit later you can see the welt being stitched to the ply rib, and cork being spread in the void.
I had always assumed, in welted shoes, that there has to be a strong connection between the upper and lower/sole. I assumed the welt was somehow stitched to the insole. And I've heard countless times how the cork filler is such a good material as it provides some insulation and molds to your foot over time. I've always been skeptical of that... after this gemming thing has finally set into my brain, I feel like all of my shoes and boots are going to instantaneously implode into dust.
It makes me now realize, as Hoggy said earlier, that all of these shoe companies are pretty much the same. The differences come down to the quality of leather and other materials they use, the standards of the company and skills of the workers, and level of quality control.
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Here's a clicky to another forum; pay attention mainly to what DWFII has to say. The rest are mostly as ignorant as us lot.
The first article I linked on Keikari.com has a quote f/ DWFII in it, and it appears this forum post is where it was taken from unless written elsewhere identically.
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Ask and ye shall receive; search and ye shall find;
http://www.keikari.com/english/shoe-gemming-construction/ - says pretty much the same as you, Hoggy.
So, what about the beloved high-er end North American brands - White's, Nick's, WestCo, Viberg? What about Toys McCoy, Lofgren, Buco, Mister Freedom? Are they using gemming? Our Boy, Brian the Bootmaker of Role Club, does not use gemming.
Is it safe to assume that unless a maker specifically say "hand welted", then they are using gemming?
This has been an eye opening and informative discussion. One of the best threads on the 'net.
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... Goodyear refers ONLY to the strip gemming inside the shoe...
What is strip gemming?
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...
Anyway, here are some shots (pre-soak, most of) for anyone interested in the s510OG (not a lot I think
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Susumu - thanks for posting these pics. They are great! Just great!!!
I love the 510 fit.
I have the S510 25oz 15th, and I adore them. However, I got a size too large (34), and I've lost a bit of weight (20lbs) this past year since getting them, and they are way big on me. I should really post some updated fit pics... Oh, how I wish I had gotten the proper size in them, or even sized down one. I think a 32 would fit me just fine at my current weight/size.
What I really like about the 510 is the proportion of the waist band to the hip & thigh size. Usually on almost all jeans, the waist is too big for me when the hip and thighs are right. With the 510 I get a good fit at the waist with no gapping at the back, and still plenty comfy and good range of motion in the hips and thighs without looking dumpy. Well, they look a bit dumpy on the currently skinny me... lol
I'm trying to clear out some old stuff and hunting for a new pair of jawns, that have something a little extra special. I wasn't aware of the S510OG16ozAK until now - these are now towards the top of my list. Rather spendy tho... I prefer slightly heavier denim too. My only gripe w/ Sam's is their use of cotton thread... some of the stitching on my S510 25oz has started fraying around the front pockets after only a few months of wear.
BTW - what does "AK" stand for? (BF - do you know?) Cheers! mpp
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Iron Heart IHSH-13 Size-XXL, BLUE
Not worn more than 6-8 times. Washed, dried & ironed, no shrink left. No signs of wear & tear, like new condition. Measurements on request.
$195 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS, PP F&F. International adds actual shipping costs.
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Iron Heart IHSH-13 Size-XXL, BLACK
Not worn more than 6-8 times. Washed, dried & ironed, no shrink left. No signs of wear & tear, like new condition. Measurements on request.
$195 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS, PP F&F. International adds actual shipping costs.
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Iron Heart 634S-18, size 34
New, unworn, unhemmed. Washed once. Patch treated with Obenauf's leather oil. Awesome vintage denim, these are a size too big for me. I'd love to replace them with a size 33, or SE IH-633S-18 size 34. Open to trades.
$300$275 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS, PP F&F. International is + actual shipping costs.measurements are after wash, not worn. There's probably no shrink left, and the waist and hips will stretch with wear, relevant to amount of stress, at least up to an inch.
waist laid flat (not IH style): 16.75"
front rise: 11.0"
back rise: 15.0"
thigh @ crotch: 12.75"
thigh @ 2": 12.0"
knee @ 14": 9.125"
hem: 8.625"
inseam: 35.25"
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The Strike Gold 2103 Classic Straight , size 34. 17oz indigo denim, mud dyed weft. Vintage style straight cut. Bought as one-wash. Washed once more and worn 1/2 day. After owning other TSG cuts, I'd say this cut is more suited for western builds, and runs true to tagged size for a straight cut. The waist will probably stretch up an inch more with wear. I think I still have the original tags, too.
