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enojy

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Posts posted by enojy

  1. On 7/20/2019 at 10:59 AM, mpukas said:

    @chambo2008 My first thoughts are similar - how are you washing your jeans? If they are not completely thoroughly clean from a wash and/ or not rinsed properly there could some residual substance causing the mustiness. Soap can get turn funky. I highly doubt there's any sort if contamination in your storage area otherwise you'd have a much broader issue than just jeans 

    I usually just machine wash and machine rinse these days. Even still, that sometimes doesn't get all of the soap out, and I'm back at the tub rinsing them a few times. Tends to pool up at joined points (fly, coin pocket, etc.) Could be the castile soap I use, could be hard water, I dunno! I just rinse til the soap is all out.

  2. On 7/17/2019 at 10:49 AM, Pedro said:

    Does the Samurai 20-oz denim shrink more than other brands?

    I saw a used pair on Grailed tagged 38W that hand measured 34-3/4”W.

    Gorgeous fading. 

    I wouldn't assume so, but at some point, Samurai started (randomly/per lot?) sewing their cuts with a raw waist measurement that matches the size e.g. that size 38 may have been 38" before shrinking, instead of shrinking to 38".

  3. Had fun reading through the last 8 years (well, really just about 20 pages, but 8 years sounds cooler) of this thread last night. Finding a pair of 5010XX 6X6 for sale on clearance last year literally got me back into denim full-swing. Thank you Skull, thank you Analchemist, thank you Ppoduced by Fabfour.

    I only wore them for a few months, though, because I started going denim crazy again, buying new pairs. They've been hanging out ever since.

    Tried them on last night and just love the fit... above the knee. These are indeed "slim straight." My first pair back in 2007 or 2008 was 2 sizes smaller, so there wasn't any bagginess going on down the calf/leg opening (but alas, I am now in my 30's and have no business sizing down anymore.)

    Debating just storing them for good as a keepsake of my first Japanese denim, or coughing up some good cash to have them hemmed and tapered from the inseam...

  4. On 4/25/2019 at 2:02 AM, tdj said:

    Just bought a pair of NSXT "SEN" 16.5oz Stretch Selvedge - Extreme Tapered Fit from Blue Owl.  Loving the taper (it's pretty intense - if it was any skinnier, I wouldn't be able to get my feet through).  Loving the hairiness.  The slub is moderate - not the slubbiest of denims, but not uniform, either.  I will say, however, that these things are not "easy" to fade.  Normally I start seeing some pocket fades by the first week (e.g. Samurai, Momotaro, IH), but these just won't bleed blue!  I guess the one-wash really got the indigo to adhere well.  Anyone else experiencing this?

    I've been wearing a pair of Tanuki's red cast jeans for just a little over a year now. I bought mine raw, but crocking/blue hands was always pretty minimal -- I wouldn't call them fast faders.

  5. 2 hours ago, bencap said:

    Here's a question about creasing for you guys: Will the sharp creases from jeans being stored go away with wear?

    I just busted out the Samurai S710NBK one wash that I had in storage for a few months, and there are some sharp creases from being folded up for so long. I've never had a problem with this before, because I've always bought raw in the past, so creases went away after the initial soak or wash. Since these are one-wash, I wasn't planning on doing a soak or wash, but I'm worried that the creases running down the side of the legs will be fade and end up super visible.

    Any of you guys run into this problem before? Will the creases relax with time? I have a feeling they won't, and should maybe do a soak to prevent that (even though I'd rather not)

     

    You can gently iron stuff like that out, just be sure to separate the denim from the iron with a cloth. 

    As for them going away with wear, it depends on just how sharp the creases are. If they're more like "bends" then you're probably fine. If they're more akin to pleated pants, you might want to nip that in the bud. I've got a retired pair that picked up some creases when I had a denim blunder moment putting them through the dryer to presoak them with a bit too much gusto... those creases never went away.

     

    IMG_0385.jpg

  6. How'd you go about shrinking them? If it was in a bathtub or something similar, did you be sure to use hot water and agitate a lot? Only 1" of shrinkage in the waist sounds unusual. I've always been able to get a good 2" or so out of my jeans, although I've never had this particular denim.

