peter1

I love my slim 50s one-wash but the dye transfer is...prodigious. I'm a little afraid to put them in my own machine as the downstream waterways might turn indigo. Going to be a long time before I can wear a light colored shirt. I sat in a damp spot at my daughter's swim meet a few weeks ago and there was a puddle of blue dye on the bench.

It's a really dark indigo, too. Still vacillating between waiting as long as possible to machine wash or starting the fade process now...

^^Yes, very interesting. To my untrained eye you can see why Levi's have been considered the gold standard for quality. The Foremost look to be underengineered, especially around the back pockets and the lack of a chainstitched waistband. 

I have two heavyweight chambrays, one from Battenwear that is basically a 6 oz denim in weight. Maybe not that much but it's burly. The other is from EG Workaday (underrated and fairly priced, especially compared to EG mainline).

My favorite workshirt is a bit of an oddball: It's a USN repro from August 8.15, with patch flap chest pockets, internal taped seams and USN anchor buttons. It's lightweight and comfortable as hell. They don't make it any more but it's a good brand, just don't pay retail...https://shop.augustfifteenth.com/collections/mens-shirts/products/classic-engineer-work-shirt-br-premium-chambray

23 hours ago, mpukas said:

I just took delivery of one in espresso yesterday. Ordered it in October, and used the 20% first time buyer discount, so with shipping it was $706. I've been eyeing the jacket for a couple of years, since TS introduced it. I have 0 f's to give about stories and nostalgia, but I did like the back story behind this jacket. I liked the basic design of it. It looked great in pics, especially the father's original jacket. I've wanted a good leather jacket for a long time. I've always had a leather jacket of some sort, but previously didn't know better and have had shite. I knew this wouldn't be something on the level of FW, FCL, TFH, etc., but I thought it would be a good quality jacket for the price, maybe on par with Aero, Simmons Bilt, etc. I'm not in a position for a FW, FWL, TFH, etc. right now, as tempting as it is... 

However I'm not very impressed with it. The fit is spot on for me - 5'11, 195, 42-44" chest, and I got a size 44. The basic design is good, and mostly what I was looking for in a moto jacket with a  collar that doesn't scream moto. I couple of small details I'd alter if I could. The leather is just meh to me. It's thick, but very soft and doesn't feel durable. No pull up, not heavily oiled, not shrunken to dense the grain. For a moto jacket, I expected a heavy, stiff, dense, tough leather that would withstand abuse. This reminds me of cheap leather jackets I've had in the past that have ripped when a dog jumped on me, etc. It's supposedly 3.5oz chrome-tanned full grain steerhide. The lining is poly/cotton, stiff but not in a good way, kinda strange. It has a cheap, scratchy feel and sound of synthetic fabrics. This feels like a jacket made for desk jockeys (which I am) that want to run around in the woods cosplaying on small vintage dirt bikes on the weekends (which I don't) while being comfortable and moving freely, and stroll into the local craft brewery in the revitalized, formerly industrial part of town (gentrified) for a flight of this months offerings made from grain grown on a local bio-dynamic farm. 

Overall it's good jacket for $700. What really gets me a little hot under the collar is TS retail of $1,075. No f'g way is this jacket worth that when compared to other offerings. FFS, you can get an Aero or Simmons Bilt horsehide for $1,100-$1,200 with a wool lining. I don't think I'm gonna keep it. I'll sit on it for a couple of days, but initial impression is I'd rather either not have a leather jacket for now, or spend another $500-600 +/- for an Aero HH with a wool lining. 

I won't disagree with your assessment. That's why I said it's a decent deal at $700. $1075 is nuts but I'm sure a bunch of Bay Area tech bros would pay that without flinching.

The whiskey color fills a need for me, which is a somewhat unusual but versatile (i.e. not black or brown) color that goes with biz-cash clothes that I have to wear 5 days a week...and it has a bi-swing back which is a must have for me and double zipper. It's definitely more of a safe dad-style than some of the Japanese specialists, for sure.

3 hours ago, SLAB said:

doubt you know it; it's the market square of Sint-Niklaas 

No, but I often find myself in Brussels-Antwerp-Ghent area for business. The square has a very Flandrian feel to it.