$200$175 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS, PP F&F. International is + actual shipping costs.waist laid flat: 17.0"
waist front and back matched: 17.5"
front rise: 11.25"
back rise: 14.75"
thigh @ crotch: 12.375"
thigh @ 2": 11.625"
knee @ 14": 9.625"
hem: 9.0"
inseam: 36.5"
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They haven't lightened up yet, and it's been about two weeks +/-. I put a heavy coat on...
When they were new, I gave them a light coat of Hubard's. It made them dark, like the pics above, but then after a few days they lightened back to the original color.
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Re: my earlier inquiry about Chippewa v Red Wing v Wolverine, I have some new thoughts...
I purchased a pair of Chippewa 1901 6" Service Boot in Crazy Horse. I was curious. Once received, I'm on the fence. They are a very nice looking, very simple clean boots. Medium weight, mid-duty. The Vibram Texon sole (or whatever it is) is crap. The full 360 Goodyear welt is done very well and solid. All stitching is clean and neat.
The leather, however, is rather unimpressive. It's a bit thin. Not exactly cheap feeling/looking, but not a very high quality leather. Maybe on the Black Odessa or Cordovan (color only) it's a better leather. I recently also bought a pair of Chip 1901 engineer boots in Cordovan (at Brian getting a re-sole), and that leather seems much higher quality. Not sure if that same leather is used on the 1901 Service boot. If it is, it's a better option than the Crazy Horse.
The leather on the RWIR is much, much nicer. It's thicker, looks better, looks like it's tanned better. RW has the advantage of having their own tannery, using the best hides for themselves and selling of lesser quality to other boot makers (prolly like Chippewa).
I do like the 1901 6" service boot, but not sure I like them enough to keep them. May be returning. May go for the RWIR in wide and get a resole at RW factory...
Besides RW leather being better, I think both are comparable re: quality of construction.
just looking for a simple pair of every day boots that aren't so rugged and heavy as my White's. But I don't think anything will ever be as comfortable.
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Some random ramblings...
Red Wings now does the Iron Ranger in EE width. YAY! I'd consider these and have RW resole them with the leather sole-stacked leather heel-commando half sole they use on the Beckman Chelsea. J. Crew jumped on that already, but I don't like their color, and they don't offer it in wide. NOT a fan of J. Crew anything... just because...
I was in Boulder, CO end of last week, and stopped in the local RW store. There was a semi-crusty semi-retired senior gentleman working the store part-time. I asked to try on some IR. When I took off my White's, he looked at them as exclaimed "WHAT ON EARTH ARE THOSE???!!!".
Anyway, nice guy, helpful, he measured my foot. No one has ever measured my foot on a Brannock properly. I discovered my length is 9 (always new that) but the arch and ball of my foot are a 10 (long, high arch, short toes). E width (knew that). I've always had problems getting shoes to fit right. He fit me in a 10 Beckman, and they looked like clown shoes to me. Too big. 9 in IR was way too small, way too narrow. 9.5 IR was a decent fit, but narrow. I suspect 9.5 EE would be ideal.
The Man said w/ RW boots it's more important to have the ball of your foot where the boot breaks, and not worry if the length is too long. There should also be about 1 inch or less between the upper quarters when laced; if it's more then they are too small.
I had a pair of Beckman Black Cherry Featherstone in a 8.5 some years ago, and they were way too small in width and upper cuff. Most uncomfortable boots I've ever had. Sold them. Wish I had the proper size, as I do like the looks.
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@Hogggreaser, that Danner Ocont boot is great looking indeed.
I've never been a fan of Danner; had a pair of work botos when I was in my late teens and did a lot of construction work in cold weather. They were really well made boots, but I HATED the blocky heel design they use then and now sometimes. Made it so difficult to walk in, and that extra big heel hanging off the back got hung up often. Some of their newer models show promise, like this Williams.
I don't get why so many great American boot makers make special lines for Japan and Europe, but don't offer them on their own home turf. Much of what they offer for their own kin is ugly as sin. Do they think Americans don't like their best looking boots and shoes? What really cracks me up about this is they all tout the "Proudly made in America" badge of honor, yet they ship their best products over seas.
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LL Bean's current Katahdin Iron Works Plain Engineer Boot, plain toe is described as having a classic Munson last. But from what little I know, these certainly don't like like their built on a Munson.