  7. On 1/4/2019 at 1:47 PM, mpukas said:

    I'm hesitant to post this, as I know it's bad form around here to talk negatively... but, I have to get this off my chest... the YouTuber Stridewise is a complete jackass who has no idea what he's talking about. He's the epitome of a fashion trend tail-coater that jabbers out his back-side just to try make an easy buck through his channel. There, rant over. Thanks, and let's resume civil conversation. :P

    Why so? Genuinely curious -- I'm quite new to boots (so I can't be very objective) but I find his videos to be very good, at the very least for the leather eye candy. Was it perhaps the video where he said Vibergs are overpriced that got your goat? :biggrin:

  8. On 8/13/2018 at 2:32 PM, mlwdp said:

    The horsehair brushes and shoe shine rags are by Kiwi.  

    IMG_3756.JPG

    IMG_3758.JPG

    I quit using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on my leather, especially my boots. It works great in terms of protection/waterproofing, but eventually gives way to a flat, dull look -- lots of darkening, and no room for depth or character. 

    Unless of course your use case demands that kind of hardcore protection, then by all means, keep using it! Otherwise, the Saphir Renovateur is a great substitute.

  9. On 5/28/2018 at 8:29 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

    Same here. ~$400 USD for what...? If there's something that merits the price beyond the normal 710XX (besides the heavy weight, but still,) they didn't do a very good job presenting it. Being limited to 100 pairs and Nogami-san's signature (as legendary as that dude is) doesn't warrant such a premium.

    Hell, the super thick pink arcuates and all-yellow stitching make it even worse...

  10. On 5/21/2018 at 5:08 PM, dada mafiosi said:

    Hi

    Guys, anybody has experience on both PBJ XX-003 and PBJ XX-005.

    - I used to wear Levi's 501 but not sure that XX-003 might be of the similar cut or more loose?

    - Whether XX-003 model creates similar fades like XX-005?

    - I see XX-005 is considered as the best PBJ model but not sure whether it will be a bit loose than tight/slim jeans or tight, any comments?

     

    XX-005 is the epitome of a Japanese slim straight fit. Slim top block, medium-to-low rise, slim thigh, and no taper whatsoever from the knee down. 

    XX-003 is a relaxed, slightly tapered cut. Bigger everything than the XX-005, but with a gentle taper from the knee down. 

    XX-005 would be a closer analog to the modern day 501, but only if you've got a slender frame. Top block and rise is much slimmer. XX-003 doesn't really compare that well. Look into repro brands like Warehouse, Fullcount, Studio D'Artisan etc. for possible closer matches to the 501 cut. 

  11. On 5/11/2018 at 9:34 AM, bod said:

    Look good but the pic looks like someone got a bit enthusiastic with the saturation slider

    I thought the same! I didn't edit it, though, that's just how the phone chose the lighting (background is bathroom tile reflecting LED lights.) The color/fading of the denim is very accurate.

  12. Crosspost from The Flat Head thread:

     

    My roommate's Balders after a wash (The Flat Head's ladies' line.) These are about 10 years old, but couldn't say how long they were worn or how many washes. Maybe 2-3 years of effective wear. Pretty sure these use the 3000-series denim. As someone who has yet to own a pair of TFH, I'm jealous! All that vertical fading almost gives them a natural indigo impression.

     

    4UU3mLa.jpg

     

    dIh5lS0.jpg

  13. On 5/7/2018 at 7:02 AM, i_denim said:

    I had no idea.

    In fact, my pair of PBJ does not mention 'PBJ' anywhere. It's just 'Syoaiya' everywhere. I wonder if the brand got it wrong. PBJ should ideally have been the global brand and Syoaiya could have been domestic brand in Japan. 

    I don't know all the details, but Pure Blue Japan (as we know it) is branded as Syoaiya these days. They are one and the same. Something about another brand/company securing the trademark for "Pure Blue Japan" before PBJ did, so they were no longer allowed to use the name.