^^What city is that? Liege? It looks familiar but I just can't place it...

6 hours ago, dudewuttheheck said:

Golden Bear is not bad. That price though is just too much for what you get IMO. Aero is not much more as is Thedi Leathers and for the same price as the Taylor Stitch, Schott is  better as is Vanson. In fact, Vanson can get you something better for less money.

I think it depends on what you pay. I was able to get the TS model for $700 plus shipping, but would I pay the $1075 list price? Probably not unless I really wanted a navy or whiskey colored jacket. 

TS has the advantage of free shipping, I think. Regarding the fit, it's very TTS. I.E. I'm 5'11, 160 lbs, 39-40 chest and a M is perfect all around, with room to layer a flannel shirt underneath.

1 hour ago, mpukas said:

um... pls be nice... or not... any opinions about Taylor Stitch's Moto jacket made by Golden Bear? 

I have it in whiskey. Great cut, quite warm. I paid just over 700 for it with first time buyers discount. TBH it’s not quite on par with Aero or even the best Schotts, let alone the top end jackets, nor should it be for the price. But it definitely holds its own in the price range,and it’s offered in some interesting colors. 

^^I always find it interesting when celebrities are fans of niche-y brands. (Wesco isn't a niche for those who don't wear them in a fashion context, of course) 

David Sedaris is a huge Kapital and 45 rpm fan. I get the impression he's spent hundreds of thousands of dollars on those labels. 

20 hours ago, mlwdp said:

All of those patches are military.  Jolly Rogers is US Navy aviation.  They’re still active.

https://www.public.navy.mil/airfor/vfa103/Pages/default.aspx

 

Ah, thanks for the knowledge. I was looking at the back of the jacket in a google image search. So, yeah, I agree -- active military patches are kind of a no-go zone. My friends who served are rightfully protective of their units and branches. Especially the Marines.

Having said that, obviously anyone can wear what they want, and there's a certain satisfying subversion in wearing military gear, for example as a protest or playing with the martial style. 

I have always wanted a pair of Avoriazes but I cannot make the sizing work for me. (have tried them on several times in a vain hope that it would) There is an incredible amount of volume in the toe/instep area, so if you have high volume feet they might work. The other Paraboot boots aren't all that interesting to be honest. What I would really love but can't quite afford are Heschung Gingkos when it comes to french boots.

^^Nah, those are hot rod club patches. 

I wouldn't wear anything that says Army/Navy/Air Force/Marines tho. That's just asking for trouble, especially Marines...

An ultra-slim 50s's denim isn't really what I had in mind, either. But if it sells, as noted above, more the better. I guess I've been living in a cave but I thought tight jeans weren't popular anymore and all the cool kids were wearing dad jeans.

The article was quite good and debunks a few myths about raw denim. Doesn't talk about initial soaking, though -- I'm a believer in a hot soak to get extra dye out in the tub rather than on your white oxford shirts and tan suede boots...

22 minutes ago, vIGGiou riou said:

but at Denimio you can ask for actual measurements of the exact pair you would order .....

This is where I had a problem. They didn't send me the measurements for my particular pair of slim 50s. but you can be sure when I paid 28 euros in return shipping that I made them do so! My fault partly by not insisting.

It's one of the reasons that so many people are turned off by raw/artisanal denim. For me it's part of the fun except when I screw up.

57 minutes ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

Sugar Cane.

Pants Shop Ave and Self Edge carry raw versions. One wash easily available on Rakuten.

Thanks, that's a definite possibility. SE shipping to Yurrup might be prohibitive. Though I like the "modified" version with slightly longer length.

2 minutes ago, BionicEye said:

Why not tcb?

No special reason other than that I have a couple pairs of TCB jeans so looking for variety. The LCV Type 2 was on sale in Europe for 210 euros but not in my size (M). 

Who makes an authentic, relatively affordable (and available in Europe or via mail) Type 2 besides TCB? It's on my target list for this year, but don't really want to pay more than 250 euros and hopefully less? TIA...could always go used, of course.