As one reviewer put it, these are basically the Chippewa 1901 6" service boot, but some skimping to drop the price. Regardless I think these are a great looking boot.
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What about these jobs?
(can't copy pic link to post)
http://www.wwiiimpressions.com/newusarmyrusset.html
or these - 1904 Marching Shoe?
(again can't copy pic link)
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Any goodyear welted boot is cutting corners. It's the very nature of the process.
Why do you say that?
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Fella's, while I've got your ears... what's the general opinion about the quality of three major mid-range North American shoe makers - Chippewa (Originals), Redwing (Heritage), and Wolverine (1000 Mile) (yes I know there are many others too). Not really interested in their work boot lines... What I see most written is Chippewa is at the bottom, and Redwing and Wolverine tend to be regarded as better boots. There are certain aspects of all three that appeal to me, and certain aspects that don't. I don't like RW's toe buldge; I don't like RW's and Chip's synthetic soles. I really like the look of Chip's 1901 service boot. I think Chip tends to cut some corners and use cheaper leathers; and some lines are made in China, but those don't count. There are just not enough things about the 1000 Mile boots that ever got me interested enough to get a pair.
Synthetic soles, IMO, are the first place a boot maker is going to cut costs. A material like Texon on the Chip's is much less expensive than full leather with a rubber outsole. Getting a pair of their boots properly resoled is more expensive than the actual cost of the boot itself (Brian is currently resoling a pair for me now - can't wait!!!)
Love to hear some thoughts, and insights as to how they're made, leathers, over quality, etc. Thanks fella's. mpp
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@Hoggy
What do you think about the Redwing Munson Ranger 8012? Looks like Redwing did a run for Yurp, and they're all over Rakuten.
I wasn't aware of the Munson last until I read you talking about it so much. Now I'm intrigued. My foot isn't blocky, and only wide at the 6th toe area, but I generally like wide sized shoes. I'm very much a proponent of shoes that let my feet do what they need to do naturally, without constriction. My training shoes are Inov-8 and Strike Movement, both based on bare foot shoe principals.
The 8012 interests me because it's still a work boot, but the Munson last lets the feet move naturally. Not really a fan of the toe buldge on RW's tho... Thanks for the never ending eye-opening info. Cheers! mpp
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@Cucoo, I was planning on posting these boots a while ago, but was lazy. Since you said you looking for western boots, you gave me the inspiration to do so.
The GF and I were in Austin, TX (Broak's current home-town) at the end of October for the F1 Grand Prix a The Circuit of the Americas track (F'g great time, 3rd year in a row, and already looking forward to next year). Cruzing around shops on South Congress, I stumbled into a shop called Texas National Outfitters. Really Western/Cowboy stuff, most of which doesn't appeal to me... but then I spied these beauties!
Rios of Mercedes Buffalo Runner cowboy boots. Designed by the owner of the shop, all hand built by Rios, in Mercedes, TX. Beautiful boots, clean and understated. Fit was superb, but they didn't have my size, otherwise I would own a pair. NOTE: They run small. My foot measures an 8 1/2E, and I usually wear a size 9D or 8.5EE. I couldn't get my foot into a 9 in the Buffalo Runner; a 10.5 was a nice fit, comfy without being roomy, and just the right amount of heel slip. The only problem I had was they were pretty long. I really wanted to try on a 10, but they only had limited sizes.
http://t-n-o.co/products/buffalo-runner-premium-cowboy-boots-rios-of-mercedes
You can watch a tour of the factory and see how they're boots are made. Truly all hand made. All denim nerds will appreciate what goes into these boots. Every time I look at these boots I drool and wish I had bought a pair on the spot... next year! (or maybe mail order... ;-) )
(part 3 didn't load... follow clicky)
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They're by Sendra, handmade in Spain...
Looking good Cucoo! I have a pair of Sendra cowboy boots that I picked up a few years ago, and love them. They are one of the boots that all others I look at are judged against. Your harness boots certainly are very unique and well executed.
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I need some sizing advice on a Flat Head shirt 7001. Having a hard time finding sizing charts.
I'm generally a US size L in most shirts. Levi's Slim Fit is an XL (but those shorts are really strangely sized). I'm an XL in IH shirts, and they're a bit tight across the chest.
I'm thinking 44. Maybe? Cheers! mpp
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Shoes that look better with age...
in superdenim
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Hogg - those Church's you posted are FINE.
Yet another boot I wasn't aware that I now must have. You're a really bad influence on me LOL!