  14. My roommate's Balders after a wash (The Flat Head's ladies' line.) These are about 10 years old, but couldn't say how long they were worn or how many washes. Maybe 2-3 years of effective wear. Pretty sure these use the 3000-series denim. As someone who has yet to own a pair of TFH, I'm jealous! All that vertical fading almost gives them a natural indigo impression.

     

    4UU3mLa.jpg

     

    dIh5lS0.jpg

  15. 17 hours ago, Henkka said:

    My type II jacket just arrived from denimio, in about two weeks from ordering through customs to Finland, so I think it was rather fast. The jacket is amazing and fits just as I wanted it to fit, will be perfect after adjusting the measurements by washing. Huge thanks to everyone who helped me with sizing, it is only a shame that I didn't purchase this jacket 2 years ago! Wuold you guys have any tips to washing? Straight to the washer/bathtub or week or so of wear before washing?

    I just bought the same. Here are my results from an hour warm/hot soak in the tub with a few minutes of agitation and a hang dry. Sorry, it's size 40, but probably gives you a good idea! On one hand, I feel like it is probably only about 75% shrunk. On the other, it's already smaller than a 40" chest! It measured about that while raw... Just cold washes from now on...

    IMO, I'd at least hot soak it before putting any wear into it. The difference in numbers are small for the most part, but overall, the jacket did shrink a considerable amount compared to how it fit beforehand.

    • Before / After:
    • Chest: 20.1" / 19.6"
    • Shoulder (front, seam to seam): 18" / 17.7"
    • Shoulder (rear): 18.7" / 18"
    • Front length: 24" / 23.6"
    • Rear length: 29.2" / 28.5"
    • Sleeve (measured from top of shoulder seam): 27" / 26.4"
    • Elbow: 6.5" / 6.4"
    • Wrist: 5" / 4.9"

    Edit: just measured the chest again for fun, to see where things were at after about a week of wear. I've stretched it out to 21"! Of course, this is buttoned and flattened, beyond the long "V-shape" seams down the sides of the jacket. I've been making an effort to stretch out the chest area of the jacket, as it's the only part that fit me a little too slim for my tastes (kinda pulls at the button/pleats.)

  16. On 4/3/2018 at 2:45 PM, a salaam alaikum said:

    I've been away from here and the denim community for a long time. Also just been really happy with my couple pairs of Samurai and a few other brands.

    Recently I started looking at buying another pair of Samurais and saw Blue in Green doesn't carry them anymore. What happened?

    Denimio wasn't as big (or maybe didn't exist) last time I bought jeans. Did they price BIG out of the market?

    Hey there fellow relapser! Dunno why Blue in Green stopped selling Samurai. Also dunno if Denimio's prices had anything to do with it, but probably not -- they just sell at or around the Japanese domestic market MSRP. Other Japanese shops like 2nd and Bears have been doing the same (and shipping worldwide) for as long as Blue in Green have been around. Denimio is good, though. I've ordered from them a couple of times now with fast shipping and no issues.

  17. On 4/7/2018 at 10:46 PM, mlwdp said:

    https://hypebeast.com/2018/4/levis-sues-kenzo

    Can Levi's really sue for this broad infringement because there's a couple brands even on this board that use a tab?

    Absolutely, but mainly in the US. I think the three things Levi's is super stringent about are the red tab on the back pocket, the arcuate design, and the "two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans" artwork on the patch. A whole grip of Japanese brands were emulating these three things to varying degrees -- some just flat out copying it entirely stopping just short of printing "LEVI'S" on the red tab -- but Levi's started taking action around the time many of these brands gained worldwide prominence. Most of these brands just made minor changes for the Japanese domestic market, mostly to the arcuates. For example, The Flat Head's arcuate design used to be extremely similar to Levi's, and could easily become just that if the consumer opted to remove a couple of threads with a seam ripper.

    For exports, e.g. shipments to stores like Self-Edge and Blue In Green, there were more actions taken to lessen the resemblance to Levi's, such as removal of the red tab, more significant alteration to the arcuates (or entire removal,) and workarounds in the patch to avoid it being two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans.

