mikecch

^ Fair enough, and the ethics of what we buy is certainly important. Like you said, there is no guarantee of ethical treatment of workers even if the country of origin is a first world nation...we in Australia are very often guilty of exploiting and underpaying migrants, especially in the foods & services industries.

With that in mind, nowadays I really don't care about the country of origin of my garments, but rather I'd like to known by whom they've been made.

For example, take the Chinese brand Sauce Zhan - the owner employs his own workers, treats them fairly, and even works on the floor himself. The materials he uses have been co-developed by him. Now in this instance there shouldn't be any problems with the jeans being made in China.

^ Ah, there is a controversial point. To an Australian, like me, a garment being made in the USA doesn't add any value in my mind - I have not found 'made in USA' to be any better quality for most items compared with the rest of the world. 

Made In Japan, however... I'd pay extra for that. 

^ Yeah, Ant has the repair workshop called Anthill. I put up some photos earlier in this thread. 

Well, 5 years ago, none of the people on the panel were in the denim business in Melbourne. We could have had a small denimhead gathering, yes, but nothing that would receive recognition from ACMI or VAMFF. Certainly nothing that would have enough reach to influence the mainstream at all. That's only my opinion though... 

Pretty awesome night for Melbourne's denimheads!

Hosted by James Nolen of ACMI. Featuring (left to right): James, Marty from Godspeed, Nick from Denham Jeansmaker, Chris from Pickings & Parry and Ant from Anthill Workshop.

Left to right: Marty, Nick, James, Ant and Chris.

Denim banners, Nick's awesome collection of Buddy Lee dolls, Marty's very nicely worn Japanese denim collection and some Denham jeans and items.

It was interesting to hear about how these guys got started on their denim journey, all of them coming from different backgrounds as far as denim and men's clothing go.

Marty's very nicely faded Iron Heart jeans from around 10 years ago.

Very happy to be able to attend such an event and see such a great gathering - this would have been impossible in Australia even just 5 years ago.

Ant's fantastic work on a denim jacket!

Some of Ant's vintage sewing machines - you'd have seen better photos of these elsewhere on my indigoshrimp blog.

Great discussion points, thanks for creating this thread. 

One thing that pops into my mind is how easily we (outside of Japan) can buy Japanese jeans nowadays compared to the very early days of this forum. 

At the moment I'm finding Okayama Denim and Denimio to be very easy and 'cheap' purchase options with vast selections, but I also enjoy popping into my local stores. I'm finding the premium in Australia to be between 20 to 60% compared with Japan, which is still OK most of the time. Though on larger purchases like high end boots or leather jackets, I tend to stick with ordering online. 

My Charles Atlas jeans review is up!

https://indigoshrimp.wordpress.com/2017/03/11/left-field-nyc-xinjiang-cotton-denim-charles-atlas-jeans-review/

Otherwise, here are select photos:

^ Gold is best, if by best you mean most expensive and hand-made.

Japan Blue and Okayama Denim just released another collab, 'Snow Slub'. I'm skipping this one for the time being, but keen to see some photos if anyone has bought a pair.

Hey folks, sorry for the lack of update. Been waiting for the natural CXL horse to become available but still no luck after 4 months.

Well, this was bound to happen and I'm surprised the international 'standardization' didn't happen earlier.

For many of the niche brands, having all the retailers that sell to the international market agree on a fixed price seems to be the way forward. 

Hey, any Melbourne denim heads going to Weaving Shibusa at ACMI? 

The last screening on 11th March is followed by a panel discussion in the evening - guys like Marty from Godspeed and Ant from Anthill Workshop will be speaking. 

Stevenson Overall Co. tube socks in mustard:

More of the Coupens from RDT:

Update~ Faler Leathers custom bilfold with natural veg tanned leather from Wickett & Craig, Mill Handmade cardwallet with Horween #8 shell cordovan.

2 hours ago, Max Power said:

Thanks, but they're too wild and huge for me. I am looking for something like this Kawatako wallet - just found it sold out so far.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/vari/item/kt-01m-to-oil/

If you like the curvy Japanese billfolds, have a look at Pickles Craft.

1 hour ago, Max Power said:

Every year or so I think about replacing my wallet. I'd like to get a well made japanese wallet, but always struggle to find a Piece that fits all my criteria:

- room for about 6 Cards and my ID (would be sufficient if the Card Slots Held two Cards at once)

- coin pocket

- should not be taller than 5" so it sits well in the backpocket

 

Does anybody have a recommendation?

Ready for purchase? Check out the Japanese brands and craftsman that the Kawakichi webshop stocks.

I've been following a few Japanese craftsmen on IG, such as Samurai Craft, Zero One, sixteen leather, and Daisuke Uchimura...you should get on IG and have a look.

If it doesn't have to be Japanese, then former SuFu members such Scott Willis, Ray Lansburg, John Faler, etc can do very nice custom pieces, and there's no shortage of photos in the leather threads of their work!

^ Agreed, I might also add the newer classic dress and classic work configuration are good options too. 

Even a double midsole version of these lighter boots are rather hefty. 

Well, that's a line across Dayton for boots to try in the future... 

10 hours ago, Niro said:

What jeans are those Mikkech?

Thanks for the feedback re: Wolverine guys.

b_F is right, these are Left Field's new Xinjiang cotton 14.5 oz twisted yarn jeans.

Different from Red Cloud and Sauce Zhan fabrics I've tried...there's probably at least a couple of mills in China making Xinjiang cotton denim at the moment.

I know the above two Chinese brands get a lot of proprietary stuff they co-develop with the mills.

What's the opinion re: Wolverine nowadays?

I know when they first launched the 1000 Mile boots folks here thought they were just so-so.

Anyone tried the custom 1000 Mile program yet?

Classic dress boots by White's Boots via Baker's.

461 last with medallion toe cap.

5 years, though worn roughly once every week or so to the hospital.

Voyej Chahin belt, review up on the blog!

https://indigoshrimp.wordpress.com/2017/02/16/voyej-chahin-iv-belt-review/

My Charles Atlas in 14.5 oz Xinjiang cotton denim arrived! 

Hey friends ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ

Chup!

^ Cool texture and colour mate, love it!

Hello from the southern hemisphere!

Gran Manitou sacrebleu T / Tanuki retro denim jeans / Tricker's espresso calf Stow