dasman989

What does the term "Broken twill" mean ?

Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave, instead alternating right and left with the end effect resembling a random zig-zag pattern. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic of regular twill (and considered a ‘fault’ by many at the time, a fault that Levi’s capitalized on a few years back with the launch of its Engineered Jeans™). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced.

there's a thread on leg twist around here somwhere that might also help.

i stole that from here http://www.thememagazine.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=116&Itemid=115

which i just found. don't agree w/ everything on there but the broken twill information is acurate as far as i can tell. But yeah it prevents leg twist..

i'll be up to NYC the weekend of march 2nd if anyone wants to meet up.

i was wandering around the local shit mall and the gap there had heaps of blue line selvage raw denim. Don't know the name of the cut though.....

Imperial, Kicking Mule Workshop, Samurai, Pure Blue Japan, Oni, and others make black raw selvedge denim. Samurai may be hard to come by because of the law suits, same for Oni and it doesn't look like BiG ever stocked them (someone posted a link to Hinoya). Imperials are available at context and self edge, denim bar probably has kicking mule in black (and offers 20% for style forum members). BiG will probably still sell you the PBJs. There's Dior also

i don't think KMW is doing black. correct me if i'm wrong

chanel sunglasses

Anti-Good Silken Cashmere hoody

nudie conny

KMW - 1950 awa

airforce 1

shuttle loom 36 inch max width

here http://www.harrisville.com/html/36_4.html

and yes you can dye just about anything. Most things are actually easier to dye than cotton. With silk or wool, more indigo will adhere during each dip so you need less dips to get the same color depth.

i have big meaty thighs for a thin guy so they may be a little baggy on someone else.... but they are a great fit for me. They are sanforized i think. But i have no idea how much shrink or stretch they have in them..... only one way to find out though...

I wanted to wait till i saw the oni's or the jomons when i go to NYC but the rarity and superfuture discount sold me on these ..... i love them though they are fucking incredible. The construcion is amazing.... felled insemeam, chainstitching around the waist band.

does anyone know how they achieve the alost sloppy looking weave pattern? It' looks all choppy up close but from a distance it's what gives them the streaky appearance.

full pics are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Dasman989/KmwAwa

^ true.

if the numbers end in "0" it is the natural indigo version

the other oki/hawaii are a natural/synth indigo blend

i think the indigo is the same. it's just the dying method that is different. i.e. rope dyed = 1, hank dyed = 0

so i picked up apair of the 1950 awa today, actaully pair no 27/50 size 29/34 they fit great but i do need to stretch them a little. With the super future discount they came out to right around 500... but they are the most delicious slubbiest jeans i have ever seen.... I'll try to get full pics up tomorrow....

omg someone needs to burn those monstrosities.

there is a reason why everyone hates evisu euro, http://item.rakuten.co.jp/americaya/ea06gmje03/

technically thats Evgenes .... not Evisu European Edition which really isn't all bad.... I have a pair of hard wash EEE that i love.

Ev genes is a bunch of minging shit that needs burning....

-KMW 1950 hank dyed limited edition no.27/50

-SC okinawa

-nudie RR Veggie indigo

"coffee will not dye cotton effectively".... it will dye wool but won't be colorfast at all on cotton.

I've heard of these but i don't know anything about them. Does anyone want to enlighten us as to quality and price?

i skiied for three days in a new pair of okinawas... but i had them on under ski pants. It helped stretch them out a little but thats about it....

i bought a conny over the summer.

some picks are here.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Dasman989/Jeans

I wouldn't haver bought if i knew aboput the iron heart.... The rider the iron heart rider jacket looks pretty good also....

Hey derelicte, I think I was at BiG when you copped these. Gordon was hemming them. They looked great when you bought them. It probably just needs a soak. IMO, tapered jeans look butt ugly and should only be on dudes that wear oxford shirts and penny loafers. I think you can only taper the inseam anyway, 'cause anything else would fuck up the selvedge.

the seledge line is actually the easiest one to alter.... It's a lot simpler to open the slevage line pull everything tighter and seal it back up than to try to do the same to a felled inseam. You end up with a thicker selvage showing at the cuff though.

before

|---|---|

after

|-------|-------|

i hope that makes sense.....

25

whats a character

full pics are here

http://picasaweb.google.com/Dasman989/Jeans

Whats the best way to resize images to post them directly to the forum rather than posting links??? I'm having issues with it....

exactly. offered are a 2, 5, and 7 year wash. measurements are taken of wear your knee touches the ground and then distressed from there and yes the hardware can also be changed to sterling silver. the fit of the jeans is not altered in any way. just so you know this process can take at least a month because they are sent to japan so Spotted HorseCraft can do the distressing.

It's amazing that they do all that but i can't don't think i'll ever buy pre distressed jeans again..... how much is the hardware upgrade on a raw/ one rinse pair?

another question of my own...can anyone explain what "slaked lime" is and why it features so extensively in the natural indigo manufacture process described in the document on BiG's website?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slaked_lime

I've seen instructions for making an indigo vat with only lime and zinc. As far as i can tell slaked lime is just another alkaline agent. I don't know why it's necesssary in addition to lye. It seemes that you would only need one or the other..... To reduce indigo to its leuco form you need 2 things. a reducing agent (thiox, sodium-hydrosulfite, zinc, bacteria etc..) and the presence of a strong alkaline.( slaked lime, soda ash, lye). I think you can mix and match or combine your methods.... I believe i read somwhere that the europeans used to soak lime stone in stale urine and then burn it for days to make the lime/urea reagents needed for the dye indusrty. I need to recheck my sources on that last bit...

increase heat you increase the rate of reaction! general chemistry! increase molecular collisions and increase the energy of activation! cellulose isn't really getting degraded is it? it's just coming off. physically. you probably know more..but add heat to anything and it's always more it seems....unless you do enzymes.

What i'm getting at is that indigo by itself does not react with water no matter what the temp is.... SO and 30 degrees C should not be a "fading threshold"

Okay so I want to get a pair of Sugar Cane 1947's and I'm having some trouble deciding on a waist size. I'm ordering through 2000db off of Rakuten so a return is not possible. I'm interested in getting the jeans raw. I measured my waist to be 33", but I like to wear my jeans abit lower, so I put on a pair of my favourite fitting jeans and ran a tape measure through the belt loops and came up with a tight 35". I don't want the jeans to be really baggy, so I thought I would order the 34" and if the waist fits well then I hot soak them for a few hours to get a slimmer fit. I've read through about 25 pages on this thread and I'm still undecided.

Any advice on a sizing is appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony

be careful with trying to wear SC's low around your waist. The way a lot of them are cut they just won't look right sagging a naturaly high rise jean.... I just got okinawas and i have to wear them high for them to look right. but they do look right. It just took some getting used to.... I'm used to low rise jeans so this is a first for me. I've tried sagging them and one tthey are too tight ... and two the just look funny. Maybe if they were broken in more and had a better drape i could pull it off but not now.... my 2 cents

i'll get some pics of my oki's up here sometime soon. Iv'e had them for 3 weeks now and they feel better every day. And it says on the label that they make girls want you and keep away vampires and rabid dogs.... i don't know about wasps though....