  18. On 3/30/2018 at 4:18 AM, McCol said:

     

    TCB50SJKT TCB 50'S JAKET / DENIM JKT TYPE 2ND

    Size 42, Non-Wash

    My measurements:

    IMG_6731.thumb.jpg.23e5c7bcacd52cede5e362f467d87736.jpgIMG_6729.thumb.jpg.b8f51a3bfb08a21ddcd86bee0249dafe.jpgIMG_6732.thumb.jpg.055823e17d8a79d175b335428d0f0905.jpg

    IMG_6734.jpg

    Thanks for the detailed measurements! I was about to shit myself until I read that you had already hot soaked the jacket-- I just ordered a 40 the other night and if these were raw measurements, then I'd be in a little trouble. 

    Really looking forward to receiving it. I'm getting back into denim after quite the hiatus, and I've grown to love the story of TCB, even if I don't mess with most of their aesthetic. Also being an owner/lover of two cats has proven to be insanely influential. 

  19. 13 hours ago, gfarina55 said:

    Here's a pair of barely-used s510 24oz, lot 12-1003. Any guesses how old these might be? Too big for me and I'd trade for something a bit slimmer w/a 16-17" waist and 33+ inseam. 

    Tag: 34w
    Waist: 16.5, 17" with waistband aligned
    Front Rise: 11"
    Back rise: 15"
    Thigh: 12.5 from bartack, 13" IH style
    Knee: 9.5"
    Hem: 9"
    Inseam: Hemmed to 33"

    IMG_2044.jpg

    You can date Samurai by lot number; they're on lot 20 now for their 20th anniversary, so probably about 7 or 8 years old.

  20. On 3/13/2018 at 5:23 AM, nizzel55 said:

    PBJ607918OZ 209 days of wear.

    180205_PBJ6079_4_d209_021.jpg

    180205_PBJ6079_4_d209_029.jpg

     

    Shit... I've been pining for a denim jacket lately, and didn't even consider PBJ making one. That looks so great in their denim. 

  21. Go to Kohl's, bring a tape measure, try on every pair of Levi's that you think you may like. Measure the pair(s) that fit you best. Take note of the rise, and how the hem fits over your shoes. Stick to those measurements when buying raw denim, err on the side of slightly smaller for sanforized to account for them stretching out some (maybe .5" smaller waist.) Buy slightly larger in unsanforized denim to account for shrinkage.

     

    edit: ignore the Levi's tag size, go by only the measurements you take. Visit any denim shop's website for a guide on how to properly measure. 

  22. On 3/14/2018 at 3:37 PM, zwer said:

    After getting my 180z PBJs back from the repair shop for the 4th time, only to find a hole in the left pocket bag, it's got me to wondering - is the quality argument that we all make really true?

    I've had my x13s since last December and probably have between 5-6 months of wear days on them. My first repair came after 3 months in. The crotch was reinforced, but it puts extra stress on the edges of the repair fabric and that's where new holes develop.

    DOn't get me wrong - I'm not complaining. I love the jeans. I've loved them since trying them on and I love them now that they're kind of beat. But are they of high quality? That I'm not so sure of.

    Didn't want to put this in the PBJ thread because I don't want to turn people off the brand (I've had similar/worse experiences with Iron Heart 18oz and 25oz).

    The one pair of PBJ I owned wore out kinda quick in the crotch, but to be fair, I did bike in them regularly (to and from university, nothing too strenuous.) The first pair of jeans I actually wore out in the crotch. I blame the low tension weave PBJ is known for. I just don't feel like they're purpose-built to handle heavy wear.

  23. On 3/10/2018 at 10:55 PM, i_denim said:

    Several threads coming out of a brand new pair of FH 3012. Is this a good sign or bad? It could be a sign of good craftsmanship or shoddy quality control, don't know enough about Raw denim to interpret this.

     

    1 - 1.jpg

    3 - 1.jpg

    2 - 1.jpg

    Personally, I'd contact the place you bought them from to ask about an exchange, based on the crotch irregularity alone. If anything, ask their opinion. The one on the leg is fine, as is the button hole. I mean shit, if you get into those jeans enough, the button hole will probably need some fixing down the line anyway.

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