Been meaning to post this. Just a data point on the one-wash varieties. My first TCBs were slim 50s in black, raw. I went TTS (32), and did only a warm soak, got a little bit of shrinkage but the waist stretched back to raw size (around 34.5"), which is fine but I wanted a little closer fit in the waist and top block. So I picked up a pair of one-wash in indigo in 31, which were way too tight. I returned them for 33, which fit just fine and are actually smaller in the waist than the 32s that started out as raw.

So...I don't know what washing process TCB uses but be aware that it appears to be pretty aggressive, much more so than I would normally do unless I was going for maximum shrinkage...

Also, I got them from Denimio at a ridiculously cheap price, 129 euros. That's not much more than a pair of standard off the rack 501s cost in Europe. 

8 hours ago, tigerstrom said:

Seems like tcb is releasing a new cut with 50s fabric. Saw it on Ryo Instagram, no pictures yet tho.

I didn't see that on his Insta -- can you link? 

I'd be down for a new cut. I like the slim 50s, just wish the rise was a smidge higher. Maybe we'll see a mid- to high rise taper, that seems to be fasionable now. Not that I'd wear it after memories of Levis 550 cut back in the 90s...or maybe a Resolute style Ivy jean? 

^^Which is precisely why I like forums, even if they aren't as popular as they once were. I'm older and move slower...

Regarding APCs, I wear petit standards, true to size, as my "nice" denim. They look great under a sports coat or with an oxford shirt. The only drawback for me are slightly too short inseams, and lack of chainstitch, though you could argue that not having roping makes them more formal. I'd like to find a gently used APC denim jacket -- think there are some out there that dont have much wear at a good price...

^^Interesting. Are you going to let it fade naturally or wash as often as you might a "regular" shirt?

Also: Those retail prices 

5 hours ago, jewellben said:

do these stretch out at the waist?

My first pair was black and raw, and yes, the waist stretched back after an initial hot soak or two to the raw size. I've washed them in 30 deg a few times, hang dried, and while I've lost a bit in the length (maybe 1 inch?) the waist remains at original measurement (maybe 34" for a size 32, which is a bit larger than I'd like). So I'm trying one wash and sizing down to a 31 (supposedly 33 inches). However, I think the black denim might have different characteristics than the indigo. I referenced a bit of "springiness" above -- it's never been particularly stiff, and almost feels like it has a tiny bit of stretch built in. Very comfortable all in all. 

Plumped for another pair of slim 50s in the Demimio sale. 129 euros shipped is a really good price. Instead of raw and size down 1 from natural waist I sized down 2 and went one wash as I need something a little tidier for office wear. We shall see. First pair was black and with wear after washing they have returned to raw dimensions. I'm hoping the indigo has the same characteristics as I like the slight springiness of the black denim, but would like a closer fit in the top block to eliminate diaper butt...

Was very temped by blouson/ranch jackets but I think I'm going to hold out for a gently used LVC Type II. Gotta have that red tag.... 

19 hours ago, lance said:

Hey guys, my philosophy is a little different. Using sterling silver rather than base metal for something I carry or use daily adds a little elegance to utility. Different strokes….

I agree. I'm a big fan of the Master-Piece key clips. Current one is red, adds a bit of "Office Space" flair, if you know what I mean. It's long enough to tuck into back pocket or even front pocket depending on where the belt loops are. https://caliroots.fr/master-piece-equipment-key-holder-01691-be/p/73998?size=TAILLEUNIQUE&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiZPvBRDZARIsAORkq7e04XPgZfWwhMplJyzUkoRybIMhq5CWRLR8MH2CTRR6akq-po0XhAMaAqAwEALw_wcB

My original impetus for exterior key rings was not to lose track of where my keys are. I know, practical, huh? I walk out the door, pat my hip for keys, pat rear pocket for wallet, front pocket for phone, then I'm good to go. If I put the keys anywhere else I'm toast...as for what I have on the ring: very small combination lock (for luggage/computer bag; I travel a lot for work); key to apartment, bike lock, small mailbox key and office key. No car! 

Honestly if my style was more western/Harley-Davidson/rocker I'd have my wallet on a chain, too, for the same reasons. I've lost 2 wallets with EVERYTHING in them and it was such a PITA to get cards reissued etc.