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black.shadow

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Posts posted by black.shadow


  1. That is too short IMO, it should reach almost near the crotch. On mine, the buttons would space out a bit more, the lapels and neckline would dip down further and more aggressively, and I like a bit of stand in the collar, in case you need to pop the back up.

    The buttons are positioned too high but the spacing is a good 3" if moved down i believe the jacket would immediately look better. The lapels also aren't that great I agree with your styling suggestions. What do you think about making one that is a bit longer like you propose and one that is shorter than the one pictured (like cropped style in particular the Dior Homme one with the zippers at the end of the sleaves)?


  2. longshot but does anyone know anything about getting these altered. I picked up a really nice perfecto out thrifting, but the sleeves are super loose and large whereas the rest of the body fits nicely. Does anyone know of anyone that can alter these, possibly take in the sleeves.

    i have had two leather jackets altered. it's a gigantic task. even some leather "tailors" are absolutely clueless as to what needs to be done to make the jackets fit properly. others just plain don't want the hassle or the possibility that they might damage their machine.

    also some refuse to alter leather jackets if they have a liner. again too much hassle.

    some words of advice. have the measurements ready the exact second you step foot into the place. a great idea would be to leave a tailored shirt and tell them to match the arm measurements.

    you will likely only have one shot with the tailor, because they will likely just be plain too overwhelmed by such a project to even attempt doing it again.

    good luck.


  3. i got a measurement spec sheet from schott, and the 613/618 are pretty frickin tight.

    a 32 measures 15.6" in the shoulders and 18" in the chest, which is smaller than my tshirts, so i dont think sizing down is required.

    i am a bit envious of the asian market though, they get a 613US, which is pretty much identical except it has higher, tighter armholes. if i could get a hold of that my life would be great

    why not go the custom route listed on there site?

    http://www.schottnyc.com/customsizing.cfm?style=613

    spec your jacket to your exact measurements. and include your armhole height and tightness in the modifications request.

    Tighter and higher armholes imo is not the main problem anyway with production leather jackets. But is something repeated on this board ad nauseum every single time someone mentions wanting a tight jacket. The real problem is that the upper arm and lower arm part of the sleeve is not small enough in width/circumference.

    Think of it this way. Take a shirt that you own which is not tight fitting, put it on and pin or pinch tight the part that is just off the shoulder and is the beginning of the bicep. Now look at how tight the arms are now. This was not a modification of the armhole at all but really making the sleeve smaller in circumference.

    Will higher and tighter armholes help? Sure, but not if the sleeve width/ circumference is not tight enough.

    btw i had the arms lengthened by 1" and sleeve width taken in at least 1.5" on the jacket that I purchased from you. Heaps better. and at least 85% of the way to looking as tight as possible. I'm now having at least another inch taken off the upper arm part to finish streamlining the jacket. The torso is still waaay too short to describe as a 34 but that would be nearly impossible to fix without major alterations. That Balmain Homme Fall jacket posted by geekbonchic looks like a proper 34 torso length.


  4. If you want something with great fit (better than MTM) go to a bespoke shirt maker in your city. You'll probably spend around 200 dollars or thereabouts on your first shirt, but it will be of the best fit, and the tailor will be able to give you advice regarding the collar/shoulders etc to best fit your physique. THEN you can send the shirt to jantzen in hong kong, they'll copy the shirt and you can get bespoke shirts made at over half the price they would normally cost. They also have many different options that you can choose, so check it out

    most people do not have a bespoke shirt maker in their city or state even for that matter. you do not need to spend $200+ for a nice fitting shirt. also sending this bespoke shirt to hong kong to be copied is a bad idea because it could be lost in the mail or by jantzen themselves. not to mention jantzen is notorious for their wait time.

    imo take any dress shirt that fits moderately decent than have that tailored to near perfection for around $40 easy. or do it yourself for free using this youtube guide as a good starting point.


  5. measurement?

    I laid the jacket down flat and these are the measurements that i took:

    pit to pit laid flat is 16.5"

    waist laid flat 16"

    wrist width flat is 4.75"

    outside sleeve length from shoulder is 21"

    collar to bottom is 25"

    this jacket is very small. please let me know if you need more measurements.

    thanks


  6. ^

    1. looks just okay but im not really feeling it. i bet that this will be bulkier fitting than the pic appears.

    2. probably the best fit of all posted. however, the buttons should be changed to bigger navy anchor buttons imo.

    3&4. these fit awfully. do not buy.


  7. I'm going to sell my vintage US Navy Peacoat soon.

    I'm not sure when it's from exactly. I think it's from the 50's. Definitely post WWII.

    Looks like this one

    http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-USN-NAVY-PEA-COAT-WW2-WWII-JACKET-NAVAL-US-40s_W0QQitemZ110297344376QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110297344376&_trkparms=72%3A1205|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

    It's made of Kersey wool, not melton wool like today's issues, so it's warmer.

    I'll sell it for $75 shipped. Let me know if you're interested and I'll take pics.

    correct link for auction?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-USN-NAVY-PEA-COAT-WW2-WWII-JACKET-NAVAL-US-40s_W0QQitemZ110297732076QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110297732076&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14


  8. the question is more, what are these shoes the guy in the middle is wearing? Plimsoll-like white contrast stripe, but on a heeled high-top. Me likes.

    that is likely not white but merely a golssy reflection (the left shoe does not have any white at all on the sole area). the style of these types of boots are called "chelsea boots".


  9. ugh ugh ugh the waist in my jawns are a tad to big. joey overdrive 1955 - shrink or no shrink? oh and fuck the search function.

    they will shrink a bit in the dryer. however, the waist will just stretch out again after wearing them. your only hope is to return or sell those and buy new smaller ones.


  10. new question,

    is slimming the sleeves out on a blazer a difficult job?

    i just got a blazer that fits alright, but the sleeves are too full.

    i believe what you are referring to is having the sleeves taken in. taking out would be making them bigger not slim (just so you know what to ask for). taking in sleeves is not a difficult job for any "experienced" tailor. have them go all the way to the underarm when pinning the fit for you.


  11. Yes, and no. I've been wearing a Cooper surplus-store pea for about 10 years and the quality is great. Better than any mall brand (JCrew, BR, H&M). The wool, although thick as night, is lighter than the pea my dad bought in the '60s (you can't bend your arms) and it's nowhere near as nice as the real-deal navy shit from the '40s and '50s. It's also 100 percent work wear. It's cut big (sizing down, as I did, will result in short sleaves), it's rough, real-deal. Great with some Red Wings and beat-to-shit jeans. However, if you're rocking some 19cm and $100 haircut it will look wrong. Best go for an "inspired-by" version from a favorite designer. You won't be happy with some navy reject.

    i have worn various surplus store peacoats since elementary school. i had a few different ones and my size 30 that i have does not fit quite as snugly when compared to my newer size 32 (they are different labels/makers but bought from the same store). neither of them look like a navy reject. there are probably at least 20 different manufacturers that make "military spec" peacoats. so just because your ten year old peacoat does not fit that well does not mean that all army/navy bought peacoats fit exactly the same. i will stick by my recommendation that the best fitting peacoat can most easily be bought at an army navy store. i am by no means being rude, these are just my opinions after trying on and searching through countless amounts of peacoats

    any random s,m,l,xl coat will for the most part absolutely not have the tight fit that i require. i believe that part of this is due to many labels sell with s,m,l,xl. so you have 4 choices for fit as compared to sizes 30-50 from military coats which would likely have a greater chance to fit best. also sleeves can be lengthened in almost all jackets by a good 1 and 1/4" at least in my experience and i have had this done for $10 to $15.


  12. perfect trench coats do not have belts because they fit well enough.

    whilst i place that outrageous comment on the table, i'm going to agree with ken shinoda.

    also, mmm's.

    this seems like a joke but, im going to strongly disagree with the above statement. this would mean that burberry, viktor & rolf, etc. and every other trench coat with a belt fits poorly.

    imo trench coats without belts look too much like lighter versions of peacoats and seem to lack form to an extent (appear a bit like long boxes).

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